Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:24 AM - Nose wheel fairing breaks (Tim Lewis)
2. 07:49 AM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Michael Kraus)
3. 10:16 AM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Carl Froehlich)
4. 02:18 PM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Bill Watson)
5. 03:48 PM - Glassing Window Transition (Les Kearney)
6. 04:38 PM - Re: Glassing Window Transition (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
7. 04:55 PM - Re: Glassing Window Transition (Seano)
8. 07:49 PM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Don McDonald)
9. 08:38 PM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Nose wheel fairing breaks |
After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my RV-10
nose wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in this photo:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started.
With very little force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two
pieces.
I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of
fiberglass and epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire
circumference of the fairing forward of the bulkhead. I also added a
1" wide reinforcement around the opening for the wheel:
https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of the
fairing during construction.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks |
I believe the instructions tell you to reinforce the opening with 2-3 layers of
glass. I reinforced mine with carbon fiber.
Might want to double check and make sure you have ample clearance to the wheel.
I believe I have 3/4" all around..
-Mine Kraus
RV-10 Flying
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 11, 2012, at 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my RV-10 nose
wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in this photo:
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
>
> I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started. With very
little force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two pieces.
>
> I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of fiberglass and
epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire circumference of the fairing
forward of the bulkhead. I also added a 1" wide reinforcement around the
opening for the wheel:
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
>
> I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of the fairing
during construction.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Nose wheel fairing breaks |
Yep - mine ripped the same way while wrestling with it on fit up. Put two
layers of carbon fiber on the inside, ground out what was left of the crack,
filled the void with flox, sanded smooth and then a couple of layers of
glass on the outside. Finish with mico.
Carl
33.6 hours - first O2 flight earlier today.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 10:49 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel fairing breaks
--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
I believe the instructions tell you to reinforce the opening with 2-3 layers
of glass. I reinforced mine with carbon fiber.
Might want to double check and make sure you have ample clearance to the
wheel. I believe I have 3/4" all around..
-Mine Kraus
RV-10 Flying
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 11, 2012, at 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my RV-10
nose wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in this photo:
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
>
> I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started.
With very little force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two
pieces.
>
> I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of fiberglass
and epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire circumference of
the fairing forward of the bulkhead. I also added a 1" wide reinforcement
around the opening for the wheel:
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
>
> I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of the
fairing during construction.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks |
I didn't reinforce mine. Haven't had any breakage yet operating out of
a relatively rough grass strip.
I did make it a point to cut them back further than I wanted to... then
a bit more. Since I have them off the plane right now, I may try to
compare with your pics to see if I can compare them.
Reinforcement sounds like a good thing.
Bill "finishing up my first condition inspection" Watson
On 8/11/2012 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>
> After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my
> RV-10 nose wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in
> this photo:
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
>
> I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started.
> With very little force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two
> pieces.
>
> I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of
> fiberglass and epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire
> circumference of the fairing forward of the bulkhead. I also added a
> 1" wide reinforcement around the opening for the wheel:
>
> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
>
> I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of the
> fairing during construction.
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Glassing Window Transition |
Hi
Somewhere recently I read about using fibreglass tape (RC model) to glass
over the gap between the canopy and windows. I did a bit of shopping today
and was only able to find tape that was of 6 oz weight. For this
application I was thinking that a very light cloth would be appropriate.
Can one of the f/g experts shine some light on what weight of glass I should
use. ACS has 1.45 oz "deck" cloth. Would this be appropriate? How may
layers should I use...
Inquiring minds need to know.
Les
#40643
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Glassing Window Transition |
Glassing Window TransitionLes, et. al.
I commented on the recent post that I had used one layer of the light
weight RC fiberglass tape around the windows. I have some minor
cracking now with 430 hours.
I don=99t think the light tape has much strength and if it touched
at all in the sanding filling process it is probably further weakened.
The problem with using heavier or more layers of fiberglass is the build
up that would be difficult to contour down to the level of the window
and then back into the natural curve of the top. I spent a lot of time
on this area; it is tricky to get it to look right if one starts
building up the area of the seam.
$.02 worth.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 430 hours
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Glassing Window Transition |
Glassing Window TransitionI put two layers of thick glass around mine
after others had cracking around the windows from using rc glass. It
took me a long time to contour mine and ready it for paint. The paint
shop I took it to sanded down most of my work and the windows started to
show the seams after 50 hours. I took mine back to the paint shop and
made them take off the paint and build back up the seams around the
windows. They re-sprayed it and now I think it will remain uncracked.
----- Original Message -----
From: Dick & Vicki Sipp
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 5:38 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glassing Window Transition
Les, et. al.
I commented on the recent post that I had used one layer of the light
weight RC fiberglass tape around the windows. I have some minor
cracking now with 430 hours.
