Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:16 AM - Re: static port (bill.peyton)
2. 05:33 AM - Re: Mounting PC680 on firewall (jkreidler)
3. 06:30 AM - Re: Gear leg stiffeners (Tim Lewis)
4. 06:36 AM - Re: Re: Mounting PC680 on firewall (Kelly McMullen)
5. 06:39 AM - Re: Re: Mounting PC680 on firewall (David Leikam)
6. 06:50 AM - Re: Gear leg stiffeners (Jim Combs)
7. 07:56 AM - Re: Gear leg stiffeners (Pascal)
8. 10:43 AM - Floorboard holes (ospreysammy)
9. 10:58 AM - Re: Floorboard holes (Michael Kraus)
10. 12:22 PM - Battery choices (Kelly McMullen)
11. 01:39 PM - Re: Battery choices (Geoff Combs)
12. 02:29 PM - Static Pressure Ports (Carroll L. Verhage)
13. 02:42 PM - Broken Wheel Pants (Carroll L. Verhage)
14. 02:46 PM - Aircraft Lifting (Carroll L. Verhage)
15. 02:47 PM - Main Gear Vibration (Carroll L. Verhage)
16. 04:32 PM - Re: Static Pressure Ports (Jerry Hansen)
17. 05:05 PM - Re: Gear leg stiffeners (Tim Lewis)
18. 05:45 PM - Re: Gear leg stiffeners (Pascal)
19. 08:04 PM - Baffling tips (woxofswa)
20. 09:29 PM - Re: Baffling tips ()
21. 09:48 PM - Re: Cabin Static Vent (Bob Turner)
22. 10:03 PM - Re: Baffling tips (woxofswa)
Message 1
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I used the Safeair static ports, which I purchased from Avery Tools, and have zero
error on our -10. They are mounted from the inside and have very nice threaded
connections, look professional and perform well.
http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=4677
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394479#394479
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting PC680 on firewall |
Dave, just a comment about letting the battery box rest on the engine mount. Consider
that over time dirt and oil will work its way into the interface between
the box and the engine mount. This slurry under pressure does a good job of
sanding away at your engine mount. This situation is a bit different than using
cushion clamps to hold something to the engine mount because the firewall
and engine mount flex differently so there is more potential for relative movement.
I would favor just mounting the box to the firewall, maybe with a backing
plate to help reinforce. I have no first hand experience with mounting a
battery on the firewall, but the practice is common in two seat RV's. Consider
heat, and vibration as cons, cable length and weight as pros. No comment from
me on W&B as I have no idea what else is being installed and where. It is
worth while to run a W&B calc based on the two locations and see what difference
it will make.
Thanks - Jason
--------
Jason Kreidler
4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
N44YH - Flying - #40617
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394484#394484
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg stiffeners |
Photos of shimmy damper fabrication and installation attached. I made
mine out of Fir, attached with strapping tape for now.
They made a huge improvement in landing roll out shimmy. Wheel
balancing did little to no good. Tire pressure at 39psi seems to be a
sweet spot on my plane.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 350 hrs
Bruce Johnson said the following on 2/15/2013 3:24 PM:
> Does anybody have a picture handy of the wood stiffeners I have heard
> about?? I have got 87 hrs on 151BJ and have never had a problem until
> today. Full fuel, two 200lb guys and wow what a shake. I dropped my
> passenger and still had a shake and then landed without one. Took off
> again and it was just a minute shake, landed with none. Weird after
> all these take offs and landings for it to start now. I am going to
> pull the fairings off and check for other things, but while I am at it
> I might put the stiffeners on. Thanks in advance
>
> Do not archive
> Bruce Johnson
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting PC680 on firewall |
I've been watching this discussion and wondering......having stuff on the
firewall, more than absolutely required seems to be undesirable, both in
limiting access to work on changing oil filter and maintaining the
magnetos, and would not seem to be an advantage for W&B given that the
original plans give a c.g.range that works. Maybe if extra stuff like air
conditioning is going in the back it might be helpful.
