Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:03 AM - Re: N7ZK First Flight (Patrick Pulis)
2. 03:56 AM - Re: Overhead Air - Bulkhead Penetration (Bob Leffler)
3. 04:09 AM - Painting Screw Survey (Michael Kraus)
4. 04:12 AM - Painting Screw Survey (Michael Kraus)
5. 05:51 AM - Re: Painting Screw Survey (Marcus Cooper)
6. 06:06 AM - Re: Painting Screw Survey (Seano)
7. 08:17 AM - Re: N7ZK First Flight (Carl Froehlich)
8. 08:36 AM - Re: N7ZK First Flight (Michael Kraus)
9. 08:45 AM - Re: Painting Screw Survey (Bill Watson)
10. 08:58 AM - Re: Painting Screw Survey (Robin Marks)
11. 09:46 AM - memorial day (pilotdds)
12. 11:11 AM - IO-540 Slick Mag ()
13. 11:15 AM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (pilotdds)
14. 05:36 PM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (Bob Turner)
15. 05:37 PM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (Dave Saylor)
16. 05:52 PM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (John Cox)
17. 06:01 PM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (Kelly McMullen)
18. 06:19 PM - Re: Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (Robin Marks)
19. 07:24 PM - Re: Painting Screw Survey (bill.peyton)
20. 08:18 PM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag (David Leikam)
21. 10:43 PM - Re: IO-540 Slick Mag ()
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: N7ZK First Flight |
Congratulations mate, well done and well worth the blood, sweat and tears of
building. Hopefully I won't be too far behind you!
Safe skies to you my friend.
Warm regards from down under
Patrick Pulis
#40299
Adelaide, South Australia
On 28/05/2012, at 3:23 AM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wro
te:
> All went well. Very stable with plenty of power. I=99ll fly anothe
r week or so to ring out the engine and them put on the gear leg fairings an
d wheel pants.
>
> Wings level and ball centered hands off =93 can=99t ask more t
han that.
>
> Carl
> <First Flight 5-27-12.jpg>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Overhead Air - Bulkhead Penetration |
Must people (and myself) have gone with the standard 2" hole. You can get a
2" mounting bracket from Vans or ACS. The flange part of this bracket als
o serves as a doubler for some reinforcement.
They do make riveting the top skin a little more interesting, but if I could
figure it out, anyone can too.
Have you got Geoff's naca controller valve? You are going to want to have s
ome method to shut down the air flow when it's really cold. Even throttling
back at other times helps with whistling and pressure issues.
Sent from my iPad
On May 27, 2012, at 9:58 PM, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
> What sized holes has everyone been punching through the bulkhead for overh
ead air?
>
> I've got the typical dual NACA setup on the sides feeding 2" tubing to the
bulkhead. I'm tempted to drill a hole in the neighborhood of 3/4 to 1" in s
ize and let the 2" tubing feed air through those smaller holes.
>
> Has anyone done that and how much air are you getting? I'm not a fan of k
nocking a 2" hole in a 3" bulkhead.
>
> Phil
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Painting Screw Survey |
Just curious what others have done.
Have you painted your screws for things like:
- underwing access covers
-
Sent from my iPhone
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Painting Screw Survey |
Just curious what others have done.
Have you painted your screws for things like:
- underwing access covers
- wing root access fairings
- wing tip attachment
- fiberglass fairings
- etc
On my RV-4, I painted them all and alway fought with them chipping. I'm thinking
about using stainless screws and leaving them natural.
Wondering what others are doing.
-Mike Kraus
RV-10 flying
Going in for paint this week!!
Sent from my iPhone
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting Screw Survey |
Mike,
I painted everything except for the screws on things I know would be removed
in the future for inspections or work. I use stainless screws in those locations
and think they actually look pretty sharp.
Marcus
On May 28, 2012, at 7:12 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
Just curious what others have done.
Have you painted your screws for things like:
- underwing access covers
- wing root access fairings
- wing tip attachment
- fiberglass fairings
- etc
On my RV-4, I painted them all and alway fought with them chipping. I'm thinking
about using stainless screws and leaving them natural.
Wondering what others are doing.
-Mike Kraus
RV-10 flying
Going in for paint this week!!
