Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 10:25 AM - Garmin 696 XM music question (Michael Kraus)
2. 11:09 AM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Patrick Thyssen)
3. 11:17 AM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Rene)
4. 11:27 AM - Re: Vinyl (Tim Lewis)
5. 11:37 AM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Richard McBride)
6. 11:55 AM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Michael Kraus)
7. 12:01 PM - Re: Vinyl (Bob Kaufmann)
8. 12:11 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Richard McBride)
9. 12:12 PM - RV10 door seals (egodfrey@ameritech.net)
10. 12:57 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Richard McBride)
11. 01:03 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Carl Froehlich)
12. 01:07 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Dave Saylor)
13. 01:31 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Alan Mekler MD)
14. 01:35 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (John Jessen)
15. 03:31 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (rv10flyer)
16. 04:11 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Carl Froehlich)
17. 04:32 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Seano)
18. 04:33 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Alan Mekler MD)
19. 04:39 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Dave Saylor)
20. 04:42 PM - Re: Brake Pads? (Strasnuts)
21. 05:20 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Bob Turner)
22. 05:25 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Bob Leffler)
23. 05:57 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Robin Marks)
24. 06:31 PM - Re: Garmin 696 XM music question (Michael Kraus)
25. 06:54 PM - Re: RV10 door seals (Rene)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Garmin 696 XM music question |
I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough
to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15
audio panel.
What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any ideas?
I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere
and it would increase the output??
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
KitFox SS7 building
RV-10 Built and Flying
RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
Sent from my iPad
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
I have the same in my c310 I'll look it up tomorrow and check what I can.
Patrick Thyssen
N15pt
Down waiting on new engine
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:24 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough
to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15
audio panel.
>
> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere
and it would increase the output??
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> KitFox SS7 building
> RV-10 Built and Flying
> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Garmin 696 XM music question |
Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They
are battery operated.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question
--> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud
enough to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an
Apollo SL-15 audio panel.
What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something
somewhere and it would increase the output??
Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
-Mike Kraus
KitFox SS7 building
RV-10 Built and Flying
RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
Sent from my iPad
Message 4
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I bought a relatively inexpensive vinyl cutting machine from
UScutter.com, and used it to cut the vinyl for N number, stripes, door
label, fuel label, "Experimental" label, etc. on my RV-10. I used
12-year vinyl (Oracal). I designed/laid out the graphics with the free
Inkscape program.
Here's a photo somebody took of me landing at Airventure '11:
http://www.airport-data.com/aircraft/photo/649281.html
Results were generally good. Observations/lessons learned:
- Using vinyl allowed me to paint the airplane all white (in the
basement, before flight) without having to mask for additional colors,
designs, letters, etc.
- Vinyl works fine on surfaces parallel to air flow
- When dings happen, vinyl is pretty easy to patch
- Prop-driven rain is hard on the portion of the vinyl that faces the
airflow (top of vertical stabilizer). Especially hard hit is the seam
where the fiberglass VS tip intersects the aluminum top of VS. If I had
it to do over again I wouldn't wrap vinyl around the front of the VS
- It's more fun to fly than to apply graphics -- I never did finish the
vinyl graphics on the copilot side, nor a planned swoosh on the pilot side.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
Bob Kaufmann said the following on 9/11/2012 3:25 PM:
>
> Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work?
>
> Bob K
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
> On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" <aaa@pacifier.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info.
>>
>> I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com after
discussing it with Abby.
>>
>> --------
>> Building RV10.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required a minor
modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My local
avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost.
Rick McBride
RV-6 finished '92 sold '97
RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing
RV-10 started 9/12
On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They
> are battery operated.
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question
>
> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>
> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud
> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an
> Apollo SL-15 audio panel.
>
> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something
> somewhere and it would increase the output??
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> KitFox SS7 building
> RV-10 Built and Flying
> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
That's what I'm looking for... What was the mod???
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:35 PM, Richard McBride <rick.mcbride@me.com> wrote:
>
> I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required a
minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My
local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost.
>
> Rick McBride
> RV-6 finished '92 sold '97
> RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing
> RV-10 started 9/12
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They
>> are battery operated.
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question
>>
>> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>
>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud
>> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an
>> Apollo SL-15 audio panel.
>>
>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
>> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something
>> somewhere and it would increase the output??
