Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:42 AM - Re: Re: Pesky heavy left wing (Bob Condrey)
2. 04:48 AM - MAP Gauge Line Failure (jkreidler)
3. 06:49 AM - Rear seat access (Bob Leffler)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Rene Felker)
5. 07:01 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Tim Olson)
6. 07:12 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Kelly McMullen)
7. 07:14 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Bob Leffler)
8. 07:19 AM - Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin (Sean Stephens)
9. 07:20 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Rene Felker)
10. 07:35 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Seano)
11. 07:36 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Werner Schneider)
12. 07:59 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Tim Olson)
13. 07:59 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Bob Leffler)
14. 08:26 AM - Re: Rear seat access (Seano)
15. 08:38 AM - Re: MAP Gauge Line Failure (rv10flyer)
16. 08:51 AM - Re: Re: MAP Gauge Line Failure (Tim Olson)
17. 09:24 AM - Re: Rear seat access (rleffler)
18. 09:39 AM - Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
19. 10:10 AM - Re: Re: Rear seat access (Seano)
20. 10:17 AM - Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin (Michael Kraus)
21. 10:46 AM - Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin (Sean Stephens)
22. 10:49 AM - Re: Rear seat access (jkreidler)
23. 11:56 AM - Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin (Michael Kraus)
24. 01:53 PM - Re: Pesky heavy left wing (hotwheels)
25. 02:06 PM - Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin (Sean Stephens)
26. 02:23 PM - Re: Re: Pesky heavy left wing (Bob Condrey)
27. 02:45 PM - Re: Re: Pesky heavy left wing (Rene Felker)
28. 02:55 PM - Re: Re: Pesky heavy left wing (Ben Westfall)
29. 03:04 PM - Re: Pesky heavy left wing (hotwheels)
30. 03:19 PM - Re: Re: Pesky heavy left wing (Rene Felker)
31. 03:49 PM - Re: Pesky heavy left wing (hotwheels)
32. 06:25 PM - Re: Re: Rear seat access (Bob Leffler)
Message 1
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
In this case there's no question that it has a twist (I saw it before the
wings were mounted). My best guess is that the skins are quite symmetrical
and one is flipped. Aside from a twist, the Hines on that flap aren't in
perfect alignment.
Jay: pull the inner hinge bolts on the flaps. The one that pops out out of
alignment is the offending flap.
Bob
On Sunday, January 27, 2013, Rick Lark wrote:
> Just to add further to "checking for flap twist". A really easy and
> simple way to check is to use "winding sticks". It's an old technique
> woodworkers used. Search in google for the details.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
> On Sun, Jan 27, 2013 at 9:14 AM, bill.peyton <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net<javascript:_e({},
'cvml', 'peyton.b@sbcglobal.net');>
> > wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> First I would verify that you indeed have twist in the flap. Use a long
>> straight edge. If you do, depending on how bad, you can build a new flap,
>> or live with it and rig the ailerons as pointed out above. As stated
>> above, the flap should be even with the fuse on the retract position. You
>> should not run the flap down to attempt to match the two. The flap
>> actuator mechanism is not designed to carry the lift load at cruise speeds
>> beyond the ~125kt limitation called out in the installation manual. They
>> need to to be nested in cruise.
>>
>> I too had a heavy wing on the left side. Mine was due to the aileron
>> hinge attach bracket. My left leading edge inside bracket was 1/16" to
>> high. I re-drilled the holes in a new bracket and shifted them 1/16",
>> re-installed and my wing heavy is gone. It doesn't take much. This
>> situation can be checked with a straight edge also.
>>
>> I also find that if you have as much as a 5 gallon fuel differential you
>> will notice a wing heavy.
>>
>> --------
>> Bill
>> WA0SYV
>> Aviation Partners, LLC
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393127#393127
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> ==========
>> arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> ==========
>> http://forums.matronics.com
>> ==========
>> le, List Admin.
>> ="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> ==========
>>
>>
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 2
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | MAP Gauge Line Failure |
On Saturday our MAP gauge started to read ambient air pressure. After a brief
search I discovered that the piece of Tygon hose that connects the port on the
firewall to the MAP sending unit mounted to the sub panel had split at the bottom
of the service loop. It looks like fuel (I assume) or other contaminants
had worked into the hose and settled at the bottom of the service loop. Apparently
those contaminants and the Tygon tubing did not chemically agree. We are
running a GRT engine monitor, I do not recall if this tubing came from Vans
or GRT. Just a heads up - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393156#393156
Message 3
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rear seat access |
A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm antenna,
which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the painter.
Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a vacuum to
re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't push anything
past the second turn.
At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets tonight.
The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the blind
rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need to get
back into those cavities for any reason?
I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment antenna.
Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
Message 4
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rear seat access |
I put in access panels. Have used one of them already.......
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat access
A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
painter.
Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a vacuum
to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't push
anything past the second turn.
At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
tonight.
The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need to
get back into those cavities for any reason?
I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
antenna.
Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
Message 5
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
I was able to fish the cable out, on my initial install, from the bottom
of the plane, but I can understand your situation if the conduit exit
isn't real near the hole for the antenna.
What I would do is install an access plate. I haven't had need
to do that on my plane, but, I did put an access plate on one
bay anyway...more as a storage area than anything. I now carry
some spare parts for small things that I've accumulated over the
years, such as spark plugs, magneto parts, and things like that,
in a little container in the seat bays. That way they
aren't rattling around in the baggage area, getting crushed,
and they are hidden away nicely, but accessible with the removal
of a few screws.
So, it may be an opportunity for you to do a little mod.
To do mine, I had to look at photos to make a narrow slot but
leave enough metal on the sides to allow for installation of an
access plate doubler. I riveted in the doubler, threw in
some nutplates, and then put the strip of metal from the
seat back on top. I did it in about a night I think, in the
hangar.
So all is not lost. I don't think I'd drill out all the rivets.
That would be a lot of work for no great reason. Even worst
case, you could cut a hole, round or oblong, and then cut an
oversized patch that you could rivet on over the hole later.
Under a seat cushion nobody would ever know, and then you'd
have easy access later. Install nutplates and you could
have an access plate that isn't flush, but doesn't need the
doubler.
Tim
On 1/28/2013 8:48 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two
> comm antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were
> removed by the painter.
>
> Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a
> vacuum to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I
> can't push anything past the second turn.
>
> At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind
> rivets tonight.
>
> The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall
> the blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install
> nutplates.
>
> For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a
> need to get back into those cavities for any reason?
>
> I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the
> comment antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
Message 6
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Bob,
I wound up drilling all the rivets for my back seats, to add an antenna on
one side, and for similar cable situation on other side. It won't take long
to drill them, and you won't be able to get the access you need unless you
drill virtually all of them. Fortunately they are easy to drill with a
sharp drill bit.
I installed access panels to resolve the issue in the future. You may or
may not need to get in there again, and access panel with 4 or 6 nutplates
is relatively quick and easy to make. If you don't put in access, you will
need in there again, if you make the panel, you won't ever have to go
there. Just another Murphy's corollary.
Kelly
On Mon, Jan 28, 2013 at 7:48 AM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote:
>
> A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
> antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
> painter.
>
> Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a
> vacuum to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't
> push anything past the second turn.
>
> At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
> tonight.
>
> The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
> blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
>
> For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need
> to get back into those cavities for any reason?
>
> I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
> antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 7
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Tim,
I hadn't thought of that, but I like your suggestion. I think that's what I'll
do tonight.
Thanks,
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
I was able to fish the cable out, on my initial install, from the bottom of the
plane, but I can understand your situation if the conduit exit isn't real near
the hole for the antenna.
What I would do is install an access plate. I haven't had need
to do that on my plane, but, I did put an access plate on one
bay anyway...more as a storage area than anything. I now carry
some spare parts for small things that I've accumulated over the
years, such as spark plugs, magneto parts, and things like that,
in a little container in the seat bays. That way they
aren't rattling around in the baggage area, getting crushed,
and they are hidden away nicely, but accessible with the removal
of a few screws.
So, it may be an opportunity for you to do a little mod.
To do mine, I had to look at photos to make a narrow slot but
leave enough metal on the sides to allow for installation of an
access plate doubler. I riveted in the doubler, threw in
some nutplates, and then put the strip of metal from the
seat back on top. I did it in about a night I think, in the
hangar.
So all is not lost. I don't think I'd drill out all the rivets.
That would be a lot of work for no great reason. Even worst
case, you could cut a hole, round or oblong, and then cut an
oversized patch that you could rivet on over the hole later.
Under a seat cushion nobody would ever know, and then you'd
have easy access later. Install nutplates and you could
have an access plate that isn't flush, but doesn't need the
doubler.
Tim
On 1/28/2013 8:48 AM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two
> comm antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were
> removed by the painter.
