Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:40 AM - Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Sean Stephens)
2. 06:49 AM - Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Seano)
3. 07:01 AM - Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Dick & Vicki Sipp)
4. 07:26 AM - Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Tim Olson)
5. 07:44 AM - Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Bill Watson)
6. 08:00 AM - Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Tim Olson)
7. 08:18 AM - Strut attach brackets (Seano)
8. 08:28 AM - Re: Rear baffling (Seano)
9. 08:28 AM - Strut attach brackets (Seano)
10. 09:00 AM - Re: Rear baffling (Tim Olson)
11. 09:22 AM - Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? (Carl Froehlich)
12. 10:05 AM - Re: Rear baffling (Bill Watson)
13. 10:19 AM - Re: Rear baffling (Seano)
14. 12:05 PM - Re: Strut attach brackets (Patrick Pulis)
15. 12:11 PM - Re: Rear baffling (Kelly McMullen)
16. 05:12 PM - Center Console with O2 tank (Bill Watson)
17. 06:26 PM - Re: Rear baffling (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
18. 07:18 PM - Re: Rear baffling (Seano)
19. 07:35 PM - Re: Center Console with O2 tank (Ben Westfall)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort of
retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some use a
hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
have you seen them raise up at all?
-Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
Sean,
I don't use anything to retain the pin and I've never seen movement.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean@stephensville.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 7:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer?
>
> I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort of
> retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some use a
> hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
> http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
>
> As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
> pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
> have you seen them raise up at all?
>
> -Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
>
>
>
>
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
Sean,
I don't use any type of retainer, have not seen any movement but I do
usually hook that pin under the horizontal pin.
Dick Sipp
-----Original Message-----
From: Sean Stephens
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 9:39 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer?
I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort of
retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some use a
hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
have you seen them raise up at all?
-Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
Mine raise up all the time.
To prevent damage and prevent raising, here's
what I do:
I put a big stripe of RTV on the engine mount,
so that the pin angle can't wear them. Then, on the
engine mount I have an Adel clamp around it, nice
and snug. The ear on the clamp I spin in place so that
when the pin tries coming up, it hits the clamp and is
stopped. To remove the cowl I just spin the adel clamp
out of the way so I can pull the pin.
It's crude but it does work to keep the pin from rising.
Tim
On 1/17/2013 8:39 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort of
> retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some use a
> hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
> http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
>
> As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
> pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
> have you seen them raise up at all?
>
> -Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
>
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
Mine do ride up and I don't have a good solution yet. It will ride up
about half way to that engine mount bolt shown in your photo. That is,
3 rivets.
What I've done is put some plastic tubing over the end so it doesn't
scratch the engine mounts as it moves around. The tubing also makes it
easier to pull out. I have about the same length 'tag end' that is
shown in your photo.
I keep thinking that some tweak to the tag end will stop it from moving
or at least let the horizontal pin stop it but no success so far.
I'm looking for ideas too. Mike's solution looks solid but I'd like to
avoid adding another 2 screws to the whole cowling removal process. I
think I will adoptit unless others have better ideas.
BTW, I have the Aerosport Cowl pin covers for the horizontal pins. I
love the look and functionality of the these covers. But the pin on one
side vibrates and moves forward to hit the front of the cowl. No
problem but also no doubt that unretained, the pin would go right thru
the propeller arc (I think someone here has proven that).
I love the whole cowl pin system (except of course for the bottom pins
which I think most have eliminated). A fresh coating of clean grease on
re-installation makes them all easy to insert and remove. Old dirty
grease or just thrown off oil makes everything tough.
Bill
On 1/17/2013 9:39 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>
> I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort
> of retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some
> use a hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
> http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
>
> As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
> pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
> have you seen them raise up at all?
>
> -Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
I almost forgot...I did add plastic tubing too. It sometimes falls
off, but I did put some on the pin angle.
Tim
On 1/17/2013 9:43 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>
> Mine do ride up and I don't have a good solution yet. It will ride up
> about half way to that engine mount bolt shown in your photo. That is,
> 3 rivets.
>
> What I've done is put some plastic tubing over the end so it doesn't
> scratch the engine mounts as it moves around. The tubing also makes it
> easier to pull out. I have about the same length 'tag end' that is
> shown in your photo.
>
> I keep thinking that some tweak to the tag end will stop it from moving
> or at least let the horizontal pin stop it but no success so far.
