Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:48 AM - Re: Cabin heat control knobs (Carlos Trigo)
2. 04:23 AM - Re: Disabling front cabin heat? (Linn)
3. 05:21 AM - Re: Re: Panel design (Marcus Cooper)
4. 05:29 AM - Re: Disabling front cabin heat? (nukeflyboy)
5. 05:32 AM - Re: Disabling front cabin heat? (Jesse Saint)
6. 06:45 AM - Re: Disabling front cabin heat? (Rob Kochman)
7. 08:10 AM - Re: Disabling front cabin heat? (bill.peyton)
8. 08:50 AM - Steel Fittings FWF - Which coating? (Sean Stephens)
9. 10:00 AM - Re: Steel Fittings FWF - Which coating? (charliewaffles)
10. 12:44 PM - Re: Cabin heat control knobs (hotwheels)
11. 02:01 PM - Re: Disabling front cabin heat? (Gordon Anderson)
12. 02:25 PM - Main landing gear leg dimension (Pascal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Cabin heat control knobs |
Jesse
Will you please send me a picture of your setup.
Thanks
Carlos
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: quarta-feira, 20 de Mar=C3=A7o de 2013 23:16
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin heat control knobs
I put these controls and the air filter bypass on a plate that attached
to the rear of the panel with screws from the front. The knobs fit
through an oval hole cut in the panel. Otherwise the controls will have
to be removed if you want to take the panel out. Makes service much
easier.
Sent from my iPad
On Mar 20, 2013, at 2:14 PM, "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
wrote:
Regarding the cabin heat system, I have a couple of questions:
- Where did you put the control knobs of the cables which control
the rear and front cabin heat?
Is it good to put the front heat control knob in the instrument panel,
and the rear heat control knob behind the front seats, thus leaving this
control (only) reachable by the rear passengers?
- Those of you who used the modified =9CT=9D (VA175),
in order to have left / right control, where did you put the control
knob for this feature?
Cheers
Carlos
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Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Disabling front cabin heat? |
On 3/20/2013 11:54 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Has anyone disabled the front cabin heat in their RV-10? I'm finding
> that even on really cold days, I only need partial rear heat to keep
> things warm, and I never use the front heat, since I want to minimize
> heat behind the panel. In the warm summer months, I don't want all
> that hot air blowing on the firewall. I don't think I can just
> disconnect the air hose to the muff, since the exhaust pipe would
> probably get too hot. If nothing else, I figure I could disconnect
> the air hose between the muff and firewall at the firewall and just
> point it down toward the cowl exit. Of course, I would have to seal
> the hole in the firewall.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks...
You can block off some of the hole going to the heat muff with
metal-tape for winter and cover it all during summer. Or you can route
around the heat muff during summer so you get cool air through the heat
vents. I wouldn't worry about overheating that exhaust pipe ......
Linn
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Panel design |
One other tip in case it helps. I used the plastic covers for switches to make
them easily identifiable and layer them in an order that makes sense to me.
I used red for power (battery and alternator), green for avionics (cause they
cost a lot of money), blue for fuel pump, white for lights and yellow for pitot
heat. This way a quick glance and I'm ready for any phase be it engine start,
takeoff or shutdown.
Cheers,
Marcus
On Mar 20, 2013, at 7:37 PM, "Dick & Vicki Sipp" <rsipp@earthlink.net> wrote:
In addition to Bob's excellent advice, when it comes to switch layout; think about
a logical order of switch usage i.e. going down a row rather than jumping
around when running the checklist.
Also consider where the important autopilot power switch and fuel pump switches
will be; these should readily available and easily reached. Finally the primary
flight display should be as close to centered in front of the pilots head as
possible. Looking cross cockpit at the flight display will bug you. Stay away
from unconventional arrangements; most certified panels are similar for a
reason, they work. A good conventional panel will add much to your enjoyment
of the airplane and add to resale value.
Dick Sipp
470 hours
Dick Sipp
-----Original Message----- From: Bob Turner
Sent: Wednesday, March 20, 2013 3:32 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Panel design
Don't forget to sit in the real airplane, in the actual flying seating position,
and look at paper cutouts on the panel. You can check the ease and feel as you
reach for things; that nothing important is hidden under the glare shield;
and that important things like the PFD are in focus (important for me as I wear
bifocals!).
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396678#396678
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| Subject: | Re: Disabling front cabin heat? |
I have disabled mine for the summer months too. I disconnected the SCAT tube so
hot air no longer blows on the firewall. I also blocked the vent adapter at
the baffle to prevent any bypass air flow around the cylinders. It helped a
bit and I would not worry about the exhaust pipes.
--------
Dave Moore
RV-6 flying
RV-10 QB - flying
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396730#396730
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Disabling front cabin heat? |
Rob,
Not all exhaust pipes even have heat muffs. I can't imagine it getting too h
ot there and being ok with the temperature along the rest of the exhaust. I'
d leave it off completely. Instead, you might hook it up as normal and just c
over over the hole in the baffles so you could easily add it if you want to.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Mar 20, 2013, at 11:54 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
> Has anyone disabled the front cabin heat in their RV-10? I'm finding that
even on really cold days, I only need partial rear heat to keep things warm
, and I never use the front heat, since I want to minimize heat behind the p
anel. In the warm summer months, I don't want all that hot air blowing on t
he firewall. I don't think I can just disconnect the air hose to the muff, s
ince the exhaust pipe would probably get too hot. If nothing else, I figu
re I could disconnect the air hose between the muff and firewall at the fire
wall and just point it down toward the cowl exit. Of course, I would have t
o seal the hole in the firewall.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Disabling front cabin heat? |
Thanks, guys... my concern is that with no airflow into the muff, it's
acting as an insulator on the exhaust pipe. Perhaps it's nothing to worry
about, though.