I've just worked on two many planes that you have to remove the battery box
from firewall to be able to service a magneto, etc. Granted the PC680 is
smaller, but I still think it would be a maintenance annoyance.
On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 6:33 AM, jkreidler
<jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>wrote:
> jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
>
> Dave, just a comment about letting the battery box rest on the engine
> mount. Consider that over time dirt and oil will work its way into the
> interface between the box and the engine mount. This slurry under pressure
> does a good job of sanding away at your engine mount. This situation is a
> bit different than using cushion clamps to hold something to the engine
> mount because the firewall and engine mount flex differently so there is
> more potential for relative movement. I would favor just mounting the box
> to the firewall, maybe with a backing plate to help reinforce. I have no
> first hand experience with mounting a battery on the firewall, but the
> practice is common in two seat RV's. Consider heat, and vibration as cons,
> cable length and weight as pros. No comment from me on W&B as I have no
> idea what else is being installed and where. It is worth while to run a
> W&B calc based on the two locations and see what difference it will make.
>
> Thanks - Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394484#394484
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Mounting PC680 on firewall |
I use the BC100-1 from B&C Specialty products. Stand it on its side in
the standard Van's try with no modification.
Plenty of power.
David Leikam
RV10
On Feb 18, 2013, at 7:33 AM, jkreidler wrote:
<jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
>
> Dave, just a comment about letting the battery box rest on the engine
mount. Consider that over time dirt and oil will work its way into the
interface between the box and the engine mount. This slurry under
pressure does a good job of sanding away at your engine mount. This
situation is a bit different than using cushion clamps to hold something
to the engine mount because the firewall and engine mount flex
differently so there is more potential for relative movement. I would
favor just mounting the box to the firewall, maybe with a backing plate
to help reinforce. I have no first hand experience with mounting a
battery on the firewall, but the practice is common in two seat RV's.
Consider heat, and vibration as cons, cable length and weight as pros.
No comment from me on W&B as I have no idea what else is being installed
and where. It is worth while to run a W&B calc based on the two
locations and see what difference it will make.
>
> Thanks - Jason
>
> --------
> Jason Kreidler
> 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI
> Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler
> N44YH - Flying - #40617
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394484#394484
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg stiffeners |
How did you attach the fir damper to the landing gear leg?
Jim Combs (N312F Flying - And painted)
Do Not Archive
On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 9:29 AM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
> Photos of shimmy damper fabrication and installation attached. I made
> mine out of Fir, attached with strapping tape for now.
>
> They made a huge improvement in landing roll out shimmy. Wheel balancing
> did little to no good. Tire pressure at 39psi seems to be a sweet spot on
> my plane.
>
> Tim
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 350 hrs
>
> Bruce Johnson said the following on 2/15/2013 3:24 PM:
>
>> Does anybody have a picture handy of the wood stiffeners I have heard
>> about?? I have got 87 hrs on 151BJ and have never had a problem until
>> today. Full fuel, two 200lb guys and wow what a shake. I dropped my
>> passenger and still had a shake and then landed without one. Took off again
>> and it was just a minute shake, landed with none. Weird after all these
>> take offs and landings for it to start now. I am going to pull the fairings
>> off and check for other things, but while I am at it I might put the
>> stiffeners on. Thanks in advance
>>
>> Do not archive
>> Bruce Johnson
>>
>>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg stiffeners |
Tim;
Very nice setup. Do you, by any chance, have the dimensions? (width, length,
Height, size of the oval for the gear leg (how deep to fit)) I know little
about woodworking, except the pine wood derby I once built, but I'll play
around with this if I know what I 'm aiming for in my garage.
Thx
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Lewis
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 6:29 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg stiffeners
Photos of shimmy damper fabrication and installation attached. I made
mine out of Fir, attached with strapping tape for now.
They made a huge improvement in landing roll out shimmy. Wheel
balancing did little to no good. Tire pressure at 39psi seems to be a
sweet spot on my plane.
