---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Wed 08/07/13: 4 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 02:16 AM - Re: Re: K&n filter (Patrick Thyssen) 2. 03:13 AM - Re: Re: K&n filter (Tim Olson) 3. 04:12 AM - Re: IO-540-C4B5 Cylinders (Jesse Saint) 4. 06:14 PM - Re: C/S-13 SPINNER FOR SALE (mds4878) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 02:16:17 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: K&n filter From: Patrick Thyssen Cleaned them just the way k&n says to. I have two of the cleaning /oil kits. Mine did not look all deformed but shrunk. My buddy here, his shrank more bottom then top by 1/2 inch. I fly off paved runway. Only thing we could come up with is, if you flooded the engine for starting it may not like 100ll Patrick Thyssen 570hr Sent from my iPad On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:36 PM, "AirMike" wrote: > > Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice any deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage? > > -------- > See you OSH '13 > Q/B - flying 3 yrs. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 03:13:40 AM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: K&n filter Same here. Same thing happened, and I did clean the K&N way with the K&N kit. I can't say I never flooded the engine, but my guess is that this is going to be a pretty common problem for people. I'd put filter keepers on the inside of the filter to prevent it from pulling in, but then those keepers could end up lodged in the engine if they snapped off, so I don't think that's really the way to go. I also don't know if there is a shrinkage limit....like if you let it shrink and then reposition it in the FAB, maybe you'd eventually reach a point where it would remain that size and you could use it indefinitely? Or if you could get a larger one and pre-shrink it somehow? Anyway, unless something big happens I don't see it as a major issue, but it is something you should pay attention to at annual time. Tim On 8/7/2013 4:15 AM, Patrick Thyssen wrote: > > Cleaned them just the way k&n says to. I have two of the cleaning /oil kits. Mine did not look all deformed but shrunk. My buddy here, his shrank more bottom then top by 1/2 inch. I fly off paved runway. Only thing we could come up with is, if you flooded the engine for starting it may not like 100ll > Patrick Thyssen > 570hr > > > Sent from my iPad > > On Aug 6, 2013, at 11:36 PM, "AirMike" wrote: > >> >> Just back from OSH, I had my filter out to clean yesterday. Pretty dirty after only 50 hours since my last cleaning, but after 200 hrs., I did not notice any deformation. Do you follow K&N's cleaning instructions, or are there any unique environmental factors which contribute to the shrinkage? >> >> -------- >> See you OSH '13 >> Q/B - flying 3 yrs. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406116#406116 >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 04:12:12 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: IO-540-C4B5 Cylinders From: Jesse Saint I agree with Kelly. You can talk to 10 engine shops and get 10 different opinions. They all seem to have 1 type they won't touch for whatever reason. I personally like the steel barrel ECI Titans. If you plan to fly at least biweekly, then you should be fine with steel barrels. Otherwise, the cerminils are a good way to go. If you're doing it yourself, then the ECI's are nice because they come assembled and ready to pop in. Also, don't forget the accessories needed, like silicone valve cover gaskets, possibly new rocker arm bushings, possibly new piston pins. ECI's include new shroud tube gaskets but may not include shroud tube clips and lock washers. You may also need new shroud tubes themselves if you have an old engine. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone On Aug 6, 2013, at 10:57 PM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > The choice has as much to do with where you live/base aircraft as > anything else. If you are in a corrosion prone area, like coastal, > near water, etc. then ECI Cerminil treated cylinders, either new or > overhauled will give better service than new Lycoming, which are > nitride treated. Nitride cylinders wear very well, but are very > corrosion prone. If you are in dry climate you might prefer Lycoming > cylinders. New or overhauled will depend on your budget. You can save > about 200-300 per cyl with overhauled. > > > On Tue, Aug 6, 2013 at 7:30 PM, mds4878 wrote: >> >> I'm getting ready to rebuild my engine. >> What cylinders would you use and why? >> >> -------- >> RV-10 #40447 >> Fuselage almost done. >> >> >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=406112#406112 > > > > -- > > - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:14:40 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: C/S-13 SPINNER FOR SALE From: "mds4878" Make offer I might say yes if it's not to low. -------- RV-10 #40447 Fuselage almost done. 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