Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:17 AM - Re: Re: alodine (Patrick Pulis)
2. 08:47 AM - Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation (dhmoose)
3. 08:57 AM - Re: Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation (Linn Walters)
4. 09:38 AM - Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation (dhmoose)
5. 12:22 PM - Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover (Carl Froehlich)
6. 12:29 PM - Re: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover (Seano)
7. 01:07 PM - Re: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover (Pascal)
Message 1
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I initially sourced mine through John Johanson, however he's no longer in business.
Try Henkell and I think there agent is at Lonsdale here in Adelaide. Tell them
you'd prefer the crystals to mix up yourself.
They also sell the Deoxidine phosphoric acid pre-etch.
You should purchase a box of 3M maroon scouring pads from Weber Abrasives here
in Adelaide.
If you need any further information or ad advice, please call me (Mob: 0418 850
156).
Warm regards
Patrick
On 13/07/2013, at 18:57, "palark" <palark@tpg.com.au> wrote:
>
> Patrick,
> I am very interested in where you source your alodine and deoxidine. I am in
Loxton SA.
>
> Roger
>
> palark(at)tpg.com.au
>
> [quote="rv10free2fly(at)yahoo.com"]Bill,
>
>
> I keep the alodine solution in a 20 litre container and top up the crystal concentration
when I notice the dip time is starting to get longer to achieve the
same level of coating.
>
>
> I always prepare the parts by scrubbing them with a maroon 3M Scotchbrite pad
in a solution of 'Deoxidine' (a Henkel product), just scrub enough to get the
shine off the aluminium, then fresh water rinse and air dry before dipping in
the alodine solution.
>
>
> I use a storage water heater overflow tray, which is about 1.5" deep & about
4' in diameter to dip the large parts. The advantage of this tray is that it has
a plastic ball valve plumbed into the tray and allows me to easily decant the
solution back into the storage container for reuse. I use black plastic irrigation
fittings and pipe which attach to the ball valve. Can send you pictures.
>
>
> For longer, slender parts, I've made up a long bath using 6" diameter PVC sewer
pipe with caps each end and another plastic ball valve fitted as described
above.
>
>
> I've cut the top 2" off the entire length of the pipe to allow you to sit the
pipe horizontally on an old pallet. Great for long parts and gives a solution
depth of about 4".
>
>
> Please ensure that you read the Material Safety Data Sheet for the alodine more
so, as its toxic stuff.
>
>
> I've seen guys also use wheelie bins as dip baths and lowering parts in with
tie wire and suspending them from some dowel placed across the bin opening. Doing
this means you'll need a lot of solution and the bin is very heavy to move.
I get away with 20 litres, which is stored when not required.
>
>
> Yell out if you need any more info. Google the Henkel site for technical advice.
>
> Warm regards from Oz.
>
> Patrick
>
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
>
>
> On 08/02/2013, at 3:15 AM, "Billy Britton" wrote:
>
>
>
>> A while back I recall a thread about alodine and where to get it. This
particular post I remember was about a powder form. I've searched aircraft
spruce and cannot find a powder form of alodine. Can anybody tell me where
I might find it? Also, Ive never done the alodine before. What prep is required
of the parts before using the alodine?
>>
>> Thanks
>> Bill
>>
>>>
>>>
>>> ==================================
>>> ://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>>> ==================================
>>> cs.com
>>> ==================================
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>>> ==================================
>>
>> [b]
>
>
> --------
> Roger
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404588#404588
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
I re-read AC43.13 and didn't find any mention of a limit to the length of safety
wire that can be used. I simply brought the wire from bolt to bolt in a typical
arrangement and the span looks to be about 3". Is this a problem? Seems ok
to me.
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404667#404667
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
There's no doubt that shorter is better. The longer the span the
'potential' for loosening becomes greater.
So, ask yourself what the consequences of that (those) particular
fasteners loosening a little.
This could be an 'experiment' so get back to us ......