Tim
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 350 hrs
Bruce Johnson said the following on 2/15/2013 3:24 PM:
> Does anybody have a picture handy of the wood stiffeners I have heard
> about?? I have got 87 hrs on 151BJ and have never had a problem until
> today. Full fuel, two 200lb guys and wow what a shake. I dropped my
> passenger and still had a shake and then landed without one. Took off
> again and it was just a minute shake, landed with none. Weird after
> all these take offs and landings for it to start now. I am going to
> pull the fairings off and check for other things, but while I am at it
> I might put the stiffeners on. Thanks in advance
>
> Do not archive
> Bruce Johnson
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Floorboard holes |
I am on page 29-20, trying to install the front floorboards and I am having a problem
getting holes to line up. All of the holes line up except for the most
outboard few holes that are common to the F-1041. The holes on the F-1041 are
about a holes width too much outboard of the holes in the F-1050 floorboard. Has
anyone else seen this or have an idea how to make it work? I am thinking about
drilling new holes as it does not seem to be structural since there are only
a few rivets holding the two together. Thanks in advance for any advice you
can give.
Sam Clark
--------
Sam Clark
Builder # 40972
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394506#394506
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Floorboard holes |
Common problem. I used a pick to align them and clecoed it. Might want to put
those clecos in first then align the rest. It was tight, but I was able to manage
getting it all aligned.
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
On Feb 18, 2013, at 1:39 PM, "ospreysammy" <helosammy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> I am on page 29-20, trying to install the front floorboards and I am having a
problem getting holes to line up. All of the holes line up except for the most
outboard few holes that are common to the F-1041. The holes on the F-1041 are
about a holes width too much outboard of the holes in the F-1050 floorboard.
Has anyone else seen this or have an idea how to make it work? I am thinking
about drilling new holes as it does not seem to be structural since there are
only a few rivets holding the two together. Thanks in advance for any advice you
can give.
>
> Sam Clark
>
> --------
> Sam Clark
> Builder # 40972
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394506#394506
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 10
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Thank you for mentioning that. It looks like the Odyssey PC925 will also
fit when turned on its side. I think some builders have used it that way.
Anyone have arguments for one or the other? The PC925 seems to be about the
same wt, a few amp hrs more than the BC-100-1 and the RG 25XL Concorde. I'd
like to have about same wt and amp hours (or more) than the Concorde which
I was leaning towards. I don't feel the PC680 has enough amp hours capacity
for my preferences, while it may be fine for other elect system designs.
On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 7:39 AM, David Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com> wrote:
> I use the BC100-1 from B&C Specialty products. Stand it on its side in
> the standard Van's try with no modification.
> Plenty of power.
>
> David Leikam
> RV10
>
>
Message 11
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I love my PC925. Works great on its side and still cranking.
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling and Design
8090 howe industrial pkwy
canal winchester, ohio 43110
614.834.5227p
614.834.5230f
<http://www.aerosportmodeling.com/> www.aerosportmodeling.com
_____
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 3:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Battery choices
Thank you for mentioning that. It looks like the Odyssey PC925 will also fit
when turned on its side. I think some builders have used it that way. Anyone
have arguments for one or the other? The PC925 seems to be about the same
wt, a few amp hrs more than the BC-100-1 and the RG 25XL Concorde. I'd like
to have about same wt and amp hours (or more) than the Concorde which I was
leaning towards. I don't feel the PC680 has enough amp hours capacity for my
preferences, while it may be fine for other elect system designs.
On Mon, Feb 18, 2013 at 7:39 AM, David Leikam <arplnplt@gmail.com> wrote:
I use the BC100-1 from B&C Specialty products. Stand it on its side in the
standard Van's try with no modification.
Plenty of power.
David Leikam
RV10
Message 12
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| Subject: | Static Pressure Ports |
I too have installed Van's static pressure ports where indicated on
the empennage to find out they gave false pressure readings. I had my
air speed indicator checked, tried shielding the ports with a cup (like
military aircraft), and placing one half of a 3/8" washer in front of
each port as recommended by a subscriber on Van's Airforce. Air speed
indicator and pitot system checked fine (no leaks). I put in an
alternate air valve under panel. Opening the Alt Air made the air speed
indicator jump from 175 mph to 195 mph. Closing it made the air speed
drop to 175 mph again. As a result, I disconnected the T-tube to each
port in the tail and it reads correctly now. I would propose letting
your static source open in the tail with a small vent (so bugs can't get
in it) and not fuss with static ports at all. Vented in the tail makes
it weather proof also.