>
> I'm looking for ideas too. Mike's solution looks solid but I'd like to
> avoid adding another 2 screws to the whole cowling removal process. I
> think I will adoptit unless others have better ideas.
>
> BTW, I have the Aerosport Cowl pin covers for the horizontal pins. I
> love the look and functionality of the these covers. But the pin on one
> side vibrates and moves forward to hit the front of the cowl. No
> problem but also no doubt that unretained, the pin would go right thru
> the propeller arc (I think someone here has proven that).
>
> I love the whole cowl pin system (except of course for the bottom pins
> which I think most have eliminated). A fresh coating of clean grease on
> re-installation makes them all easy to insert and remove. Old dirty
> grease or just thrown off oil makes everything tough.
>
> Bill
>
> On 1/17/2013 9:39 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>
>> I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort
>> of retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some
>> use a hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
>> http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
>>
>> As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
>> pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
>> have you seen them raise up at all?
>>
>> -Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Strut attach brackets |
My new planearound anodized aluminum brackets are widened to accept bigger s
truts. The opening is 3/8" they work perfect for stock struts too.
Sent from my iPhone
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from the rear
baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past. It looks like the
material is folding. Just not sure if it was shorter it would work better. I
don't want it to flip to the other side though.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 16, 2013, at 18:59, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> wrote:
>
> Not sure on what length you are referring to. The thumb rule I know is
> there should be 3/8" to 1/2" clearance between the top of the baffle
> aluminum backing plate and the cowl. The baffle material will of course be
> longer to both extend below the top and attach to the aluminum plate, bridge
> the gap to the cowl and have another inch or more to bend over to form with
> the top of the cowl so that it does not get blown out from the cowl intake
> air.
>
> Carl
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Seano
> Sent: Wednesday, January 16, 2013 1:23 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rear baffling
>
>
> What is the consensus on rear cowling baffle length. I think mine is 2inches
> and I see fold marks where air might be escaping. Is shorter better?
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Strut attach brackets |
The new PlaneAround aluminum anodized brackets are wider to accept aftermark
et struts and of course work great for stock struts. They are 3/8" at the op
ening.
Sent from my iPhone
<pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
</b></font></pre></body></html>
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess, so
I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all
baffling curved inward to form a chamber. Shorter would make it
stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.
I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's
supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are
a tad thicker, which may change things too. At any rate,
I'd think that yours are probably normal length. Mine are cut
into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting
as pleats because of the curve of the seal. If you have a
one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the
flexibility enough to make a good seal. By getting the slits
and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.
Tim
On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:
>
> Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from
> the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past.
> It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was
> shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other
> side though.
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Vertical Lower Cowl Pin Retainer? |
I lock in the vertical cowl pins by having the side pins insert over the top of
them. The side pins are inserted from inside the plane. They come through the
firewall exactly over the top of the 90 degree bend at the top of the vertical
pins. This also eliminates the side pin retainer at the front of the cowl
as the pins are retained inside the plane at the second bulkhead rib.
I did this on two planes and would (will?) do it again.
Carl
On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:00 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> I almost forgot...I did add plastic tubing too. It sometimes falls
> off, but I did put some on the pin angle.
> Tim
>
>
> On 1/17/2013 9:43 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>>
>> Mine do ride up and I don't have a good solution yet. It will ride up
>> about half way to that engine mount bolt shown in your photo. That is,
>> 3 rivets.
>>
>> What I've done is put some plastic tubing over the end so it doesn't
>> scratch the engine mounts as it moves around. The tubing also makes it
>> easier to pull out. I have about the same length 'tag end' that is
>> shown in your photo.
>>
>> I keep thinking that some tweak to the tag end will stop it from moving
>> or at least let the horizontal pin stop it but no success so far.
>>
>> I'm looking for ideas too. Mike's solution looks solid but I'd like to
>> avoid adding another 2 screws to the whole cowling removal process. I
>> think I will adoptit unless others have better ideas.
>>
>> BTW, I have the Aerosport Cowl pin covers for the horizontal pins. I
>> love the look and functionality of the these covers. But the pin on one
>> side vibrates and moves forward to hit the front of the cowl. No
>> problem but also no doubt that unretained, the pin would go right thru
>> the propeller arc (I think someone here has proven that).
>>
>> I love the whole cowl pin system (except of course for the bottom pins
>> which I think most have eliminated). A fresh coating of clean grease on
>> re-installation makes them all easy to insert and remove. Old dirty
>> grease or just thrown off oil makes everything tough.