IMHO, of course.
Linn
On 7/14/2013 11:46 AM, dhmoose wrote:
>
> I re-read AC43.13 and didn't find any mention of a limit to the length of safety
wire that can be used. I simply brought the wire from bolt to bolt in a typical
arrangement and the span looks to be about 3". Is this a problem? Seems
ok to me.
>
> --------
> David Halmos
> RV-10
> Electrical/avionics
> Portland, OR
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404667#404667
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Safety Wire for Plane-Power Alternator Installation |
I suspect, in my experiment, I'll get a "backup alternator" light illumination
on my panel. I'll then fly on or land...and adjust the belt tension when back
on the ground. I'll then recall this thread, enjoy a good chuckle... and press
on. :)
Or... I'll re-safety it now prior to first flight. Haha.
flying-nut(at)cfl.rr.com wrote:
> There's no doubt that shorter is better. The longer the span the
> 'potential' for loosening becomes greater.
> So, ask yourself what the consequences of that (those) particular
> fasteners loosening a little.
> This could be an 'experiment' so get back to us ......
> IMHO, of course.
> Linn
>
> On 7/14/2013 11:46 AM, dhmoose wrote:
>
> >
> >
> > I re-read AC43.13 and didn't find any mention of a limit to the length of
safety wire that can be used. I simply brought the wire from bolt to bolt in a
typical arrangement and the span looks to be about 3". Is this a problem? Seems
ok to me.
> >
> > --------
> > David Halmos
> > RV-10
> > Electrical/avionics
> > Portland, OR
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404667#404667
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=404671#404671
Message 5
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| Subject: | Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover |
All,
Last winter I installed a plate in the lower cowl that covers most of the
nose gear leg slot going forward from the gear leg (I left enough gap to
allow for the gear leg to flex). I found that it did reduce some cowl drag,
but at the expense of engine cooling on hard climb outs. As today was
standard east coast hot and humid, I took the plate out. With the plate out
I noted a 10 to 15 degree cooler peak CHT on a hard climb to 8500'. I also
again noted a knot or two off my typical cruise setting.
So - winter the plate is in, summer the plate is out.
Carl
RV-10 (115 hrs)
RV-8A (sold last month)
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover |
Interesting,
I have heard another builder report cooler climbs doing this too. I
have a plate and now I=99ll have to test this on my 10.
Thanks for the report.
From: Carl Froehlich
Sent: Sunday, July 14, 2013 1:22 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover
All,
Last winter I installed a plate in the lower cowl that covers most of
the nose gear leg slot going forward from the gear leg (I left enough
gap to allow for the gear leg to flex). I found that it did reduce some
cowl drag, but at the expense of engine cooling on hard climb outs. As
today was standard east coast hot and humid, I took the plate out. With
the plate out I noted a 10 to 15 degree cooler peak CHT on a hard climb
to 8500'. I also again noted a knot or two off my typical cruise
setting.
So - winter the plate is in, summer the plate is out.
Carl
RV-10 (115 hrs)
RV-8A (sold last month)
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Nose gear slot - to cover or not cover |
Great feedback! I just pulled my plate for cooling troubleshooting.
Wondered if it mattered. Now I know
Thx
On Jul 14, 2013, at 12:22 PM, "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net> w
rote:
> All,
>
> Last winter I installed a plate in the lower cowl that covers most of the n
ose gear leg slot going forward from the gear leg (I left enough gap to allo
w for the gear leg to flex). I found that it did reduce some cowl drag, but
at the expense of engine cooling on hard climb outs. As today was standard
east coast hot and humid, I took the plate out. With the plate out I noted
a 10 to 15 degree cooler peak CHT on a hard climb to 8500'. I also again n
oted a knot or two off my typical cruise setting.
>
> So - winter the plate is in, summer the plate is out.
>
> Carl
> RV-10 (115 hrs)
> RV-8A (sold last month)
>
>
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