Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:35 AM - Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle (bill.peyton)
2. 07:41 AM - Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle (rv10flyer)
3. 07:56 AM - Re: Cabin Static Vent (rv10flyer)
4. 10:04 AM - SkyView Autopilot Settings (Michael Kraus)
5. 10:27 AM - Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings (Carl Froehlich)
6. 10:30 AM - Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings (Jesse Saint)
7. 10:52 AM - Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings (Jae Chang)
8. 01:37 PM - Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle (Bob Turner)
9. 02:08 PM - Grab handles (Carroll L. Verhage)
10. 02:13 PM - Ground Power Attach (Carroll L. Verhage)
11. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: ground power attach (Dave Saylor)
12. 03:14 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (Carl Froehlich)
13. 05:03 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (Robin Marks)
14. 05:21 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (Linn)
15. 05:26 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
16. 06:13 PM - Re: ground power attach (Bob Turner)
17. 08:50 PM - Re: Grab handles ()
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle |
I have been flying without a handle up until last week. My dad and I built this
plane and he is 88. (Yes he still is flying!) He has a hard time getting in,
so we purchased round handles that have #10 threads threaded in the base.
We obtained them from McMaster Carr. I wanted to make sure the screws would not
bend or break, and the local hdw store handles were all smaller diameter #8
tapped holes. I installed the handles above the rear windows. Sorry I don't
have any photos.
Using Robin's method works great for getting up on the wing, unless you have a
bad knee or are older. In terms of actually getting in the cockpit, I saw a couple
of big guys @ OSH last year who had built a -10. They were using the method
of hanging on to the center brace to lower themselves into the seat. Over
time, center brace had pulled the 4 screws through the fiberglass from their
weight. My method of getting in is to put one foot on the inside surface directly
in front of the seat next to the tunnel, and then put one hand on the door
frame behind me and the other hand on the door frame in front and lower myself
in.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394654#394654
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle |
i installed drawer pulls above rear window and use them all the time. Use sticky
back sandpaper stuck to cabin top to get exact match on drawer pull mount bases.
I used #8 screws and std washers with no problems so far. The cabin top honeycomb
in the brace attach area should be dug out and filled with flox to prevent
pull through of csk screws/bushings.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394662#394662
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Static Vent |
Pressure inside my cabin is was approx 100' less than outside with all heat and
fresh air vents closed at cruise during initial test flights. When I opened alt
static switch with AP on, it pitched down. Since then, I have sealed some openings
around top of cabin at door hinges. It would also depend on whether you
had heat and/or fresh air intakes open.
My TT DFII AP has some adjustments that can be made to compensate for this problem.
--------
Wayne G.
SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011
TT= 97.6
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394664#394664
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| Subject: | SkyView Autopilot Settings |
Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings
then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes
course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings.
Thanks
-Mike Kraus
RV-4 sold :-(
RV-10 flying :-)
KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings |
Mike,
I have never changed the SkyView default setting. It has worked perfectly for
me. Any chance something else is going on?
Carl
On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:03 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings
then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes
course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 sold :-(
> RV-10 flying :-)
> KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings |
I would like them too. I haven't even messed with settings at all yet. It does
pretty good, but wanders a little.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:03 PM, Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net> wrote:
>
> Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings
then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes
course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings.
>
> Thanks
>
> -Mike Kraus
> RV-4 sold :-(
> RV-10 flying :-)
> KitFox SS7 Radial building :-)
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings |
The main thing i change has been the Sensitivity setting. Too low a
sensitivity causes the wandering. Too high causes some jerkiness esp. in
turbulence.
For smooth air lately, mine is currently set to roll sensitivity = 9 and
pitch sensitivity = 8. I think 10 was the default. This has worked well
for me in smooth air so far. I have yet to try this in turbulence. I am
hoping this is a good compromise setting for both calm air and light
turbulence.
In smooth air, higher sensitivities hold targets precisely but lower
settings cause the AP to wander too much.
In turbulent air, lower sensitivities feel smoother with some wandering
but higher sensitivities cause too much jerkiness as the AP tries to
hold its targets too aggressively.
My 2c.
Jae
--
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
do not archive
On 2/20/2013 10:29 AM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>
> I would like them too. I haven't even messed with settings at all yet. It does
pretty good, but wanders a little.
>
> Jesse Saint
> Saint Aviation, Inc.
> jesse@saintaviation.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> F: 815-377-3694
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle |
No handle, but I do have a plastic two step stepstool. The top step goes over the
aircraft step. It give passengers two steps, much wider steps, and a little
closer to the wing so the step onto the wing is easier. My short legged passengers
find it helps. Folds to fit thru the baggage door.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394701#394701
Message 9
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Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to
install. I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice
and are just the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer
pull. I mounted them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the
door opening. Their additional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a
template of the mounting holes on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size
pilot hole through each layer of the Lexan into the cabin. Make sure
these holes match the handle. Reem a little if necessary. Then drill
the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an aluminum spacer with an ID
about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 OD and 1/8 ID). Cut
the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so it stops against
the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside Lexan
surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for
each handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each
mounting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass
around the spacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan.
