Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 02:47 AM - Re: Cabin Cover Headliner (Bob Leffler)
2. 06:07 AM - Re: Cabin Cover Headliner (johngoodman)
3. 06:17 AM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (johngoodman)
4. 07:07 AM - Re: prop govenor (Jesse Saint)
5. 07:08 AM - Re: Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Kelly McMullen)
6. 07:15 AM - Re: prop governor (Carl Froehlich)
7. 08:17 AM - Re: Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (John Cox)
8. 08:23 AM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Michael Sausen)
9. 08:41 AM - Re: Has this ever been done... (rv10flyer)
10. 08:50 AM - Re: Re: Has this ever been done... (Danny Riggs)
11. 09:02 AM - Re: Re: Has this ever been done... (Pascal)
12. 09:21 AM - Re: Re: Has this ever been done... (Danny Riggs)
13. 09:35 AM - Re: Re: Has this ever been done... (Pascal)
14. 09:42 AM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Geoff Combs)
15. 09:53 AM - Re: Re: Has this ever been done... (Rene Felker)
16. 09:59 AM - Launching online classifieds for homebuilders: SkySwapper.com (Ed Kranz)
17. 10:00 AM - Re: Has this ever been done... (Mike Whisky)
18. 10:27 AM - Re: Launching online classifieds for homebuilders: SkySwapper.com (Seano)
19. 11:50 AM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Michael Sausen)
20. 12:01 PM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Tim Olson)
21. 12:03 PM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Michael Sausen)
22. 12:20 PM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Bob Turner)
23. 12:53 PM - Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Geoff Combs)
24. 12:57 PM - Re: Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING (Linn Walters)
25. 02:17 PM - Re: prop govenor (Bill Watson)
26. 07:07 PM - life of the Odyssey (DLM)
27. 08:05 PM - Re: life of the Odyssey (Pascal)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Headliner |
I can't speak specifically to the flightline headliner, since I have an Aerosport
Products headliner. But I'm sure the issues are similar.
You want to prep as much as you can with the cabin cover off the aircraft. It's
a hundred times easier.
Most folks prefer to sand smooth and fill any voids, depressions, and pin holes.
This is clearly easier with the cover upside down on the bench. The door
frame may need additional work depending on what type of doors seals you choose
to use.
There are at least three variations of cabin covers. One green and two pink.
The two pink ones have slightly different dimensions from the the step down that
separates the front and back. This may cause some additional tweaking of
the headliner depending on which cover you received.
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 9, 2013, at 12:18 AM, "bob88" <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> Is there a significant advantage to installing the Flightline headliner before
doing the final install on the cabin cover? How much inside prep is needed and
how about prep of the parts that remain exposed like the door frame, etc.?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408255#408255
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin Cover Headliner |
bob88 wrote:
> Is there a significant advantage to installing the Flightline headliner before
doing the final install on the cabin cover? How much inside prep is needed and
how about prep of the parts that remain exposed like the door frame, etc.?
I used the full Flightline headliner - no overhead console. I glued it in while
it was upside down on my work table. I think it was much easier that way. I left
extra fabric at the windows, ends, etc., so I could trim it later. When you
work on the trim later, you will be glad you didn't have to do it "Michelangelo
style".
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408261#408261
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| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Make it easy to get to, behind the baggage bulkhead. Put the antenna on the top
- nobody notices antennas anyway. Keep in mind that it uses an "almost" ordinary
telephone cord between it and your panel. You need that cord in place when
pulling wires.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
The only ones I see go over the cylinders is when there is an air
conditioner installed. I don't know if this causes any problems with
heat or not, but it can and has been done. Might try someone who has air
conditioning, especially with the Airflow Systems unit, to see how
theirs hold up.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
jesse@saintaviation.com
C: 352-427-0285
F: 815-377-3694
On Sep 8, 2013, at 11:49 PM, Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com> wrote:
> You would also have a greater need to have a cable with good
temperature resistance as a cable on the top would be subjected to
significant temperatures in after flight heat soak, more so than under
the engine. I'm not sure I see any real advantage to going over the top.
