RV10-List Digest Archive

Tue 06/05/12


Total Messages Posted: 12



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 01:17 AM - Duct Support (LeoCruz)
     2. 03:00 AM - : broken pilot step (Etandrews)
     3. 06:59 AM - Re: : broken pilot step (AirMike)
     4. 08:24 AM - Re: Whelen LED nav/strobes (Ben Westfall)
     5. 08:57 AM - Re: Re: : broken pilot step (Werner Schneider)
     6. 09:28 AM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (Jae Chang)
     7. 04:09 PM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (Robin Marks)
     8. 06:03 PM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (Seano)
     9. 06:13 PM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (egodfrey@ameritech.net)
    10. 07:05 PM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (Phillip Perry)
    11. 08:19 PM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (Sean Stephens)
    12. 10:33 PM - Re: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals (Robin Marks)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 01:17:20 AM PST US
    Subject: Duct Support
    From: "LeoCruz" <leocruz.cruz1@gmail.com>
    Roof supports.com is a reliable site of roof; pipe manufactures a variety of pipe supports and pipe hangers. Pipe system designers must calculate the pull of gravity and for the progress due to thermal expansion. Supports, variables, and constants are devices which are cost effective and structurally sound in solving certain pipe support issues. The air duct support and heat and A/C are important components of any home. In order to live comfortably it is important the HVAC serviceman you hire is competent and open to your questions. As you search for the right person for the job, don't be afraid to ask what's on your mind. If you're thorough, you'll be able to breathe easy. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=374746#374746


    Message 2


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    Time: 03:00:24 AM PST US
    Subject: : broken pilot step
    From: Etandrews <etandrews@westnet.com.au>
    Everyone I have had a broken pilots step after approximately 200hrs flying. I noticed a minor crack in the paint above the top weld where the upright section of the step connected to the horizontal fuselage section. Later that day when alighting the step it failed. The weld appeared almost non existent. It may be worth inspecting your own steps for signs of failure. I am planning to install an inspection hatch to access the step anchor bolt along with a new step. Kind regards Evan Andrews VH-OSH Australia flying Sent from my iPad


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:59:25 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: : broken pilot step
    From: "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net>
    Truly sorry to hear about the broken step. At least nobody was hurt when it broke - could have caused a nasty gash. I have long recommended an inspection hatch for the step bolt as well as to check on corrosion. I used the access hatch from the wing. Installed it fits flush. -------- See you OSH '12 Q/B - flying 2 yrs. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=374755#374755 Attachments: http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1000864_434.jpg


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:24:34 AM PST US
    From: "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com>
    Subject: Whelen LED nav/strobes
    A follow up about the Microburst line of lights from Whelen as Patrick eluded to I did find the install instructions which state right at the top =9CProduct does not meet the requirements of 91.205(c), required equipment for night flight. Airplanes certified for night operation should not consider this product.=9D http://www.whelen.com/install/143/14360.pdf -Ben From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall Sent: Monday, June 04, 2012 3:42 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Whelen LED nav/strobes That=99s a good point to which I am unsure. Their website is not the best and I cannot seem to find much in the way of tech doc=99s. The Aveo embedded ones are probably the slickest =9Clooking=9D ones out there but buying those w/tail strobe is well over $1k compared to Whelen=99s $499 for all 3. I=99m aware of the Kestrel products and ztronlabs.com alternatives but was really wondering about Whelen=99s in particular. -Ben You need to ask do they meet FAA regulation for night flight, able50 see them up and down. Not just outward. Patrick Thyssen N15pt Sent from my iPad On Jun 4, 2012, at 1:21 PM, "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com> wrote: Does anyone have experience with Whelen=99s newer Microburst LED Nav/Strobe setup? http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/elpages/microburstIItailwhelen.php At first glance they seem equivalent in functionality to the Aero Leds and/or Aveo products at roughly half the price. Ben Westfall


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:57:46 AM PST US
    From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
    Subject: Re: : broken pilot step
    Mike, how did you solve that two of your screws are hidden behind the riveted baggage side panel? Any picture with that panel in place? I moved mine a little bit to the center and cut out a bit on the flange of the panel. Cheers Werner On 05.06.2012 15:57, AirMike wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "AirMike"<Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> > > Truly sorry to hear about the broken step. At least nobody was hurt when it broke - could have caused a nasty gash. I have long recommended an inspection hatch for the step bolt as well as to check on corrosion. I used the access hatch from the wing. Installed it fits flush. > > -------- > See you OSH '12 > Q/B - flying 2 yrs. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=374755#374755 > > > Attachments: > > http://forums.matronics.com//files/p1000864_434.jpg > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 09:28:18 AM PST US
    From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
    I never did the build-up for the mcmaster seal, so it is constantly falling off. In retrospect, i wish i had used a simple foam seal. It would have been far far simpler and easier to maintain than either the mcmaster seal or the stock seal. Jae -- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 do not archive On 6/4/2012 9:09 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > >>trim the gutter so there is 1/8" gap<< > > It turns out you don't even need 1/8". The seals compress to less > than 1/16. I use a couple layers to build up any areas that are more > than 1/8, or you can use thicker material. > > I posted a couple pictures to the list on 10/5/09. > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 <tel:831-750-0284> CL


    Message 7


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    Time: 04:09:11 PM PST US
    From: Robin Marks <robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
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    Message 8