Message 13
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| Subject: | Broken Wheel Pants |
A lot of nose wheel pants get cracked or broken on 10's. A good
fix is to make sure there is enough tire clearance (for squashed nose
wheels on nose wheel landing--I would recommend 5/8--3/4 inch
clearance), then repair with a couple layers of fiberglass and a molded
piece of .025" or .032" aluminum to fit the inside of the nose fairing.
Shape the aluminum first cutting out the tire opening. Drill your rivet
holes and counter sink. Then after applying the fiberglass with it
still wet, rivet the molded aluminum over it. Make sure you get the
aluminum attached to the vertical wall in the fairing so it has some
real support.
Message 14
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| Subject: | Aircraft Lifting |
A safe and inexpensive way to lift an aircraft is to use (3) 24" 3
ton hydraulic jacks from Harbor Freight Tools (Item # 36468-$43.00
each). Make a 3-legged bracket on a 3/8" steel plate with a ring at the
top that will hold the jack barrel in place and keep the jack from
tipping. Make a carpet padded 4x16" wooden plate to fit the ram on the
top of the jack. You can lift the plane by placing a jack under each
wing spar or next to the gear legs and under the fuselage just behind
the fire wall. You will use these jacks the rest of the airplane's life
a number of times. This is a wise investment.
Message 15
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| Subject: | Main Gear Vibration |
Linn and Bruce,
Go to matronics Archives and look up Main gear Vibration under
RV10.
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Static Pressure Ports |
Sent from my iPad
On Feb 18, 2013, at 2:29 PM, "Carroll L. Verhage" <cv93436@windstream.net> w
rote:
> I too have installed Van's static pressure ports where indicated on t
he empennage to find out they gave false pressure readings. I had my air sp
eed indicator checked, tried shielding the ports with a cup (like military a
ircraft), and placing one half of a 3/8" washer in front of each port as rec
ommended by a subscriber on Van's Airforce. Air speed indicator and pitot s
ystem checked fine (no leaks). I put in an alternate air valve under panel.
Opening the Alt Air made the air speed indicator jump from 175 mph to 195 m
ph. Closing it made the air speed drop to 175 mph again. As a result, I di
sconnected the T-tube to each port in the tail and it reads correctly now. I
would propose letting your static source open in the tail with a small vent
(so bugs can't get in it) and not fuss with static ports at all. Vented in
the tail makes it weather proof also.
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg stiffeners |
Attached is the RV-6 plans section on shimmy dampers for reference, and
a page of notes that I used in making my RV-10 dampers.
As I recall, here was my process for making a single shimmy damper:
- Start with 1"x2.5" fir, cut to the 12-13 degree angle depicted on my
drawing (two pieces, mirror image). Plan to end up with pieces 22" long.
- Mark a line on the leading edge that will result in the damper half
being 3/4" wide at the top, and about 1/2" wide at the bottom (my
drawing says 11/32", I think that's incorrect).
- With the band saw table tilted 30 degrees, cut along that line, such
that you have fabricated the leading edge of the shimmy damper half.
Repeat on the other shimmy damper half
- Cut the trailing edge to stay within the contour of the gear leg
fairing trailing edge.
- Glue the two halves together with good quality waterproof glue. Clamp
to dry.
- I taped mine to the landing gear with packing tape. I may fiberglass
it on in the future, as described in the RV-6 plans.
--
Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
RV-10 N31TD -- 350 hrs
Pascal said the following on 2/18/2013 10:55 AM:
>
> Tim;
> Very nice setup. Do you, by any chance, have the dimensions? (width,
> length, Height, size of the oval for the gear leg (how deep to fit)) I
> know little about woodworking, except the pine wood derby I once
> built, but I'll play around with this if I know what I 'm aiming for
> in my garage.
