Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:56 AM - Re: Infant carseat in the -10 (James McGrew)
2. 03:15 AM - Re: Infant carseat in the -10 (Jesse Saint)
3. 04:55 AM - Re: Aileron Trim location (tsts4)
4. 07:47 AM - Re: RV-10 transition training (rleffler)
5. 08:14 AM - Re: Aileron Trim location (Miller John)
6. 08:46 AM - Re: SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking for a SL30 to swap (Ben Westfall)
7. 09:49 AM - Re: SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking for a (Bob Turner)
8. 10:54 AM - Re: Re: SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking for a (Tim Olson)
9. 03:56 PM - Skybolt Fasteners - Installation (Phillip Perry)
10. 04:16 PM - Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation ()
11. 05:42 PM - Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation (Michael Kraus)
12. 06:02 PM - Biotherm 100 Fire Wall sealant (Rick Lark)
13. 06:11 PM - Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation (Phil Perry)
14. 06:38 PM - Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation (Robin Marks)
15. 08:59 PM - Re: Re: Main gear shudder revisited (Seano)
16. 09:14 PM - Re: Re: Main gear shudder revisited (David Maib)
17. 10:29 PM - Re: Re: Main gear shudder revisited (ddddsp1@juno.com)
18. 11:29 PM - Re: Re: Main gear shudder revisited (David Maib)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Infant carseat in the -10 |
For starters, I wasn't allowed to take them flying until age 1. Not my
decision, but that's about when we could trust them to keep the
headset on, so it worked out. By then we had graduated to the forward
facing seat. Still challenging to install with the standard Van's 4
point seatbelts, but not too bad. My 4 year old now uses just a
booster seat which is infinitely less effort. In the past it has been
a lot of work transfering the seats from the car to the plane to the
pilot car at our destination back to the plane... Looking forward to
leaving that behind.
-Jim
On 5/21/12, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just a few weeks away from our first kid, and I'm already thinking about
> flying him around. I test fit our infant (rear-facing) carseat today, and
> am not happy with how the lap belt of my 4-point system secures the seat
> (see picture). I'd rather not have the buckle in the middle. Ideally I'd
> use the seat base, but my seatbelt doesn't get short enough to make the
> base work. What have others done?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
--
Sent from my mobile device
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Infant carseat in the -10 |
When is the baby due? My wife should be having a little girl around June 19t
h. Not exactly our first, but precious just the same.
We have only had a baby in the plane once. We strapped in the infant carrier
without the base. We have the standard Vans 4-point harnesses and it was ad
equate.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On May 21, 2012, at 12:07 AM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
> Just a few weeks away from our first kid, and I'm already thinking about f
lying him around. I test fit our infant (rear-facing) carseat today, and am
not happy with how the lap belt of my 4-point system secures the seat (see p
icture). I'd rather not have the buckle in the middle. Ideally I'd use the
seat base, but my seatbelt doesn't get short enough to make the base work.
What have others done?
>
> Thanks in advance for the help...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> <carseat_sm.jpg>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim location |
Concur with Albert. However, I put mine in the left per the plans because I wanted
to balance where I put things for both weight and wiring considerations.
With my my roll servo on the right wing that would have been a lot wires on one
side had I place the trim servo there as well.
--------
Todd Stovall
728TT (reserved)
RV-10 Empacone, Wings, Fuse
www.mykitlog.com/auburntsts
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373464#373464
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: RV-10 transition training |
Bob Turner wrote:
> Sort of a follow up on Bob's post:
>
> As to this thread: I wouldn't put too much weight on having the same EFIS. The
thrust of this training is really basic VFR piloting. I'd say what's more important,
can you land the plane if the EFIS totally quits? Which it may do on
a first flight. In a few hours of dual you really want to concentrate on making
flying the plane second nature, so that, when you do have your first flight,
you can be familiar enough with the flying that you can also look at engine
instruments, scan for traffic, etc. Once you're out of phase 1 then hire an instructor,
if need be, to instruct you in your plane, using your EFIS, autopilot,
GPS navigator, etc.