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Dave Saylor
<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
> All the 10s I've seen have it come up from the bottom, but there's no
physical reason it couldn't route over the cylinders. Lots of other
planes do that. You'd probably need a custom cable, though.
>
> Dave Saylor
> 831-750-0284 CL
>
>
> On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Chris Hukill <cjhukill@cox.net> wrote:
> Although I don=92t have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop
governor cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the
bracket that bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above
the engine, which would be a preferred route. I can find no
documentation on this routing in the plans or the instruction page that
came with the bracket. Nor can I find anything in the forum searches.
Does anyone have any info on this subject (links to your website, cable
length, etc.)
> Chris Hukill
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
> tp://forums.matronics.com
> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>
>
>
>
> --
>
> - sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
While I agree with mounting the ELT in the area behind the baggage
compartment, I don't agree with mounting the antenna just anywhere on top.
Antennas and spacing do matter. You need at least 2 ft from any com or
GPS antenna, and 3 ft is better. The closer the ELT antenna is to the
vertical stabilizer the better it will be protected from crash damage.
The neat, out of sight mounting between the vert and horiz stabilizers
under the fiberglass fairing is probably the best crash protected
location. While the manufacturer's instructions call for mounting
within 20 or 30 degrees of vertical, it is somewhat difficult to define
where vertical will be post-crash. I mounted mine on the rear most
bulkhead before the vertical stab, and will use a nylon wire clamp to
keep the other end of the antenna clear of any metal.
There is one other issue with ELT antennas that is rarely discussed. The
121.5 transmitters are easily excited by TV and FM signals which are
close in frequency, and they re-radiate that energy. If there is a com
antenna anywhere near the ELT antenna it can cause a nasty squelch break
that interferes. I had this problem with my Mooney when all the com
antennas were on top of fuselage. I was able to greatly reduce it by
moving one com antenna to the belly. Yes, newer ELTs are supposed to
have better suppression of this "feature" but I doubt they have
eliminated it. Likewise any VHF transmission anywhere near your GPS
antenna creates potential for interference with GPS. So mounting your
ELT as far away from other antennas as possible is beneficial.
On 9/9/2013 6:17 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> Make it easy to get to, behind the baggage bulkhead. Put the antenna on the top
- nobody notices antennas anyway. Keep in mind that it uses an "almost" ordinary
telephone cord between it and your panel. You need that cord in place when
pulling wires.
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262
>
>
Message 6
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The only install I've seen with the prop gov cable on top was an RV-10 with
an AC compressor on the engine (the compressor blocked the normal cable
path).
The Van's prop gov cable bracket did not work on my plane. I made a cable
bracket that is part of the left baffles (I did not use the Van's baffle
kit). Photo attached. Please look past the temporary hardware and screws
not yet having safety wire.
I used the cable Van's sells.
Carl
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:50 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: prop govenor
You would also have a greater need to have a cable with good temperature
resistance as a cable on the top would be subjected to significant
temperatures in after flight heat soak, more so than under the engine. I'm
not sure I see any real advantage to going over the top.
On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 7:35 PM, Dave Saylor
<dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.com> wrote:
All the 10s I've seen have it come up from the bottom, but there's no
physical reason it couldn't route over the cylinders. Lots of other planes
do that. You'd probably need a custom cable, though.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
On Sun, Sep 8, 2013 at 6:14 PM, Chris Hukill <cjhukill@cox.net> wrote:
Although I don't have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop governor
cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the bracket that
bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable above the engine,
which would be a preferred route. I can find no documentation on this
routing in the plans or the instruction page that came with the bracket. Nor
can I find anything in the forum searches. Does anyone have any info on this
subject (links to your website, cable length, etc.)
Chris Hukill
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
tp://forums.matronics.com
_blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
As a guy who tests ELTs and gets paid to do it, Kelly's advise is
invaluable. Cosmetically hiding ELT antenna produced too many units which
won't propagate an adequate signal. It looks like you have a unit but the
signal strength is inadequate.
