Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 03:21 PM - Outboard Tension Rod (Jeff Carpenter)
2. 03:55 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Tim Olson)
3. 04:00 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Jesse Saint)
4. 04:02 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Marcus Cooper)
5. 04:11 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Patrick Pulis)
6. 04:23 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Linn Walters)
7. 04:23 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Tim Olson)
8. 04:39 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Kelly McMullen)
9. 04:47 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (Kelly McMullen)
10. 06:47 PM - Re: Outboard Tension Rod (pilotdds)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Outboard Tension Rod |
When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd
left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a
new tension rod to reduce the gap?
Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or
have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in
flight?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
Tim
On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to reduce
the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
There should be tension due to the nut being a lock but. It is possible that you
have cut e threads on the rod too small.
In a perfect world, you would want it tighter against the cylinders, but I doubt
you will see any measurable difference in cooling. I personally have started
using .041" safety wire with a sleeve over it, which has proven to work well.
I would make a mental note and see if that cylinder runs hot and then maybe make
a new rod. The nut tension would be much more important to me. You could score
the threads behind the nut to keep it from backing off, but make sure you
have good threads.
Do not archive
Sent from my iPad
On Sep 21, 2013, at 6:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com> wrote:
> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to reduce
the gap?
>
> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>
> Jeff Carpenter
> 40304
>
> <photo.jpeg>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Jeff,
I would recommend you do close the gap to make the most use of the cooling
fins on the cylinder. I struggled with the rods as well and on the right side
never could get a good fit and also not interfere with anything. In the end
I just used a long piece of safety wire and it has worked great for over 600 hours
and 7 years. Probably not so clean and I'm sure I just caused great disgust
in someone, but whatever method you choose the baffle should fit tight. I
vaguely remember the locknut not having as much tension as well, may just be
due to the small size of the rod but I can't be certain.
Looks like you are getting close, have fun.
Marcus
On Sep 21, 2013, at 6:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com> wrote:
When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp and
the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to reduce
the gap?
Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others found
this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
do not archive
<photo.jpeg>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Do you have photos on your website of this baffle securing modification please
Tim, as I'm up to this section.
Warm regards
Patrick Pulis
Adelaide, South Australia
On 22/09/2013, at 8:23, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>
> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
> Tim
>
> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you see
in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to
reduce the gap?
>>
>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on the
6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
I'm not there yet so take this with a grain of salt: (maybe not salt
.... bad for the heart) ;-)
Seeing the replies using safety wire ..... I'll use the supplied rod to
go horizontally on the lip with the safety wire looped over the rod. An
anti-chafe tube over the safety wire should clean things up a bit.
Thanks for triggering a few brain cells!
Linn
On 9/21/2013 6:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>
> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
> Tim
>
> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the
>> gap you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the
>> fwd left air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a
>> make a new tension rod to reduce the gap?
>>
>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock
>> nut on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to
>> me or have others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from
>> backing off in flight?
>>
>> Jeff Carpenter
>> 40304
>>
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
I don't, sorry. It was something I found on a quick oil change opening
and I didn't shoot pictures...just fixed it asap.
Tim
On 9/21/2013 6:11 PM, Patrick Pulis wrote:
>
> Do you have photos on your website of this baffle securing modification please
Tim, as I'm up to this section.
>
> Warm regards
>
> Patrick Pulis
> Adelaide, South Australia
>
> On 22/09/2013, at 8:23, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>>
>> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
>> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
>> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
>> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
>> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
>> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
>> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
>> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
>> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
>> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>>
>> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
>> Tim
>>
>> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you
see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air ramp
and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension rod to
reduce the gap?
>>>
>>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on
the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have others
found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
Y'all are doing it the hard way. I admit to making rods per plans, but will
replace any that don't fit right with 6X32 all thread rod available at your
favorite FAA/PMA dept of Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
The supplied rods are a real pain to run through a die to make the threads,
especially due to small size.
The all thread has it done for you and you just cut to length, where it
isn't critical because you can adjust nuts to fit.
You can then get 4 flat nuts for each rod, put one on each end inside the
baffle, install rod and put one on each outside, with washers as desired.
Then tighten the inner and outer nut against each other. I've done this and
seen it done on certified planes with good results. You can enhance by
placing sleeve of heat shrink over the rod to prevent any abrasion with
rocker drainback tubes, as well as bending for clearance. If it makes you
feel better you can use the self locking nuts on the outside. I do not like
those tiny self locking nuts.
Kelly
On Sat, Sep 21, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote:
>
> I'm not there yet so take this with a grain of salt: (maybe not salt
> .... bad for the heart) ;-)
> Seeing the replies using safety wire ..... I'll use the supplied rod to go
> horizontally on the lip with the safety wire looped over the rod. An
> anti-chafe tube over the safety wire should clean things up a bit. Thanks
> for triggering a few brain cells!