I didn't initially respond to Bob's email because I had a different opinion. I
just finished my transition training with Alex D. this weekend. I decided
to fly wIth Alex because he was the only instructor with an AFS panel.
That first flight I was overwhelmed by both the aircraft and the panel. I asked
to have the panel set to the six pack screen so that. I could focus on looking
out the window and flying the aircraft. I was having difficulties quickly
glancing and flying the information I was looking for. That extra time spent
find the information I was looking for distracted me and caused other issues.
Using the six pack, which was a familiar interface, solved my issues.
However, I did have several conversations on the ground going over menu and configuration
options which I found very valuable. Although I've flown in the right
seat behind the same edits, it isn't the same when you are the pic.
I'll probably use t he six pack during the initial flights of phase I.
So I still think taking transition training the same EFIS is beneficial. However,
any change in user interface may cause distractions and a learning curve.
Learning a new user interface and an aircraft at the same time may be too much
change to handle at one time.
I will say that training with Alex was very beneficial, as I'm sure the same is
with the others providing transition training. Alex is one of the best instructors
that I ever taken training from. I highly recommend Alex's training
program.
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - FWF
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373475#373475
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Aileron Trim location |
Mine is on the right wing and works just fine......
grumpy
do not archive
On May 20, 2012, at 3:48 PM, Albert Gardner wrote:
>
> Either wing will work fine.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Yuma, AZ
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Werner Schneider
> Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 10:10 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Aileron Trim location
>
>
> I'm running into a question and wanted to investigate if somebody did that
> already.
>
> Is there any reason, to follow strictly Van's plan and mount the aileron
> trim on the left hand wing or could it be done as well on the right hand
> wing?
>
> Reason is, doing the cabling plan for both wings I have much more wires
> tubes on the left hand wing then on the right hand, so adding teh trim servo
> there would ease a bit the size of the bundle on the left hand side.
>
> Many thanks for tips, consideration and real life reports
>
> Werner
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking for |
a SL30 to swap
Bill you might try building a simple harness w/power and audio and antenna
leads to bench test the unit. Although flying to one is probably more fun!!
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bill Watson
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2012 5:16 PM
Subject: RV10-List: SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking
for a SL30 to swap
I just returned from trip out west in my RV10 N215TG. Just before landing
at the absolute furthest point away from home, my SL30 stopped working
(partially). Fortunately I have a G430 with Comm to back it up though that
required a bit of work to make work.
Anyway, I'm back home in Durham (Lake Ridge 8NC8) and need to swap my
SL30 with a working SL30 to confirm it's disfunction. Once I send it in to
Garmin, I understand it will cost $800 no matter what they find so I want to
make sure it's not working.
Does anyone have a working SL30 that I can fly to and do a momentary swap
with. I can pretty much assure you that my installation won't damage your
unit. In fact, my SL30 powers up, tunes freqs, and otherwise appears to be
working. But it won't communicate.
The only other culprit could be the PMA 9000 EX. Hopefully a swap will
narrow it down to one or the other.
Thanks in advance,
Bill Watson
919-824-4179
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking for |
a
Bill,
I think there's an easy test for the PMA9000, IF the SL-30 is wired as the #1 com.
Just turn it off (push on the volume control knob). The audio panel is "fail
safe" and should provide a direct connection between the #1 com and the pilot's
headset (pilot only, and left ear only if stereo).
I'm on the wrong coast, or I'd offer to swap my SL-30. If you can find one that's
certainly the easiest test. If you can't find one to borrow, you can consider
the following:
The "fail safe" test on the audio panel doesn't check the wiring. I'd pull both
the SL-30 and the audio panel. Get out the schematics and figure out what pins
carry the audio signals between the units. Use an ohmmeter with long probes
to reach back to the pins and check continuity, both "high" and "low" side of
the audio lines.