John
On Sep 9, 2013 7:17 AM, "Kelly McMullen" <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
>
> While I agree with mounting the ELT in the area behind the baggage
> compartment, I don't agree with mounting the antenna just anywhere on top.
> Antennas and spacing do matter. You need at least 2 ft from any com or GPS
> antenna, and 3 ft is better. The closer the ELT antenna is to the vertical
> stabilizer the better it will be protected from crash damage. The neat,
> out of sight mounting between the vert and horiz stabilizers under the
> fiberglass fairing is probably the best crash protected location. While
> the manufacturer's instructions call for mounting within 20 or 30 degrees
> of vertical, it is somewhat difficult to define where vertical will be
> post-crash. I mounted mine on the rear most bulkhead before the vertical
> stab, and will use a nylon wire clamp to keep the other end of the antenna
> clear of any metal.
> There is one other issue with ELT antennas that is rarely discussed. The
> 121.5 transmitters are easily excited by TV and FM signals which are close
> in frequency, and they re-radiate that energy. If there is a com antenna
> anywhere near the ELT antenna it can cause a nasty squelch break that
> interferes. I had this problem with my Mooney when all the com antennas
> were on top of fuselage. I was able to greatly reduce it by moving one com
> antenna to the belly. Yes, newer ELTs are supposed to have better
> suppression of this "feature" but I doubt they have eliminated it. Likewise
> any VHF transmission anywhere near your GPS antenna creates potential for
> interference with GPS. So mounting your ELT as far away from other antennas
> as possible is beneficial.
>
> On 9/9/2013 6:17 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>> >
>>
>> Make it easy to get to, behind the baggage bulkhead. Put the antenna on
>> the top - nobody notices antennas anyway. Keep in mind that it uses an
>> "almost" ordinary telephone cord between it and your panel. You need that
>> cord in place when pulling wires.
>> John
>>
>> --------
>> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/**viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262<http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408262#408262>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems that
it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB then pressurize
tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
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Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
I used less than 1 quart, more like 3/4 used. Thus far the tanks have been
solid and there have been no leaks from the build. The idea was to get the
seal in enough that it "just" bulges out, than with a qtip I smoothed it all
out. Every rivet was prosealed, than another quick dab around every rivet. I
feared that I wasn't using enough but in the end, one just needs enough to
seal everything without too much in between the pieces, too much and it is
harder to rivet, unless a larger rivet is used, and proseal oozes out
everywhere.
It is a time consuming process and if anything requires a detailed
attention, it's the tanks. I went through numerous syringes but that was the
best method to get the width and application on smoothly.
Pascal
-----Original Message-----
From: rv10flyer
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:41 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB then
pressurize tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
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IA0KPiANCiAJCSAJICAgCQkgIA=
Message 13
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|
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
There really is no excuse for not testing a tank and correcting it
before it ever left the shop. Its more work to fix the tank from the
outside than doing it right from the inside.
From: Danny Riggs
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
What's a pain is when you pay good money for a QB and the tanks still
leak.
> From: rv10flyer@live.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
> Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 09:02:15 -0700
>
>
> I used less than 1 quart, more like 3/4 used. Thus far the tanks have
been
> solid and there have been no leaks from the build. The idea was to get
the
> seal in enough that it "just" bulges out, than with a qtip I smoothed
it all
> out. Every rivet was prosealed, than another quick dab around every
rivet. I
> feared that I wasn't using enough but in the end, one just needs
enough to
> seal everything without too much in between the pieces, too much and
it is
> harder to rivet, unless a larger rivet is used, and proseal oozes out
> everywhere.
> It is a time consuming process and if anything requires a detailed
> attention, it's the tanks. I went through numerous syringes but that
was the
> best method to get the width and application on smoothly.
