Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:27 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Bill Watson)
2. 03:10 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Dave Saylor)
3. 03:16 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Dave Saylor)
4. 04:10 PM - RV10 maintenance tip (DLM)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing.
It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so
fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
Bill
On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Hi Gordon,
>
> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>
> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil
> or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly
> in sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for
> a number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives
> you a break ;-)
>
> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
> layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the
> window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to
> show up there.
>
> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic.
> I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked
> cotton). The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to
> overlay that with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain
> epoxy before the flox goes on.
>
> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be
> a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm
> not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I use polyester filler (Bondo from the auto parts store) here and there,
especially when I need to hurry things along. But only in small areas,
because it's relatively heavy, and then I always overlay it with glass.
While I don't have any long-term test results, my sense is that bondo
tends to shrink over time and cause the paint to crack. I'm not too
concerned if that happens underneath a layer of glass, in non-structural
areas. For example, I sometimes use micro/epoxy as a replacement for foam
or honeycomb core, but I wouldn't use bondo there for fear it might
eventually delaminate from the outer skins.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
> the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's
> much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So
> far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Hi Gordon,
>
> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>
> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or
> similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
> sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
> of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>
> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer
> of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the
> cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>
> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
> suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
> flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
> on.
>
> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
> little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
> familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/06/13
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing
fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc,
pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is
relatively easy to break free and sand off.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
> the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's
> much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So
> far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> Hi Gordon,
>
> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>
> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or
> similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
> sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
> of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>
> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer
> of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the
> cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>
> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
> suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
> flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
> on.
>
> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
> little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
> familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>
> Good Luck,
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>>
>>
>>
>>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 04/06/13
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | RV10 maintenance tip |
When I built my 10, the plans called for construction of 4 spacers each
wheel made from aluminum tubing. these spacers were compressed between the
brake torque plate and the inboard wheel pant bracket. Over time these ,
since they are thin walled tubes, compress and the disc rotor did not always
run true. This seems to cause an occasional shaking in the brake rotor or
brake pad wear is not uniform. I just installed a Matco main wheel/brake
setup. As a result, the spacing between the bracket and the torque plate
changed slightly and I had to purchase new spacers. I got them from McMaster
Carr. They are OD 1/2" ID 1/4" .750 in length; these seemed to allow
completely true running of the rotors and calipers and no occasional
vibration. The wall thickness of the spacers was 1/8". My original
wheel/brakes were the Cleveland 199-104 set.
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