Today's Message Index:
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1. 06:40 AM - Re: doors (bill.peyton)
2. 01:44 PM - Re: doors (Gordon Anderson)
3. 02:24 PM - Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping (bcondrey)
4. 10:53 PM - Re: doors (Jackm)
Message 1
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Rick,
It would not be wise to try to drill the hinges until after the doors are bonded.
I installed foam inside the doors in selected areas for insulating purposes.
I also was able to install the center door latch prior to bonding the second
door. It actually was a lot easier. The only thing you need to be aware of
with the center door latch is to make sure it is installed no lower than what
is called out in the instructions. A little higher, like 1/16", is better.
The reason for this is the latching cam will rub on the Mcmaster-Carr trim as
the door closes, and once it is bonded in place there is no way to change it.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
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Message 2
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For stiffening the doors I would also recommend filling the epoxy with
flox and not cab-o-sil (p45-05, step 5) as suggested in the plans. I
tried both. With micro it was easy and oh so amusing to pull the door
halves apart. The flox is rock solid and noticeably stiffer.
After bonding you can use a high power light (e.g. 150W flood lamp) to
backlight the joint and spot if you left any voids. It helps to leave
one void deliberately to calibrate your inspection process ;-)
Cheers,
Gordon
41015 Switzerland
On Jun 24, 2013, at 3:22 AM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hey thx to all that replied. I expected that bonding the doors first
would be the general consensus. I guess the Plane Around latch is easy
enough to install after the fact. I like the idea of using low
expansion foam in any voids. I will take a good look before I do the
bonding and figure out where to drill some holes.
> Regards, Rick
>
>
> On Sun, Jun 23, 2013 at 8:32 PM, <davidsoutpost@comcast.net> wrote:
> That is what I did and it helps to stiffen them up. I drilled several
strategically located 1/4" holes so that I could fit the tube of the
foam can in and filled up the cavities. Make sure you use the "minimal
expansion" type foam and let the access foam out the injection holes,
otherwise it can deform the door skins. When cured just clean out and
fill in the holes with some micro. I had to pick some of the foam out
where the pin rods go through.
>
> David Clifford
>
> RV-10 Builder
> Howell, MI
>
> From: "Linn Walters" <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Sunday, June 23, 2013 8:19:06 PM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: doors
>
> The doors are flimsy even when the halves are bonded. I wish I had
filled the voids with blue foam before I bonded the halves together. As
it is I plan on injecting expanding foam through holes in the doors and
then cleaning up the mess. Just another departure that takes up so much
time.
> Linn
>
> On 6/23/2013 5:40 PM, Rick Lark wrote:
> Hi all. I can=92t seem to find in the archives if this question has
been asked before.
>
> I have my door halves roughed out and am at the stage where they are
to be bonded together before the plans direct you to install the hinges.
Has anyone not bonded the door halves and proceeded with the hinge
install? I have just purchased the Plane Around centre latch and would
like to leave the door halves separate for the time being. My concern
is whether the #40 clecoes around the window opening are sufficient to
keep the door from flexing as I position it in the opening to drill the
hinge attachment holes.
>
> Any / all opinions are welcomed. Thx.
>
> Rick
> #40956
> Southampton, Ont
>
>
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> 06/23/13
>
>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: 2013 RV-10 Airventure Group Camping |
It was pointed out to me that the original post had a typo on the email address.
I corrected that but just to restate, the correct email address should be:
condreyb (at) gmail (dot) com.
If you sent an email to that address about camping at Airventure this year, please
resend to me. I understand that "Barry" (owner of the incorrect email address)
has been good enough to redirect at least one person...
Bob
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Message 4
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Rick,
I agree with all the above...one thing I would add is when you go to cleco your
door skins to the fuse, One,make sure your cabin top is bolted to fuse in place
as you would on final install and Two DO NOT use the two fore and aft dimple
index to fix the doors to the fuse during epoxy fit. I found the indicator dimples
to be aprox 3/16 to high on the door on ours. You will find the doors will
be too low when you go trim to the cabin top opening. I did this on left door
and had to roll the complete door up to get adequate clearance between the
lower jam and door. You don't want this as you formed the door to fit the cabin
top curve. Right side we built spacers for the lower and sides to fit between
the jam and door inner ledge. Remember to add the door skins thickness dim
to the spacer as the door needs to drop down to be flush with the cabin top when
you trim door to fit the opening. This will also ensure that Seans latch will
clear the lower jam when you install them. Hope this makes sense....I almost
threw away the left door after I realized what I did.
--------
Jackm
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