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rv10flyer
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
>
<wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>
>
> For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB
then
> pressurize tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD=03g(=EF=BD=EF
=BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD
Message 14
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| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a
spot for it next to the batteries like others.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical
stabilizer and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit,
it seems that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how
does the antenna live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
I tested mine and they were both good. After about a year and a half
the passenger tank started leaking, one rivet in the walk area. And,
after 5 years, I now have a seep out of the pilot take walk area. Would
not call it a leak yet, but it will need some
attention.
I thought I did a good job on the walk area.but maybe not. L
Rene' Felker
N423CF
801-721-6080
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Pascal
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 10:36 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
There really is no excuse for not testing a tank and correcting it
before it ever left the shop. Its more work to fix the tank from the
outside than doing it right from the inside.
From: Danny Riggs <mailto:jdriggs49@msn.com>
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 9:20 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
What's a pain is when you pay good money for a QB and the tanks still
leak. Emoji <https://a.gfx.ms/Emoji_1F620.png>
> From: rv10flyer@live.com
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
> Date: Mon, 9 Sep 2013 09:02:15 -0700
>
>
> I used less than 1 quart, more like 3/4 used. Thus far the tanks have
been
> solid and there have been no leaks from the build. The idea was to get
the
> seal in enough that it "just" bulges out, than with a qtip I smoothed
it all
> out. Every rivet was prosealed, than another quick dab around every
rivet. I
> feared that I wasn't using enough but in the end, one just needs
enough to
> seal everything without too much in between the pieces, too much and
it is
> harder to rivet, unless a larger rivet is used, and proseal oozes out
> everywhere.
> It is a time consuming process and if anything requires a detailed
> attention, it's the tanks. I went through numerous syringes but that
was the
> best method to get the width and application on smoothly.
> Pascal
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: rv10flyer
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 8:41 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Has this ever been done...
>
<wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>
>
> For future builders...buy slow build and two quarts of proseal. If QB
then
> pressurize tanks to 1 psi upon receipt. Paint after test flying.
>
> --------
> Wayne G.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408277#408277
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ==========
> Features Browse, Chat, via the Web http://forums.matronics.com
> http://www.matronics.com/contribution
> ==========
>
>
>
=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BD~=EF=BD=EF=BD,=EF=BD
_____
g(=EF=BD=EF=BD=EF=BDM=EF=BDGq=EF=BDz=EF=BD=EF=BD
Message 16
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| Subject: | Launching online classifieds for homebuilders: SkySwapper.com |
Hey everyone.
Over the past few years I've noticed that many homebuilders tend to stick
to their own online groups. Also, when people are looking to buy or sell
parts (or planes), that experience is also quite fragmented. There will be
different postings on email lists, VAF, and all the other dedicated builder
sites... but often these listings would be of interest to everyone
regardless of which type of plane they are building or flying.
To try to help people reach across those divisions, I am launching a new
website:
SkySwapper.com <http://skyswapper.com/>
<http://skyswapper.com/>
It's an online classifieds site purely dedicated to the experimental
aviation community.
Of course, since it's brand new, it's pretty empty... but I'm hoping you
all can help me with that. Posting ads with one photo will always be free,
but sign up using the promo code: 10builders
and you'll get the ability to post ads with 4 up to pictures for free as
thanks for being one of the early adopters.
(Or simply register with this link:)
www.skyswapper.com/register.php?registration_code=10builders
Since I'm a -10 builder, I decided that this is the group that I'd launch
with first. The site is still in a beta release, so comments, suggestions,
and complaints are all very important to me.
Thanks for your time and happy building and flying!
Ed Kranz
RV10 (working on cabin top)
SkySwapper.com <http://www.skyswapper.com>
Message 17
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|
| Subject: | Re: Has this ever been done... |
Thanks to AZcloudflyer his tool and method worked the vent line doesn't leak anymore.
Just for information this leak can not be detected with vans proposed method
o leak testing because the leak is in the vent line inside the tank. You
have to plug the vent line with your finger near the fuel cap opening and apply
pleasure on the vent line fitting. Now HB-YNN is filled up and after 1h of
flight it seams to still to be tight.