>>
>> Bill
>>
>> On 1/17/2013 9:39 AM, Sean Stephens wrote:
>>>
>>> I am wondering what others have done with regards to using some sort
>>> of retainer on the vertical pins on the aft lower cowl. I seen some
>>> use a hinge section like Mike did as seen here:
>>> http://www.azcloudflyer.com/finish/IMG_0291.jpg .
>>>
>>> As there is nothing in the plans I am wondering if a retainer on these
>>> pins is really needed. Those flying without retainers on these pins,
>>> have you seen them raise up at all?
>>>
>>> -Sean #40303 (still trying to check off the cowl section)
>
>
>
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
I went with the silicone and love it. It worked suprisingly well. A bit
thicker and with alot more body. A minimal number of separate pieces to
complete the job. The corners worked well. Looks great and would seem
to wear very well. Very well sealed.
Recently, I was having some trouble with my custom latch on my oil
door. One of the things I added was some of the silicone baffling
material around the oil door to seal it up. Previously, the air
pressure would significantly deform the door by pushing the edges out.
Adding strips of silicone reduced that significantly. Need a pic or two.
Bill
On 1/17/2013 11:59 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's
> supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are
> a tad thicker, which may change things too. At any rate,
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
Bill,
I'm very interested in your oil door pics. I have the aftermarket hinge too and
can see the edges bulging at cruise speeds. I've been thinking of ways to fix
this.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 17, 2013, at 11:04, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I went with the silicone and love it. It worked suprisingly well. A bit thicker
and with alot more body. A minimal number of separate pieces to complete the
job. The corners worked well. Looks great and would seem to wear very well.
Very well sealed.
>
> Recently, I was having some trouble with my custom latch on my oil door. One
of the things I added was some of the silicone baffling material around the oil
door to seal it up. Previously, the air pressure would significantly deform
the door by pushing the edges out. Adding strips of silicone reduced that significantly.
Need a pic or two.
>
> Bill
>
> On 1/17/2013 11:59 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>>
>> I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's
>> supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are
>> a tad thicker, which may change things too. At any rate,
>
>
>
>
>
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Strut attach brackets |
Sean,
If I owe you anything for the brackets or if you'd like the nylon ones back please
let me know?
Warm regards
Patrick
On 18/01/2013, at 2:28 AM, Seano <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
> My new planearound anodized aluminum brackets are widened to accept bigger struts.
The opening is 3/8" they work perfect for stock struts too.
>
> <photo.JPG>
>
>
>
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> <pre><b><font size=2 color="#000000" face="courier new,courier">
>
>
> </b></font></pre>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
You might want to consider the McFarlane cowl saver silicone. It is treated
on one side so that it is slippery to the cowling, avoiding transfer of
vibration and wear to the cowl. Of course it costs a bit more. You will
need to figure from your originals how much you need, as you don't want to
pay for a lot left over.
On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
>
> I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess, so
> I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all
> baffling curved inward to form a chamber. Shorter would make it
> stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.
> I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's
> supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are
> a tad thicker, which may change things too. At any rate,
> I'd think that yours are probably normal length. Mine are cut
> into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting
> as pleats because of the curve of the seal. If you have a
> one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the
> flexibility enough to make a good seal. By getting the slits
> and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:
>
>>
>> Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from
>> the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past.
>> It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was
>> shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other
>> side though.
>>
>>
>
>
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Center Console with O2 tank |
I'm just finishing up a center console project that I thought I'd share.
After enjoying some of the high altitude capabilities of the '10 when
out west last year, I wanted to be able easily carry oxygen for high
flying and geezer revival as needed.
The solution was a center console with a tank in it. A tank and console
that could be easily removed when desired.
One design point involved space. We've become very accustomed to
having unobstructed room between the seats and didn't really want to
give that up. So whatever went in there needed to have the smallest
profile possible while still holding the tank and acting as an arm
rest. An it still needed to be easily removeable.
The build is documented here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=8533
(ignore the two 1/16/2013 items - I can't figure out how to delete them)
I've only flown with it once and it seems to be working great -
especially the iPad RAM mount. More testing this weekend.