Sent from my iPhone
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting Screw Survey |
I have all stainless. Not painted. I left all my door hardware and
everything you mentioned below unpainted stainless, even the wingtank
screws, thanks to Robin's suggestions.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 5:12 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Painting Screw Survey
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Just curious what others have done.
>
> Have you painted your screws for things like:
> - underwing access covers
> - wing root access fairings
> - wing tip attachment
> - fiberglass fairings
> - etc
>
> On my RV-4, I painted them all and alway fought with them chipping. I'm
> thinking about using stainless screws and leaving them natural.
>
> Wondering what others are doing.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-10 flying
> Going in for paint this week!!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | N7ZK First Flight |
Some follow up. Second and third flight this morning. On the second
flight I had the air dams cut down to 1.6=9D at the highest point.
#1 and #2 CHTs were much cooler than yesterday, but still hotter than
the rest. On the third flight I just took the air dams off. Now #1 and
#2 are the coolest, but just a little. #4 and #5 are the hottest but
not much more than the rest.
Max CHT today was 440 after climb out from a quick fuel stop (yes
=93 another overly aggressive climb), oil peaked at 226. At
4500=99 with 24=9D and 2400RPM all cylinders now below 400,
oil at 208. OAT 80+ and humid.
Of note the oil temps are lower than I expected for these conditions. I
did a different cooler mount than Van=99s so perhaps that had an
effect. Next flight I=99ll shut the oil cooler butterfly valve
some to see if that puts more air over the cylinders.
Wheel pants and fairings go on next weekend. I=99m hopeful the
extra speed will further help.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 7:24 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
Carl, I ca't believe no one else has commented.... those temps are WAY
tooooooo hot. The Aluminum starts breaking down at those temps....
Questions: Do you have a stk Vans cowl? Plenum?
I would suggest you put the wheel pants on immediately... that will
enable you to climb and cruise at a higher speed, which will provide
more cooling. Also, pull back the rpm's and mp a little and keep those
temps under 430 in climb, and 400 or so in cruise... optimally 360 to
380. Please keep us informed.... talked to one of our RV guru's here,
and he agrees totally.
Don McDonald
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:53 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
500 for the hottest cylinder heads (#1 & #2) on the climb out (120 kts).
All others were below 470 at the peak. All came down when I lowered
the nose to a 130 kt climb. Second hop all were below 460, #1 & #2
again hottest. Oil temp peak at 226. OAT 80 or so. I have air dams in
front of #1 and #2 that I knew were probably too tall. I just finish
trimming them down and will test tomorrow. It took me a couple of tries
on the 8A to get these the right height.
The significant drop in CHTs after the first hour is a hopeful sign that
the engine break in is progressing as expected.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
Congrats Carl.... we've got another 10 here (Dave Moore - Pecan
Plantation in TX) that's being inspected tomorrow with first flight
scheduled for Tues.
How were the temps w/o the pants?
Don McDonald
From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 12:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
All went well. Very stable with plenty of power. I=99ll fly
another week or so to ring out the engine and them put on the gear leg
fairings and wheel pants.
Wings level and ball centered hands off =93 can=99t ask more
than that.
Carl
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
vigator?RV10-List" rel="nofollow"
target="_blank">http://www.matronics.============
===========
forums.matronics.com" rel="nofollow"
target="_blank">http://forums.matr -->
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
<http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
Email Forum -
Features Navigator to browse
such as List Un/Subscription,
Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
more:
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: N7ZK First Flight |
Wheel pants = less drag and more speed. The plane doesn't work as hard an
d flys faster. You will notice some more improvement.
-Mike Kraus
Sent from my iPhone
On May 28, 2012, at 11:16 AM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> w
rote:
> Some follow up. Second and third flight this morning. On the second flig
ht I had the air dams cut down to 1.6=9D at the highest point. #1 and
#2 CHTs were much cooler than yesterday, but still hotter than the rest. O
n the third flight I just took the air dams off. Now #1 and #2 are the cool
est, but just a little. #4 and #5 are the hottest but not much more than th
e rest.
>
> Max CHT today was 440 after climb out from a quick fuel stop (yes =93
another overly aggressive climb), oil peaked at 226. At 4500=99 with
24=9D and 2400RPM all cylinders now below 400, oil at 208. OAT 80+ a
nd humid.
>
> Of note the oil temps are lower than I expected for these conditions. I d
id a different cooler mount than Van=99s so perhaps that had an effect
. Next flight I=99ll shut the oil cooler butterfly valve some to see i
f that puts more air over the cylinders.