Cheers
Michael
--------
RV-10 builder (final system testing)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408288#408288
Message 18
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|
| Subject: | Re: Launching online classifieds for homebuilders: SkySwapper.com |
Looks good Ed!
I just registered and will be looking for stuff around the shop to sell.
Good Luck!
From: Ed Kranz
Sent: Monday, September 9, 2013 10:58 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Launching online classifieds for homebuilders:
SkySwapper.com
Hey everyone.
Over the past few years I've noticed that many homebuilders tend to
stick to their own online groups. Also, when people are looking to buy
or sell parts (or planes), that experience is also quite fragmented.
There will be different postings on email lists, VAF, and all the other
dedicated builder sites... but often these listings would be of interest
to everyone regardless of which type of plane they are building or
flying.
To try to help people reach across those divisions, I am launching a new
website:
SkySwapper.com
It's an online classifieds site purely dedicated to the experimental
aviation community.
Of course, since it's brand new, it's pretty empty... but I'm hoping you
all can help me with that. Posting ads with one photo will always be
free, but sign up using the promo code: 10builders
and you'll get the ability to post ads with 4 up to pictures for free as
thanks for being one of the early adopters.
(Or simply register with this link:)
www.skyswapper.com/register.php?registration_code=10builders
Since I'm a -10 builder, I decided that this is the group that I'd
launch with first. The site is still in a beta release, so comments,
suggestions, and complaints are all very important to me.
Thanks for your time and happy building and flying!
Ed Kranz
RV10 (working on cabin top)
SkySwapper.com
Message 19
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|
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Geoff,
That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems that
it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
Message 20
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Not true.... I added legs to my bracket on the new E-04 and that makes
it fit fine. I think that's what Geoff was referring to also.
The old one was shaped differently. The new one I needed to raise
up a little, and then it fit fine.
Here's my write-up from 2011 when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110506/index.html
Tim
On 9/9/2013 1:50 PM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Geoff,
>
> That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
> I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems
that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
>
>
Message 21
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|
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Interesting, just noticed the one in Geoff's picture is the old one.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 2:01 PM
Cc: Michael Sausen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Not true.... I added legs to my bracket on the new E-04 and that makes it fit
fine. I think that's what Geoff was referring to also.
The old one was shaped differently. The new one I needed to raise up a little,
and then it fit fine.
Here's my write-up from 2011 when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110506/index.html
Tim
On 9/9/2013 1:50 PM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Geoff,
>
> That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
> I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Sausen
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a spot
for it next to the batteries like others.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical stabilizer
and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit, it seems
that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how does the antenna
live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
>
>
Message 22
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|
| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Guys,
This confusion has happened before.
Model E-04 is made by ACK technologies.
Unfortunately Ameri-King (shown in the photo) uses "AK-xxx" for their model numbers
and is often confused with ACK.
Bob
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408296#408296
Message 23
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|
| Subject: | ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
That is correct. These pictures were over 4 yrs ago. Below is the new 406
Ameriking that is a drop in
Replacement Pretty much. See Pictures
Geoff
Geoff Combs
Aerosport Modeling and Design
8090 howe industrial pkwy
canal winchester, ohio 43110
614.834.5227p
614.834.5230f
www.aerosportmodeling.com
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael Sausen
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 3:03 PM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Interesting, just noticed the one in Geoff's picture is the old one.
Michael
-----Original Message-----
From: Tim Olson [mailto:Tim@MyRV10.com]
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 2:01 PM
Cc: Michael Sausen
Subject: Re: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
Not true.... I added legs to my bracket on the new E-04 and that makes it
fit fine. I think that's what Geoff was referring to also.
The old one was shaped differently. The new one I needed to raise up a
little, and then it fit fine.
Here's my write-up from 2011 when I did it.
http://www.myrv10.com/N104CD/upgrades/20110506/index.html
Tim
On 9/9/2013 1:50 PM, Michael Sausen wrote:
>
> Geoff,
>
> That's the old 121.5. The new 406 E-04 is much longer and won't fit.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Geoff Combs
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:42 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
> I built little aluminum standoffs and works great
>
>
> Geoff Combs
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Michael
> Sausen
> Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 11:23 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> Couldn't get mine to fit there anymore when I switched, ended up making a
spot for it next to the batteries like others.