-Rob
On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 5:32 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>wrote:
> Rob,
>
> Not all exhaust pipes even have heat muffs. I can't imagine it getting too
> hot there and being ok with the temperature along the rest of the exhaust.
> I'd leave it off completely. Instead, you might hook it up as normal and
> just cover over the hole in the baffles so you could easily add it if you
> want to.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 20, 2013, at 11:54 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Has anyone disabled the front cabin heat in their RV-10? I'm finding that
> even on really cold days, I only need partial rear heat to keep things
> warm, and I never use the front heat, since I want to minimize heat behind
> the panel. In the warm summer months, I don't want all that hot air
> blowing on the firewall. I don't think I can just disconnect the air hose
> to the muff, since the exhaust pipe would probably get too hot. If
> nothing else, I figure I could disconnect the air hose between the muff and
> firewall at the firewall and just point it down toward the cowl exit. Of
> course, I would have to seal the hole in the firewall.
>
> Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks...
>
> -Rob
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
> *
>
> ==================================
> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> ===================================cs.com
> ===================================matronics.com/contribution
> ==================================
> *
>
> *
>
> *
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>
--
Rob Kochman
RV-10 Flying since March 2011
Woodinville, WA
http://kochman.net/N819K
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Disabling front cabin heat? |
I spoke with Vetterman on this subject. His advice was adamant, do not just disconnect
the air going through the muff. It will get to hot in that one area,
but to remove the heat muff completely and install a heat shield on the exhaust
tubing as necessary to keep the heat away from the cowl.
It is my belief that the air outlet at the rear of #6 cylinder actually helps the
cooling of #6 by not allowing stagnant air to dam at the rear of the baffle.
On the right side, #5 is always the hottest cylinder, and the fix is to allow
more air to escape either around #5 or through the rear.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396743#396743
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| Subject: | Steel Fittings FWF - Which coating? |
I am a bit confused by all the different coatings available on the steel
AN fittings. I ordered some steel fittings from ACS, but they were not
as pictured and were black. I don't think they have a coating at all.
I've seen some that are zinc and some that are yellow dichromate.
Which ones are suitable for use as fuel line fittings firewall forward?
Or does it even really matter and my un-coated steel fittings are fine?
Thanks,
-Sean #40303
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Steel Fittings FWF - Which coating? |
All my FWF Steel fittings are uncoated. There are some that are black coated -
these appear to be from the racing world and are acceptable in experimental.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396750#396750
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin heat control knobs |
photo attached...
Cheers,
Jay
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=396759#396759
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/hpim0946_872.jpg
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Disabling front cabin heat? |
Rob,
I think your concern is valid. The muff will insulate the exhaust pipe
and you may end up with a high temperature gradient between the section
outside the muff and inside it, possibly resulting in deformation or
cracking after a while. Since cracking would release exhaust into the
cowl area, it could become a real concern. Personally I would keep the
cool air supply to the muff and dump the hot air coming out of it. Since
that is what happens in the stock system when the heater flap valve is
closed, I don't follow why you want to disable it at all, rather than
just not use it. If I really wanted to disable it I would probably just
disconnect the control cable and use Biotherm to seal the flap in the
closed position.
Gordon Anderson
On Mar 21, 2013, at 2:44 PM, Rob Kochman wrote:
> Thanks, guys... my concern is that with no airflow into the muff, it's
acting as an insulator on the exhaust pipe. Perhaps it's nothing to
worry about, though.
>
> -Rob
>
>
> On Thu, Mar 21, 2013 at 5:32 AM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
wrote:
> Rob,
>
> Not all exhaust pipes even have heat muffs. I can't imagine it getting
too hot there and being ok with the temperature along the rest of the
exhaust. I'd leave it off completely. Instead, you might hook it up as
normal and just cover over the hole in the baffles so you could easily
add it if you want to.
>
> Jesse Saint
> I-TEC, Inc.
> jesse@itecusa.org
> www.itecusa.org
> www.mavericklsa.com
> C: 352-427-0285
> O: 352-465-4545
> F: 815-377-3694
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Mar 20, 2013, at 11:54 PM, Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Has anyone disabled the front cabin heat in their RV-10? I'm finding
that even on really cold days, I only need partial rear heat to keep
things warm, and I never use the front heat, since I want to minimize
heat behind the panel. In the warm summer months, I don't want all that
hot air blowing on the firewall. I don't think I can just disconnect
the air hose to the muff, since the exhaust pipe would probably get too
hot. If nothing else, I figure I could disconnect the air hose
between the muff and firewall at the firewall and just point it down
toward the cowl exit. Of course, I would have to seal the hole in the
firewall.
>>
>> Anyone have any suggestions? Thanks...
>>
>> -Rob
>>
>> --
>> Rob Kochman
>> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
>> Woodinville, WA
>> http://kochman.net/N819K
>>
>>
>> =========
>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========
>> cs.com
>> =========
>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========
>>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> --
> Rob Kochman
> RV-10 Flying since March 2011
> Woodinville, WA
> http://kochman.net/N819K
>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Main landing gear leg dimension |
Can someone who does not have the landing gear strut pants on, measure
the width of the leg for me? I think it is 2=9D but need
confirmation.
Thank you!
Pascal
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