---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 04/06/13: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:27 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Bill Watson) 2. 03:10 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Dave Saylor) 3. 03:16 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Dave Saylor) 4. 04:10 PM - RV10 maintenance tip (DLM) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:27:04 PM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing door frame and bodywork Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying. Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up? Bill On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > Hi Gordon, > > You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions-- > > You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil > or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly > in sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for > a number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives > you a break ;-) > > If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a > layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the > window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to > show up there. > > For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider > using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. > I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked > cotton). The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to > overlay that with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain > epoxy before the flox goes on. > > I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like > Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be > a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm > not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me. > > Good Luck, > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 CL > > > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:10:30 PM PST US From: Dave Saylor Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing door frame and bodywork I use polyester filler (Bondo from the auto parts store) here and there, especially when I need to hurry things along. But only in small areas, because it's relatively heavy, and then I always overlay it with glass. While I don't have any long-term test results, my sense is that bondo tends to shrink over time and cause the paint to crack. I'm not too concerned if that happens underneath a layer of glass, in non-structural areas. For example, I sometimes use micro/epoxy as a replacement for foam or honeycomb core, but I wouldn't use bondo there for fear it might eventually delaminate from the outer skins. Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on > the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's > much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So > far so good after a 1.5 years of flying. > > Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up? > > Bill > > On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > Hi Gordon, > > You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions-- > > You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or > similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in > sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number > of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-) > > If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer > of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the > cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there. > > For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider > using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd > suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The > flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with > filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes > on. > > I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like > Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a > little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not > familiar with the process so maybe that's just me. > > Good Luck, > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 CL > >> >> >> >> > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 04/06/13 > > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 03:16:16 PM PST US From: Dave Saylor Subject: Re: RV10-List: Finishing door frame and bodywork One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is relatively easy to break free and sand off. Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson wrote: > Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on > the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's > much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So > far so good after a 1.5 years of flying. > > Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up? > > Bill > > > On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote: > > Hi Gordon, > > You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions-- > > You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil or > similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in > sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number > of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-) > > If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a layer > of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and the > cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there. > > For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider > using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd > suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The > flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with > filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes > on. > > I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like > Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a > little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not > familiar with the process so maybe that's just me. > > Good Luck, > > Dave Saylor > 831-750-0284 CL > >> >> >> >> > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > 04/06/13 > > > * > > * > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 04:10:33 PM PST US From: "DLM" Subject: RV10-List: RV10 maintenance tip When I built my 10, the plans called for construction of 4 spacers each wheel made from aluminum tubing. these spacers were compressed between the brake torque plate and the inboard wheel pant bracket. Over time these , since they are thin walled tubes, compress and the disc rotor did not always run true. This seems to cause an occasional shaking in the brake rotor or brake pad wear is not uniform. I just installed a Matco main wheel/brake setup. As a result, the spacing between the bracket and the torque plate changed slightly and I had to purchase new spacers. I got them from McMaster Carr. They are OD 1/2" ID 1/4" .750 in length; these seemed to allow completely true running of the rotors and calipers and no occasional vibration. The wall thickness of the spacers was 1/8". My original wheel/brakes were the Cleveland 199-104 set. ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.