Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:13 AM - Re: firewall sealing (Rick Lark)
2. 05:27 AM - Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs (Carlos Trigo)
3. 05:45 AM - Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs (Patrick Pulis)
4. 07:23 AM - Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs (Kelly McMullen)
5. 07:49 AM - Re: firewall sealing (Kelly McMullen)
6. 08:17 AM - Re: firewall sealing (Werner Schneider)
7. 08:34 AM - Re: firewall sealing (DLM)
8. 09:28 AM - Re: firewall sealing (Rick Lark)
9. 10:06 AM - Re: firewall sealing (Pascal)
10. 10:23 AM - Re: firewall sealing (DLM)
11. 10:34 AM - Re: firewall sealing (DLM)
12. 10:49 AM - Re: firewall sealing (DLM)
13. 11:40 AM - Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs (Ed Kranz)
14. 04:06 PM - Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim (Dave Fritzsche (Building))
15. 04:54 PM - Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim (Rene Felker)
16. 05:29 PM - Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim (Carl Froehlich)
17. 07:10 PM - Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim (Ben Westfall)
18. 08:16 PM - Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim (Ron Mara)
19. 08:17 PM - Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim (Ron Mara)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Thx all, I am on my way to Aircraft Spruce this morning to pick up a few
things. I probably will buy a tube of Biotherm 100 which is rated to
2000 degrees. I did find a write up on the Plane Innovations web site,
www.planeinnovations.com/firewallkits.html. I will stay away from the
RVT.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: John Cox
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 1:39 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Rick, the area in question deserves the best sealant possible. RTV is
a cheap and easy solution that does NOT meet the challenge. I installed
a product Desoto Proseal CS-1900 which was a fiberous proseal type
"fire-retandant" sealant with the manufacturers endorsement of higher
temperature. When your fire annunciator system fails. When Your Fire
Suppression system fails, your only recourse is to think of Bob Hoover
and pray. Dont use RTV. Time from point of crisis awareness to
remediation is the longest period in your life. FLY the damn aircraft to
a safe landing point.
Fly the aircraft to the accident site and insure that all POBs are
safely away. From the moment of acknowledgement of a fire to the
moment of safety, your actions speak volumes on your instruction and
skill as a pilot.
I lost a friend leaving OSH a few years ago that failed to heed those
words in his Lancair Legacy 2000. Thought he could be a HERO.
"From the moment of acknowledgement to the moment of reflection on
your actions , a great pilot knows the aircraft instantly belongs to the
insurance company. Your responsibility is to your passengers, your
family and your brothers-in-arms who love flying after your memorial
service. "Dan Lloyd, I still miss you and pray I follow the wiser
choice and don't place human life on a $ savings on RTV.". CHOOSE
WISELY, FLY OFTEN, THINK ABOUT THOSE WHO WILL FOLLOW.
You guys slay me occasionally on the decision process you follow! DAMN
I AM GETTING OLD.
John #40600
On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles
recess with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp
sealant for this purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter
than pro seal?
Comments??
Thx, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 2
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| Subject: | Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the trailing
edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
Van's plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I really hate
to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit . :-)).
What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which
obviously don't melt the foam and don't corrode the aluminium skins?
Carlos
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
Just stick to the Proseal, it's tried and proven and not all that bad compar
ed with itchy fibreglass. Wait until you get to the cabin top & doors.
Warm regards
Patrick
On 25/04/2012, at 9:54 PM, "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote:
> I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the trailing
edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
> Van=99s plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I rea
lly hate to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit
J).
>
> What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which obviou
sly don=99t melt the foam and don=99t corrode the aluminium skin
s?
>
> Carlos
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
If you don't want to deal with the pint or quart containers, Van's sells
the 1/2 oz film cannister size which is all you need for the trailing
edge. Only wish they would offer it in B-2 instead of B-1/2, as the 30
min pot life gets shortened by 50% for each ten degrees over 75, a
rather common condition here in Aridzona.
On 4/25/2012 5:24 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>
> I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the
> trailing edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
>
> Vans plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I really
> hate to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit J).
>
> What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which
> obviously dont melt the foam and dont corrode the aluminium skins?
>
> Carlos
>
> *
>
>
> *
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
I fault Van's for simply calling for proseal when they clearly should be
calling for the Proseal 1900 or other suitable sealant. While proseal
may be adequate for keeping carbon monoxide from seeping through the
firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
a firewall completely. The Plane innovations or other stainless heater
control boxes both work better and restore the all stainless content on
the firewall, and come with a small tube of Biotherm. Also unfortunate
that Van's doesn't do much product improvement over time. Apparently
afraid to admit that something could be better than their original
specifications.
On 4/24/2012 10:39 PM, John Cox wrote:
> Rick,*the area in question deserves the best sealant possible*.
