Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:51 AM - Re: Re: power settings (Kelly McMullen)
2. 09:16 AM - Re: Re: Door locks (Rick Lark)
3. 11:22 AM - Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts (Mike Whisky)
4. 03:07 PM - Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts (Bob Turner)
5. 08:46 PM - Canopy Cutting Made Easy! (Matt Dralle)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: power settings |
Perhaps. But I see far too many CFIs giving advice about engine
operation/management when they don't have any personal knowledge beyond
what their instructors told them. Repeating old wives tales doesn't count
as experience in my book.
My point is that I have never seen any data to assert that there is the
least bit of risk or increased risk by making engine or flap changes, or
gear changes on retracts once you have a positive rate of climb and 50 ft
or more altitude. I'd love to see some data. I don't believe it exists at
this time.
Perhaps if you have an unairworthy throttle or mixture control cable setup,
and retarding them causes a disconnect or jam, you might be facing a
partial power situation, but engine and flight controls are the areas that
your DAR should be giving special attention to on their inspection, and so
should you every time the cowling is off.
Kelly
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 11:01 PM, Robin Marks <robin@painttheweb.com> wrote:
>
> My friends recommendation was specific to my RV and not to aircraft like a
> DC6 or maybe even the G550 he will take to Russia on 12 hours notice. if
> you are not touching anything but the 3 degrees of flap before 800-1000'
> AGL than i might as well abide by his recommendation for another 10 seconds
> before making those changes.
> While I don't believe everything I read or hear when a craftsman in their
> chosen industry gives me a safety tip I give it extra weight.
>
> Robin
> Sent from the new iPad
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
Message 2
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Hello Carl
Thx for the info with regards to the tubular cam locks. I checked out the
Fort Lock locks, mostly from Grainger. I plan to go and order 3 keyed
alike locks tomorrow. Since you mentioned you have a push to start engine
switch, do you have a schematic you'd care to share showing how the switch
and ignition is wired? My engine has 2 impulse coupled Slick Mags if
that's matters. I haven't taken the time to search for a wiring diagram yet
but I do need to start thinking about it.
I liked your description of having a "start permissive" switch in line. If
you know of any other place I could find some "push to start" please let me
know.
Thx for any help.
Regards, Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 9:55 AM, Carl Froehlich
<carl.froehlich@verizon.net>wrote:
> I use tubular key locks on planes as I find it is much harder to break of
f
> a round key compared to a flat key. I don=92t lock the canopy/doors as I
=92d
> rather have something stolen out of the panel instead of damage from
> forcing a lock. I also do not use an ignition key other than a =93start
> permissive=94 key in series with the starter button. This prevents someo
ne
> from spinning the prop with the starter. For me spam can type single key
> start/mag select switches are a source of unacceptable single point failu
re
> risk ' and not compatible with redundant power distribution schemes.***
*
>
> ** **
>
> Both planes use Fort Lock MFW1038-80 (as example) cam locks for the
> baggage door. These are made in America with heavy nickel plating. They
> are sold under a variety of brand names and run less than $10 each.****
>
> ** **
>
> Carl****
>
> ** **
>
> *From:* owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:
> owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] *On Behalf Of *Rick Lark
> *Sent:* Saturday, April 27, 2013 8:43 AM
> *To:* rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Subject:* Re: RV10-List: Re: Door locks****
>
> ** **
>
> Aha, that's exactly what I need to know. Thx Jim. I did go to Home Depo
t
> and buy 3- 5/8" cam locks but I then decided they were too poor a quality
> to put in an airplane. I went to ACS and checked out their locks and I
> then went to a local locksmith. He had better keyed locks, but he also ha
s
> the tubular cam locks which are way better design, quality etc. Of cours
e
> they're more money too. I intend to use a push to start switch in my pla
ne
> thus I don't need a keyed ignition switch.****
>
> Thx for every ones help.****
>
> Rick****
>
> ** **
>
> On Sat, Apr 27, 2013 at 12:33 AM, Jim Berry <jimberry@qwest.net> wrote:**
*
> *
>
>
> My door locks are the same length as the baggage lock. If you want
> everything keyed alike, you can special order a keyed ignition switch and
3
> door/baggage locks from ACS.
>
> Jim Berry
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399466#399466
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
Could someone please be so kind and check on the VOR Bob Archer antenna the screw/nut
size on which the ring-terminals of the RG antenna cable will be attached?
I will need to order these nuts and won't be in the hangar until Wednesday.
Thanks
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (final assembly)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399537#399537
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts |
Mike I am not at the airport so I cannot answer your question. My memory is that
they were either 4-40 or 6-32.
If I were you I would just go down to a hardware store and buy the closest metric
equivalent screw and lock nut that I could find, enlarging the hole if needed.
Certainly nothing critical here.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399543#399543
Message 5
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| Subject: | Canopy Cutting Made Easy! |
The first step with any Van's canopy installation is cutting the plexiglass bubble
out of the molding frame. For me, this went smoothly mostly thanks to an awesome
tool called a "Roto-Zip" that is available from a local Lowes hardware
store. I have a right-angle cut-off wheel attachment for it. I can't remember
if this came with it or if I bought it separately as an accessory. In either case,
it is a must have for this Plexi cutting. I got some 3.5" "metal cutting
wheels" for it and I have to say it is the cat's meow when it comes to cutting
the canopies out. The tool has plenty of power and doesn't bog down, yet it is
very controllable and accurate cutting is pretty easy. Don't get me wrong, this
is definitely a manly tool and it requires a fair amount of respect. But it
has just the right weight and fits nicely in your hand. The right-angle attachment
can be unlatched and spun in any direction in relation to the handle and
cord, which is really nice. Highly recommend!
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
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