Does the VOR side of the SL-30 work? If so, just swap the coax on the back (not
so easy, I know). Connect the VOR antenna to the com antenna input, and vice
versa. Does the VOR now not work, and does the com now receive? If the answer
is yes, then the problem is in the com coax or the antenna. If no, it's the SL-30
itself (assuming you've ruled out the audio panel and audio wiring).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373493#373493
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: SL30 problems in Phoenix - now I'm back in NC looking |
for a
Personally, my advice would be to either have a shop bench
test it, or take your SL-30 and put it in a known-good
airplane that uses an SL-30. If your SL-30 was somehow
blown up by a wiring issue or some other component in your
plane, it would really make you feel bad to take a fellow
RV'ers SL-30 and blow theirs up too. But to pull yours
and stick it into someone elses known-good tray, you'd
probably not be risking much.
Tim
On 5/21/2012 11:47 AM, Bob Turner wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: "Bob
> Turner"<bobturner@alum.rpi.edu>
>
> Bill,
>
> I think there's an easy test for the PMA9000, IF the SL-30 is wired
> as the #1 com. Just turn it off (push on the volume control knob).
> The audio panel is "fail safe" and should provide a direct connection
> between the #1 com and the pilot's headset (pilot only, and left ear
> only if stereo).
>
> I'm on the wrong coast, or I'd offer to swap my SL-30. If you can
> find one that's certainly the easiest test. If you can't find one to
> borrow, you can consider the following:
>
> The "fail safe" test on the audio panel doesn't check the wiring. I'd
> pull both the SL-30 and the audio panel. Get out the schematics and
> figure out what pins carry the audio signals between the units. Use
> an ohmmeter with long probes to reach back to the pins and check
> continuity, both "high" and "low" side of the audio lines.
>
> Does the VOR side of the SL-30 work? If so, just swap the coax on the
> back (not so easy, I know). Connect the VOR antenna to the com
> antenna input, and vice versa. Does the VOR now not work, and does
> the com now receive? If the answer is yes, then the problem is in the
> com coax or the antenna. If no, it's the SL-30 itself (assuming
> you've ruled out the audio panel and audio wiring).
>
> -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373493#373493
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Skybolt Fasteners - Installation |
Does anyone have any tips or documentation with regards to the installation
of SkyBolt's fasteners. The included documenation does an okay job of
detailing an RV-8 mockup, but it's nothing like the 10.
Any tips, documentation, or photos would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation |
Hey Phil,
I=99ve done several =938=99s now and the original
=9310 with skybolts (or camlocs) around the firewall, with hinge
pins on the horizontal joints. Some of the 8=99s owners got all
floating firewall receptacles =93 I don=99t recommend that
since that allows the gap to open between the cowl and the firewall. I
think they recommend only using the floating ones near the horizontal to
aid in installation after complete.
I don=99t like the =9Cears=9D that come with the new
kits to install as a flange along the firewall. It=99s relatively
so much easier to install a solid flange, then drill a pilot hole
through the cowl into the flange =93 match drilled, done. Vs.
trying to find the damn center of the pre-punched =9Cears=9D
with their jig, flashlight, etc.
Later, =93 Lew
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation |
I installed the SkyBolts on my RV-4, but to be honest with you, I like the c
lean lines of the Vans Hinge cowl installation better than the silver fasten
ers showing every few inches. To each his own, though...
-Mike Kraus
Do not archive
Sent from my iPhone
On May 21, 2012, at 7:16 PM, <lewgall@charter.net> wrote:
>
> Hey Phil,
>
> I=99ve done several =938=99s now and the original
=9310 with skybolts (or camlocs) around the firewall, with hinge pins on the
horizontal joints. Some of the 8=99s owners got all floating firewall
receptacles =93 I don=99t recommend that since that allows the g
ap to open between the cowl and the firewall. I think they recommend only u
sing the floating ones near the horizontal to aid in installation after comp
lete.