I don=99t think the light tape has much strength and if it
touched at all in the sanding filling process it is probably further
weakened. The problem with using heavier or more layers of fiberglass
is the build up that would be difficult to contour down to the level of
the window and then back into the natural curve of the top. I spent a
lot of time on this area; it is tricky to get it to look right if one
starts building up the area of the seam.
$.02 worth.
Dick Sipp
N110DV 430 hours
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks |
One other thing to consider... I think when it comes time to buy new tires,
almost all replacements (Goodyear Flt Custom III's for example) are larger
than the original Van's supplied tire..... changes the clearance.- Witho
ut enough clearance, all you need is a low tire, or a rather big bounce, an
d you now have another project.=0ADon McDonald=0A470 Hours and climbing.=0A
=0A=0A________________________________=0A From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froeh
lich@verizon.net>=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com =0ASent: Saturday, August 1
1, 2012 12:14 PM=0ASubject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel fairing breaks=0A
n.net>=0A=0AYep - mine ripped the same way while wrestling with it on fit u
p.- Put two=0Alayers of carbon fiber on the inside, ground out what was l
eft of the crack,=0Afilled the void with flox, sanded smooth and then a cou
ple of layers of=0Aglass on the outside.- Finish with mico.=0A=0ACarl=0A3
3.6 hours - first O2 flight earlier today. =0A=0A-----Original Message-----
=0AFrom: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com=0A[mailto:owner-rv10-list-ser
ver@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus=0ASent: Saturday, August 11,
2012 10:49 AM=0ATo: rv10-list@matronics.com=0ASubject: Re: RV10-List: Nose
=0A--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>=0A=0AI believe the instructions tell yo
u to reinforce the opening with 2-3 layers=0Aof glass.- I reinforced mine
with carbon fiber.- =0A=0AMight want to double check and make sure you h
ave ample clearance to the=0Awheel.- I believe I have 3/4" all around..
=0A=0A-Mine Kraus=0ARV-10 Flying =0A=0ASent from my iPhone=0A=0AOn Aug 11,
2012, at 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:=0A=0A> --> RV10
-List message posted by: Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net>=0A> =0A> After r
eturning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my RV-10=0Anose whe
el fairing.- When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in this photo:=0A>
=0A> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg=0A> =0A> I was surpr
ised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started.=0AWith very litt
le force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two=0Apieces.=0A> =0A>
I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of fiberglass
=0Aand epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire circumference o
f=0Athe fairing forward of the bulkhead.- I also added a 1" wide reinfor
cement=0Aaround the opening for the wheel:=0A> =0A> https://dl.dropbox.com/
u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg=0A> =0A> I recommend builders consider adding re
inforcement in this area of the=0Afairing during construction.=0A> =0A> --
=0A> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)=0A> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold=0A>
RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs=0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A> =0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
=============
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks |
That can be avoided by not buying the most expensive tire on the
market. One can get equal life out of recaps, and they are more likely
to meet the standard tire size. Or you can buy Condors if you prefer
new, and they will be significantly lighter and slimmer than the FC
III, which is the biggest and heaviest tire for a given nominal size
you will find on the market.
On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 7:49 PM, Don McDonald
<building_partner@yahoo.com> wrote:
> One other thing to consider... I think when it comes time to buy new tires,
> almost all replacements (Goodyear Flt Custom III's for example) are larger
> than the original Van's supplied tire..... changes the clearance. Without
> enough clearance, all you need is a low tire, or a rather big bounce, and
> you now have another project.
> Don McDonald
> 470 Hours and climbing.
>
> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 12:14 PM
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel fairing breaks
>
> <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>
> Yep - mine ripped the same way while wrestling with it on fit up. Put two
> layers of carbon fiber on the inside, ground out what was left of the crack,
> filled the void with flox, sanded smooth and then a couple of layers of
> glass on the outside. Finish with mico.
>
> Carl
> 33.6 hours - first O2 flight earlier today.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 10:49 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel fairing breaks
>
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> I believe the instructions tell you to reinforce the opening with 2-3 layers
> of glass. I reinforced mine with carbon fiber.
>
> Might want to double check and make sure you have ample clearance to the
> wheel. I believe I have 3/4" all around..
>
> -Mine Kraus
> RV-10 Flying
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 11, 2012, at 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my RV-10
> nose wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in this photo:
>>
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
>>
>> I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started.
> With very little force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two
> pieces.
>>
>> I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of fiberglass
> and epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire circumference of
> the fairing forward of the bulkhead. I also added a 1" wide reinforcement
> around the opening for the wheel:
>>
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
>>
>> I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of the
> fairing during construction.
>>
>> --
>> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
>> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
>> RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
> t" - List Contribution Web Site -
>
>
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