Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:07 AM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Alan Mekler MD)
2. 04:33 AM - Re: Glassing Window Transition (Bob Leffler)
3. 06:37 AM - Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket (woxofswa)
4. 07:14 AM - Re: Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket (Carl Froehlich)
5. 07:28 AM - Re: Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket (Kelly McMullen)
6. 09:00 AM - Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks (Bill Watson)
7. 09:25 AM - Re: Glassing Window Transition (AirMike)
8. 09:33 AM - Re: Proxy effort @ EAA annual meeting (AirMike)
9. 11:49 AM - Re: Glassing Window Transition (Ron B.)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks |
Yes a low tire pressure caused my fairing to crack.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 11, 2012, at 11:38 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> That can be avoided by not buying the most expensive tire on the
> market. One can get equal life out of recaps, and they are more likely
> to meet the standard tire size. Or you can buy Condors if you prefer
> new, and they will be significantly lighter and slimmer than the FC
> III, which is the biggest and heaviest tire for a given nominal size
> you will find on the market.
>
> On Sat, Aug 11, 2012 at 7:49 PM, Don McDonald
> <building_partner@yahoo.com> wrote:
>> One other thing to consider... I think when it comes time to buy new tires,
>> almost all replacements (Goodyear Flt Custom III's for example) are larger
>> than the original Van's supplied tire..... changes the clearance. Without
>> enough clearance, all you need is a low tire, or a rather big bounce, and
>> you now have another project.
>> Don McDonald
>> 470 Hours and climbing.
>>
>> From: Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 12:14 PM
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Nose wheel fairing breaks
>>
>> <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>>
>> Yep - mine ripped the same way while wrestling with it on fit up. Put two
>> layers of carbon fiber on the inside, ground out what was left of the crack,
>> filled the void with flox, sanded smooth and then a couple of layers of
>> glass on the outside. Finish with mico.
>>
>> Carl
>> 33.6 hours - first O2 flight earlier today.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
>> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 10:49 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Nose wheel fairing breaks
>>
>> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> I believe the instructions tell you to reinforce the opening with 2-3 layers
>> of glass. I reinforced mine with carbon fiber.
>>
>> Might want to double check and make sure you have ample clearance to the
>> wheel. I believe I have 3/4" all around..
>>
>> -Mine Kraus
>> RV-10 Flying
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Aug 11, 2012, at 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my RV-10
>> nose wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown in this photo:
>>>
>>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
>>>
>>> I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip started.
>> With very little force I could have ripped the whole fairing into two
>> pieces.
>>>
>>> I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of fiberglass
>> and epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire circumference of
>> the fairing forward of the bulkhead. I also added a 1" wide reinforcement
>> around the opening for the wheel:
>>>
>>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
>>>
>>> I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of the
>> fairing during construction.
>>>
>>> --
>>> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
>>> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
>>> RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>> t" - List Contribution Web Site -
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Glassing Window Transition |
I did the same as Sean. Dan Horton has a good write up on VAF on how to co
ntour the transition with several layers of tape. That process works well.
The one recommendation I would have would be to use different colors of ta
pe so that you can better see when you sand through the top layer.
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 11, 2012, at 7:54 PM, "Seano" <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
> I put two layers of thick glass around mine after others had cracking arou
nd the windows from using rc glass. It took me a long time to contour mine a
nd ready it for paint. The paint shop I took it to sanded down most of my w
ork and the windows started to show the seams after 50 hours. I took mine b
ack to the paint shop and made them take off the paint and build back up the
seams around the windows. They re-sprayed it and now I think it will remai
n uncracked.
>
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Dick & Vicki Sipp
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Saturday, August 11, 2012 5:38 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Glassing Window Transition
>
> Les, et. al.
>
> I commented on the recent post that I had used one layer of the light weig
ht RC fiberglass tape around the windows. I have some minor cracking now wi
th 430 hours.
> I don=99t think the light tape has much strength and if it touched a
t all in the sanding filling process it is probably further weakened. The p
roblem with using heavier or more layers of fiberglass is the build up that w
ould be difficult to contour down to the level of the window and then back i
nto the natural curve of the top. I spent a lot of time on this area; it is
tricky to get it to look right if one starts building up the area of the se
am.
>
> $.02 worth.
>
> Dick Sipp
> N110DV 430 hours
>
>
>
>
>
> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics
.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> href="http://forums.matronics.com">http://forums.matronics.com
> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket |
To be honest, I don't see what that cross bracket accomplishes. Both connecting
points are already affixed to the engine case, either directly in the case of
the starter or by the U-bracket in the case of the alternator. I guess it adds
a bit of lateral strain relief on the alternator bracket, but of that bracket
weren't beefy enough for that job, you'd be in trouble regardless.
I have it because it all fits, but I'm wondering if that cross brace is even necessary.
What am I missing?[/b]
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done, finishing
kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380735#380735
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket |
Assuming you connect your engine ground to the starter (the largest load
should get the best ground) with the same #2 or #4 wire you used for starter
power, this bracket between the alternator and starter provides a good
ground scheme for the alternator. If the bracket does not fit, replacing it
with a short piece of #6 wire with appropriate size ring terminals will
provide the needed alternator ground. The engine ground will be on this
same attach point as the alternator bracket (or alternator ground wire).