Align the spacers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass
harden. Permanently mount the handles using a stainless steel fender
washer inside the cabin. If the spacer is a little long, you can file
it down flush with the outside. The spacer has to be long enough to
press against the inner layer. With the spacers surrounded by
fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is removed and also
assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tightened down.
You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and the
cabin upholstery installed.
Carroll
Message 10
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| Subject: | Ground Power Attach |
Realizing it would be very inconvenient to remove the back cabin
bulkhead to jump the battery, we installed a Piper-type power plug just
aft of the baggage door across from the battery. We used a reinforcing
plate, cut shim gaskets out of aluminum and gasket material so it lies
smoothly on the outside. We sealed it with silicone. It works well and
has saved several quite frustrating efforts to remove the back panel at
the most inconvenient times to jump the battery.
RV-10 41087 N123CV
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: ground power attach |
Last time we installed an APU plug we made a batch of the doublers.
This is for the big AN connector. It comes ready to countersink and
attach. You just use the doubler for a template.
We're going to put this on the web site for sale but I thought I'd
mention it here first. It works really well. Comes with the heavy
duty doubler plate, hex stand-offs, and fiberglass push-on cover.
I like the APU plug forward of the left door so you can see if it's
plugged in before you taxi away.
Price is $100 plus shipping for the doubler, standoffs, and fiberglass cover.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
Message 12
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| Subject: | Ground Power Attach |
The rule I have is if you need to jump a battery(s) to start the engine, you
need instead to charge the battery(s) so you have it for flight.
Considering Odyssey batteries retain ~90% of charge after sitting for 6
months, there is little need to charge other than prolonged ground running
of the panel. If you leave a master on and kill the battery, you don't want
to fly until you know it will hold a charge - so again jumping for engine
start is not an option.
Most of us are heavily reliant on uninterrupted power to sophisticated
panels.
I took the easy way to provide access to connect a battery charger. Photos
attached.
Carl
Message 13
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| Subject: | Ground Power Attach |
I would like to add that it was strongly recommended to me that one not dep
end on a battery charger to support your expensive avionics when running w/
o ships power. For both my G900x & Dual G3x I use the same 14V? regulated p
ower supply. I have a small socket that plugs into the power supply for all
ground work. I am told the power supply gives a spike free juice not achie
ved by a battery charger. I don't fully understand why if one is using the
battery to buffer the load other than the possibility energizing the entire
system with dirty juice. Sorry no pix of the power supply. I know mine cos
t about $150US.
Again I am no expert but my preference is to minimize the amount of smoke c
oming out of my panel.
Robin
[cid:image001.jpg@01CE0F8B.7399C090]
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 3:14 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach
The rule I have is if you need to jump a battery(s) to start the engine, yo
u need instead to charge the battery(s) so you have it for flight. Conside
ring Odyssey batteries retain ~90% of charge after sitting for 6 months, th
ere is little need to charge other than prolonged ground running of the pan
el. If you leave a master on and kill the battery, you don't want to fly u
ntil you know it will hold a charge - so again jumping for engine start is
not an option.
Most of us are heavily reliant on uninterrupted power to sophisticated pane
ls.
I took the easy way to provide access to connect a battery charger. Photos
attached.
Carl
</b >http://www.matronic================
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- List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> http:/
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Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Attach |
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Ground Power Attach |
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: ground power attach |
I mounted a pair of banana jacks to a bracket attached to the center support behind
the aft bulkhead. They protrude forward slightly, thru a pair of small holes
in the bulkhead. Attached to the battery via an in-line fuse. For charging
only, not jump starting.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394721#394721
Message 17
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| Subject: | Re: Grab handles |
Hey Carroll,
I couldn=99t find the handles by your number online with
Lowe=99s here, but did find it at Home Depot.
Later, =93 Lew
From: Carroll L. Verhage
Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 5:08 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Grab handles
Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to
install. I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice
and are just the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer
pull. I mounted them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the
door opening. Their additional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a
template of the mounting holes on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size
pilot hole through each layer of the Lexan into the cabin. Make sure
these holes match the handle. Reem a little if necessary. Then drill
the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an aluminum spacer with an ID
about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 OD and 1/8 ID). Cut
the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so it stops against
the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside Lexan
surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for
each handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each
mounting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass
around the spacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan.
Align the spacers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass
harden. Permanently mount the handles using a stainless steel fender
washer inside the cabin. If the spacer is a little long, you can file
it down flush with the outside. The spacer has to be long enough to
press against the inner layer. With the spacers surrounded by
fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is removed and also
assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tightened down.
You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and the
cabin upholstery installed.
Carroll
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