>
> Wheel pants and fairings go on next weekend. I=99m hopeful the extr
a speed will further help.
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 7:24 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
>
> Carl, I ca't believe no one else has commented.... those temps are WAY too
ooooo hot. The Aluminum starts breaking down at those temps.... Questions:
Do you have a stk Vans cowl? Plenum?
> I would suggest you put the wheel pants on immediately... that will enable
you to climb and cruise at a higher speed, which will provide more cooling.
Also, pull back the rpm's and mp a little and keep those temps under 430 i
n climb, and 400 or so in cruise... optimally 360 to 380. Please keep us in
formed.... talked to one of our RV guru's here, and he agrees totally.
> Don McDonald
>
> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:53 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
>
> 500 for the hottest cylinder heads (#1 & #2) on the climb out (120 kts). A
ll others were below 470 at the peak. All came down when I lowered the nose
to a 130 kt climb. Second hop all were below 460, #1 & #2 again hottest. O
il temp peak at 226. OAT 80 or so. I have air dams in front of #1 and #2 t
hat I knew were probably too tall. I just finish trimming them down and wil
l test tomorrow. It took me a couple of tries on the 8A to get these the ri
ght height.
>
> The significant drop in CHTs after the first hour is a hopeful sign that t
he engine break in is progressing as expected.
>
> Carl
>
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@
matronics.com] On Behalf Of Don McDonald
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 2:25 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
>
> Congrats Carl.... we've got another 10 here (Dave Moore - Pecan Plantation
in TX) that's being inspected tomorrow with first flight scheduled for Tues
.
> How were the temps w/o the pants?
> Don McDonald
>
> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com; dmaib@me.com
> Sent: Sunday, May 27, 2012 12:53 PM
> Subject: RV10-List: N7ZK First Flight
>
> All went well. Very stable with plenty of power. I=99ll fly anothe
r week or so to ring out the engine and them put on the gear leg fairings an
d wheel pants.
>
> Wings level and ball centered hands off =93 can=99t ask more t
han that.
>
> Carl
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
> vigator?RV10-List" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://www.matronics
.=======================
> forums.matronics.com" rel="nofollow" target="_blank">http://forums.mat
r -->
>
>
>
>
>
> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting Screw Survey |
I did not over-paint any screws.
I did paint a large number of screws including wing tanks, wing tips,
etc. Just poked holes in some cardboard for the requisite number of
screws and shot them when their color came up.
Used stainless on high use screws like wheel pants and cowling.
From a painting perspective, I removed all the wing tank screws for the
wing painting. It allowed paint down into the seams and seemed to be a
good thing to do for this first time painter.
So far, so good.
Bill Watson
On 5/28/2012 7:12 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
> --> RV10-List message posted by: Michael Kraus<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> Just curious what others have done.
>
> Have you painted your screws for things like:
> - underwing access covers
> - wing root access fairings
> - wing tip attachment
> - fiberglass fairings
> - etc
>
> On my RV-4, I painted them all and alway fought with them chipping. I'm thinking
about using stainless screws and leaving them natural.
>
> Wondering what others are doing.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-10 flying
> Going in for paint this week!!
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting Screw Survey |
After 4 years and 2 new RVs I still agree with...myself... S/S screws in all those
spots and unpainted. The only screws that ended up painted on my -10 were
4 rudder trim motor mount screws. When the position indicator fried removing the
screws was a sad day. Chip city... Requiring a repaint.
The unpainted S/S screws look good in my opinion. I can't imagine painting any
of the screws you mentioned because those bits and pieces ARE coming off at some
point.
Robin
Sent from the new iPad
On May 28, 2012, at 6:10 AM, "Seano" <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
>
> I have all stainless. Not painted. I left all my door hardware and everything
you mentioned below unpainted stainless, even the wingtank screws, thanks to
Robin's suggestions.
>
>
>
>
>
> ----- Original Message ----- From: "Michael Kraus" <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
> To: <rv10-list@matronics.com>
> Sent: Monday, May 28, 2012 5:12 AM
> Subject: RV10-List: Painting Screw Survey
>
>
>>
>> Just curious what others have done.