>>
>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> -Mike Kraus
>> KitFox SS7 building
>> RV-10 Built and Flying
>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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Thanks questions answered.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 16, 2012, at 12:26 PM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I bought a relatively inexpensive vinyl cutting machine from UScutter.com, and
used it to cut the vinyl for N number, stripes, door label, fuel label, "Experimental"
label, etc. on my RV-10. I used 12-year vinyl (Oracal). I designed/laid
out the graphics with the free Inkscape program.
>
> Here's a photo somebody took of me landing at Airventure '11: http://www.airport-data.com/aircraft/photo/649281.html
>
> Results were generally good. Observations/lessons learned:
> - Using vinyl allowed me to paint the airplane all white (in the basement, before
flight) without having to mask for additional colors, designs, letters, etc.
> - Vinyl works fine on surfaces parallel to air flow
> - When dings happen, vinyl is pretty easy to patch
> - Prop-driven rain is hard on the portion of the vinyl that faces the airflow
(top of vertical stabilizer). Especially hard hit is the seam where the fiberglass
VS tip intersects the aluminum top of VS. If I had it to do over again
I wouldn't wrap vinyl around the front of the VS
> - It's more fun to fly than to apply graphics -- I never did finish the vinyl
graphics on the copilot side, nor a planned swoosh on the pilot side.
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 300 hrs
>
> Bob Kaufmann said the following on 9/11/2012 3:25 PM:
>>
>> Has anyone used any vinyl artwork and how well does it work?
>>
>> Bob K
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>> On Sep 11, 2012, at 9:10 AM, "duawil" <aaa@pacifier.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Thanks everyone for all the suggestions/info.
>>>
>>> I am going ahead with the install of what I got from Flyboyaccessories.com
after discussing it with Abby.
>>>
>>> --------
>>> Building RV10.
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> Read this topic online here:
>>>
>>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=382878#382878
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
Let me do some research. The mod instructions came with the unit if I recall.
I need to look through my files.
Rick
On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:54 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
> That's what I'm looking for... What was the mod???
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:35 PM, Richard McBride <rick.mcbride@me.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required
a minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My
local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost.
>>
>> Rick McBride
>> RV-6 finished '92 sold '97
>> RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing
>> RV-10 started 9/12
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They
>>> are battery operated.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question
>>>
>>> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud
>>> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an
>>> Apollo SL-15 audio panel.
>>>
>>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
>>> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something
>>> somewhere and it would increase the output??
>>>
>>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>> KitFox SS7 building
>>> RV-10 Built and Flying
>>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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Has anyone installed the door seals from
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what
is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which
seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't
impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also,
although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have
some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening.
Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals
from rvtraining. Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
The only details I could find are in the installation manual. For the Garmin 340
panel there were two mods (2 & 5) that both claim to boost the music audio.
The manual doesn't provide any details on either mod. As I mentioned, my local
shop did the work. I have no idea if these type of mods apply to your Apollo.
A call to your local avionics shop might help. Sorry I can't be of any more
help.
Rick
On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:54 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
> That's what I'm looking for... What was the mod???
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:35 PM, Richard McBride <rick.mcbride@me.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> I can't speak for the Apollo audio panel but my Garmin audio panel required
a minor modification to increase the XM volume out of my 396 and 496 units. My
local avionics shop did the mod for a minimal cost.
>>
>> Rick McBride
>> RV-6 finished '92 sold '97
>> RV-8 finished '04 630 hours and climbing
>> RV-10 started 9/12
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 2:16 PM, Rene <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Radio shack sells audio amplifiers.....I think they are around $20. They
>>> are battery operated.
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Kraus
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 11:25 AM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: RV10-List: Garmin 696 XM music question
>>>
>>> --> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
>>>
>>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud
>>> enough to hear consistentl. I have it going into the music input of an
>>> Apollo SL-15 audio panel.
>>>
>>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
>>> ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something
>>> somewhere and it would increase the output??
>>>
>>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>> KitFox SS7 building
>>> RV-10 Built and Flying
>>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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|
I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door.
The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I filled in
the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) so that the seal
lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the seal goes on a just a
couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite adequate. 44 hours (and countless
door opening and closing) and it works well.
Part number: 93085K11
http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
$11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much and
the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not enough to
deform the door.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
egodfrey@ameritech.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
--> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
Has anyone installed the door seals from
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is
your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to
go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with
the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of
the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about
sanding away so much of the door opening.
Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from
rvtraining. Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
Mike,
Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list.
This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps.
Message: #38783
From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
Subject: 496 Audio
Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the
Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to
allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into
unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing,
but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes,
data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to
drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V
adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made
in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm
input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only
audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio
jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all
the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the
power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio
from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well,
it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter
plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The
speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of
the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack
inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the
power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is
nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the
audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain
warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming
transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it
interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to
figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord
to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000
ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will
work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way
Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus
<n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
>
> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough
to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15
audio panel.
>
> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere
and it would increase the output??
>
> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>
> -Mike Kraus
> KitFox SS7 building
> RV-10 Built and Flying
> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 door seals |
Carl,
My door only leaks at the hinge.
Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge?
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door.
> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I filled in
> the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV) so that the seal
> lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the seal goes on a just a
> couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite adequate. 44 hours (and countless
> door opening and closing) and it works well.
>
> Part number: 93085K11
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
>
> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much and
> the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not enough to
> deform the door.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> egodfrey@ameritech.net
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
> To: RV-10 List
> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>
> --> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
>
> Has anyone installed the door seals from
> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is
> your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to
> go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with
> the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of
> the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about
> sanding away so much of the door opening.
> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from
> rvtraining. Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
> <door seal.jpg>
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
Dave, did you ever get it to work?
On Sep 16, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Mike,
>
> Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list.
> This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps.
>
> Message: #38783
> From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
> Subject: 496 Audio
> Date: Nov 01, 2007
>
> Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the
> Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to
> allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into
> unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing,
> but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes,
> data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to
> drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V
> adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made
> in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm
> input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only
> audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio
> jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all
> the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the
> power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio
> from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well,
> it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter
> plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The
> speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of
> the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack
> inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the
> power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is
> nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the
> audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain
> warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming
> transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it
> interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to
> figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord
> to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000
> ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will
> work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way
> Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus
> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>>
>>
>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough
to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo SL-15
audio panel.
>>
>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere
and it would increase the output??
>>
>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>
>> -Mike Kraus
>> KitFox SS7 building
>> RV-10 Built and Flying
>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>>
>> Sent from my iPad
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: RV10 door seals |
Just cut out some .032" or thicker pieces that fit the hinge openings perfectly.
Proseal in for easy removal later. Paint. You can do that with McMaster Carr
seals like I did or those type in the pic. Mine leak zero.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383261#383261
Message 16
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|
Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor
knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with
the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place.
The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes
pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on
the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint
it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is
the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the
side that faces out.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
Carl,
My door only leaks at the hinge.
Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge?
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
wrote:
> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door.
> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I
> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV)
> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the
> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite
> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works
well.
>
> Part number: 93085K11
> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
>
> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much
> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not
> enough to deform the door.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
> egodfrey@ameritech.net
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
> To: RV-10 List
> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>
> --> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
>
> Has anyone installed the door seals from
> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so,
> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to
> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I
> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place.
> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I
> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening.
> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals
> from rvtraining. Thanks.
>
> Ed Godfrey
> 40717
>
>
>
>
> <door seal.jpg>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 door seals |
Here is mine with the McmasterCarr seal 1120A311 No leaks at all. I used
nutplates for the hinges even though you could still use nuts.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 5:11 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
> <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>
> Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor
> knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with
> the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place.
>
> The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes
> pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on
> the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint
> it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is
> the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the
> side that faces out.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>
>
> Carl,
> My door only leaks at the hinge.
> Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge?
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the
>> door.
>> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I
>> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV)
>> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the
>> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite
>> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works
> well.
>>
>> Part number: 93085K11
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
>>
>> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much
>> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not
>> enough to deform the door.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> egodfrey@ameritech.net
>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
>> To: RV-10 List
>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>>
>> --> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
>>
>> Has anyone installed the door seals from
>> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so,
>> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to
>> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I
>> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place.
>> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I
>> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening.
>> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals
>> from rvtraining. Thanks.
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>> 40717
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <door seal.jpg>
>
>
>
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 door seals |
Carl,
Thanks.
My plane is 3 years old and i dont't know what kind of seal it has(it is not on
the door) cold air comesvin at the hinge site otherwise it is a nice fit.
