Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:36 AM - 680 life (DLM)
2. 08:27 AM - Paint Question (Karol Hansen)
3. 08:38 AM - Re: Re: life of the Odyssey (Bill Watson)
4. 08:47 AM - Re: Paint question (Jackm)
5. 02:02 PM - Rv10 #40458 for sale (John)
Message 1
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I had two 680s in parallel in the aft battery compartment; They had been in
there since first flight in April 2008. The cranking was starting to slow so
I changed them September 2013 after 750TT. One had a manufacture date of
2005 and the other 2007. The batteries were still starting the aircraft but
I felt that I wanted the reliability of two new batteries. Just for
reference , I have a third insulated 680 on the firewall, installed in about
2010 for weight and balance purposes. It is trickle charged from the primary
bus and powers the essential bus if the charging system or the field breaker
fails. I have a picture somewhere but basically I placed both 680s in a
modified tray and used two master contactors 002 wire to send power to the
starter relay.
David McNeill
N46007
Message 2
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Hi Myron,
An exciting time coming for you with paint right around the corner! One consideration
that I didn't see anyone else speak of is skin dimpling. I sort of cringe
thinking of dimpling a nicely painted surface! As you know, the procedure
would be fit the tip, drill it, deburr it, then finally dimple the skin and
c/s the wing tip. Somewhere in there riveting on some platenuts ( nutplates
too) to those tips. Also if you are talking about doing a base coat/clear coat
there is usually a max. 24 hour window between base and clear to consider
- so my thinking is way too much work on those tips for that window? Having
to scuff the base coat and add more is the only option and that doesn't sound
like much fun! Just some thoughts..
Regards,
Rich Hansen
> My airplane will be complete by end of year, just unassembled. I plan to take
it
> to the paint shop in pieces, then do final assembly of the painted parts.
>
> The only potential fly in the ointment I see so far are the wing tips. I've
had
> the wings on for the fairing work, but they are off now. I know it is best
> to match the tips to rigged ailerons. Are there serious potential paint issues
> of attaching the tips after paint? Any other considerations? I'm really hoping
> to not have to assemble everything and tear it down again.
> Thanks in advance.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: life of the Odyssey |
Here's how I mounted my (2) 680s for a Z-14
http://www.mykitlog.com/users/display_log.php?user=MauleDriver&project=224&category=2155&log=43554&row=26
It's been working great thru 350hours.
Bill Watson
On 11/20/2013 5:18 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> How did you mount the two 680s...just looking at dimentions, I don't thinbk they
will sit side by side in the stock battery tray.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413612#413612
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Paint question |
Myron,
We just received ours back from paint. As far as wing tips, we had to cut them
to length and slit the rear edge apart in order to match to align. Both tips had
a tip up and it was impossible on ours to align with out cutting them apart.
One thing I will mention is our painter had experience with finishing and painting
Lancair, I think he did a excellent job around the windows and I hope no
cracking the way they did this. I can send you some pictures if you are interested.
--------
Jackm
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413655#413655
Message 5
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| Subject: | Rv10 #40458 for sale |
Hey folks - one of the nicest and best equipped 10s is for sale. I won't be flying
any more for health reasons. Drop me a line for an extensive description and
pics.
John Ackerman. Johnag5b@cableone.net. 928-308-0471
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