Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 01:00 AM - Fairings-Etc Reply (bob@fairings-etc.com)
2. 09:58 AM - Prop spinner cutouts (Karol Hansen)
3. 01:22 PM - Bonaco Web Site (Dave Fritzsche (Building))
4. 02:17 PM - Re: Bonaco Web Site (Kelly McMullen)
5. 02:35 PM - Re: Bonaco Web Site (Bob Leffler)
6. 04:55 PM - Re: Fuel Pump Issue (Bob Leffler)
7. 07:28 PM - Re: Fuel Pump Issue (Kelly McMullen)
Message 1
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Subject: | Fairings-Etc Reply |
I will be unable to access my computer for a few days. My lady, Sonya, who does
all my computer things for me, will be gone for a few days starting on the 17th.
I will reply to your emails and orders starting on the 21th. If you need to
urgently speak with me directly before that date, please call me on my cell
phone: 623-203-09795.
Bob Snedaker
Fairings-Etc
Message 2
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Subject: | Prop spinner cutouts |
Chris,
Just to let you know the pressure on the blades can be overcome carefully, and
by hand, and not damaging the prop. If you place the prop assy with the studs
downward onto a soft surface like carpet, one person can apply a twisting motion
pressure on one blade and another person can apply the opposite twisting motion
on the other blade - again just using your clean hands. Give it constant
firm twisting pressure and you will feel and see the blades begin to turn as
they would in motion on the crank being affected by governor/oil pressure.
Now mind you no 5 year old will be able to do this, as it does take some firm
twisting, but you can do it! Once they start to twist keep the motion going until
they bottom out on the stops - you will feel that it has stopped. Now the
hard part! Hold the blades in this position and mark your reference points
on all your parts. If you relax your pressure, the blades will just return by
themselves to their initial position. If this happens, no worries, just do the
procedure again and know what to expect next time! I would recommend that
you perform this procedure as close to the center of the prop assy as possible
(not at the outboard tip of the blades), as in the closer to the hub you grab,
the better. So again, two people is easier - soft surfaces like carpet to protect
all surfaces of your nice new prop (keep the plastic protection on the
blades, just move them back a bit for visual spinner clearance check) - twist
opposite until the stops are felt and hold it there - make your marks - go cut
- put back on and test it. Tape off all surfaces on the blades so as not to
scratch anything while you are test fitting.
Your other option is as someone else said - wait until it is mounted on the engine,
then the above is even easier.
Your other option is as Bob (TCW) said - controlled Air Pressure applied to the
input (aft) side of the hub. He has a good pic showing what he did on his site
..
Good Luck!
Rich Hansen
> Time: 03:03:27 PM PST US
> From: "Chris Hukill" <cjhukill@cox.net>
> Subject: RV10-List: Prop spinner cutouts
>
> I'm trying to determine the optimum cutout dimensions for the blades on
> the 2 bladed Hartzell blended airfoil prop as Vans sells, using the
> standard spinner kit. The instructions tell you to rotate the blades
> thru full travel to check for clearance, however I don't have an engine
> to mount the prop to yet, and it's not possible to move the blades
> without one. I am trying to get as tight of fit as is possible. I have
> looked at production airplane's installations, and they have a much
> larger clearance than I would consider aesthetic. Has anyone made a
> template or drawings that would provide the dimensions that I need?
> Chris Hukill
>
> ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________
>
Message 3
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Is there some reason I can't find the Bonaco Standard RV10DBL kit on
their web site. A search turns up 0 items.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
Message 4
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Subject: | Re: Bonaco Web Site |
I don't think they have ever had it there. Just call and ask for RV-10
brake kit. Just decide whether you want both from resevoir to all master
cylinders, any any the tunnel, or just fuselage to brake calipers. They
have dimensions for all of that.
On Mon, Oct 21, 2013 at 12:58 PM, Dave Fritzsche (Building) <
dfritz@bpgsim.com> wrote:
> dfritz@bpgsim.com>
>
> Is there some reason I can't find the Bonaco Standard RV10DBL kit on their
> web site. A search turns up 0 items.
>
> Dave
>
> --
> ~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
> Dave Fritzsche
> 40813
> Puyallup, WA
> Wings
>
>
--
- sent from the microchip implanted in my forearm
Message 5
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Subject: | Re: Bonaco Web Site |
Give Tom a call at TSFlightlines
Sent from my iPhone
On Oct 21, 2013, at 3:58 PM, "Dave Fritzsche (Building)" <dfritz@bpgsim.com> wrote:
Is there some reason I can't find the Bonaco Standard RV10DBL kit on their web
site. A search turns up 0 items.
Dave
--
~~~~~~~~~~~~~~
Dave Fritzsche
40813
Puyallup, WA
Wings
Message 6
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to Lycoming,
they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I am just outside
the warranty period.
They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an approved substitute
for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone know what the difference
may be?
Bob
Sent from my iPad
Message 7
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Subject: | Re: Fuel Pump Issue |
Looks like Lycoming has approved that part number. Have no idea the
difference. Maybe different vendor?
On 10/21/2013 4:55 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> After shipping the data logs from my two flights and ground testing to Lycoming,
they are recommending replacing my fuel pump. Naturally, I am just outside
the warranty period.
>
> They recommended a part #62B26931, which I can find that it is an approved substitute
for the installed part, which is a LW15473. Anyone know what the difference
may be?
>
> Bob
>
> Sent from my iPad
>
>
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