> Thx
>
> -----Original Message----- From: Tim Lewis
> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 6:29 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg stiffeners
>
> Photos of shimmy damper fabrication and installation attached. I made
> mine out of Fir, attached with strapping tape for now.
>
> They made a huge improvement in landing roll out shimmy. Wheel
> balancing did little to no good. Tire pressure at 39psi seems to be a
> sweet spot on my plane.
>
> Tim
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: Gear leg stiffeners |
Thanks!
On Feb 18, 2013, at 5:04 PM, Tim Lewis <TimRVator@comcast.net> wrote:
> Attached is the RV-6 plans section on shimmy dampers for reference, and a page
of notes that I used in making my RV-10 dampers.
>
> As I recall, here was my process for making a single shimmy damper:
> - Start with 1"x2.5" fir, cut to the 12-13 degree angle depicted on my drawing
(two pieces, mirror image). Plan to end up with pieces 22" long.
> - Mark a line on the leading edge that will result in the damper half being 3/4"
wide at the top, and about 1/2" wide at the bottom (my drawing says 11/32",
I think that's incorrect).
> - With the band saw table tilted 30 degrees, cut along that line, such that you
have fabricated the leading edge of the shimmy damper half. Repeat on the
other shimmy damper half
> - Cut the trailing edge to stay within the contour of the gear leg fairing trailing
edge.
> - Glue the two halves together with good quality waterproof glue. Clamp to dry.
> - I taped mine to the landing gear with packing tape. I may fiberglass it on
in the future, as described in the RV-6 plans.
>
> --
> Tim Lewis -- HEF (Manassas, VA)
> RV-6A N47TD -- 1104 hrs - sold
> RV-10 N31TD -- 350 hrs
>
> Pascal said the following on 2/18/2013 10:55 AM:
>>
>> Tim;
>> Very nice setup. Do you, by any chance, have the dimensions? (width, length,
Height, size of the oval for the gear leg (how deep to fit)) I know little about
woodworking, except the pine wood derby I once built, but I'll play around
with this if I know what I 'm aiming for in my garage.
>> Thx
>>
>> -----Original Message----- From: Tim Lewis
>> Sent: Monday, February 18, 2013 6:29 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Gear leg stiffeners
>>
>> Photos of shimmy damper fabrication and installation attached. I made
>> mine out of Fir, attached with strapping tape for now.
>>
>> They made a huge improvement in landing roll out shimmy. Wheel
>> balancing did little to no good. Tire pressure at 39psi seems to be a
>> sweet spot on my plane.
>>
>> Tim
>>
>
> <shimmy.pdf>
Message 19
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Here's a couple of baffling tips worth what they cost.
Those dad gum steel pop rivets are the most strenuous project of all. I grunted
more on those bad boys than installing the main gear legs.
I finally got smart and breaker bar'd my hand squeezer.
Also, I found that if I drilled the holes for those rivets at 31 instead of 30
(drill size), they secured better and didn't pull through as much.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394543#394543
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Baffling tips |
A pneumatic squeezer (even the cheap Harbor Freight one) makes those baffle rivets
way easy. JAY ROWE
---- woxofswa <woxof@aol.com> wrote:
>
> Here's a couple of baffling tips worth what they cost.
>
> Those dad gum steel pop rivets are the most strenuous project of all. I grunted
more on those bad boys than installing the main gear legs.
>
> I finally got smart and breaker bar'd my hand squeezer.
>
>
>
> Also, I found that if I drilled the holes for those rivets at 31 instead of 30
(drill size), they secured better and didn't pull through as much.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit
and FWF kit in progress.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394543#394543
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Static Vent |
I tried it today. With alternate static my indicated airspeed jumped up about 10
knots.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394550#394550
Message 22
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| Subject: | Re: Baffling tips |
jfrjr(at)roadrunner.com wrote:
> A pneumatic squeezer (even the cheap Harbor Freight one) makes those baffle rivets
way easy. JAY ROWE
> ---- woxofswa wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I have one that works great for aluminum rivets but wouldn't budge those steel
ones.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. Finishing kit and
FWF kit in progress.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394551#394551
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