Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:22 AM - Tapered Top Cowl Pins (Greg McFarlane)
2. 05:36 AM - Re: Tapered Top Cowl Pins (Tim Olson)
3. 09:58 AM - Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue (rv10flyer)
4. 10:01 AM - Re: Tapered Top Cowl Pins (Robin Marks)
5. 10:30 AM - Re: Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue (Jae Chang)
6. 06:22 PM - Re: Tapered Top Cowl Pins (Chris)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Tapered Top Cowl Pins |
Here is a quick easy way to allow the 120 top pins to be used to retain that nice
fit and stop the cowl ballooning. Place a piece of hardwood about 10 inches
long in a vice. Using a CUTTING disc on a 4inch grinder make a straight shallow
cut the length of the wood then mark a line across the wood 7inches from one
end. Cut the pins to length, hold one end in an electric drill and have an assistant
operate the drill at about 1000rpm, hold the rotating pin with one hand
on the wood groove and with the other hand a 4 inch grinder with a GRINDING
disc. GENTLY and EVENLY apply the grinder to the first 6inches of the pin using
the mark on the wood as a guide. Check the diameter as you go, when about 100
discard the assistant and using the drill yourself sand the pin smooth. Sand
the end of the pin per plans to give a nice lead in.The pin needs only to be
tapered for about 6inches and that allows it to enter and go around the curve
in the hinge nicely and keeps everything nice and snug. Cheers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392870#392870
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Tapered Top Cowl Pins |
I like it! I'm going to use that on my next cowl, and maybe
even replace my pins with ones like that on my -10.
Hopefully I can do a good job on that pin though, as I can
tell it's going to take a steady hand and some focus.
Tim
On 1/22/2013 6:21 AM, Greg McFarlane wrote:
> <grbcmcfarlane@gmail.com>
>
> Here is a quick easy way to allow the 120 top pins to be used to
> retain that nice fit and stop the cowl ballooning. Place a piece of
> hardwood about 10 inches long in a vice. Using a CUTTING disc on a
> 4inch grinder make a straight shallow cut the length of the wood then
> mark a line across the wood 7inches from one end. Cut the pins to
> length, hold one end in an electric drill and have an assistant
> operate the drill at about 1000rpm, hold the rotating pin with one
> hand on the wood groove and with the other hand a 4 inch grinder with
> a GRINDING disc. GENTLY and EVENLY apply the grinder to the first
> 6inches of the pin using the mark on the wood as a guide. Check the
> diameter as you go, when about 100 discard the assistant and using
> the drill yourself sand the pin smooth. Sand the end of the pin per
> plans to give a nice lead in.The pin needs only to be tapered for
> about 6inches and that allows it to enter and go around the curve in
> the hinge nicely and keeps everything nice and s! nug. Cheers from
> Western Australia
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392870#392870
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue |
I have everything sealed up pretty good(spars, aileron pushrods, corrugations and
doors). At 20*F once we are warmed up(3-5 min after takeoff), we keep the front
open 1/4" and the rear open 1/2". The kids keep wool blankets over the heat
outlets, so most of the heat comes right up around them.
--------
Wayne G.
12/01/2011
TT= 95
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392882#392882
Message 4
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| Subject: | Tapered Top Cowl Pins |
Just throwing out another option. If you don't want to go the expense of th
e quarter turn Cam-Lock style fasteners (understandable) you can do as I ha
ve twice and just use $0.05 S/S #8 or #10 screws and washers. They work gr
eat, you can carry extras in your tool box or pick some up at the local hom
e improvement center if needed. Works great and you are piano hinge free fo
rever!.
Robin
[http://painttheweb.com/painttheweb/rv-6a/images/RV-6A%20PICTURES/Exterior/
RV-6A%20(8).JPG]
[cid:image002.jpg@01CDF887.64A54AC0]
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Tim Olson
Sent: Tuesday, January 22, 2013 5:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Tapered Top Cowl Pins
0.com>>
I like it! I'm going to use that on my next cowl, and maybe even replace m
y pins with ones like that on my -10.
Hopefully I can do a good job on that pin though, as I can tell it's going
to take a steady hand and some focus.