Not sure whether i should replace the whole seal or just do something at the hinge.
Alan
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:11 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor
> knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with
> the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place.
>
> The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes
> pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on
> the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint
> it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is
> the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the
> side that faces out.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>
>
> Carl,
> My door only leaks at the hinge.
> Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge?
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
> wrote:
>
>> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door.
>> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I
>> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV)
>> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the
>> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite
>> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works
> well.
>>
>> Part number: 93085K11
>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
>>
>> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much
>> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not
>> enough to deform the door.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>> egodfrey@ameritech.net
>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
>> To: RV-10 List
>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>>
>> --> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
>>
>> Has anyone installed the door seals from
>> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so,
>> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to
>> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I
>> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place.
>> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I
>> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening.
>> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals
>> from rvtraining. Thanks.
>>
>> Ed Godfrey
>> 40717
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> <door seal.jpg>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
Dang, I didn't mean to leave you in suspense... I shoulda read it again!
We did get it working, not with a transformer but by using just the
voice + and letting it ground via the "regular" ground, not "voice -".
The rational was that the voice +/- was meant to drive a speaker so
"voice -" is actually a signal opposite the hi side, not just zero.
I'm in a little over my head but I'm sure some audio folks can
describe it better.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 1:35 PM, John Jessen <n212pj@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dave, did you ever get it to work?
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
wrote:
>
>>
>> Mike,
>>
>> Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list.
>> This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps.
>>
>> Message: #38783
>> From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
>> Subject: 496 Audio
>> Date: Nov 01, 2007
>>
>> Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the
>> Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to
>> allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into
>> unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing,
>> but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes,
>> data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to
>> drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V
>> adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made
>> in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm
>> input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only
>> audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio
>> jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all
>> the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the
>> power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio
>> from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well,
>> it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter
>> plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The
>> speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of
>> the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack
>> inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the
>> power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is
>> nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the
>> audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain
>> warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming
>> transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it
>> interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to
>> figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord
>> to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000
>> ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will
>> work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way
>> Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>>
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus
>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>>>
>>>
>>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough
to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo
SL-15 audio panel.
>>>
>>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something somewhere
and it would increase the output??
>>>
>>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>>
>>> -Mike Kraus
>>> KitFox SS7 building
>>> RV-10 Built and Flying
>>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 20
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|
Update on brake pads.
I just ordered four more to have on hand from Aircraft Spruce. They came a week
later. They are Cleveland liners and they come with rivets. The part number
is 66-112. You have to actually search for this number instead of the description.
Also, you have to go to the Cleveland part area and choose it from the
drop down menu. Expensive though at 21.75 a pad with rivets.
Here is a link
http://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/lgpages/cleve_brklining.php
--------
40936
RV-10 SB N801VR Flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383272#383272
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
The radio shack transformer should work okay. Cut the center tap off. Of course
you'll need two for stereo.
Early Garmin 340 panels didn't have sufficient gain for the usual audio sources,
whether ipad, CD, xm, etc. Garmin had a fix which required you to go to a dealer,
where they soldered in one or two new resistors to increase the gain. Later
340 panels brought the fix out to a pin in the back, ground it to increase
the gain. The reason it's an option is that along with the higher gain comes
more noise. It is really poor engineering when you can hear electronic noise in
an airplane!
I cannot comment on later Garmin panels, nor the Apollo/UPS.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=383273#383273
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 door seals |
Most people fiberglass over the opening to make it flush with the door. I just
used a piece of scrap fiberglass, cut it to size, epoxied it in place, then
a little micro to make things smooth. This gives a nice surface for any type
of seal you choose.
Bob
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:32 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote:
>
> Carl,
> Thanks.
> My plane is 3 years old and i dont't know what kind of seal it has(it is not
on the door) cold air comesvin at the hinge site otherwise it is a nice fit.
> Not sure whether i should replace the whole seal or just do something at the
hinge.
> Alan
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:11 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor
>> knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with
>> the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place.
>>
>> The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes
>> pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on
>> the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint
>> it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is
>> the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the
>> side that faces out.
>>
>> Carl
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>>
>>
>> Carl,
>> My door only leaks at the hinge.
>> Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge?
>> Alan
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door.
>>> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I
>>> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV)
>>> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the
>>> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite
>>> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works
>> well.
