Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:17 AM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Gordon Anderson)
2. 11:09 AM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Dave Saylor)
3. 12:56 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Gordon Anderson)
4. 01:22 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Pascal)
5. 02:32 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (P Reid)
6. 04:22 PM - Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork (Linn)
7. 10:29 PM - A Plane is born (Les Kearney)
8. 10:31 PM - Re: A Plane is born (Les Kearney)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Thanks for the comments and support.
Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans
under the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
Cheers,
Gordon
On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for
gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables,
etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and
is relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
wrote:
> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing.
It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so
fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>
> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>
> Bill
>
>
> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>> Hi Gordon,
>>
>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>
>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil
or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a
number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you
a break ;-)
>>
>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the
window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to
show up there.
>>
>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic.
I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton).
The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that
with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the
flox goes on.
>>
>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something
like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd
be a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but
I'm not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 04/06/13
>>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your etch
solution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant something
like Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing I'd bother
with it for a little bodywork--I've had good success with just a light
scuff and degreasing. I >would< use it under the windshield fairing since
that area is more critical.
I hope that clears things up a little.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrote:
> Thanks for the comments and support.
>
> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans under
> the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gordon
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing
> fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc,
> pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is
> relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrote:
>
>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on
>> the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's
>> much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So
>> far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>
>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>> Hi Gordon,
>>
>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>
>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil
>> or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in
>> sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number
>> of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>
>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
>> layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window
>> and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up
>> there.
>>
>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
>> using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd
>> suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The
>> flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
>> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
>> on.
>>
>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like
>> Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a
>> little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not
>> familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>
>> Good Luck,
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>> 04/06/13
>>
>>
>> *
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-Listtp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>> *
>>
>>
> *
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Dave,
Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use
phosphoric acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it altogether
for the small bodywork areas and try to get hold of some Alumiprep or
alodine for the windshield fairing.
Thanks for the advice,
Gordon
On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your
etch solution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant
something like Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing
I'd bother with it for a little bodywork--I've had good success with
just a light scuff and degreasing. I >would< use it under the
windshield fairing since that area is more critical.
>
> I hope that clears things up a little.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch>
wrote:
> Thanks for the comments and support.
>
> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans
under the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>
> Cheers,
>
> Gordon
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for
gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables,
etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and
is relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
wrote:
>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially
on the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing.
It's much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so
fast. So far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>
>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>
>> Bill
>>
>>
>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>
>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>
>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like
SuperFil or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but
mostly in sanding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with
for a number of reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it
gives you a break ;-)
>>>
>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a
layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the
window and the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to
show up there.
>>>
>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider
using something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic.
I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton).
The flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that
with filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the
flox goes on.
>>>
>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something
like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd
be a little concerned about getting all the etching material off--but
I'm not familiar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>
>>> Good Luck,
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> No virus found in this message.
>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>> 04/06/13
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
I used vinegar and scorchb
On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:54 PM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use phosphori
c acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it altogether for the small
bodywork areas and try to get hold of some Alumiprep or alodine for the win
dshield fairing.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Gordon
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your etch s
olution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant something li
ke Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing I'd bother with i
t for a little bodywork--I've had good success with just a light scuff and d
egreasing. I >would< use it under the windshield fairing since that area is
more critical.
>>
>> I hope that clears things up a little.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrot
e:
>> Thanks for the comments and support.
>>
>> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans under
the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluing f
ixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc, pretty
regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is relatively ea
sy to break free and sand off.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wrot
e:
>>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially on t
he glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It's m
uch easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. So f
ar so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>>
>>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>>
>>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>>
>>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFil o
r similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in sand
ing off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number of r
easons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>>>
>>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a laye
r of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and th
e cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>>>>
>>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider usi
ng something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd sugg
est a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). T
he flox leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with f
iller too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes on
.