>
> Michael
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
> Sent: Sunday, September 08, 2013 11:15 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING
>
>
> I noted that Tim Olson has mounted the ELT basically under the vertical
stabilizer and between the elevator trim control cables. For the ACK unit,
it seems that it will be a very tight fit. Anyone done it? Photo? Also, how
does the antenna live under the fairing with the 20 degree angle?
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408254#408254
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: ACK E04 ELT MOUNTING |
Not an ACK but here's my ELT mounting solution ......
It's an ACR/Artex ME406, but you can make the 'shelf' to fit just about
anything. That's 3/4" alum channel with a piece of scrap alum riveted
between and mounts the ELT. Those holes allow screw to go into
nutplates to hold everything down.
I was waiting to talk to folks in a booth at Airventure last year and
was standing next to the Artex booth. Filled out the entry for the ELT
giveaway while I waited. Won the raffle! I hope to never use it
though! ;-)
Linn
On 9/9/2013 3:20 PM, Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Guys,
>
> This confusion has happened before.
> Model E-04 is made by ACK technologies.
> Unfortunately Ameri-King (shown in the photo) uses "AK-xxx" for their model numbers
and is often confused with ACK.
>
> Bob
>
> --------
> Bob Turner
> RV-10 QB
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=408296#408296
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: prop govenor |
I'm actually in process of reinstalling the prop controller cable as a
replacement for the original Vans cable in my flying '10 because it
needed to be longer. I'd go with the low route unless you have some
other consideration.
The Vans bracket and under the engine routing looks good as long as a
slightly longer cable (1" longer) is used. I'll have this completed
this evening or tomorrow.
The too short cables situation is pretty well documented on this forum.
Looks to me that Vans sized them for routing with the original heat
shroud design. Add an inch too them and the Vetterman exhaust permits
easy, no interference routing.
I ordered replacement Cablecraft cables from California Push-Pull per
Dave Saylors recommendation. They were custom fabbed the same day and
shipped immediately - about $65/cable. Indistinquishable from Van's
cables except I got the high temp black covering. Recommend them highly.
Will post details and pics later.
Bill "cussing out Matco for lazy shipping practices" Watson
On 9/8/2013 9:14 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Although I dont have my engine yet, I am building baffles,etc. in
> preparation for it. The baffle plans show bracketry for the prop
> governor cable coming up from the bottom of the engine. I bought the
> bracket that bolts to the governor and presumably routes the cable
> above the engine, which would be a preferred route. I can find no
> documentation on this routing in the plans or the instruction page
> that came with the bracket. Nor can I find anything in the forum
> searches. Does anyone have any info on this subject (links to your
> website, cable length, etc.)
> Chris Hukill
> *
>
>
> *
>
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com <http://www.avg.com>
>
Message 26
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| Subject: | life of the Odyssey |
I have 2 680s running in parallel. they have started my 10 since 4/2008
(700+TT) and show no signs of failing to accept a charge or cranking the
engine. How long should these be expected to work? Will they fail in a way
that allows me to get back home to the hangar where I have two new 680s
waiting? I am off to the Reno Races soon.
N46007
Message 27
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| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
I was at Aircraft Spruce customer day last year and spoke with the head
engineer at Odyssey. He told me if I used the =9Ccorrect=9D
tricklecharger that the battery would last a good 10 years as a minimum.
From: DLM
Sent: Monday, September 09, 2013 7:06 PM
Subject: RV10-List: life of the Odyssey
I have 2 680s running in parallel. they have started my 10 since 4/2008
(700+TT) and show no signs of failing to accept a charge or cranking the
engine. How long should these be expected to work? Will they fail in a
way that allows me to get back home to the hangar where I have two new
680s waiting? I am off to the Reno Races soon.
N46007
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