>
> I don=99t like the =9Cears=9D that come with the new kit
s to install as a flange along the firewall. It=99s relatively so muc
h easier to install a solid flange, then drill a pilot hole through the cowl
into the flange =93 match drilled, done. Vs. trying to find the damn
center of the pre-punched =9Cears=9D with their jig, flashlight
, etc.
>
> Later, =93 Lew
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Biotherm 100 Fire Wall sealant |
Hi all
Patrick Pulis had asked me to report on how the Biotherm 100 applied to my
firewall.
I finally got around to trying it today. For all intentions and purposes,
it is very similar to a silicon sealant. It was a little easier to use
(certainly a lot easier than Pro Seal) than silicon. I probably will add a
little more, read second application, to the corners of the firewall recess
after the initial application.
So Patrick, basically a non event . Hopefully I never need to depend on it.
Regards,
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation |
I don't care how they look. I just want them to work.
The RV10 kit is a puzzle.
Sent from my iPhone
On May 21, 2012, at 7:39 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrot
e:
> I installed the SkyBolts on my RV-4, but to be honest with you, I like the
clean lines of the Vans Hinge cowl installation better than the silver fast
eners showing every few inches. To each his own, though...
> -Mike Kraus
> Do not archive
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On May 21, 2012, at 7:16 PM, <lewgall@charter.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Hey Phil,
>>
>> I=99ve done several =938=99s now and the original
=9310 with skybolts (or camlocs) around the firewall, with hinge pins on the
horizontal joints. Some of the 8=99s owners got all floating firewall
receptacles =93 I don=99t recommend that since that allows the g
ap to open between the cowl and the firewall. I think they recommend only u
sing the floating ones near the horizontal to aid in installation after comp
lete.
>>
>> I don=99t like the =9Cears=9D that come with the new ki
ts to install as a flange along the firewall. It=99s relatively so m
uch easier to install a solid flange, then drill a pilot hole through the co
wl into the flange =93 match drilled, done. Vs. trying to find the da
mn center of the pre-punched =9Cears=9D with their jig, flashlig
ht, etc.
>>
>> Later, =93 Lew
>>
>>
>> =========================
=========
>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========================
=========
>> cs.com
>> =========================
=========
>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========================
=========
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Skybolt Fasteners - Installation |
Phil,
I have the skybolt style fastiners that can be adjusted to optimize height.
Not sure if they are skybolt or not. I think they ran me ~$500.00. I have/
had 4 RV's one was standard Vans Pins & Hinges and my -10 we used the Skybo
lt style fastiners and on both my 6A and my recent build of an RV-8A I used
S/S screws and washers. I do like the SB fastiners but they are expensive,
heavy and when the bits & pieces fail you you generally don't have a hand
full in your tool box or hangar. What I have come to like about the S/S scr
ews is they are light, inexpensive and available just about anywhere. They
work as well as the SB fastiners but with a fraction of the cost or effort.
Skybolt style
[Description: http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/SJ_Cowl/C
owl_Left.jpg]
S/S screws on my 6A
[Description: http://www.painttheweb.com/painttheweb/RV-6a/images/RV-6A%20P
ICTURES/Detail%20Photos/RV-6A%20(24).JPG]
Unpainted RV-8A with S/S screws and a special smaller washer. Painted photo
s due in 6 weeks :-)
[Description: J:\Users\Robin_2\Pictures\Airplanes\RV-8A\RV-8A Build Photos\
Cowl make-over 004.jpg]
I just re-read your email as I assume I am too late with my comments. Good
luck with your install.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Monday, May 21, 2012 3:54 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Skybolt Fasteners - Installation
Does anyone have any tips or documentation with regards to the installation
of SkyBolt's fasteners. The included documenation does an okay job of det
ailing an RV-8 mockup, but it's nothing like the 10.
