Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:06 AM - Re: Matco nose wheel tire and tube (bill.peyton)
2. 10:09 AM - Re: Re: Matco nose wheel tire and tube (Bill Watson)
3. 01:42 PM - Inlet Ring Size (Robin Marks)
4. 02:14 PM - Re: Inlet Ring Size (Ben Westfall)
5. 02:55 PM - Re: Inlet Ring Size (Robin Marks)
6. 03:15 PM - Re: Re: Matco nose wheel tire and tube (Tim Olson)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Matco nose wheel tire and tube |
Rick,
The Matco Axle is need to allow you to properly set the bearing pre-load and to
keep the bearings from spinning against the axle. With the Matco axle you adjust
the bearing tension independently of the axle bolt. I believe someone else
also has a solution out there which replaces the spacers that Vans supplies
with ones that will properly contact the inside race of the wheel bearing to
allow pre-load of the bearing. The reports have been that using all the stock
Vans supplied parts will eventually allow the bearing to spin around the axle
and wear out the axle and the spacers.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382493#382493
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Matco nose wheel tire and tube |
Yes, that's an important point, you do need the Matco axle no matter what.
To say it another way and reinforce Wayne's experience, I have the Matco
axle but all the wheels and tires are stock from Vans. After 1 year of
flying, it all works fine. No interference of stems or anything (but
things are close). They hold air better than whatever I had on my
Maule. So IF you already have the stock wheels and tires, it works
fine, but the Matco axle fixes a problem that seems to be unavoidable
otherwise.
Bill
On 9/6/2012 12:28 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
> You do need the Matco axle. The Van's axle has shown problems that
> cause nose fork wear. If you are ordering from them anyway, why not
> get the right wheel, that needs NO modification and costs the same as
> Release Date: 09/05/12
Message 3
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To continue our discussion of inlet ring size relative to engine cooling wh
en I was last home I photographed the SJ inlet rings with the rings designe
d by Alan in Watsonville. Alan has had success in cooling by increasing the
opening to his James cowl. I will not speak further about Alan's set up be
cause I really don't know the details other than he does beautiful fibergla
ss work. My point is look at how substantially different the two rings are
in size. Yes I know, I need to clean the bugs off my nose.
Robin
[Description: C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\IMG_20120901_111636.jpg]
[Description: C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\IMG_20120901_111701.jpg]
[Description: C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\IMG_20120901_111622.jpg][Description:
C:\Users\Robin\Desktop\Abby Flight\Abby Flight to LA 9-2012.jpg]
Message 4
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Robin,
Two things.
1) That larger ring looks at least as big if not more than the stock van's
cowl J.
2) I'm wondering if you may be experiencing inlet drag/interference that is
causing a blockage to the inlet flows. The slick/successful James Cowl's
have seen always seem to have more of a venturi style inlet shape that
gradually narrows then opens back up.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2012 1:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Inlet Ring Size
To continue our discussion of inlet ring size relative to engine cooling
when I was last home I photographed the SJ inlet rings with the rings
designed by Alan in Watsonville. Alan has had success in cooling by
increasing the opening to his James cowl. I will not speak further about
Alan's set up because I really don't know the details other than he does
beautiful fiberglass work. My point is look at how substantially different
the two rings are in size. Yes I know, I need to clean the bugs off my nose.
Robin
Message 5
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I do not know about #1 but I suspect the rings are a bit larger than the Va
ns standard cowl. As far as #2 I have a James cowl on my 8A and they do not
have the same issues as the -10 cowl. I don't think I would call the 4 cyl
inder James cowl "venturi" style as they really don't gradually narrow and
the transition back is a function of how the builder chooses to make that t
ransition. With so many variations on the 4 cylinder world and few problems
I tend to lean towards overall size opening being the limiting factor.
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2012 2:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Inlet Ring Size
Robin,
Two things...
1) That larger ring looks at least as big if not more than the stock van's
cowl :).
2) I'm wondering if you may be experiencing inlet drag/interference that is
causing a blockage to the inlet flows. The slick/successful James Cowl's
have seen always seem to have more of a venturi style inlet shape that grad
ually narrows then opens back up.
-Ben
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com<mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@ma
tronics.com> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]<mailto:[mailto:o
wner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com]> On Behalf Of Robin Marks
Sent: Thursday, September 06, 2012 1:41 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Inlet Ring Size
To continue our discussion of inlet ring size relative to engine cooling wh
en I was last home I photographed the SJ inlet rings with the rings designe
d by Alan in Watsonville. Alan has had success in cooling by increasing the
opening to his James cowl. I will not speak further about Alan's set up be
cause I really don't know the details other than he does beautiful fibergla
ss work. My point is look at how substantially different the two rings are
in size. Yes I know, I need to clean the bugs off my nose.
Robin
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Matco nose wheel tire and tube |
My RV-10 was strictly stock at first. The stem was close on the
front wheel to fork.
Then my forks got wrecked with the original axle spacers.
Then I got the Matco Axle and it was still good...no stem
clearance issue although it was still close.
My mains were OK too...no big problems.
Then I got a new nose tire and tube. NOW I had a stem
clearance issue. THEN I ordered the new Matco wheel and new
tube. NOW I have no clearance issue.
So, while all may be well with stock, over time as you change
tubes you may run into other issues until you finally get
the combination that has no issues.
Tim Olson - RV-10 N104CD
do not archive
On 9/6/2012 12:08 PM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Yes, that's an important point, you do need the Matco axle no matter what.
>
> To say it another way and reinforce Wayne's experience, I have the Matco
> axle but all the wheels and tires are stock from Vans. After 1 year of
> flying, it all works fine. No interference of stems or anything (but
> things are close). They hold air better than whatever I had on my
> Maule. So IF you already have the stock wheels and tires, it works
> fine, but the Matco axle fixes a problem that seems to be unavoidable
> otherwise.
>
> Bill
>
> On 9/6/2012 12:28 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote:
>> You do need the Matco axle. The Van's axle has shown problems that
>> cause nose fork wear. If you are ordering from them anyway, why not
>> get the right wheel, that needs NO modification and costs the same as
>> Release Date: 09/05/12
>
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