Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:02 AM - PP ZOT 04/04 2013 (Roberto Brito)
2. 06:24 AM - Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 (bill.peyton)
3. 09:08 AM - Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 (Geoff Combs)
4. 09:17 AM - Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 (Robin Marks)
5. 09:20 AM - Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 (Jae Chang)
6. 12:40 PM - Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 (Bob Turner)
7. 01:05 PM - AEROLED RFI - was RV8-List: Landing/Taxi Light Options (Carl Froehlich)
8. 01:59 PM - Finishing door frame and bodywork (Gordon Anderson)
9. 02:10 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Rene Felker)
10. 02:42 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Bob Leffler)
11. 08:09 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Dave Saylor)
Message 1
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| Subject: | PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
Hello Guys,
My new toy flew yesterday, almost 4 years after start.
Beautiful plane!!
Thank you Geoff Combs (Aerosportproducts)
Rgds.
Beto.
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
Congratulations on your flight. You have a gorgeous looking RV-10!
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397895#397895
Message 3
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| Subject: | PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
Roberto Congrats.
The plane looks awesome. Love the paint scheme. Enjoy the ride. The RV-10
is a great airplane
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Products
8090 howe industrial pkwy
canal winchester, ohio 43110
614.834.8659p
www.aerosportproducts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roberto Brito
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 8:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: PP ZOT 04/04 2013
Hello Guys,
My new toy flew yesterday, almost 4 years after start.
Beautiful plane!!
Thank you Geoff Combs (Aerosportproducts) Rgds.
Beto.
Message 4
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| Subject: | PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
Agreed! Well done Roberto!
Robin
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 9:08 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: PP ZOT 04/04 2013
--> <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
Roberto Congrats.
The plane looks awesome. Love the paint scheme. Enjoy the ride. The RV-10 is a
great airplane
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Products
8090 howe industrial pkwy
canal winchester, ohio 43110
614.834.8659p
www.aerosportproducts.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Roberto Brito
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 8:01 AM
Subject: RV10-List: PP ZOT 04/04 2013
Hello Guys,
My new toy flew yesterday, almost 4 years after start.
Beautiful plane!!
Thank you Geoff Combs (Aerosportproducts) Rgds.
Beto.
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
Wow, beautiful plane!
Jae
--
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: PP ZOT 04/04 2013 |
Nice airplane!
You obviously have different rules there than in the US (passenger on board).
Do you have anything equivalent to the US phase 1?
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=397909#397909
Message 7
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| Subject: | AEROLED RFI - was RV8-List: Landing/Taxi Light Options |
On the AeroLED choice, I found the wingtip NAV/Strobe units create a lot of
RFI, the nav light much more than the strobe. Dean Wilkinson at AeroLED was
helpful however, and provided recommendations on how to limit the
interference. Bottom line:
. Use three conductor, 20 gauge shielded wire, the shield grounded
to the airframe at both ends of the run.
. At the unit itself, install a aluminum plate on the inside of the
wingtip - the plate is held in via the AeroLED mounting screws.
. Connect the unit's black ground wire to this plate - and then the
electric ground from your three conductor shielded lead to the same point.
The objective is to make the black ground wire on the AEROLED electrically
connected to the unit case with as short a lead as possible. The case
electrically connects to the aluminum backing plate via the mounting screws.
Don't just ground at the mounting screw without the aluminum plate - I tried
this and it did not work.
After doing all this I eliminated the noise to a point where it is no longer
a problem in the radios. I do however have my nav antenna in the wingtip.
With the nav LED on, I do hear the interference but it is not bad. I
mounted the wingtip nav antenna as far aft in the wingtip as possible. I
still hear VORs out 90+ miles so I'm good. Considering I don't use VORs for
much of anything this really has no practical impact.
Below is the photo Dean sent me of what one of his customer did (I recommend
a bigger backing plate however). I attached a photo of what I did.
BTW - the units themselves work very well. This is still a much better way
to go over the old incandescent lights and strobe tubes.
