RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 09/04/13


Total Messages Posted: 6



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:53 AM - Re: Nose gear leg fairing (jkreidler)
     2. 04:55 AM - Re: Nose gear leg fairing (rv10flyer)
     3. 09:12 AM - Nose Cowling Heat Shields (Carroll L. Verhage)
     4. 10:58 AM - Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields (Jim Berry)
     5. 02:04 PM - Re: Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields (JimVillani)
     6. 05:46 PM - Re: Re: Nose gear leg fairing (Chris)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:53:00 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
    From: "jkreidler" <jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com>
    I have a question about the louvers you are using, are those stock? It seems like they are cut in the cowl more forward than most. Could it be that your installation has more hot air being pulled out the forward portion of the cowl rather than the aft opening? If that is the case then your fairing would see more heat than others. Just a thought - Jason -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408001#408001


    Message 2


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    Time: 04:55:15 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
    From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>
    They appear stock and in stock location to me. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408002#408002


    Message 3


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    Time: 09:12:15 AM PST US
    From: "Carroll L. Verhage" <cv93436@windstream.net>
    Subject: Nose Cowling Heat Shields
    RV-10 Builders: If you do not shield the lower engine cowling, it will warp and turn brown from the heat produced by the exhaust system. A permanent fix is to mount a sheet of .025 or .032 aluminum with the same contour of the cowling over the area of the cowling where it gets hot from the exhaust (about 6 in. forward of the exhaust pipes up front and back to where the mufflers end). Place 3 or 4 #6 thick washers between the heat shield and the Lexan at the top edge of the aluminum and rivet it to the Lexan with countersunk rivents on the outside. It will take 3 or 4 rivets on each side of the cowling. Shape the aluminum sheet so it is parallel to the Lexan leaving a 1/4" space between the Lexan and aluminum sheet (an air space). Rivet the lower edge of the aluminum sheet to the bottom edge of the Lexan with counter sunk rivets. You will not need spacer washers on the bottom edge. This is as light in weight as the adhesive aluminum reflector and will last forever with better heat protection. Carroll RV-10 41087 N123CV


    Message 4


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    Time: 10:58:54 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields
    From: "Jim Berry" <jimberry@qwest.net>
    This makes no sense to me. My -10 has no Lexan in the cowl or elsewhere. Also can't imagine a Lexan and alum. sandwich being lighter than the adhesive alum. foil. What am I missing? Jim Berry RV-10 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408016#408016


    Message 5


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    Time: 02:04:50 PM PST US
    From: "JimVillani" <Jim@JimVillani.com>
    Subject: Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields
    The aluminum tape we use for exhaust vents on stoves works GREAT. Its meant for High Heat Ventilation systems I have used it on my 10 for 143 hours no problem. The interior was "Browning" before I applied the tape. No problems since. I think the tape number is "704"... If my aging memory serves me correctly... Jim Villani Kit# 41084 Jim@JimVillani.com -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jim Berry Sent: Wednesday, September 04, 2013 10:58 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose Cowling Heat Shields This makes no sense to me. My -10 has no Lexan in the cowl or elsewhere. Also can't imagine a Lexan and alum. sandwich being lighter than the adhesive alum. foil. What am I missing? Jim Berry RV-10 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408016#408016


    Message 6


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    Time: 05:46:46 PM PST US
    From: Chris <toaster73@embarqmail.com>
    Subject: Re: Nose gear leg fairing
    My FWF is all stock unless I made a plans mistake. -Chris ----- Original Message ----- From: jkreidler <jason.kreidler@regalbeloit.com> Sent: Wed, 04 Sep 2013 07:52:24 -0400 (EDT) Subject: RV10-List: Re: Nose gear leg fairing I have a question about the louvers you are using, are those stock? It seems like they are cut in the cowl more forward than most. Could it be that your installation has more hot air being pulled out the forward portion of the cowl rather than the aft opening? If that is the case then your fairing would see more heat than others. Just a thought - Jason -------- Jason Kreidler 4 Partner Build - Sheboygan Falls, WI Tony Kolar, Kyle Hokel, Wayne Elser, Jason Kreidler N44YH - Flying - #40617 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408001#408001




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