Tim
On 1/22/2013 6:21 AM, Greg McFarlane wrote:
> <grbcmcfarlane@gmail.com<mailto:grbcmcfarlane@gmail.com>>
>
> Here is a quick easy way to allow the 120 top pins to be used to
> retain that nice fit and stop the cowl ballooning. Place a piece of
> hardwood about 10 inches long in a vice. Using a CUTTING disc on a
> 4inch grinder make a straight shallow cut the length of the wood then
> mark a line across the wood 7inches from one end. Cut the pins to
> length, hold one end in an electric drill and have an assistant
> operate the drill at about 1000rpm, hold the rotating pin with one
> hand on the wood groove and with the other hand a 4 inch grinder with
> a GRINDING disc. GENTLY and EVENLY apply the grinder to the first
> 6inches of the pin using the mark on the wood as a guide. Check the
> diameter as you go, when about 100 discard the assistant and using the
> drill yourself sand the pin smooth. Sand the end of the pin per plans
> to give a nice lead in.The pin needs only to be tapered for about
> 6inches and that allows it to enter and go around the curve in the
> hinge nicely and keeps everything nice and s! nug. Cheers from Western
> Australia
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392870#392870
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
-----
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Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Rear Seat Heat Issue |
Thanks Bill and Wayne. I started that thread a year ago. I discovered
that most of that cold air was coming in thru the corrugations of the
baggage bulkheads. I ended up cutting up triangular shaped foam plugs
which i glued into the corrugations which seems to be doing an adequate job.
Now on my second winter, i noticed my biggest air leak is now air coming
in thru the cabin door pin holes. I am using the Al door pin blocks with
a fairly tight fit to the door pins, so i'm surprised to be getting as
much air in as i am. I haven't come up with a solution yet.
Another observation i noticed in my second winter, is that since most of
the big air leaks are taken care of, there is less air movement in the
cabin. This actually makes the cabin colder than with some air
circulation. I used to crack open the rear cabin heat and let that hot
air circulate everywhere which worked nicely. Now, with all the cold air
vents closed, if you open up the front and rear heat, you generally got
very hot feet and lower legs, but the rest of the body is cold. This is
what my passengers have told me.
A worse problem for me is that the front cabin heat seems to just go
straight up into the instrument area, causing unnecessary heating of the
panel. I often find myself trying to redirect cold air from the pilot's
vent back behind the panel as much as i can. Getting some air moving in
there helps to circulate the heat to other parts of the cabin where it
is more useful.
Anyway, these are some other observations related to cabin heating i
have recently noticed.
Jae
--
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
do not archive
On 1/22/2013 9:56 AM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> I have everything sealed up pretty good(spars, aileron pushrods, corrugations
and doors). At 20*F once we are warmed up(3-5 min after takeoff), we keep the
front open 1/4" and the rear open 1/2". The kids keep wool blankets over the
heat outlets, so most of the heat comes right up around them.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> 12/01/2011
> TT= 95
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Tapered Top Cowl Pins |
Great, I just might give that a go.
-Chris
N919AR
----- Original Message -----
From: Greg McFarlane <grbcmcfarlane@gmail.com>
Sent: Tue, 22 Jan 2013 07:21:17 -0500 (EST)
Subject: RV10-List: Tapered Top Cowl Pins
Here is a quick easy way to allow the 120 top pins to be used to retain that nice
fit and stop the cowl ballooning. Place a piece of hardwood about 10 inches
long in a vice. Using a CUTTING disc on a 4inch grinder make a straight shallow
cut the length of the wood then mark a line across the wood 7inches from one
end. Cut the pins to length, hold one end in an electric drill and have an assistant
operate the drill at about 1000rpm, hold the rotating pin with one hand
on the wood groove and with the other hand a 4 inch grinder with a GRINDING
disc. GENTLY and EVENLY apply the grinder to the first 6inches of the pin using
the mark on the wood as a guide. Check the diameter as you go, when about 100
discard the assistant and using the drill yourself sand the pin smooth. Sand
the end of the pin per plans to give a nice lead in.The pin needs only to be
tapered for about 6inches and that allows it to enter and go around the curve
in the hinge nicely and keeps everything nice and s!
nug. Cheers from Western Australia
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=392870#392870
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