> John #40600
>
> On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com
> <mailto:larkrv10@gmail.com>> wrote:
>
> Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles
> recess with pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp
> sealant for this purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be
> beter than pro seal?
> **
>
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Kelly,
> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
Cheers Werner
Message 7
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| Subject: | firewall sealing |
My answer to the fire problem (hope I never need it), 10# of Halon sprayed
between the firewall and baffling and over the engine. From Stroud Fire
Safety OKC
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:34 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
I fault Van's for simply calling for proseal when they clearly should be
calling for the Proseal 1900 or other suitable sealant. While proseal may be
adequate for keeping carbon monoxide from seeping through the firewall, it
gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying aluminum heater
control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having a firewall
completely. The Plane innovations or other stainless heater control boxes
both work better and restore the all stainless content on the firewall, and
come with a small tube of Biotherm. Also unfortunate that Van's doesn't do
much product improvement over time. Apparently afraid to admit that
something could be better than their original specifications.
On 4/24/2012 10:39 PM, John Cox wrote:
Rick, the area in question deserves the best sealant possible.
John #40600
On Tue, Apr 24, 2012 at 6:47 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
Hi Guys, I see that Vans wants you to seal the F-1001K stainles recess with
pro seal..Did anyone use some other type of high temp sealant for this
purpose. Seems to me even hi temp RTV would be beter than pro seal?
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: firewall sealing |
Your hosed if there is a fire! Rivets are the least of your problem, the
issue is sealing the area around the rivets and the areas that are most
prone to "holding off" the fire and smoke with a heat sealant. We are
talking buying time here, the smoke will blind and cause all sorts of
breathing issues, hence the solid steel vents (that I know seal better than
the Vans one) but inhaling burning proseal is not something I would want to
add to the issue.
There are many rivets, there is a whole lot of fiberglass above the area,
the glass will give far sooner than the rivets ever will.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | firewall sealing |
A before and after photo; I teed it at the firewall, one sprayer was clamped
near the spider and the other was between the firewall and baffling. Be sure
and isolate engine vibrations from the sprayers by a rubber flex tube
between with hose clamps.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | firewall sealing |
If you are worried about fire, think fire suppression. Try
http://www.stroudsafety.com/FireExtinguisherSystems.html
All of that fiberglass is going to burn well with a lot of noxious fumes.
It's best to put it out. Fuel selector OFF, pull the pin and blow the
bottle.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Your hosed if there is a fire! Rivets are the least of your problem, the
issue is sealing the area around the rivets and the areas that are most
prone to "holding off" the fire and smoke with a heat sealant. We are
talking buying time here, the smoke will blind and cause all sorts of
breathing issues, hence the solid steel vents (that I know seal better than
the Vans one) but inhaling burning proseal is not something I would want to
add to the issue.
There are many rivets, there is a whole lot of fiberglass above the area,
the glass will give far sooner than the rivets ever will.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | firewall sealing |
Email check
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 10:04 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Your hosed if there is a fire! Rivets are the least of your problem, the
issue is sealing the area around the rivets and the areas that are most
prone to "holding off" the fire and smoke with a heat sealant. We are
talking buying time here, the smoke will blind and cause all sorts of
breathing issues, hence the solid steel vents (that I know seal better than
the Vans one) but inhaling burning proseal is not something I would want to
add to the issue.
There are many rivets, there is a whole lot of fiberglass above the area,
the glass will give far sooner than the rivets ever will.
-----Original Message-----
From: Rick Lark
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 9:25 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
Werner, the fact that there are aluminum rivets crossed my mind too. None
the less John Cox is right, you owe it to your pasengers and yourself to
make the firewall as good as possible. Solid rivets are still more fire
resistant than normal pro seal, and using the Biotherm 100 is a step in the
right direction.
Perhaps another look at the David McNeils under cowling fire suppresion
system is in order.
Rick
----- Original Message -----
From: "Werner Schneider" <glastar@gmx.net>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 11:14 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: firewall sealing
>
> Kelly,
>
>> firewall, it gives no fire protection. Not to mention Van's supplying
>> aluminum heater control boxes that simply defeat the benefits of having
>
> you forgot to mention, that the FW is as well riveted with alu rivets to
> the structure, so that will not help either in case of a fire.
>
> Cheers Werner
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Alternative glue for the elevators foam ribs |
I just did the elevator trailing edges, ribs, and trim tab ribs last night.
I used the "mix in the tube" 3.5oz tank sealant from Vans, and it was
just enough for all those parts. (Part number MC-236-B1/2) You can
stick the tube in a caulk gun and just shoot it onto the part and
spread it out. It took me about 30 minutes for the entire process.
Simple, and no measuring needed.