>>
>> Have you painted your screws for things like:
>> - underwing access covers
>> - wing root access fairings
>> - wing tip attachment
>> - fiberglass fairings
>> - etc
>>
>> On my RV-4, I painted them all and alway fought with them chipping. I'm thinking
about using stainless screws and leaving them natural.
>>
>> Wondering what others are doing.
>>
>> -Mike Kraus
>> RV-10 flying
>> Going in for paint this week!!
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
Lets all remember those who served and especially those who gave the ultima
te sacrifice so we can enjoy our freedoms.George you are with me whenever I
fly.
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | IO-540 Slick Mag |
I am in Albany, OR, with a mag problem. Lightspeed works fine but The new Slick
with only 20 hours on it is not sparking. Opened it up and everything looks fine,
points open and close, rotor turns, and the brush looks ok but no spark.
Even got brave and held it when I. Turned it over but no spark. Only good thing
is there are several RV's here and they are a great help. Any ideas would be
appreciated.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Usually Yuma but OR for a while.
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
can loan you a bendix in stockton ca can ship tommorrow morn-jim
-----Original Message-----
From: ibspud <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
Sent: Mon, May 28, 2012 11:11 am
Subject: RV10-List: IO-540 Slick Mag
I am in Albany, OR, with a mag problem. Lightspeed works fine but The new S
lick
ith only 20 hours on it is not sparking. Opened it up and everything looks
ine, points open and close, rotor turns, and the brush looks ok but no spar
k.
ven got brave and held it when I. Turned it over but no spark. Only good th
ing
s there are several RV's here and they are a great help. Any ideas would be
ppreciated.
lbert Gardner
991RV
sually Yuma but OR for a while.
-= - The RV10-List Email Forum -
-= Use the Matronics List Features Navigator to browse
-= the many List utilities such as List Un/Subscription,
-= Archive Search & Download, 7-Day Browse, Chat, FAQ,
-= Photoshare, and much much more:
-
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
-
-========================
-= - MATRONICS WEB FORUMS -
-= Same great content also available via the Web Forums!
-
-= --> http://forums.matronics.com
-
-========================
-= - List Contribution Web Site -
-= Thank you for your generous support!
-= -Matt Dralle, List Admin.
-= --> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
-========================
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
Can you get an ohmmeter across the coil? I don't know what it should read but "infinity"
is wrong.
I think your "hold it in your hand test" will not work, even with a good mag, unless
you have impulse couplings. The standard IO-540 sold by Vans does not have
them, it uses Slick Start instead.
Prior to flying I pulled all the plugs so there was no compression; laid one plug,
hooked up, on a good ground; and then rotated the prop as fast as I could
by hand. With no compression that's pretty fast. But it wasn't fast enough to
generate a spark.
(If the battery dies so much that the Slick start won't run, you can't hand prop
this engine).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=374115#374115
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
Try disconnecting the P-Lead. Maybe it's shorted to ground somewhere.
Just remember the mag will be hot.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 11:09 AM, <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
> I am in Albany, OR, with a mag problem. Lightspeed works fine but The new Slick
with only 20 hours on it is not sparking. Opened it up and everything looks
fine, points open and close, rotor turns, and the brush looks ok but no spark.
Even got brave and held it when I. Turned it over but no spark. Only good thing
is there are several RV's here and they are a great help. Any ideas would
be appreciated.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Usually Yuma but OR for a while.
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
A shorted Ground or P lead can create a lower resistance path. I have seen
two different Vans/Aircraft Spruce switches go "tango uniform".
Johnny Horizon
On May 28, 2012 5:40 PM, "Dave Saylor" <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
wrote:
> dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>
> Try disconnecting the P-Lead. Maybe it's shorted to ground somewhere.
> Just remember the mag will be hot.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 11:09 AM, <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
> >
> > I am in Albany, OR, with a mag problem. Lightspeed works fine but The
> new Slick with only 20 hours on it is not sparking. Opened it up and
> everything looks fine, points open and close, rotor turns, and the brush
> looks ok but no spark. Even got brave and held it when I. Turned it over
> but no spark. Only good thing is there are several RV's here and they are a
> great help. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> > Albert Gardner
> > N991RV
> > Usually Yuma but OR for a while.
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
I have also had a P lead internally shorting to the shield, causing a dead
mag.