>>>
>>> Part number: 93085K11
>>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
>>>
>>> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much
>>> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not
>>> enough to deform the door.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>> egodfrey@ameritech.net
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
>>> To: RV-10 List
>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>>>
>>> --> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
>>>
>>> Has anyone installed the door seals from
>>> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so,
>>> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to
>>> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I
>>> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place.
>>> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I
>>> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening.
>>> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals
>>> from rvtraining. Thanks.
>>>
>>> Ed Godfrey
>>> 40717
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> <door seal.jpg>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | Re: RV10 door seals |
Here is our fiberglass bridge.
http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-10/Images/Doors/Door_(14).jpg
Robin
Sent from the new iPad
On Sep 16, 2012, at 5:30 PM, "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>
> Most people fiberglass over the opening to make it flush with the door. I just
used a piece of scrap fiberglass, cut it to size, epoxied it in place, then
a little micro to make things smooth. This gives a nice surface for any type
of seal you choose.
>
> Bob
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:32 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Carl,
>> Thanks.
>> My plane is 3 years old and i dont't know what kind of seal it has(it is not
on the door) cold air comesvin at the hinge site otherwise it is a nice fit.
>> Not sure whether i should replace the whole seal or just do something at the
hinge.
>> Alan
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:11 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Nothing special. Just rigid foam insulation material carved with a razor
>>> knife to fill up the hinge area so that the top of the foam was flush with
>>> the inside of the door. I used RTV to glue these into place.
>>>
>>> The hardest part was finding this material in black instead of the Lowes
>>> pink. I happened to have some material left over from the steel siding on
>>> the hangar door that worked well. If you get the pink, don't try to paint
>>> it black as the paint will melt it (yes - I tried). If all you can get is
>>> the pink, then carve it to fit and put a thin coat of black RTV over the
>>> side that faces out.
>>>
>>> Carl
>>>
>>> -----Original Message-----
>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD
>>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 4:31 PM
>>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>>>
>>>
>>> Carl,
>>> My door only leaks at the hinge.
>>> Can you give more details on how you handled the hinge?
>>> Alan
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>
>>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 4:03 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
>>> wrote:
>>>
>>>> I did the easy way. I used 3/8" self adhesive McMaster seals on the door.
>>>> The seal is inside the door lip so you don't do the grinding. I
>>>> filled in the hinge area with a piece of rigid foam (held in the RTV)
>>>> so that the seal lays on top. Once you have the hinge area filled the
>>>> seal goes on a just a couple of minutes. The adhesive is quite
>>>> adequate. 44 hours (and countless door opening and closing) and it works
>>> well.
>>>>
>>>> Part number: 93085K11
>>>> http://www.mcmaster.com/#catalog/118/3471/=jbjp4s
>>>>
>>>> $11 for 20 feet. I tried 1/2" tall seal first, but this was too much
>>>> and the door was way hard to close. The 3/8" gets compressed, but not
>>>> enough to deform the door.
>>>>
>>>> Carl
>>>>
>>>> -----Original Message-----
>>>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>>>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
>>>> egodfrey@ameritech.net
>>>> Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 3:12 PM
>>>> To: RV-10 List
>>>> Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
>>>>
>>>> --> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
>>>>
>>>> Has anyone installed the door seals from
>>>> http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so,
>>>> what is your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to
>>>> which seals to go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I
>>>> wasn't impressed with the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place.
>>>> Also, although the use of the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I
>>>> have some reservations about sanding away so much of the door opening.
>>>> Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals
>>>> from rvtraining. Thanks.
>>>>
>>>> Ed Godfrey
>>>> 40717
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> <door seal.jpg>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: Garmin 696 XM music question |
Dave,
I get the voice to work fine, it's just the music output that cuts in and out due
to not enough output. I have a small iPod amplifier that I temporarily hooked
up and it does solve the problem, but the design of it is not something I'd
like to try and incorporate.
Did your solution fix voice and music? Or just voice transmissions?
Thank you
-Mike
Sent from my iPhone
On Sep 16, 2012, at 7:38 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Dang, I didn't mean to leave you in suspense... I shoulda read it again!
>
> We did get it working, not with a transformer but by using just the
> voice + and letting it ground via the "regular" ground, not "voice -".