Bill "ready to suck some O2" Watson
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
The Cowl Saver material from McFarlane is what I used. One area I could not get
it to conform and fit right was at the front of the engine around the intake
openings and around the front of the case. There I used the supplied Vans material
and glued a strip of the cowl saver material on the inside of the top cowling
where the Vans material meets the cowl. I can't remember how mush I purchased
feet wise but it was around $100 and I feel will be well worth the added
expense in vibration reduction.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 3:11:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear baffling
You might want to consider the McFarlane cowl saver silicone. It is treated on
one side so that it is slippery to the cowling, avoiding transfer of vibration
and wear to the cowl. Of course it costs a bit more. You will need to figure
from your originals how much you need, as you don't want to pay for a lot left
over.
On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Tim Olson < Tim@myrv10.com > wrote:
I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess, so
I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all
baffling curved inward to form a chamber. Shorter would make it
stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.
I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's
supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are
a tad thicker, which may change things too. At any rate,
I'd think that yours are probably normal length. Mine are cut
into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting
as pleats because of the curve of the seal. If you have a
one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the
flexibility enough to make a good seal. By getting the slits
and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.
Tim
On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:
<blockquote>
Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward from
the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes past.
It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was
shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other
side though.
==== ============================== ==
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/ Navigator?RV10-List
==== ============================== ==
http://forums.matronics.com
==== ============================== ==
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/ contribution
==== ============================== ==
</blockquote>
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear baffling |
Thanks for the input. I may try this and use my old stuff as patterns.
----- Original Message -----
From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 7:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear baffling
The Cowl Saver material from McFarlane is what I used. One area I
could not get it to conform and fit right was at the front of the engine
around the intake openings and around the front of the case. There I
used the supplied Vans material and glued a strip of the cowl saver
material on the inside of the top cowling where the Vans material meets
the cowl. I can't remember how mush I purchased feet wise but it was
around $100 and I feel will be well worth the added expense in vibration
reduction.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
-------------------------------------------------------------------------
-----
From: "Kelly McMullen" <apilot2@gmail.com>
To: rv10-list@matronics.com
Sent: Thursday, January 17, 2013 3:11:25 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear baffling
You might want to consider the McFarlane cowl saver silicone. It is
treated on one side so that it is slippery to the cowling, avoiding
transfer of vibration and wear to the cowl. Of course it costs a bit
more. You will need to figure from your originals how much you need, as
you don't want to pay for a lot left over.
On Thu, Jan 17, 2013 at 9:59 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote:
I've often wondered the same thing. Mine is maybe 1.5-2" of excess,
so
I probably have a 1-1.5" contact area with the top cowl, with all
baffling curved inward to form a chamber. Shorter would make it
stiffer and maybe not give a smooth curved seal, I'm not sure.
I've also been toying with the idea of switching from the Van's
supplied stuff to silicone, but most silicone gasket seals are
a tad thicker, which may change things too. At any rate,
I'd think that yours are probably normal length. Mine are cut
into a little shorter strips than some people may use, acting
as pleats because of the curve of the seal. If you have a
one piece rear seal for instance, I don't think you'd get the
flexibility enough to make a good seal. By getting the slits
and overlaps right, it seems like it goes together real well.
Tim
On 1/17/2013 10:20 AM, Seano wrote:
Yep. I'm talking about the amount of material that folds forward
from
the rear baffling. I have 2" and can see areas that air escapes
past.
It looks like the material is folding. Just not sure if it was
shorter it would work better. I don't want it to flip to the other
side though.
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://forums.matronics.com
le, List Admin.
="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Center Console with O2 tank |
Bill that looks like a great execution of your design goals. Nice job. It
also looks like a hell of a lot of work!!
Ben Westfall
-----Original Message-----
I'm just finishing up a center console project that I thought I'd share.
After enjoying some of the high altitude capabilities of the '10 when out
west last year, I wanted to be able easily carry oxygen for high flying and
geezer revival as needed.
The solution was a center console with a tank in it. A tank and console
that could be easily removed when desired.
One design point involved space. We've become very accustomed to having
unobstructed room between the seats and didn't really want to give that up.
So whatever went in there needed to have the smallest profile possible while
still holding the tank and acting as an arm rest. An it still needed to be
easily removeable.
The build is documented here:
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/category.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&cate
gory=8533
(ignore the two 1/16/2013 items - I can't figure out how to delete them)
I've only flown with it once and it seems to be working great - especially
the iPad RAM mount. More testing this weekend.
Bill "ready to suck some O2" Watson
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|