>>>>
>>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something like S
cotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a littl
e concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not familiar
with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>>
>>>> Good Luck,
>>>>
>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>> 04/06/13
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronic
s.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/c
ontribution
>>
>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
Try this again
I used vinegar abs scotchbrite pads to rough up the areas that were primed f
or resin and eventually paint. Seems to have worked well. One must assure th
e area is cleaned before putting anything on. Soap and water than eventually
acetone for resin prep.
Sent from my iPad
On Apr 7, 2013, at 1:26 PM, "Pascal" <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote:
> I used vinegar and scorchb
>
>
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:54 PM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wrote:
>
>> Dave,
>>
>> Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use phosphor
ic acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it altogether for the smal
l bodywork areas and try to get hold of some Alumiprep or alodine for the wi
ndshield fairing.
>>
>> Thanks for the advice,
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your etch s
olution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant something li
ke Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't thing I'd bother with i
t for a little bodywork--I've had good success with just a light scuff and d
egreasing. I >would< use it under the windshield fairing since that area is
more critical.
>>>
>>> I hope that clears things up a little.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch> wro
te:
>>>> Thanks for the comments and support.
>>>>
>>>> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by Vans und
er the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>>>>
>>>> Cheers,
>>>>
>>>> Gordon
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for gluin
g fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to tables, etc, pre
tty regularly. Works great for that since it sets up fast and is relatively
easy to break free and sand off.
>>>>>
>>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com> wr
ote:
>>>>>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do, especially o
n the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler for the final smoothing. It'
s much easier to use and much more productive because it hardens so fast. S
o far so good after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>>>>>
>>>>>> Bill
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>>>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler like SuperFi
l or similar instead of making your own. Not just in mixing but mostly in s
anding off the excess. Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number o
f reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives you a break ;-)
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it with a l
ayer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond line between the window and
the cabin top you'll prevent the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might consider u
sing something tougher than filler. That area sees a lot of traffic. I'd su
ggest a fairly stiff mixture of flox (also called flocked cotton). The flox
leaves a hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with filler t
oo. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy before the flox goes
on.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with something li
ke Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be more than adequate. I'd be a l
ittle concerned about getting all the etching material off--but I'm not fami
liar with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Good Luck,
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>>>>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>>>>>> 04/06/13
>>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>>
>>>>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>>>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>>>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>>>>
>>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>> 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3
D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=
3D
>>>>
>>>
>>>
>>>
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matroni
cs.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
>>> href="http://www.matronics.com/contribution">http://www.matronics.com/
contribution
>>
>>
>>
>> =========================
=========
>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========================
=========
>> cs.com
>> =========================
=========
>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========================
=========
>>
>
>
==========================
=========
==========================
=========
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Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Finishing door frame and bodywork |
The phosphoric acid (Aluminum etch, aluminum bright etc.) cleans the
surface of the aluminum and removes some of the natural corrosion
present. Alodine is a conversion material that seals the aluminum and
makes the surface harder to resist the corrosion down the road. You
should clean with soap and water (dish soap works wonders) and some
downey fabric softener .... which helps the aluminum wet out, along with
red scotchbrite. Then acid etch and alodine. The alodine also gives a
little 'tooth' to help paint adhere.
This process has worked wonders for me for many years.
Linn
On 4/7/2013 3:54 PM, Gordon Anderson wrote:
> Dave,
>
> Actually I had intended to take Van's at their word and just use
> phosphoric acid with a water wash afterwards. I'll skip it
> altogether for the small bodywork areas and try to get hold of some
> Alumiprep or alodine for the windshield fairing.
>
> Thanks for the advice,
>
> Gordon
>
> On Apr 7, 2013, at 8:08 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>
>> Gordon, I'm sorry, I misspoke. For no good reason I imagined your
>> etch solution as a home brew of your own making. Duh, you just meant
>> something like Alumiprep, which we use regularly. I still don't
>> thing I'd bother with it for a little bodywork--I've had good success
>> with just a light scuff and degreasing. I >would< use it under
>> the windshield fairing since that area is more critical.
>>
>> I hope that clears things up a little.
>>
>> Dave Saylor
>> 831-750-0284 CL
>>
>>
>> On Sun, Apr 7, 2013 at 2:17 AM, Gordon Anderson <mregoan@hispeed.ch
>> <mailto:mregoan@hispeed.ch>> wrote:
>>
>> Thanks for the comments and support.