>
> Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a
> vacuum to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I
> can't push anything past the second turn.
>
> At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind
> rivets tonight.
>
> The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall
> the blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install
> nutplates.
>
> For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a
> need to get back into those cavities for any reason?
>
> I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the
> comment antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
Message 8
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin |
For those that are using the hidden oil door hinge from non-stop, how
did you secure the hinge pin?
-Sean #40303
Message 9
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Rear seat access |
Have you tried the Vacuum? It does not take too much airflow to pull the
sting through.....if you can get to one end, then just get the string close
on the other I think you could get it to work. Maybe put the string on the
end of a fish tape in order to get it close.
Good luck.....
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat access
A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
painter.
Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a vacuum
to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't push
anything past the second turn.
At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
tonight.
The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need to
get back into those cavities for any reason?
I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
antenna.
Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
Message 10
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
I made access panels on each side. I used plastic grommets for the coax to
enter from the flap control tubes.
As far as snaking through conduit, I bought a snake from Harbor Freight
(even though I hate that place). It is red plastic with a round metal end.
I could push that through the crazy turns of the conduit.
Sean
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:48 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat access
>
> A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
> antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
> painter.
>
> Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a
> vacuum to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't
> push anything past the second turn.
>
> At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
> tonight.
>
> The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
> blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
>
> For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need
> to get back into those cavities for any reason?
>
> I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
> antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Message 11
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
You might use a tiny paperball at the end of the line and a good strong
vacuum (I had some success with that in the past)
Werner
On 28.01.2013 16:14, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Tim,
>
> I hadn't thought of that, but I like your suggestion. I think that's what I'll
do tonight.
>
> Thanks,
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:01 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
> I was able to fish the cable out, on my initial install, from the bottom of the
plane, but I can understand your situation if the conduit exit isn't real near
the hole for the antenna.
>
>
Message 12
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
That's a great idea...even if the string isn't aligned with the
hole in the belly skin, it may get sucked in the right direction
and come out.
Tim
On 1/28/2013 9:20 AM, Rene Felker wrote:
>
> Have you tried the Vacuum? It does not take too much airflow to pull the
> sting through.....if you can get to one end, then just get the string close
> on the other I think you could get it to work. Maybe put the string on the
> end of a fish tape in order to get it close.
>
> Good luck.....
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:49 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat access
>
>
> A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
> antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
> painter.
>
> Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a vacuum
> to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't push
> anything past the second turn.
>
> At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
> tonight.
>
> The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
> blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
>
> For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need to
> get back into those cavities for any reason?
>
> I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
> antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
Message 13
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Yep, having done audio and data wiring for over twenty years, I know most of the
tricks.
There is about a two inch gap between the end of the conduit and the antenna mounting
hole. I had hoped the string was just laying on the floor and I could
suck if out. But that doesn't appear to be the case.
Installing an access plate is a good idea regardless, so I just spend some time
installing one now instead of later when I need to make a repair
The corrugated conduit, doesn't work well wish any of my fish tapes. Although
none of mine are like the on Sean described.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:20 AM, "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com> wrote:
Have you tried the Vacuum? It does not take too much airflow to pull the
sting through.....if you can get to one end, then just get the string close
on the other I think you could get it to work. Maybe put the string on the
end of a fish tape in order to get it close.
Good luck.....
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:49 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat access
A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
painter.
Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a vacuum
to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't push
anything past the second turn.
At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
tonight.
The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need to
get back into those cavities for any reason?
I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
antenna.
Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
Bob
Sent from my iPhone
Message 14
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Bob,
My conduit is corrugated blue stuff. The fish tape I have works well. If
you want I can ship to you.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bob Leffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 8:58 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Rear seat access
>
> Yep, having done audio and data wiring for over twenty years, I know most
> of the tricks.
>
> There is about a two inch gap between the end of the conduit and the
> antenna mounting hole. I had hoped the string was just laying on the
> floor and I could suck if out. But that doesn't appear to be the case.
>
> Installing an access plate is a good idea regardless, so I just spend some
> time installing one now instead of later when I need to make a repair
>
> The corrugated conduit, doesn't work well wish any of my fish tapes.
> Although none of mine are like the on Sean described.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:20 AM, "Rene Felker" <rene@felker.com> wrote:
>
>
> Have you tried the Vacuum? It does not take too much airflow to pull the
> sting through.....if you can get to one end, then just get the string
> close
> on the other I think you could get it to work. Maybe put the string on the
> end of a fish tape in order to get it close.
