Today's Message Index:
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1. 02:16 AM - Re: Re: K&n filter (Patrick Thyssen)
2. 03:13 AM - Re: Re: K&n filter (Tim Olson)
3. 04:12 AM - Re: IO-540-C4B5 Cylinders (Jesse Saint)
4. 06:14 PM - Re: C/S-13 SPINNER FOR SALE (mds4878)
Message 1
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Cleaned them just the way k&n says to. I have two of the cleaning /oil kits. Mine
did not look all deformed but shrunk. My buddy here, his shrank more bottom
then top by 1/2 inch. I fly off paved runway. Only thing we could come up with
is, if you flooded the engine for starting it may not like 100ll
Patrick Thyssen
570hr
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:36 PM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> wrote:
>
> Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after
only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice any
deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique
environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage?
>
> --------
> See you OSH '13
> Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
>
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> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116
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Message 2
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Same here. Same thing happened, and I did clean the K&N way with the
K&N kit. I can't say I never flooded the engine, but my guess is
that this is going to be a pretty common problem for people. I'd
put filter keepers on the inside of the filter to prevent it from
pulling in, but then those keepers could end up lodged in the engine
if they snapped off, so I don't think that's really the way to go.
I also don't know if there is a shrinkage limit....like if you let
it shrink and then reposition it in the FAB, maybe you'd eventually
reach a point where it would remain that size and you could use
it indefinitely? Or if you could get a larger one and pre-shrink
it somehow?
Anyway, unless something big happens I don't see it as a major
issue, but it is something you should pay attention to at
annual time.
Tim
On 8/7/2013 4:15 AM, Patrick Thyssen wrote:
>
> Cleaned them just the way k&n says to. I have two of the cleaning /oil kits.
Mine did not look all deformed but shrunk. My buddy here, his shrank more bottom
then top by 1/2 inch. I fly off paved runway. Only thing we could come up with
is, if you flooded the engine for starting it may not like 100ll
> Patrick Thyssen
> 570hr
>
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:36 PM, "AirMike" <Mikeabel@Pacbell.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after
only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice
any deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique
environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage?
>>
>> --------
>> See you OSH '13
>> Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
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Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: IO-540-C4B5 Cylinders |
I agree with Kelly. You can talk to 10 engine shops and get 10 different opinions.
They all seem to have 1 type they won't touch for whatever reason. I personally
like the steel barrel ECI Titans. If you plan to fly at least biweekly,
then you should be fine with steel barrels. Otherwise, the cerminils are a good
way to go. If you're doing it yourself, then the ECI's are nice because they
come assembled and ready to pop in. Also, don't forget the accessories needed,
like silicone valve cover gaskets, possibly new rocker arm bushings, possibly
new piston pins. ECI's include new shroud tube gaskets but may not include shroud
tube clips and lock washers. You may also need new shroud tubes themselves
if you have an old engine.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
On Aug 6, 2013, at 10:57 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> The choice has as much to do with where you live/base aircraft as
> anything else. If you are in a corrosion prone area, like coastal,
> near water, etc. then ECI Cerminil treated cylinders, either new or
> overhauled will give better service than new Lycoming, which are
> nitride treated. Nitride cylinders wear very well, but are very
> corrosion prone. If you are in dry climate you might prefer Lycoming
> cylinders. New or overhauled will depend on your budget. You can save
> about 200-300 per cyl with overhauled.
>
>
> On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 7:30 PM, mds4878 <mike.nova1973@gmail.com> wrote:
>>
>> I'm getting ready to rebuild my engine.
>> What cylinders would you use and why?
>>
>> --------
>> RV-10 #40447
>> Fuselage almost done.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406112#406112
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: C/S-13 SPINNER FOR SALE |
Make offer I might say yes if it's not to low.
--------
RV-10 #40447
Fuselage almost done.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406206#406206
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