>>
>> Dave, do you also skip the phosphoric acid etch recommended by
>> Vans under the windscreen fairing (Page 45-18 step 9)?
>>
>> Cheers,
>>
>> Gordon
>>
>>
>> On Apr 7, 2013, at 12:15 AM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>
>>> One other thing--we probably use bondo a lot more often just for
>>> gluing fixtures together. We glue tables to the floor, parts to
>>> tables, etc, pretty regularly. Works great for that since it
>>> sets up fast and is relatively easy to break free and sand off.
>>>
>>> Dave Saylor
>>> 831-750-0284 <tel:831-750-0284> CL
>>>
>>>
>>> On Sat, Apr 6, 2013 at 2:26 PM, Bill Watson
>>> <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com <mailto:Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>> wrote:
>>>
>>> Question for Dave and others; one thing I started to do,
>>> especially on the glass pieces, is to use polyester filler
>>> for the final smoothing. It's much easier to use and much
>>> more productive because it hardens so fast. So far so good
>>> after a 1.5 years of flying.
>>>
>>> Recommended? Do others do this? How has it held up?
>>>
>>> Bill
>>>
>>>
>>> On 4/5/2013 11:05 PM, Dave Saylor wrote:
>>>> Hi Gordon,
>>>>
>>>> You're on the right track. A couple of suggestions--
>>>>
>>>> You'll save a ton of work if you use a pre-mixed filler
>>>> like SuperFil or similar instead of making your own. Not
>>>> just in mixing but mostly in sanding off the excess.
>>>> Premixed is a lot easier to deal with for a number of
>>>> reasons. SuperFil takes a long time to cure but it gives
>>>> you a break ;-)
>>>>
>>>> If you add more than about 3/32" of filler, then overlay it
>>>> with a layer of glass cloth. If you glass over the bond
>>>> line between the window and the cabin top you'll prevent
>>>> the common cracks that tend to show up there.
>>>>
>>>> For the low spot between the window and the door you might
>>>> consider using something tougher than filler. That area
>>>> sees a lot of traffic. I'd suggest a fairly stiff mixture
>>>> of flox (also called flocked cotton). The flox leaves a
>>>> hard and rough surface so leave room to overlay that with
>>>> filler too. Be sure to wet the base with plain epoxy
>>>> before the flox goes on.
>>>>
>>>> I would forgo the aluminum etching. A light scuff with
>>>> something like Scotchbrite pads and degreasing should be
>>>> more than adequate. I'd be a little concerned about
>>>> getting all the etching material off--but I'm not familiar
>>>> with the process so maybe that's just me.
>>>>
>>>> Good Luck,
>>>>
>>>> Dave Saylor
>>>> 831-750-0284 <tel:831-750-0284> CL
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> No virus found in this message.
>>>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com/>
>>>> 04/06/13
>>>>
>>>
>>> *
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>>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>>
>>>
>>> *
>>
>> *
>>
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>> *
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>> href="http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> href="http://forums.matronics.com/">http://forums.matronics.com
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Message 7
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Hi
After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for
his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass
seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to
build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building
process. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite
literally pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
Message 8
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| Subject: | RE: A Plane is born |
Hi Again
I almost forgot - A very Special Thanks to David Maib with whom I did my
transition training! He is an outstanding instructor.
Cheers
Les
From: Les Kearney [mailto:kearney@shaw.ca]
Sent: April-07-13 11:28 PM
Subject: A Plane is born
Hi
After 6 years and 178 days, RV10 C-GCWZ took to the air at Camrose Airport
in Alberta, Canada.
I would like to thank all the usual suspects but especially Tim Olson for
his website, Matt Dralle for this list and Dave Saylor for his fiberglass
seminar. Thanks to all those who answered my cries for help. Learning how to
build a plane is harder and perhaps takes longer than the actual building
process. Having access to the collective wisdom of this group was quite
literally pricesless. In every sense you were my build partners.
Cheers
Les Kearney
#40-643 Now Flying!!!!!!!
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