Considering the current flow, I don't view the engine case (and the various
bolts and brackets) to be adequate ground for either the alternator or
starter.
Carl
RV-10 (33 hours)
RV-8A (800 hours)
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 9:37 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket
To be honest, I don't see what that cross bracket accomplishes. Both
connecting points are already affixed to the engine case, either directly in
the case of the starter or by the U-bracket in the case of the alternator.
I guess it adds a bit of lateral strain relief on the alternator bracket,
but of that bracket weren't beefy enough for that job, you'd be in trouble
regardless.
I have it because it all fits, but I'm wondering if that cross brace is even
necessary. What am I missing?[/b]
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done,
finishing kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380735#380735
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket |
Hmm,
I don't see that bracket as adding anything to ground path. The other
attach points to the engine case accomplish that.
If you look at any certified aircraft, neither the starter nor the
alternator have individual grounding cables. The engine case is a big
hunk of aluminum. Aluminum is an excellent electrical conductor.The
ground is normally connected to one of the sump bolts near the rear of
the engine, then directly to the firewall. I don't know why Vans
prefers a couple straps around the engine mounts, when a single
braided cable from the case to the firewall does an equally good job
with less hassle. Multiple ground paths are not desirable, giving
ground loop opportunities.
The bracket strap is there for rigidity between the starter and
alternator. Alternators want to vibrate a lot. If you have ever seen
one that a bolt got loose on, you will see what I mean. A loose bolt
will wallow out the hole in the alternator and its bracket
substantially in just a few hours of operation.
Kelly
On Sun, Aug 12, 2012 at 7:14 AM, Carl Froehlich
<carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Assuming you connect your engine ground to the starter (the largest load
> should get the best ground) with the same #2 or #4 wire you used for starter
> power, this bracket between the alternator and starter provides a good
> ground scheme for the alternator. If the bracket does not fit, replacing it
> with a short piece of #6 wire with appropriate size ring terminals will
> provide the needed alternator ground. The engine ground will be on this
> same attach point as the alternator bracket (or alternator ground wire).
>
> Considering the current flow, I don't view the engine case (and the various
> bolts and brackets) to be adequate ground for either the alternator or
> starter.
>
> Carl
> RV-10 (33 hours)
> RV-8A (800 hours)
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of woxofswa
> Sent: Sunday, August 12, 2012 9:37 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Alternator to Starter Fixing Bracket
>
>
> To be honest, I don't see what that cross bracket accomplishes. Both
> connecting points are already affixed to the engine case, either directly in
> the case of the starter or by the U-bracket in the case of the alternator.
> I guess it adds a bit of lateral strain relief on the alternator bracket,
> but of that bracket weren't beefy enough for that job, you'd be in trouble
> regardless.
>
> I have it because it all fits, but I'm wondering if that cross brace is even
> necessary. What am I missing?[/b]
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse in mostly done,
> finishing kit in progress.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380735#380735
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Nose wheel fairing breaks |
Some data points:
- distance from lower bracket holes and edge of wheel cutout - 1 3/8"
- distance from rear edge of wheel cutout and bulkhead - 1/2"
Bill
On 8/11/2012 5:17 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> I didn't reinforce mine. Haven't had any breakage yet operating out
> of a relatively rough grass strip.
>
> I did make it a point to cut them back further than I wanted to...
> then a bit more. Since I have them off the plane right now, I may try
> to compare with your pics to see if I can compare them.
>
> Reinforcement sounds like a good thing.
>
> Bill "finishing up my first condition inspection" Watson
>
> On 8/11/2012 10:23 AM, Tim Lewis wrote:
>>
>> After returning home from OSH, I noticed a chunck missing from my
>> RV-10 nose wheel fairing. When flexed, the fairing ripped as shown
>> in this photo:
>>
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%201.jpg
>>
>> I was surprised at how fragile the fairing was once that rip
>> started. With very little force I could have ripped the whole
>> fairing into two pieces.
>>
>> I patched the missing chunk and rip, then added a few layers of
>> fiberglass and epoxy resin, about 5" wide, to strengthen the entire
>> circumference of the fairing forward of the bulkhead. I also added
>> a 1" wide reinforcement around the opening for the wheel:
>>
>> https://dl.dropbox.com/u/93114308/fairing%202.jpg
>>
>> I recommend builders consider adding reinforcement in this area of
>> the fairing during construction.
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Glassing Window Transition |
I used a lot of microbaloons in my epoxy/tape mix. Holding up well after (150hrs)
3 years.
--------
See you OSH '12
Q/B - flying 2 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380749#380749
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Proxy effort @ EAA annual meeting |
I am waiting for the follow up post from Phill. Kuddos for your effort. I regret
that I did not get my proxy to you, I will do better next year with a bunch
of proxys. This is an important effort. EAA is an awesome organization, but it
must be governed from the grass roots. Paul & Tom did a pretty good job and R.H.
obviously wants to put his stamp on the operation, provided that it is not
stamping on our fingers. Lets keep the pressure up and it will have an effect.
R.H. and the board need to know where their power derives from!
AOPA is hopeless, but EAA is a different bird, and we can direct it's course.
--------
See you OSH '12
Q/B - flying 2 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380751#380751
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Glassing Window Transition |
Exact same experience as Dick Sipp only with less hrs. I would use heavier cloth
and make sure I did not sand it off.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=380756#380756
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