On Wed, Apr 25, 2012 at 9:22 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> If you don't want to deal with the pint or quart containers, Van's sells the
> 1/2 oz film cannister size which is all you need for the trailing edge. Only
> wish they would offer it in B-2 instead of B-1/2, as the 30 min pot life
> gets shortened by 50% for each ten degrees over 75, a rather common
> condition here in Aridzona.
>
>
> On 4/25/2012 5:24 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote:
>>
>>
>> I am building the elevators, and as you know, one has to glue the trailing
>> edge foam ribs to the elevator skins interior.
>>
>> Vans plans want you to use that ##$&&%% tank sealant, which I really hate
>> to use (probably one of the reasons I always go with the QB kit J).
>>
>> What are the alternative glues that can be used is this case, which
>> obviously dont melt the foam and dont corrode the aluminium skins?
>>
>> Carlos
>>
>> *
>>
>>
>> *
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would
be mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws
that hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the
inspection opening. The location of the three attachment points on the
module make that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the
rib with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's
seem to find a position that would make both the connecting face and the
screws on the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before
the bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the
trim servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are
attached to the wings and possibly the wings are attached to the
airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Message 15
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| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
I mounted my Gretz control module to the inspection plate. Easy and
accessible.
I did my Aileron trim after the wing was on the airplane....but I think you
could do it after the bottom skin was on but before you put the wing on the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 5:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
--> <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib
with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to
find a position that would make both the connecting face and the screws on
the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before the
bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to the
wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Message 16
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| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
You can of course fit up the aileron trim servo mount onto the inboard left
wing inspection plate. You cannot fit the aileron trim spring attachments
to the aileron push tube until after the wings are on and the control
surfaces are rigged. The aileron push tube needs to first be correct,
"stick centered" position to determine where to put the spring attachments.
Remember that the push tube is easily removed via the wing tip once you mark
where the attachments go.
Carl
Pitot static test completed today - trying to get the FSDO out the first
week in May.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Rene Felker
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 7:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
I mounted my Gretz control module to the inspection plate. Easy and
accessible.
I did my Aileron trim after the wing was on the airplane....but I think you
could do it after the bottom skin was on but before you put the wing on the
airplane.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 5:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
--> <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib
with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to
find a position that would make both the connecting face and the screws on
the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before the
bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to the
wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Message 17
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| Subject: | Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
I thought it would be easier to install the gretz using molex connectors for
the wires so I mounted the assembly just inside of the wing rib inside the
inspection plate. I split the wires leading from the pitot to the control
unit and added appropriately sized molex connector. The thought being that
installing the pitot is just a matter of snapping the molex connector tight
instead of trying to work those little screws while upside down.
Not flying yet so as to effectiveness and reliability.... WAG.
Ben Westfall
40579
Portland, OR
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Dave Fritzsche
(Building)
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 4:05 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
Two questions:
1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in
the position called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate
that it be mounted on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib
with the pitot mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to
find a position that would make both the connecting face and the screws on
the module easy to see and tighten.
2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before the
bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to the
wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that correct?
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
Dave, I don't normally post but I think my installation worked out well.
I have posted three different views. I would not place the controller
outboard of
the rib. The two AN3's are easily reached thru the access cover.
Ron Mara
Addison, Texas
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
> <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
> mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
> hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
> opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
> that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in the position
> called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate that it be mounted
> on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib with the pitot
> mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to find a position
> that would make both the connecting face and the screws on the module easy
> to see and tighten.
>
> 2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before
> the bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
> servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to
> the wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that
> correct?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Wings
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 7086 (20120425) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
>
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database
7086 (20120425) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim |
Sorry, size restriction... here's the third photo.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
Sent: Wednesday, April 25, 2012 6:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Gretz Pitot & Aileron Trim
> <fritzsch@eskimo.com>
>
> Two questions:
>
> 1. Where have you mounted the Gretz control module? Ideally it would be
> mounted so that the face of the wire connecting block and the screws that
> hold the wire in place would be easily accessible from the inspection
> opening. The location of the three attachment points on the module make
> that a little difficult. I have placed the head mount in the position
> called for by the plans. Access would seem to dictate that it be mounted
> on the inspection hole side (outboard side) of the rib with the pitot
> mount on the inboard side of the rib, but I can's seem to find a position
> that would make both the connecting face and the screws on the module easy
> to see and tighten.
>
> 2. It would appear to be much easier to install the aileron trim before
> the bottom skin was attached. But as I read the instructions for the trim
> servo, it looks like one has to wait until the ailerons are attached to
> the wings and possibly the wings are attached to the airplane. Is that
> correct?
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Wings
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
>
>
> __________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus
> signature database 7086 (20120425) __________
>
> The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
>
>
>
__________ Information from ESET NOD32 Antivirus, version of virus signature database
7086 (20120425) __________
The message was checked by ESET NOD32 Antivirus.
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