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    Time: 06:03:43 PM PST US
    From: "Seano" <sean@braunandco.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
    Ditto for me, thanks to Robin. I copied the grinder tool and it made the job a lot easier. If I had to do it all over again, I wouldn't change a thing with the door seal. Definitely quieter than the vans seal possibly due to the hinge covers and consistent pressure around the door. ----- Original Message ----- From: Robin Marks To: rv10-list@matronics.com Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 4:19 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals I cannot hope for a better seal and door fit on my -10 partially due to the McMaster Carr door seal. Extremely happy we used it. Like many items on the build you just have to put one foot in front of the other and one day you are flying. As far as effort we built a simple guide that we attached to pneumatic grinder and had each door precisely trimmed in 15 minutes. Robin From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jae Chang Sent: Tuesday, June 05, 2012 9:27 AM To: rv10-list@matronics.com Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals I never did the build-up for the mcmaster seal, so it is constantly falling off. In retrospect, i wish i had used a simple foam seal. It would have been far far simpler and easier to maintain than either the mcmaster seal or the stock seal. Jae -- #40533 RV-10First flight 10/19/2011Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011do not archiveOn 6/4/2012 9:09 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: >>trim the gutter so there is 1/8" gap<< It turns out you don't even need 1/8". The seals compress to less than 1/16. I use a couple layers to build up any areas that are more than 1/8, or you can use thicker material. I posted a couple pictures to the list on 10/5/09. Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL ======================= =EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=03g(=EF =BD=EF=BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD


    Message 9


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    Time: 06:13:22 PM PST US
    From: "egodfrey@ameritech.net" <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
    Just to ask a question, since I am not at the stage installing sun visors, would it be possible to glass in a "block" that the visor could be mounted to? That way, you could screw the mount into the block and not to the cabin top. Any problems with this method that anyone can throw a flag on the idea? Ed Godfrey 40717 On 4/10/2012 7:35 AM, jkreidler wrote: > --> RV10-List message posted by: "jkreidler"<jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com> > > We each build our own airplanes and make our own decisions please dont take this as criticism just food for thought. I had a conversation with Ken K. regarding drilling holes in the gutter in order to add sun visors the cabin top, specifically the cabin top posts. Ken indicated that one of the challenges in the design was getting the cabin top to pass the inverted drop test. He was visibly uncomfortable with the idea of drilling any holes in the gutter to mount visors, for those who have had conversations with Ken K. in person you may know the wince he gives. > > By removing the entire inside radius of the gutter in order to install the McMaster Carr style seal you are significantly changing the section modulus of the cabin top post and COULD be significantly increasing the likelihood of a cabin top failure in a roll over type accident. Just something to consider as you make what may seem to be a harmless improvement to the design. > > Again, these are your decisions I am only trying to provide an alternate perspective to the decision. > > Thanks Jason > > -------- > Jason Kreidler > 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI > Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler > N44YH - Flying - #40617 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=370434#370434 > >


    Message 10


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    Time: 07:05:49 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
    From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
    That is what I wanted to do originally. But there just isn't that much space to work with, so they kinda find their own spot. If you don't have an overhead center console, you might have a few more inches to work with, but not much. The curve of the door frame pretty much dictates where they go. On that topic, I would wait on determining the visors position until the the panel can be installed temporarily and the seats (with foam) adjusted so they're comfortable. Once you're comfortable in the cockpit, then figure out where the visors go. It's pretty easy to put them directly in the line of vision if you don't go through the prep work to put the cockpit together. Phil On Tue, Jun 5, 2012 at 7:34 PM, egodfrey@ameritech.net < egodfrey@ameritech.net> wrote: > egodfrey@ameritech.net> > > Just to ask a question, since I am not at the stage installing sun visors, > would it be possible to glass in a "block" that the visor could be mounted > to? That way, you could screw the mount into the block and not to the cabin > top. Any problems with this method that anyone can throw a flag on the idea? > > Ed Godfrey > 40717 > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 08:19:09 PM PST US
    From: Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
    15 minutes? I'd like to see a pic of this guide. It could cut a couple hours off my total build time on my next RV-10! :) On 6/5/12 5:19 PM, Robin Marks wrote: > > I cannot hope for a better seal and door fit on my -10 partially due > to the McMaster Carr door seal. Extremely happy we used it. Like many > items on the build you just have to put one foot in front of the other > and one day you are flying. As far as effort we built a simple guide > that we attached to pneumatic grinder and had each door precisely > trimmed in 15 minutes. > > Robin > > *From:*owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Jae Chang > *Sent:* Tuesday, June 05, 2012 9:27 AM > *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com > *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals > > I never did the build-up for the mcmaster seal, so it is constantly > falling off. In retrospect, i wish i had used a simple foam seal. It > would have been far far simpler and easier to maintain than either the > mcmaster seal or the stock seal. > > Jae > -- > > #40533 RV-10 > First flight 10/19/2011 > Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 > do not archive > > On 6/4/2012 9:09 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > >>trim the gutter so there is 1/8" gap<< > > It turns out you don't even need 1/8". The seals compress to less > than 1/16. I use a couple layers to build up any areas that are more > than 1/8, or you can use thicker material. > > I posted a couple pictures to the list on 10/5/09. > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 <tel:831-750-0284> CL > > * * > * * > * * > ~,gM4Gqz.'8E]t.+-fZ+`axr^jzZ(j|n)b'!j'+ry'C > { > ,x(ZP!jrrj|-&j',r5hum > 'ojj+E]t.+-08IaT1 > jgrz{Zi^&lZ+ky+k&j',r+k&j',rhB{ky.+jY^.+-i0fr((nbxm-&j',rr&*''k{w/tml


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:33:12 PM PST US
    From: Robin Marks <robin@painttheweb.com>
    Subject: Re: Door Gutter and McMaster Seals
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