RV10-List Digest Archive

Mon 04/29/13


Total Messages Posted: 5



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 02:00 AM - Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts (Mike Whisky)
     2. 05:16 AM - Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts (bill.peyton)
     3. 06:22 AM - Re: Canopy Cutting Made Easy! (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
     4. 06:53 AM - Re: power settings (Jesse Saint)
     5. 06:58 AM - Re: power settings (Kelly McMullen)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 02:00:12 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts
    From: "Mike Whisky" <rv-10@wellenzohn.net>
    Hi Bob, the antenna is already installed and riveted under the nut plates, so I can#t remove the screws and replace them with metric ones. Mike -------- RV-10 builder (final assembly) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399589#399589


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:16:28 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Bob Archer Antenna RG cable attachment nuts
    From: "bill.peyton" <peyton.b@sbcglobal.net>
    Bob Archers email is as follows: bobsantennas@earthlink.net -------- Bill WA0SYV Aviation Partners, LLC Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=399591#399591


    Message 3


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    Time: 06:22:45 AM PST US
    From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net
    Subject: Re: Canopy Cutting Made Easy!
    Good tip. But I am more impressed with your carpeted work shop! David Clifford RV-10 Builder Howell, MI ----- Original Message ----- From: "Matt Dralle" <dralle@matronics.com> Sent: Sunday, April 28, 2013 11:44:31 PM Subject: RV10-List: Canopy Cutting Made Easy! The first step with any Van's canopy installation is cutting the plexiglass bubble out of the molding frame. For me, this went smoothly mostly thanks to an awesome tool called a "Roto-Zip" that is available from a local Lowes hardware store. I have a right-angle cut-off wheel attachment for it. I can't remember if this came with it or if I bought it separately as an accessory. In either case, it is a must have for this Plexi cutting. I got some 3.5" "metal cutting wheels" for it and I have to say it is the cat's meow when it comes to cutting the canopies out. The tool has plenty of power and doesn't bog down, yet it is very controllable and accurate cutting is pretty easy. Don't get me wrong, this is definitely a manly tool and it requires a fair amount of respect. But it has just the right weight and fits nicely in your hand. The right-angle attachment can be unlatched and spun in any direction in relation to the handle and cord, which is really nice. Highly recommend! - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 150+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode


    Message 4


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    Time: 06:53:44 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: power settings
    From: Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>
    If I am light and climbing 1500+fpm, I sometimes leave things alone because the MP will come down quickly enough. Otherwise, I takeoff with flaps in reflex, full power, mixture full rich (at or near sea level), at about 1,000 ft AGL I pull power to 25" and prop to 2500rpm (sometimes leave it in, but our engine is redline at 2575rpm anyway), add MP to maintain 25" in the climb until I'm full rich, then leave it there, leaning to the low 1300's on EGT during climb. In cruise, I really like 20" 2400rpm and 10.5 gph or so, unless I'm in a great big hurry. On descent, if I'm high, I move mixture to 12gph, keep pulling MP back to 20" as I descend and prop at 2200rpm. Mixture and Prop go full in as I approach the pattern. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. jesse@saintaviation.com C: 352-427-0285 F: 815-377-3694 On Apr 27, 2013, at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote: > > just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the climb? > also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent) > > Alan > N668G 205 hrs > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 06:58:20 AM PST US
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    Subject: Re: power settings
    Am I missing something? My understanding is that the C4B5 engine or close variants are rpm limited only by the certified airframes they were installed in....such as Aztec or Comanche 250, and that there was no reason not to increase the governor limit to 2700. Perhaps Rhonda can educate me. On 4/29/2013 6:53 AM, Jesse Saint wrote: > > If I am light and climbing 1500+fpm, I sometimes leave things alone because the MP will come down quickly enough. Otherwise, I takeoff with flaps in reflex, full power, mixture full rich (at or near sea level), at about 1,000 ft AGL I pull power to 25" and prop to 2500rpm (sometimes leave it in, but our engine is redline at 2575rpm anyway), add MP to maintain 25" in the climb until I'm full rich, then leave it there, leaning to the low 1300's on EGT during climb. In cruise, I really like 20" 2400rpm and 10.5 gph or so, unless I'm in a great big hurry. On descent, if I'm high, I move mixture to 12gph, keep pulling MP back to 20" as I descend and prop at 2200rpm. Mixture and Prop go full in as I approach the pattern. > > Jesse Saint > Saint Aviation, Inc. > jesse@saintaviation.com > C: 352-427-0285 > F: 815-377-3694 > > On Apr 27, 2013, at 6:20 AM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote: > >> >> just curious does anybody reduce power after takeoff or use pull power for the climb? >> also what mp and rpm do you use in cruise(altitude dependent) >> >> Alan >> N668G 205 hrs >> >> >> >> > > ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com




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