>
> Good luck.....
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Bob Leffler
> Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 7:49 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Rear seat access
>
>
> A long story that I'll make short is that the pull strings for my two comm
> antenna, which are located underneath the rear seats, were removed by the
> painter.
>
> Since the conduit doesn't go all the way to the floor, I can't use a
> vacuum
> to re-run the lines. Also, due to the turns in the conduit I can't push
> anything past the second turn.
>
> At this point it looks like I'll be drilling out all those blind rivets
> tonight.
>
> The debate in having with myself is whether or not to just reinstall the
> blind rivets or go through the time and expense to install nutplates.
>
> For those with comm antenna under your rear seats, have you found a need
> to
> get back into those cavities for any reason?
>
> I guess one alternative would be to install access panels over the comment
> antenna.
>
> Thanks in advance for sharing your opinions!
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
Message 15
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAP Gauge Line Failure |
This is what I used on mine.
http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KNVPE
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393176#393176
Message 16
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: MAP Gauge Line Failure |
They make a Tygon that's made for fuel, which is what I used.
It's similar to this stuff on Amazon, but of smaller size,
and I got it from Aircraft Spruce:
http://www.amazon.com/Tygon-F-4040-A-Lubricant-Tubing-Length/dp/B000PHDLBI
Just track down Tygon F-4040-A
If you're familiar with model airplanes, it feels similar to the fuel
hose that is used for fueling those.
Tim
On 1/28/2013 10:38 AM, rv10flyer wrote:
>
> This is what I used on mine.
>
> http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B0002KNVPE
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
> SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
> TT= 97.6
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393176#393176
>
Message 17
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Strasnuts wrote:
> Bob,
>
> My conduit is corrugated blue stuff. The fish tape I have works well. If
> you want I can ship to you.
>
>
> ---
If you are talking about this one, I may swing by HF on the way home tonight.
It looks like it's less expensive to purchase than ship.
My only opportunity is that the conduit comes out of the rib a few inches forward
of the hole for the antenna connector. The question will be if I can grab
it blindly through the hole? But it may be worth the try.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Paint - 90% done, 90% to go stage
RV-10 #40684
http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393180#393180
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fishtape_316.jpg
Message 18
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin |
Shorten the pin about 1/4". Then pinch the hinge pin eyes a little at the tips,
or just drill through them an safety wire .
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Sean Stephens" <sean@stephensville.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 10:19:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin
For those that are using the hidden oil door hinge from non-stop, how
did you secure the hinge pin?
-Sean #40303
Message 19
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
That's the one
----- Original Message -----
From: "rleffler" <rv@thelefflers.com>
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 10:24 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear seat access
>
>
> Strasnuts wrote:
>> Bob,
>>
>> My conduit is corrugated blue stuff. The fish tape I have works well.
>> If
>> you want I can ship to you.
>>
>>
>> ---
>
>
> If you are talking about this one, I may swing by HF on the way home
> tonight. It looks like it's less expensive to purchase than ship.
>
> My only opportunity is that the conduit comes out of the rib a few inches
> forward of the hole for the antenna connector. The question will be if I
> can grab it blindly through the hole? But it may be worth the try.
>
> bob
>
> --------
> Bob Leffler
> N410BL - Paint - 90% done, 90% to go stage
> RV-10 #40684
> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393180#393180
>
>
> Attachments:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com//files/fishtape_316.jpg
>
>
>
Message 20
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin |
Install a longer pin and bend the ends...
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
On Jan 28, 2013, at 10:19 AM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>
> For those that are using the hidden oil door hinge from non-stop, how did you
secure the hinge pin?
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>
>
>
Message 21
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin |
I didn't want to bend both ends in case I wanted to remove the door at
some point. I was thinking of bending just one end and safety wiring
the bent end to something? Maybe a hole drilled in the eyelet as David
mentioned.
On 1/28/13 11:56 AM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> Install a longer pin and bend the ends...
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 sold :-(
> RV-10 flying :-)
> KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
>
Message 22
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Another idea... If are able to get the fish tape into the subject area try placing
something magnetic on the end of the tape then use a magnet to steer the tape
to the hole. Or if there are no other wires you might be able to blow a string
through with a screw on the end and then use the magnet.
I REALLY like Tim's idea of an access panel leading to a small storage space.