On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 5:51 PM, John Cox <rv10pro@gmail.com> wrote:
> A shorted Ground or P lead can create a lower resistance path. I have
> seen two different Vans/Aircraft Spruce switches go "tango uniform".
>
> Johnny Horizon
> On May 28, 2012 5:40 PM, "Dave Saylor" <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
> wrote:
>
>> dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
>>
>> Try disconnecting the P-Lead. Maybe it's shorted to ground somewhere.
>> Just remember the mag will be hot.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Mon, May 28, 2012 at 11:09 AM, <ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>> >
>> > I am in Albany, OR, with a mag problem. Lightspeed works fine but The
>> new Slick with only 20 hours on it is not sparking. Opened it up and
>> everything looks fine, points open and close, rotor turns, and the brush
>> looks ok but no spark. Even got brave and held it when I. Turned it over
>> but no spark. Only good thing is there are several RV's here and they are a
>> great help. Any ideas would be appreciated.
>> > Albert Gardner
>> > N991RV
>> > Usually Yuma but OR for a while.
>> >
>> >
>> >
>> >
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
I don't even want to hand prop a model airplane.
Robin
Do not archive
Sent from the new iPad
On May 28, 2012, at 5:42 PM, "Bob Turner" <bobturner@alum.rpi.edu> wrote:
>
> Can you get an ohmmeter across the coil? I don't know what it should read but
"infinity" is wrong.
>
> I think your "hold it in your hand test" will not work, even with a good mag,
unless you have impulse couplings. The standard IO-540 sold by Vans does not
have them, it uses Slick Start instead.
>
> Prior to flying I pulled all the plugs so there was no compression; laid one
plug, hooked up, on a good ground; and then rotated the prop as fast as I could
by hand. With no compression that's pretty fast. But it wasn't fast enough to
generate a spark.
>
> (If the battery dies so much that the Slick start won't run, you can't hand prop
this engine).
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=374115#374115
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Painting Screw Survey |
I am in the process of painting the fuse, and I have removed all of the screws
that show on the outside. I plan on replacing them with either stainless or
just painting the heads in the case if the door side hinge screws. I plan on
using structural stainless for the fuel tank. I think they look cleaner than painted
over and, I know that one of the tanks will more than likely be removed
based on the weeping rivet stories I hear and possibly other maintenance.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=374127#374127
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
Early on, I think for my second flight, I went to start the engine and
it would not fire. I had started the engine many times before and had
flown once. Pulled plugs and found no spark when cranking. Pulled the
mag and found the retard contact point terminal had worn through and
shorted to the side of the mag case. This was hard to spot at first and
took very close inspection. I had to bend the wire slightly to see the
shine of the terminal metal through the heat shrink. You can see in the
photo the connector heat shrink on the orange wire touching the case. I
am sure vibration caused it to wear through the heat shrink and grounded
it to the case. I reinstalled the connector with new heat shrink and
bent the tab slightly to clear the case. This is how it came as
installed by Slick.
After the repair she fired right up. So far so good.
G3 ignition does the job of Slick Start.
Dave Leikam
On May 28, 2012, at 1:09 PM, <ibspud@roadrunner.com>
<ibspud@roadrunner.com> wrote:
>
> I am in Albany, OR, with a mag problem. Lightspeed works fine but The
new Slick with only 20 hours on it is not sparking. Opened it up and
everything looks fine, points open and close, rotor turns, and the brush
looks ok but no spark. Even got brave and held it when I. Turned it over
but no spark. Only good thing is there are several RV's here and they
are a great help. Any ideas would be appreciated.
> Albert Gardner
> N991RV
> Usually Yuma but OR for a while.
>
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: IO-540 Slick Mag |
The guys here at Albany have been a big help. My mag was a new (20 hours) Slick
6351 impulse coupled, non-retard, left rotation, 20 degree lag. With the mag
out of the plane there was no spark. We found another mag and started swapping
parts eventually swapping out the coil, condenser, and the rotor. Nome of the
parts made my mag work but all of my parts worked fine in another mag. Assuming
we haven't confused ourselves that seems strange. I have located an A&P who
will look at it tomorrow. Many thanks for those of you who have offered advice
and/or offered to send a mag. So far the problem is still with me but tomorrow
is another day. Weather her in IMC in the mornings anyway so maybe I will be
good to go by the time the weather improves tomorrow. Again, thanks everyone.
Albert Gardner
N991RV
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|