Carl
RV-8A (700 hrs)
RV-10 (70 hrs)
http://imageshack.us/a/img713/2052/img2180t.jpg
From: owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv8-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of stazel@cpros.com
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 2:59 PM
Subject: RV8-List: Landing/Taxi Light Options
I would like some feedback on this subject as it is one of the loose ends in
planning my electrical system. I have settled on AeroLED for the position
lights/strobes, but am having difficulty sorting through all the
landing/taxi light options. Plan A would be to use LED lights in the tips,
but I am not sure what all will or will not fit there. Although I
understand that leading edge lights are an easy installation, I would just
prefer not to incur the additional work to do the leading edge cutouts.
Another question: Given the landing attitude of the 8, are separate
landing and taxi lights required? Seems to me that maybe a combination of
the right output and targeting angle could work using single light sources
in each tip.
Stan Loer
RV8 QB
Message 8
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| Subject: | Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Hi folks,
I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on
how to do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week
after the paint job is finished.
Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing
around the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the
level of the area between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it
matches the door outer surface?
Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid
etch the aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside
the red tape in the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over
the screws, edges and blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping /
falling out in case of poor bonding.
I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for
the filler in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent.
What is the experience using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched
aluminum without using the cloth / tape?
ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under
rivet heads and not being flushed out properly?
Any and all comments gratefully received!
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
Message 9
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| Subject: | Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I sanded.....that area of my plane looks good..but don't use me as an
example of how to do the windows..they look like _______ fill in the blank.
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Gordon Anderson
Sent: Friday, April 05, 2013 2:58 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Finishing door frame and bodywork
Hi folks,
I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on how
to do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week after the
paint job is finished.
Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing
around the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the level of
the area between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it matches the
door outer surface?
Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid etch
the aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside the red
tape in the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over the screws,
edges and blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping / falling out in case
of poor bonding.
I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for the
filler in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent. What is
the experience using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched aluminum
without using the cloth / tape?
ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under
rivet heads and not being flushed out properly?
Any and all comments gratefully received!
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I too was very anxious when I was at your stage of the build. It's most fear of
the unknown and learning a new skill. I was fortunate enough that fiberglass
sanding was something my wife did almost exclusively.
I didn't etch, but do make sure everything is clean and scuffed up. That will
give the epoxy something to hold
Only use micro to fill cosmetic voids. If you need to build something up, like
the flat spot that appears to be on all canopies ( rear door frame in the middle
of window).
I did fill the heads of the blind rivets and the gap between the aluminum with
micro to level, then covered with a layer of glass. I did something similar around
the windows too. Then just use micro to level and blend the two surfaces.
You don't want to build up around the vent. Make sure smooth out forward and above
the vents. Otherwise it's going to be very visible.
I do have pictures on mykitlog.com site, but I don't know how helpful they will
be.
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 5, 2013, at 4:57 PM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrote:
Hi folks,
I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on how to
do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week after the paint
job is finished.
Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing around
the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the level of the area
between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it matches the door outer
surface?
Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid etch the
aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside the red tape in
the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over the screws, edges and
blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping / falling out in case of poor bonding.
I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for the filler
in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent. What is the experience
using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched aluminum without using the
cloth / tape?
ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under rivet
heads and not being flushed out properly?
Any and all comments gratefully received!
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
<IMG_1004.jpeg>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Hi Gordon,
You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or
similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer of
glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the
cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider using
something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
on.
I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
Good Luck,
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Fri, Apr 5, 2013 at 1:57 PM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrote:
> Hi folks,
>
> I am psyching myself up for some bodywork and am looking for guidance on
> how to do this properly so the filler doesn't all flake off the week after
> the paint job is finished.
>
> Can anyone recommend or point me towards the magic recipe for finishing
> around the edges of the door frame and fuselage and for raising the level
> of the area between the door frame and the rear cabin vents so it matches
> the door outer surface?
>
> Without any better insight I am currently intending to phosphoric acid
> etch the aluminum wherever filling is required (ie. everywhere inside the
> red tape in the photo), and then to bond a thin fiberglass tape over the
> screws, edges and blind rivets to prevent any filler chipping / falling out
> in case of poor bonding.
>
> I am also considering a thin layer of glass cloth as a foundation for the
> filler in the larger area above, below and in front of the vent. What is
> the experience using epoxy / micro filler directly on etched aluminum
> without using the cloth / tape?
>
> ANd finally, should I be worried about the phosphoric acid getting under
> rivet heads and not being flushed out properly?
>
> Any and all comments gratefully received!
>
> Gordon Anderson
> 41015 Switzerland
>
>
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