Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:59 AM - Re: Engine Mount Slump (Greg McFarlane)
2. 08:38 AM - Re: Engine Mount Slump (rv10flyer)
3. 03:54 PM - Re: Re: Engine Mount Slump (Rob Kochman)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Slump |
Thanks for all the replies, will go with Dave's suggestion of 1/8 to 3/16 of an
inch, engine has only been on a month so I expect until first start and then
first 100 or so hours I will see that expected drop. Apparently static sitting
has very little impact on the mounts, which in my case are Lords, it's the flying
loads that have the effect, heat and torque loads etc. My local AP (approved
person) has said to me that it's much better visually to have the spinner
sitting high in relation to the top cowl than the other way around, but as has
been said even after some time flying, if you need to "pick up-even out " the
set of the spinner to cowls the mounts themselves can be packed with spacers.
It's way above my pay scale as well to work any formula for that one, it just
goes to show its an art not a science. Cheers again from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386028#386028
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Slump |
Van's instructions say after all of the fitting to install the smaller diameter
pins in the top rear hinges. That just gave me another .025" gap at the top rear
and lowered the front another 1/16". I ended up with top of cowl 3/16" lower.
I had engine hanging very little before fitting cowl. The relative position
has not changed, but the cowl hinge eyelets do wear hence the black streaks
found after flying occasionally. So I think my cowl has dropped slightly in 88
hours and engine has sagged the same. If everyones stock cowl fits like mine
the bottom sticks out below. If I was doing it over, I would keep top rear cowl
gap tight with no clearance during fitting. I also would provide 1/4" clearance
between spinner back plate and fwd cowl to make removal easier. 1/8" is just
too close. I would also cut slot for nose gear leg fairing 2" deeper with removaable
piece/nutplates.
--------
Wayne Gillispie
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386043#386043
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Engine Mount Slump |
+1 on the spinner/cowl clearance and the larger slot for the gear leg. I
did the latter before paint, but the spinner/cowl gap would have been too
much work to fix.
-Rob
On Fri, Oct 26, 2012 at 8:37 AM, rv10flyer <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>wrote:
>
> Van's instructions say after all of the fitting to install the smaller
> diameter pins in the top rear hinges. That just gave me another .025" gap
> at the top rear and lowered the front another 1/16". I ended up with top of
> cowl 3/16" lower. I had engine hanging very little before fitting cowl. The
> relative position has not changed, but the cowl hinge eyelets do wear hence
> the black streaks found after flying occasionally. So I think my cowl has
> dropped slightly in 88 hours and engine has sagged the same. If everyones
> stock cowl fits like mine the bottom sticks out below. If I was doing it
> over, I would keep top rear cowl gap tight with no clearance during
> fitting. I also would provide 1/4" clearance between spinner back plate and
> fwd cowl to make removal easier. 1/8" is just too close. I would also cut
> slot for nose gear leg fairing 2" deeper with removaable piece/nutplates.
>
> --------
> Wayne Gillispie
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=386043#386043
>
>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
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