---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 02/20/13: 17 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:35 AM - Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle (bill.peyton) 2. 07:41 AM - Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle (rv10flyer) 3. 07:56 AM - Re: Cabin Static Vent (rv10flyer) 4. 10:04 AM - SkyView Autopilot Settings (Michael Kraus) 5. 10:27 AM - Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings (Carl Froehlich) 6. 10:30 AM - Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings (Jesse Saint) 7. 10:52 AM - Re: SkyView Autopilot Settings (Jae Chang) 8. 01:37 PM - Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle (Bob Turner) 9. 02:08 PM - Grab handles (Carroll L. Verhage) 10. 02:13 PM - Ground Power Attach (Carroll L. Verhage) 11. 03:12 PM - Re: Re: ground power attach (Dave Saylor) 12. 03:14 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (Carl Froehlich) 13. 05:03 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (Robin Marks) 14. 05:21 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (Linn) 15. 05:26 PM - Re: Ground Power Attach (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) 16. 06:13 PM - Re: ground power attach (Bob Turner) 17. 08:50 PM - Re: Grab handles () ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:35:09 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle From: "bill.peyton" I have been flying without a handle up until last week. My dad and I built this plane and he is 88. (Yes he still is flying!) He has a hard time getting in, so we purchased round handles that have #10 threads threaded in the base. We obtained them from McMaster Carr. I wanted to make sure the screws would not bend or break, and the local hdw store handles were all smaller diameter #8 tapped holes. I installed the handles above the rear windows. Sorry I don't have any photos. Using Robin's method works great for getting up on the wing, unless you have a bad knee or are older. In terms of actually getting in the cockpit, I saw a couple of big guys @ OSH last year who had built a -10. They were using the method of hanging on to the center brace to lower themselves into the seat. Over time, center brace had pulled the 4 screws through the fiberglass from their weight. My method of getting in is to put one foot on the inside surface directly in front of the seat next to the tunnel, and then put one hand on the door frame behind me and the other hand on the door frame in front and lower myself in. -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394654#394654 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:41:15 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle From: "rv10flyer" i installed drawer pulls above rear window and use them all the time. Use sticky back sandpaper stuck to cabin top to get exact match on drawer pull mount bases. I used #8 screws and std washers with no problems so far. The cabin top honeycomb in the brace attach area should be dug out and filled with flox to prevent pull through of csk screws/bushings. -------- Wayne G. SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011 TT= 97.6 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394662#394662 ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 07:56:35 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Static Vent From: "rv10flyer" Pressure inside my cabin is was approx 100' less than outside with all heat and fresh air vents closed at cruise during initial test flights. When I opened alt static switch with AP on, it pitched down. Since then, I have sealed some openings around top of cabin at door hinges. It would also depend on whether you had heat and/or fresh air intakes open. My TT DFII AP has some adjustments that can be made to compensate for this problem. -------- Wayne G. SB 12/01/2009-12/01/2011 TT= 97.6 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394664#394664 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 10:04:23 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: SkyView Autopilot Settings From: Michael Kraus Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings. Thanks -Mike Kraus RV-4 sold :-( RV-10 flying :-) KitFox SS7 Radial building :-) ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:27:53 AM PST US From: Carl Froehlich Subject: Re: RV10-List: SkyView Autopilot Settings Mike, I have never changed the SkyView default setting. It has worked perfectly for me. Any chance something else is going on? Carl On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:03 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings. > > Thanks > > -Mike Kraus > RV-4 sold :-( > RV-10 flying :-) > KitFox SS7 Radial building :-) > > > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 10:30:11 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: SkyView Autopilot Settings From: Jesse Saint I would like them too. I haven't even messed with settings at all yet. It does pretty good, but wanders a little. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Feb 20, 2013, at 1:03 PM, Michael Kraus wrote: > > Does anyone have a flying -10 with a Dynon Skyview with good autopilot settings then can share? Mine works great in calm air, but chases altitude and sometimes course in turbulence more than I expect. I'm pretty site it's just settings. > > Thanks > > -Mike Kraus > RV-4 sold :-( > RV-10 flying :-) > KitFox SS7 Radial building :-) > > > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 10:52:12 AM PST US From: Jae Chang Subject: Re: RV10-List: SkyView Autopilot Settings The main thing i change has been the Sensitivity setting. Too low a sensitivity causes the wandering. Too high causes some jerkiness esp. in turbulence. For smooth air lately, mine is currently set to roll sensitivity = 9 and pitch sensitivity = 8. I think 10 was the default. This has worked well for me in smooth air so far. I have yet to try this in turbulence. I am hoping this is a good compromise setting for both calm air and light turbulence. In smooth air, higher sensitivities hold targets precisely but lower settings cause the AP to wander too much. In turbulent air, lower sensitivities feel smoother with some wandering but higher sensitivities cause too much jerkiness as the AP tries to hold its targets too aggressively. My 2c. Jae -- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 do not archive On 2/20/2013 10:29 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > I would like them too. I haven't even messed with settings at all yet. It does pretty good, but wanders a little. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 01:37:18 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin Top Grab Handle From: "Bob Turner" No handle, but I do have a plastic two step stepstool. The top step goes over the aircraft step. It give passengers two steps, much wider steps, and a little closer to the wing so the step onto the wing is easier. My short legged passengers find it helps. Folds to fit thru the baggage door. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394701#394701 ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 02:08:48 PM PST US From: "Carroll L. Verhage" Subject: RV10-List: Grab handles Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to install. I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice and are just the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer pull. I mounted them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the door opening. Their additional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a template of the mounting holes on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size pilot hole through each layer of the Lexan into the cabin. Make sure these holes match the handle. Reem a little if necessary. Then drill the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an aluminum spacer with an ID about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 OD and 1/8 ID). Cut the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so it stops against the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside Lexan surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for each handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each mounting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass around the spacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan. Align the spacers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass harden. Permanently mount the handles using a stainless steel fender washer inside the cabin. If the spacer is a little long, you can file it down flush with the outside. The spacer has to be long enough to press against the inner layer. With the spacers surrounded by fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is removed and also assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tightened down. You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and the cabin upholstery installed. Carroll ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 02:13:05 PM PST US From: "Carroll L. Verhage" Subject: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach Realizing it would be very inconvenient to remove the back cabin bulkhead to jump the battery, we installed a Piper-type power plug just aft of the baggage door across from the battery. We used a reinforcing plate, cut shim gaskets out of aluminum and gasket material so it lies smoothly on the outside. We sealed it with silicone. It works well and has saved several quite frustrating efforts to remove the back panel at the most inconvenient times to jump the battery. RV-10 41087 N123CV ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 03:12:00 PM PST US From: Dave Saylor Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: ground power attach Last time we installed an APU plug we made a batch of the doublers. This is for the big AN connector. It comes ready to countersink and attach. You just use the doubler for a template. We're going to put this on the web site for sale but I thought I'd mention it here first. It works really well. Comes with the heavy duty doubler plate, hex stand-offs, and fiberglass push-on cover. I like the APU plug forward of the left door so you can see if it's plugged in before you taxi away. Price is $100 plus shipping for the doubler, standoffs, and fiberglass cover. Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 03:14:48 PM PST US From: "Carl Froehlich" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach The rule I have is if you need to jump a battery(s) to start the engine, you need instead to charge the battery(s) so you have it for flight. Considering Odyssey batteries retain ~90% of charge after sitting for 6 months, there is little need to charge other than prolonged ground running of the panel. If you leave a master on and kill the battery, you don't want to fly until you know it will hold a charge - so again jumping for engine start is not an option. Most of us are heavily reliant on uninterrupted power to sophisticated panels. I took the easy way to provide access to connect a battery charger. Photos attached. Carl ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 05:03:40 PM PST US From: Robin Marks Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach I would like to add that it was strongly recommended to me that one not dep end on a battery charger to support your expensive avionics when running w/ o ships power. For both my G900x & Dual G3x I use the same 14V? regulated p ower supply. I have a small socket that plugs into the power supply for all ground work. I am told the power supply gives a spike free juice not achie ved by a battery charger. I don't fully understand why if one is using the battery to buffer the load other than the possibility energizing the entire system with dirty juice. Sorry no pix of the power supply. I know mine cos t about $150US. Again I am no expert but my preference is to minimize the amount of smoke c oming out of my panel. Robin [cid:image001.jpg@01CE0F8B.7399C090] From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m atronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 3:14 PM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach The rule I have is if you need to jump a battery(s) to start the engine, yo u need instead to charge the battery(s) so you have it for flight. Conside ring Odyssey batteries retain ~90% of charge after sitting for 6 months, th ere is little need to charge other than prolonged ground running of the pan el. If you leave a master on and kill the battery, you don't want to fly u ntil you know it will hold a charge - so again jumping for engine start is not an option. Most of us are heavily reliant on uninterrupted power to sophisticated pane ls. I took the easy way to provide access to connect a battery charger. Photos attached. Carl http://www.matronic================ http://forums.matronics.com - List Contribution Web generous nbsp; --> http:/ /www.matronics.com/c= ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 05:21:58 PM PST US From: Linn Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 05:26:21 PM PST US From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Ground Power Attach ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 06:13:37 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: ground power attach From: "Bob Turner" I mounted a pair of banana jacks to a bracket attached to the center support behind the aft bulkhead. They protrude forward slightly, thru a pair of small holes in the bulkhead. Attached to the battery via an in-line fuse. For charging only, not jump starting. -------- Bob Turner RV-10 QB Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=394721#394721 ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 08:50:07 PM PST US From: Subject: Re: RV10-List: Grab handles Hey Carroll, I couldn=99t find the handles by your number online with Lowe=99s here, but did find it at Home Depot. Later, =93 Lew From: Carroll L. Verhage Sent: Wednesday, February 20, 2013 5:08 PM Subject: RV10-List: Grab handles Patrick: Grab handles are nice and work well. They are easy to install. I have seen all sizes of grab handles but ones that look nice and are just the right size are Lowes' stainless 128mm BP27021-G drawer pull. I mounted them just above the rear windows 12 inches aft of the door opening. Their additional aeronautical drag is negligable. Make a template of the mounting holes on the handle. Drill a #8 screw size pilot hole through each layer of the Lexan into the cabin. Make sure these holes match the handle. Reem a little if necessary. Then drill the outer layer of the Lexan the OD of an aluminum spacer with an ID about the size of the #8 screw (I think it was 3/16 OD and 1/8 ID). Cut the spacer the length of the thickness of the Lexan so it stops against the inner layer of the Lexan and is flush with the outside Lexan surface. Mix about a tablespoon of epoxy with fiberglass filler for each handle the consistancy of peanut butter. Put 1/2 the epoxy in each mounting hole. Put a spacer in each hole so it has some fiberglass around the spacer filling up the cavity between the two layers of Lexan. Align the spacers by putting the handles back on. Let the fiberglass harden. Permanently mount the handles using a stainless steel fender washer inside the cabin. If the spacer is a little long, you can file it down flush with the outside. The spacer has to be long enough to press against the inner layer. With the spacers surrounded by fiberglass, it will stay in place when the handle is removed and also assure you don't collapse the shell when the handle is tightened down. You can add handles after you have your 10 built and flying and the cabin upholstery installed. Carroll ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.