> Linn
>
>
> On 9/21/2013 6:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
>>
>> Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
>> the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
>> finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
>> metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
>> I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
>> has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
>> So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
>> into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
>> baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
>> is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
>>
>> Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
>> Tim
>>
>> On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
>>
>>> When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
>>> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left
>>> air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new
>>> tension rod to reduce the gap?
>>>
>>> Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
>>> on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have
>>> others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
>>>
>>> Jeff Carpenter
>>> 40304
>>>
>>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> No virus found in this message.
>> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>>
>>
>>
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
While your sleeve may protect the baffling, in general I would advise
against safety wire for this application, as I have seen it on many
aircraft and it eventually cuts right through the baffling, leaving a
broken hole.
Many production aircraft came with a pair of springs that hooked into the
hole in the baffle, with a washer underneath to protect the aluminum, and
then the other end of springs hooked together in middle, under center
cylinder(or between cylinders on 4 cyl engine). I haven't found anything
easier to install, nor more durable than the all thread rod.
On Sat, Sep 21, 2013 at 6:58 PM, Jesse Saint <jesse@saintaviation.com>wrote:
>
> There should be tension due to the nut being a lock but. It is possible
> that you have cut e threads on the rod too small.
>
> In a perfect world, you would want it tighter against the cylinders, but I
> doubt you will see any measurable difference in cooling. I personally have
> started using .041" safety wire with a sleeve over it, which has proven to
> work well. I would make a mental note and see if that cylinder runs hot and
> then maybe make a new rod. The nut tension would be much more important to
> me. You could score the threads behind the nut to keep it from backing off,
> but make sure you have good threads.
>
> Do not archive
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
> On Sep 21, 2013, at 6:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter <jeff@westcottpress.com>
> wrote:
>
> > When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap
> you see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left
> air ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new
> tension rod to reduce the gap?
> >
> > Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut
> on the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have
> others found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
> >
> > Jeff Carpenter
> > 40304
> >
> > <photo.jpeg>
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Outboard Tension Rod |
For whatever its worth on my kit the rod vans suppled was to small in diame
ter to achieve a true 6-32 .I wound up using all thread -The bends provid t
ension when the nuts are tightened.
-----Original Message-----
From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
Sent: Sat, Sep 21, 2013 4:40 pm
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Outboard Tension Rod
Y'all are doing it the hard way. I admit to making rods per plans, but will
replace any that don't fit right with 6X32 all thread rod available at you
r favorite FAA/PMA dept of Lowes, Home Depot, etc.
The supplied rods are a real pain to run through a die to make the threads,
especially due to small size.
The all thread has it done for you and you just cut to length, where it isn
't critical because you can adjust nuts to fit.
You can then get 4 flat nuts for each rod, put one on each end inside the b
affle, install rod and put one on each outside, with washers as desired. Th
en tighten the inner and outer nut against each other. I've done this and s
een it done on certified planes with good results. You can enhance by placi
ng sleeve of heat shrink over the rod to prevent any abrasion with rocker d
rainback tubes, as well as bending for clearance. If it makes you feel bett
er you can use the self locking nuts on the outside. I do not like those ti
ny self locking nuts.
Kelly
On Sat, Sep 21, 2013 at 7:22 PM, Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com> wrote
:
I'm not there yet so take this with a grain of salt: (maybe not salt ....
bad for the heart) ;-)
Seeing the replies using safety wire ..... I'll use the supplied rod to go
horizontally on the lip with the safety wire looped over the rod. An anti-
chafe tube over the safety wire should clean things up a bit. Thanks for t
riggering a few brain cells!
Linn
On 9/21/2013 6:53 PM, Tim Olson wrote:
Regarding the baffle rods, definitely do something else in addition to
the plans for them instead of just washers. It took 900+ hours, but
finally the stress was too great and the washer cracked through the
metal on those bent tabs of the baffle ramps. To fix the other one,
I got some 1/8" thick angle steel (remember one side of aluminum angle
has a rounded lip?), and cut it into 2 strips instead of being angle.
So I had 1/2" approx by 1.5 or 2" length. The rounded lip fit nicely
into the bend in that baffle, and I drilled a hole thru where the
baffle hole was. That way the entire piece of aluminum 1/8" backing
is pushing on that baffle ear, evening out the stress a bit.
Mine haven't backed off in flight, but they were snug.
Tim
On 9/21/2013 5:18 PM, Jeff Carpenter wrote:
When I make the outboard tension rods to the plan specs, I get the gap you
see in the attached picture between the curved portion of the fwd left air
ramp and the cooling fins. Is this correct, or should a make a new tension
rod to reduce the gap?
Also, I don't feel much resistance as I tighten the MS21042-06 lock nut on
the 6-32 threaded end of the tension rod. Is this peculiar to me or have ot
hers found this? Any suggestions to keep this from backing off in flight?
Jeff Carpenter
40304
-----
No virus found in this message.
Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
arget="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
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- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
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