Any tips, documentation, or photos would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Phil
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear shudder revisited |
Bill,
No photos yet
Yes I believe it's the right main.
When I first heard about this I was still in the building process and hadn't
installed the gear yet. I paid close attention if my gear was toed in or
out. When I check the predrilled hole in the gear I realized from the
factory, one gear toed in and one toed out. I originally thought this was
causing some RV10's to shake at a certain speed. I fixed mine by calling
Vans and asking if I could go one bolt size bigger on the gear mount. They
replied yes so I set mine perfect to 1.2 toe in and tac welded the top so I
could drill a new bigger hole. After I drilled the bigger hole I used a
grinder to take off the welds and pulled the gear out, cleaned the holes and
reinstalled. I thought for sure this would fix the shake but it didn't. It
was very light until I put the extra weight of the wheel pants on. I got
sick of it over time and thought I would try the wood. I prosealed the wood
on and taped it with fiber tape to test. It worked much better so I
stripped the tape and fiberglassed it in. Like I said earlier it didn't
take all the shake away but it is a heck of a lot better than it was.
----- Original Message -----
From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Main gear shudder revisited
>
> Sean,
> Is the shudder from the main gear? Do you have any photos
> Bill
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=373333#373333
>
>
>
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear shudder revisited |
I took video of mine and it is definitely the right main gear shaking starting
at about 15 knots.
David Maib
RV-10 Transition Training
40559
Flying 500+ hours
On May 21, 2012, at 11:58 PM, Seano wrote:
Bill,
No photos yet
Yes I believe it's the right main.
When I first heard about this I was still in the building process and hadn't installed
the gear yet. I paid close attention if my gear was toed in or out.
When I check the predrilled hole in the gear I realized from the factory, one
gear toed in and one toed out. I originally thought this was causing some RV10's
to shake at a certain speed. I fixed mine by calling Vans and asking if I
could go one bolt size bigger on the gear mount. They replied yes so I set mine
perfect to 1.2 toe in and tac welded the top so I could drill a new bigger
hole. After I drilled the bigger hole I used a grinder to take off the welds
and pulled the gear out, cleaned the holes and reinstalled. I thought for sure
this would fix the shake but it didn't. It was very light until I put the
extra weight of the wheel pants on. I got sick of it over time and thought I
would try the wood. I prosealed the wood on and taped it with fiber tape to test.
It worked much better so I stripped the tape and fiberglassed it in. Like
I said earlier it didn't take all the shake away but it is a heck of a lot
better than it was.
----- Original Message ----- From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
Sent: Friday, May 18, 2012 7:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Main gear shudder revisited
>
> Sean,
> Is the shudder from the main gear? Do you have any photos
> Bill
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
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Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear shudder revisited |
just curious,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what air pressure you guys running in yo
ur mains? Also do you still have the original vans tires?
Dean
____________________________________________________________
53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
http://thirdpartyoffers.juno.com/TGL3131/4fbb23a75525e1586b87st06vuc
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Main gear shudder revisited |
I've tried everything from 40 to 50 psi with no noticeable difference. I changed
to the Desser retreads with leak guard tubes when the original Van's tires were
worn out. Again, no noticeable change. I have balanced carefully, but makes
no difference. I get a shake starting at about 15 knots GS and it goes away
at about 18 or 19 knots. Seems a bit more noticeable when braking hard on landing,
but no real repeatable set of conditions. Sometimes, it doesn't shake at
all. Video camera on the belly of the airplane confirmed right main gear is the
culprit on my airplane.
David Maib
RV-10 Transition Trainer
40559
On May 22, 2012, at 1:24 AM, ddddsp1@juno.com wrote:
just curious,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,,what air pressure you guys running in your mains?
Also do you still have the original vans tires?
Dean
____________________________________________________________
53 Year Old Mom Looks 33
The Stunning Results of Her Wrinkle Trick Has Botox Doctors Worried
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