Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 04:20 AM - Re: Routing electrical conduit (Carlos Trigo)
2. 02:40 PM - doors (Rick Lark)
3. 02:47 PM - Re: doors (Phil Perry)
4. 02:57 PM - Re: doors (Seano)
5. 04:38 PM - Re: doors (Jesse Saint)
6. 04:59 PM - Re: doors (Les Kearney)
7. 05:19 PM - Re: doors (Linn Walters)
8. 05:32 PM - Re: doors (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
9. 06:22 PM - Re: doors (Rick Lark)
10. 08:03 PM - Re: doors (Robin Marks)
11. 08:46 PM - Re: doors (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
12. 09:37 PM - Re: doors (Robin Marks)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Routing electrical conduit |
Thanks Carl
That is exactly what I needed to know!
Cheers
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: domingo, 16 de Junho de 2013 20:12
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
The attached photos are the only ones I can find that have more detail. The
conduit ends after it goes forward through the side rib lighting holes (the
ones where I installed the large grommets). Forward of that the runs just
use snap bushings like Van's has in his plans. I think I had to add one
additional hole on one side.
Note - there is no way to get all the wires and such past the panel bulkhead
just using the left side (with the supplied cover plate) per the planes. I
ran a 1" or so wire bundle up the inside of the last right side rib then
past the panel bulkhead in the side channel. I slightly enlarged the panel
notch that straddles the side channel for added clearance. I used some
plastic mesh conduit for this run. Most of it is hidden behind the little
side cover plate (photos #8 & #9).
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carlos Trigo
Sent: Sunday, June 16, 2013 12:57 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
Carl
Indeed 1 image is better than a thousand words!... Thanks
However in your 2nd picture one cannot see how the 3 conduits pass through
the F-1004 C & D Center section bulkheads (the plans show only two 5/8"
holes), or did you stop the conduits there and only continued the electric
wires forward of those bulkheads?
Do you have a picture that shows forward of those bulkheads?
Carlos
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Carl Froehlich
Sent: sexta-feira, 14 de Junho de 2013 12:09
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Routing electrical conduit
I didn't use the Van's electrical kit but here is how I ran the three
conduits on each side. Note - where these lines pass through the rear seat
pan or ribs I used an adhesive to make sure there was no relative motion
between the corrugated conduit and the aluminum. On the side lightning
holes I added large rubber grommets in the lighting holes.
I figured I needed two runs on each side, but added a third just in case. I
ended up using it. I have the two ADHRS modules mounted aft of the baggage
compartment as most do, so they have two 1/4" lines from the wing going aft
(pitot and AOA) and two going from aft up to the panel (pitot and static) as
I have a couple of analog gauges in the panel. All wire and tubing runs are
in the conduit including the #2 welding cable from both masters to the
starter solenoid.
Carl
RV-8A (sold last week)
RV-10, 95 hrs
Message 2
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Hi all. I can=92t seem to find in the archives if this question has been
asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has
anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I
have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave
the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40
clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from
flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes
.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
Message 3
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I think you will want both halves together for the hinge fitting. The doors
are going to morph around enough that the hinges would likely bind later.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 4:40 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
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Message 4
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Rick,
Personally I would wait until the halves are together before drilling the hi
nges. They change a lot during the process and the other skin will affect th
em.
Sent from my iPhone
On Jun 23, 2013, at 15:40, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
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Message 5
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I agree with this as well. Wait until door halves are bonded to install hing
es.
Sent from my iPad
On Jun 23, 2013, at 5:57 PM, Seano <sean@braunandco.com> wrote:
> Rick,
> Personally I would wait until the halves are together before drilling the h
inges. They change a lot during the process and the other skin will affect t
hem.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Jun 23, 2013, at 15:40, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question ha
s been asked before.
>>
>> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>>
>> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>>
>> Rick
>> #40956
>> Southampton, Ont
>>
>>
>> =========================
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>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> =========================
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>> cs.com
>> =========================
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>> matronics.com/contribution
>> =========================
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>>
>
>
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Message 6
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Hi Rick
The doors are a major pain. The fit WILL change SS you go through the fittin
g process. I installed the billet handles after the fact. It was not a big d
eal. The doors and the fitting is a big job.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
On 2013-06-23, at 3:40 PM, Rick Lark <larkrv10@gmail.com> wrote:
> Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to b
e bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has an
yone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I hav
e just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the d
oor halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 cleco
es around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
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Message 7
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The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had
filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As
it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and
then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much
time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hi all.I cant seem to find in the archives if this question has been
> asked before.
>
> Ihave my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to
> be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the
> hinges.Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the
> hinge install?I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and
> would like to leave the door halves separate for the time being.My
> concern is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are
> sufficient to keep the door from flexing as I position it in the
> opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed.Thx.
>
> Rick
>
> #40956
>
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 8
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That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strat
egically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in
and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type
foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can def
orm the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with so
me micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled t
he voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I pla
n on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning
up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has b
een asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyo
ne not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have
just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the do
or halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoe
s around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
06/23/13
==
Message 9
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Hey thx to all that replied. I expected that bonding the doors first would
be the general consensus. I guess the Plane Around latch is easy enough to
install after the fact. I like the idea of using low expansion foam in any
voids. I will take a good look before I do the bonding and figure out
where to drill some holes.
Regards, Rick
On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 8:32 PM, <davidsoutpost@comcast.net> wrote:
> That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several
> strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam
> can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal
> expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes,
> otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and fi
ll
> in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where t
he
> pin rods go through.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> ------------------------------
> *From: *"Linn Walters" <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
> *To: *rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Sent: *Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
> *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: doors
>
> The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had fille
d
> the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I
> plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then
> cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
> Linn
>
> On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
>
> Hi all. I can=92t seem to find in the archives if this question has bee
n
> asked before.
>
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to
> be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Ha
s
> anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install?
I
> have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave
> the door halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the
> #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door fro
m
> flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment hol
es.
>
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
>
> Rick
>
> #40956
>
> Southampton, Ont
>
> *
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/23/13
>
>
> *
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> *
>
> *
>
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> *
>
>
Message 10
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Message 11
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Foam adds very little weight to the door, stiffens the door considerably an
d there should not be any exterior openings for water to enter if you drill
your filling holes on the interior side of the doors and plug them when yo
u are done. All of the Rutan based plans built aircraft such as the Long-EZ
and Cozy are made of foam sandwiched by fiberglass. Here's an old demo vid
eo from Burt himself. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=7eUt0YnNF3o
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Robin Marks" <robin@PaintTheWeb.com>
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 11:03:08 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: doors
So no issue with added weight or the potential of retaining moisture or wat
er in the filled doors?
Robin
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@m
atronics.com] On Behalf Of davidsoutpost@comcast.net
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 5:32 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several strat
egically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the foam can in
and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal expansion" type
foam and let the access foam out the injection holes, otherwise it can def
orm the door skins. When cured just clean out and fill in the holes with so
me micro. I had to pick some of the foam out where the pin rods go through.
David Clifford
RV-10 Builder
Howell, MI
----- Original Message -----
From: "Linn Walters" < flying-nut@cfl.rr.com >
Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had filled t
he voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As it is I pla
n on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and then cleaning
up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much time.
Linn
On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
Hi all. I can=99t seem to find in the archives if this question has b
een asked before.
I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are to be
bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges. Has anyo
ne not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge install? I have
just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would like to leave the do
or halves separate for the time being. My concern is whether the #40 clecoe
s around the window opening are sufficient to keep the door from flexing as
I position it in the opening to drill the hinge attachment holes.
Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
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