Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 11:08 AM - Finishing Kit Substitution Costs (Dave Fritzsche (Building))
2. 11:30 AM - Re: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs (Pascal)
3. 02:19 PM - Step intallation (Carlos Trigo)
4. 03:11 PM - Re: Step intallation (Rick Lark)
5. 03:35 PM - Re: Step intallation (bill.peyton)
6. 06:49 PM - Firewall insulation (Ed Godfrey)
7. 07:04 PM - cabin top trimming data point (Rick Lark)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Finishing Kit Substitution Costs |
I pretty much went with the list of substitutions suggested on Tim's
site and this list. My windshield and back side windows came with the
fuselage kit I already had. I chose to delete the two door windows for
which Van's credited me $110 each. The door windows from Dresser cost
$150 each. Van's credited me $100.38 for the nose wheel. MATCO charged
130.49 for the nose wheel. Van's credited me $68 each for the main gear
tires and $52.40 for the nose wheel tire. Dresser charge $69 each for
the main gear retreads and $69.95 for the nose wheel retread. Thus
these were not direct cost substitutes, but the nose wheel is a must and
I hope the windows are worth the difference and I understand the tires
wear longer. I thought this might be of interest to those at this stage
of the build.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs |
Dave;
I helped Desser with the front window/windscreen another builder with the
sides- they fit perfectly versus having to do all the trimming to make it
fit. The quality of Cee baileys is also better than that sent from Vans.
Keep in mind that you may pay more for the windows, Matco and tires but you
are far better off for it. In the end you really saved a whole lot of time
and eventually money as the parts you replaced from the Vans parts will last
far longer.
I make nothing on this, but believe me I worked with Desser/Cee Baileys
because the windows are lacking from Vans and the product Desser came up
with was based on thriving for perfection and a perfect fit "as is". Until
you have put the windows on and off 20 times to get the gap right one would
not understand the advantage of having a nearly perfect fitting piece on
arrival. I tossed my windscreen as I had a "bulge" on the co-pilot side and
used the Desser version that was rounded and tight fitting throughout.
Thanks for the feedback!
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: Dave Fritzsche (Building)
Sent: Monday, March 11, 2013 11:07 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing Kit Substitution Costs
<dfritz@bpgsim.com>
I pretty much went with the list of substitutions suggested on Tim's
site and this list. My windshield and back side windows came with the
fuselage kit I already had. I chose to delete the two door windows for
which Van's credited me $110 each. The door windows from Dresser cost
$150 each. Van's credited me $100.38 for the nose wheel. MATCO charged
130.49 for the nose wheel. Van's credited me $68 each for the main gear
tires and $52.40 for the nose wheel tire. Dresser charge $69 each for
the main gear retreads and $69.95 for the nose wheel retread. Thus
these were not direct cost substitutes, but the nose wheel is a must and
I hope the windows are worth the difference and I understand the tires
wear longer. I thought this might be of interest to those at this stage
of the build.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Fuselage
Message 3
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| Subject: | Step intallation |
Hi there
On the QB fuselage, I came to the conclusion that most of the step
installation work is already done, you only have to insert the step and
final-drill the vertical hole for the AN3-20A bolt.
My problem is that, with the existing pilot holes aligned, neither the
45 =BC=94
distance (between the aft edge of the wing attachment bulkhead and the
leading edge of the step) indicated in fig. 2 of page 30-3 is good (I
have
around 1=94 more), nor the weld at the top of the step sits flush with
the
skin=85
Should I change anything to mate those 2 conditions, or can I just
final-drill the hole like it is?
Thanks
Carlos
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Step intallation |
Carlos, I only had pilot holes in the powder coated support, not the step
tube, so I slid the steps in as far as required to get the right
dimension. Also search the archives as lots of later builders are putting
in a solid plug in the step tube, and then drilling through the whole
assembly to help keep the bolt from lossening up over time. See Bob
Newmans web site for details.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Mon, Mar 11, 2013 at 5:18 PM, Carlos Trigo <trigo@mail.telepac.pt> wrote
:
> Hi there****
>
> ** **
>
> On the QB fuselage, I came to the conclusion that most of the step
> installation work is already done, you only have to insert the step and
> final-drill the vertical hole for the AN3-20A bolt.****
>
> ** **
>
> My problem is that, with the existing pilot holes aligned, neither the 45
> =BC=94 distance (between the aft edge of the wing attachment bulkhead and
the
> leading edge of the step) indicated in fig. 2 of page 30-3 is good (I hav
e
> around 1=94 more), nor the weld at the top of the step sits flush with th
e
> skin=85****
>
> ** **
>
> Should I change anything to mate those 2 conditions, or can I just
> final-drill the hole like it is?****
>
> ** **
>
> Thanks****
>
> Carlos ****
>
> *
>
===========
===========
===========
===========
> *
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Step intallation |
Are you sure you have the correct step on the correct side ? Also, you may want
to create an access plate for the bolt in case it loosens up or the weld cracks.
I believe bob Newman sells an insert for the step as Rick has posted above
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396048#396048
Message 6
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| Subject: | Firewall insulation |
All,
I am trying to make a decision as to a decent method of firewall
insulation. I have looked through the arhives and have seen where some
have used a Fiberfrax type of material and some have used a foam
material. Is there anything that might not be a good idea to use bot the
Fiberfrax as a thermal insulation and a foam insulation for acoustic?Any
thoughts would be greatly appreciated.
Ed Godfrey
40717
Message 7
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| Subject: | cabin top trimming data point |
Guys, I started trimming the cabin top today and made 2 discoveries. 1) as
others have found normal jig saw blades dull incredibly quickly. 2) I also
tried a carbide jig saw blade I purchased years ago to cut ceramic tile.
This blade was mounted in my Makita jig saw and worked great. I completed
all the rough trimming in probably a 1/2 hour, and with little dust
compared to a rotary tool.
Unfortunately I have no idea where I purchased this blade now but if you
can find one, give it a try.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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