I saw this done on wingtips before. Great idea Tim! - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393185#393185
Message 23
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin |
I bent 1 end at 90 degrees and the other at ~10 degrees. It's been removed 4-5
times for various reasons including paint.... No issues... Just bend it back
straight and pull it out!
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
On Jan 28, 2013, at 1:45 PM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
> mentioned.
Message 24
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
Thanks to all that replied to my question.
I closely examined both flaps in the reflex position over the weekend. The left
flap inside edge is perfectly aligned to the bottom of the fuse skin. The right
flap is about 1/2" lower than the fuse skin. I believe that explains the tendency
towards rolling to the left. The weird thing is that I built both flaps
side by side at the same time and didn't notice anything usual at the time. Both
were primed, so if something got flipped it had to happen early on in the
process.
I'll report back once I get the offender replaced. Hopefully, it will just be a
pain in the wallet...
Cheers,
Jay
N433RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393195#393195
Message 25
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Securing Oil Door Hidden Hinge Pin |
Sounds good. Thanks Mike...
On 1/28/13 1:55 PM, Michael Kraus wrote:
>
> I bent 1 end at 90 degrees and the other at ~10 degrees. It's been removed 4-5
times for various reasons including paint.... No issues... Just bend it back
straight and pull it out!
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 sold :-(
> RV-10 flying :-)
> KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
>
>
Message 26
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
While rare, it's possible that one of the skins has the holes incorrectly
punched. As I recall, if you retract the flaps to reflex and look at how
the wing trailing edge meets the flap you will also notice that it isn't
parallel like the other side.
Bob
On Monday, January 28, 2013, hotwheels wrote:
> >
>
> Thanks to all that replied to my question.
>
> I closely examined both flaps in the reflex position over the weekend. The
> left flap inside edge is perfectly aligned to the bottom of the fuse skin.
> The right flap is about 1/2" lower than the fuse skin. I believe that
> explains the tendency towards rolling to the left. The weird thing is that
> I built both flaps side by side at the same time and didn't notice anything
> usual at the time. Both were primed, so if something got flipped it had to
> happen early on in the process.
>
> I'll report back once I get the offender replaced. Hopefully, it will just
> be a pain in the wallet...
>
> Cheers,
> Jay
> N433RV
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393195#393195
>
>
Message 27
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
Does your right flap contact the frame? If so, it could be affecting the
rigging.....ask me how I know........mine was not that far down, I don't
think, but after clearing the contact area I was able to get both flaps the
same. When I was doing the final fit of the flaps after the wing was on the
airframe, I trimmed the flap without it being connected to the flap motor
and linkage. I think it cleared the frame then (close fit), but when I
connected up the linkage, after paint, it was contacting and holding the
flap down about 1 degree.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of hotwheels
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 2:53 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pesky heavy left wing
Thanks to all that replied to my question.
I closely examined both flaps in the reflex position over the weekend. The
left flap inside edge is perfectly aligned to the bottom of the fuse skin.
The right flap is about 1/2" lower than the fuse skin. I believe that
explains the tendency towards rolling to the left. The weird thing is that I
built both flaps side by side at the same time and didn't notice anything
usual at the time. Both were primed, so if something got flipped it had to
happen early on in the process.
I'll report back once I get the offender replaced. Hopefully, it will just
be a pain in the wallet...
Cheers,
Jay
N433RV
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393195#393195
Message 28
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
I'm just curios... Does anyone know the cost of replacing a flap? I've got
a slight twist in one of mine but I'll certainly wait till (if ever) I fly
to determine wing heaviness.
Ben Westfall
-----Original Message-----
Does your right flap contact the frame? If so, it could be affecting the
rigging.....ask me how I know........mine was not that far down, I don't
think, but after clearing the contact area I was able to get both flaps the
same. When I was doing the final fit of the flaps after the wing was on the
airframe, I trimmed the flap without it being connected to the flap motor
and linkage. I think it cleared the frame then (close fit), but when I
connected up the linkage, after paint, it was contacting and holding the
flap down about 1 degree.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
-----Original Message-----
Thanks to all that replied to my question.
I closely examined both flaps in the reflex position over the weekend. The
left flap inside edge is perfectly aligned to the bottom of the fuse skin.
The right flap is about 1/2" lower than the fuse skin. I believe that
explains the tendency towards rolling to the left. The weird thing is that I
built both flaps side by side at the same time and didn't notice anything
usual at the time. Both were primed, so if something got flipped it had to
happen early on in the process.
