Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:55 AM - Re: Seat question (woxofswa)
2. 06:00 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Kelly McMullen)
3. 06:20 AM - Re: Seat question (woxofswa)
4. 06:23 AM - Re: Seat question (johngoodman)
5. 06:24 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Kelly McMullen)
6. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson)
7. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
8. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson)
9. 09:53 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
10. 03:56 PM - Re: Re: Seat question (David Maib)
11. 08:59 PM - Re: Seat question (dhmoose)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside.
I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover.
Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft
to clear the cover?
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
The seats can also be mounted from the front if you just unbolt the
stick and lay it out of the way.
On 11/23/2013 6:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the
inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell
cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft
to clear the cover?
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
Great idea Kelly except I ran my wire harness through the stick to a connection
bus ... Under the seat pan.
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413861#413861
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
Take a look at this VAF forum link - it explains the track mod:
http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57756&highlight=seat+rail+mod
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413862#413862
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
You don't have to take stick off, just take bolt out and lay it on the
floor. Hopefully you left some slack in the wiring.
On 11/23/2013 7:20 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Great idea Kelly except I ran my wire harness through the stick to a connection
bus ... Under the seat pan.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413861#413861
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal
part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally
there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at
the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the
rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).
It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped
out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did
bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can
be done now or later.
I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed
rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This
requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it
looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not
obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.
Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't
find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work.
Bill Watson
On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the
inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell
cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft
to clear the cover?
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
Yes. There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail. As others have done,
I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends, beveled the
tips and re-installed. I also swapped my seat rails and seat's so that the
T handles are now next to the tunnel. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats
in this location. Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though
the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts with
longer ones. I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible
bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails. No
fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get the seats off any longer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal
part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally
there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at
the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the
rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).
It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped
out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did
bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can
be done now or later.
I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed
rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This
requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it
looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not
obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.
Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't
find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work.
Bill Watson
On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the
inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover.
Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft
to clear the cover?
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
If I understand correctly, that negates the need to anything with the
T-handles. (I have to keep them outboard due to an center console/O2 tank).
I took a half hearted look at how the rear seat stops worked but
couldn't figure it out. I'll have to take another look. Thanks!
Bill
On 11/23/2013 9:59 AM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
> Yes. There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail. As
> others have done, I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the
> forward ends, beveled the tips and re-installed. I also swapped my
> seat rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the
> tunnel. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this location.
> Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though the
> seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts
> with longer ones. I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2
> easily accessible bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft,
> and off the rails. No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T
> handle to get the seats off any longer.
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
> *To: *rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Sent: *Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM
> *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
>
>
> The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal
> part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally
> there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at
> the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the
> rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).
>
> It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped
> out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did
> bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can
> be done now or later.
>
> I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed
> rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This
> requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it
> looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not
> obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.
>
> Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't
> find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work.
>
> Bill Watson
> On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:
> >
> > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut
> plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea
> to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to
> clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover?
> >
> > --------
> > Myron Nelson
> > Mesa, AZ
> > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF
> complete.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> ><-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)<=============
>
>
> *
>
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
That's right Bill. No need to remove the T handles to remove the seat doing it
this way.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 11:54:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
If I understand correctly, that negates the need to anything with the T-handles.
(I have to keep them outboard due to an center console/O2 tank).
I took a half hearted look at how the rear seat stops worked but couldn't figure
it out. I'll have to take another look. Thanks!
Bill
On 11/23/2013 9:59 AM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
Yes. There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail. As others have done,
I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends, beveled the
tips and re-installed. I also swapped my seat rails and seat's so that the
T handles are now next to the tunnel. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats
in this location. Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though
the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts with
longer ones. I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible
bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails. No
fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get the seats off any longer.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal
part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally
there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at
the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the
rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).
It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped
out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did
bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can
be done now or later.
I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed
rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This
requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it
looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not
obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.
Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't
find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work.
Bill Watson
On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the
inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover.
Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft
to clear the cover?
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
><-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)<==============
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
I believe I beveled the delrin without even removing it from the seat
structure. Took all of five minutes.
David Maib
40559
700 hours
On Nov 23, 2013, at 9:29 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal
part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally
there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at
the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the
rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect).
It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped
out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did
bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can
be done now or later.
I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed
rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This
requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it
looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not
obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does.
Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't
find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work.
Bill Watson
On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote:
>
> Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates
on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear
the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail
or trimming the aft to clear the cover?
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF
complete.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
David Maib
dmaib@me.com
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
schmoboy wrote:
> I "altered or modified" for the same reasons you mentioned. :)
>
> See here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephensville/9684701079/
>
>
Bingo! This is exactly what I had in mind to avoid removal of the seat cushion.
I was concerned about modifying the seat rail and also about access for the bolt.
Are you happy on both accounts?
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Electrical/avionics
Portland, OR
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413905#413905
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