> The rational was that the voice +/- was meant to drive a speaker so
> "voice -" is actually a signal opposite the hi side, not just zero.
> I'm in a little over my head but I'm sure some audio folks can
> describe it better.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 1:35 PM, John Jessen <n212pj@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> Dave, did you ever get it to work?
>>
>> On Sep 16, 2012, at 1:06 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com>
wrote:
>>
>>>
>>> Mike,
>>>
>>> Here's a write-up I did a few years ago on the Aeroelectric list.
>>> This pertains to the 496 but maybe it's similar. Hope it helps.
>>>
>>> Message: #38783
>>> From: "Dave Saylor" <Dave(at)AirCraftersLLC.com>
>>> Subject: 496 Audio
>>> Date: Nov 01, 2007
>>>
>>> Marty and all, We learned a bunch today about audio out from the
>>> Garmin 496 that could be helpful. I had a harness built by Stark to
>>> allow me to put audio from the power/data chord from a 2/3/496 into
>>> unswitched audio in my GMA340 audio panel. Seemed like a simple thing,
>>> but we never got any audio from the power/data chord. Audio jack, yes,
>>> data chord, no. Turns out the audio from the power/data cable is to
>>> drive an 8 ohm speaker. I learned that by taking apart a Garmin 12V
>>> adapter/speaker and reading the back of the $.05 speaker inside: Made
>>> in China, 8 Ohms, 2/3W. The audio panel was looking for a 600 ohm
>>> input. Interestingly, Garmin told told both John and me that the only
>>> audio coming out of the 496, in aviation mode, was from the audio
>>> jack(3/496s have a 1/8" audio jack, which outputs XM audio, and all
>>> the warnings, as well as "Voice +" and "Voice -" wires in the
>>> power/data cable). Garmin said not even to bother trying to get audio
>>> from the Voice wires while in aviation mode. It did not exist. Well,
>>> it does exist because it plays just fine with the speaker/12V adapter
>>> plugged in. I put the unit in sim mode and flew into a mountain. The
>>> speaker gives every warning you would expect, and the "Sound" page of
>>> the Setup menu controls the audio as you would expect. With a jack
>>> inserted into the audio plug, the XM audio is turned off to the
>>> power/data chord but all the warnings still come through. Which is
>>> nice, because if you wire the unit per Garmin's advice, and run the
>>> audio jack into the music input of the audio panel, your terrain
>>> warnings will get muted by intercom activity or incoming
>>> transmissions. I want to know about those pesky mountains, even if it
>>> interupts music playing in the background... Now my problem is to
>>> figure out how to convert the 8 ohm signal from the power/data chord
>>> to 600 ohms. I guess I need a transformer. I found a 8 ohm to 1000
>>> ohm, with center tap, at radio shack...can anyone tell me if that will
>>> work? How do I wire it? Dave Saylor AirCrafters LLC 140 Aviation Way
>>> Watsonville, CA 831-722-9141 831-750-0284 CL www.AirCraftersLLC.com
>>>
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Sep 16, 2012 at 10:24 AM, Michael Kraus
>>> <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> I have a Garmin 696 with XM music and I can't seem to get the sound loud enough
to hear consistently. I have it going into the music input of an Apollo
SL-15 audio panel.
>>>>
>>>> What I need is a way to amplify the output of the 696. Does anyone have any
ideas? I thought I heard of a way to add a resistor or diode or something
somewhere and it would increase the output??
>>>>
>>>> Any advice would be greatly appreciated.
>>>>
>>>> -Mike Kraus
>>>> KitFox SS7 building
>>>> RV-10 Built and Flying
>>>> RV-4 Built, Flying and sold :-(
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPad
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
Message 25
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I used them. Work great.....
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of
egodfrey@ameritech.net
Sent: Sunday, September 16, 2012 1:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: RV10 door seals
--> <egodfrey@ameritech.net>
Has anyone installed the door seals from
http://www.rvtraining.com/html/atp/html/accessories.html and if so, what is
your experience with them. I am at a fork in the road as to which seals to
go with. Looking at the ones on the factory demo, I wasn't impressed with
the use of the blind rivets to hold it in place. Also, although the use of
the McMaster seals is intriguing, I guess I have some reservations about
sanding away so much of the door opening.
Therefore, I was wanting to see if there was any feedback on the seals from
rvtraining. Thanks.
Ed Godfrey
40717
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