I'll report back once I get the offender replaced. Hopefully, it will just
be a pain in the wallet...
Cheers,
Jay
N433RV
Message 29
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
Frame? Do you mean does the flap contact the rear wing spar in the full up reflex
position? Yes. There's ~1/8" gap between inboard edge of the flap and the fuse.
The offending flap is about 1/2 lower than the fuse at the inboard edge.
Nothing to do with the flap motor here.
For the record, I knew something was amiss even with the flaps in the wing cradle.
Called Vans and they said something like "fly it first and is and see if it's
a problem".
Ordering parts for a single flap looks like ~$500 including shipping. :-(
Jay
rene(at)felker.com wrote:
> Does your right flap contact the frame? If so, it could be affecting the
> rigging.....ask me how I know........mine was not that far down, I don't
> think, but after clearing the contact area I was able to get both flaps the
> same. When I was doing the final fit of the flaps after the wing was on the
> airframe, I trimmed the flap without it being connected to the flap motor
> and linkage. I think it cleared the frame then (close fit), but when I
> connected up the linkage, after paint, it was contacting and holding the
> flap down about 1 degree.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393201#393201
Message 30
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
I meant the inside edge and fuselage. Well, it was an idea.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of hotwheels
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 4:04 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Pesky heavy left wing
Frame? Do you mean does the flap contact the rear wing spar in the full up
reflex position? Yes. There's ~1/8" gap between inboard edge of the flap and
the fuse. The offending flap is about 1/2 lower than the fuse at the inboard
edge. Nothing to do with the flap motor here.
For the record, I knew something was amiss even with the flaps in the wing
cradle. Called Vans and they said something like "fly it first and is and
see if it's a problem".
Ordering parts for a single flap looks like ~$500 including shipping. :-(
Jay
rene(at)felker.com wrote:
> Does your right flap contact the frame? If so, it could be affecting
> the rigging.....ask me how I know........mine was not that far down, I
> don't think, but after clearing the contact area I was able to get
> both flaps the same. When I was doing the final fit of the flaps
> after the wing was on the airframe, I trimmed the flap without it
> being connected to the flap motor and linkage. I think it cleared the
> frame then (close fit), but when I connected up the linkage, after
> paint, it was contacting and holding the flap down about 1 degree.
>
> Rene' Felker
> N423CF
> 801-721-6080
>
> --
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393201#393201
Message 31
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Pesky heavy left wing |
Vans Tech Support suggested the following order to trim out heavy wing:
1. Verify current aileron rigging.
2. Add balsa wood trim tabs under right aileron and rudder. Attach with duct tape...
2. Attach gear fairings and wheel pants (rinse and repeat step 2)
3. If still no joy then consider replacing flap
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393204#393204
Message 32
| INDEX | Back to Main INDEX |
| PREVIOUS | Skip to PREVIOUS Message |
| NEXT | Skip to NEXT Message |
| LIST | Reply to LIST Regarding this Message |
| SENDER | Reply to SENDER Regarding this Message |
|
| Subject: | Re: Rear seat access |
Update:
I picked up the fish tape that Sean recommended. The head was indeed large
enough to get through the two 90 degree bends in the corrugated conduit. I
still couldn't get the end through the 1/2" opening for the antenna on the
bottom of the fuselage. I ended up making a small access door, which
probably should be there anyways to make troubleshooting antenna issues
easier down the road.
Thanks for everyone's opinions!
Bob
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of rleffler
Sent: Monday, January 28, 2013 12:24 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Rear seat access
rv@thelefflers.com>
Strasnuts wrote:
> Bob,
>
> My conduit is corrugated blue stuff. The fish tape I have works well.
> If you want I can ship to you.
>
>
> ---
If you are talking about this one, I may swing by HF on the way home
tonight. It looks like it's less expensive to purchase than ship.
My only opportunity is that the conduit comes out of the rib a few inches
forward of the hole for the antenna connector. The question will be if I
can grab it blindly through the hole? But it may be worth the try.
bob
--------
Bob Leffler
N410BL - Paint - 90% done, 90% to go stage
RV-10 #40684
<http://mykitlog.com/rleffler> http://mykitlog.com/rleffler
Read this topic online here:
<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393180#393180>
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=393180#393180
Attachments:
<http://forums.matronics.com/files/fishtape_316.jpg>
http://forums.matronics.com//files/fishtape_316.jpg
http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Other Matronics Email List Services
These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.
-- Please support this service by making your Contribution today! --
|