---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Sat 11/23/13: 11 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:55 AM - Re: Seat question (woxofswa) 2. 06:00 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Kelly McMullen) 3. 06:20 AM - Re: Seat question (woxofswa) 4. 06:23 AM - Re: Seat question (johngoodman) 5. 06:24 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Kelly McMullen) 6. 06:29 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson) 7. 06:59 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) 8. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson) 9. 09:53 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) 10. 03:56 PM - Re: Re: Seat question (David Maib) 11. 08:59 PM - Re: Seat question (dhmoose) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:55:38 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Seat question From: "woxofswa" Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 06:00:21 AM PST US From: Kelly McMullen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question The seats can also be mounted from the front if you just unbolt the stick and lay it out of the way. On 11/23/2013 6:54 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:20:59 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Seat question From: "woxofswa" Great idea Kelly except I ran my wire harness through the stick to a connection bus ... Under the seat pan. -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413861#413861 ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:23:52 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Seat question From: "johngoodman" Take a look at this VAF forum link - it explains the track mod: http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=57756&highlight=seat+rail+mod John -------- #40572 Phase One complete and flying. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413862#413862 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 06:24:20 AM PST US From: Kelly McMullen Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question You don't have to take stick off, just take bolt out and lay it on the floor. Hopefully you left some slack in the wiring. On 11/23/2013 7:20 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > Great idea Kelly except I ran my wire harness through the stick to a connection bus ... Under the seat pan. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413861#413861 > > ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 06:29:24 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect). It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can be done now or later. I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does. Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work. Bill Watson On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 > > ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 06:59:43 AM PST US From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question Yes. There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail. As others have done, I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends, beveled the tips and re-installed. I also swapped my seat rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the tunnel. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this location. Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts with longer ones. I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails. No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get the seats off any longer. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Watson" Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect). It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can be done now or later. I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does. Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work. Bill Watson On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:55:28 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question If I understand correctly, that negates the need to anything with the T-handles. (I have to keep them outboard due to an center console/O2 tank). I took a half hearted look at how the rear seat stops worked but couldn't figure it out. I'll have to take another look. Thanks! Bill On 11/23/2013 9:59 AM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote: > Yes. There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail. As > others have done, I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the > forward ends, beveled the tips and re-installed. I also swapped my > seat rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the > tunnel. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this location. > Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though the > seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts > with longer ones. I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 > easily accessible bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, > and off the rails. No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T > handle to get the seats off any longer. > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Bill Watson" > *To: *rv10-list@matronics.com > *Sent: *Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM > *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question > > > The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal > part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally > there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at > the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the > rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect). > > It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped > out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did > bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can > be done now or later. > > I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed > rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This > requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it > looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not > obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does. > > Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't > find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work. > > Bill Watson > On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > > > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut > plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea > to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to > clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? > > > > -------- > > Myron Nelson > > Mesa, AZ > > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF > complete. > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ><-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)<============= > > > * > > * ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 09:53:31 AM PST US From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question That's right Bill. No need to remove the T handles to remove the seat doing it this way. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Watson" Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 11:54:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question If I understand correctly, that negates the need to anything with the T-handles. (I have to keep them outboard due to an center console/O2 tank). I took a half hearted look at how the rear seat stops worked but couldn't figure it out. I'll have to take another look. Thanks! Bill On 11/23/2013 9:59 AM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote: Yes. There is absolutely no reason to trim the rear seat rail. As others have done, I removed the insert guides and took 3/8" off the forward ends, beveled the tips and re-installed. I also swapped my seat rails and seat's so that the T handles are now next to the tunnel. Makes it a lot easier to adjust the seats in this location. Finally, I removed the seat rail rear stops and drilled though the seat pedestals and installed nut-plates and replaced the AN4 bolts with longer ones. I can now remove my seats very easily by removing 2 easily accessible bolts holding the stop and sliding the seats aft, and off the rails. No fooling around and no need to unbolt the T handle to get the seats off any longer. ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Watson" Sent: Saturday, November 23, 2013 9:29:00 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect). It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can be done now or later. I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does. Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work. Bill Watson On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 > > > > > > > > > ><-= (And Get Some AWESOME FREE Gifts!)<============== ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 03:56:32 PM PST US From: David Maib Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question I believe I beveled the delrin without even removing it from the seat structure. Took all of five minutes. David Maib 40559 700 hours On Nov 23, 2013, at 9:29 AM, Bill Watson wrote: The forward part of the Delrin/Nylon guide to clear the rail. The metal part of the guide that the Nylon mounts in is not touched so externally there is no visible change. (You'll see when you take a close look at the seat hardware while installing/removing a seat that trimming the rear part of the Nylon guide would have no effect). It requires removing several bolts so the Nylon guides can be slipped out, shortened by 3/8" (I don't think any bevel is required though I did bevel mine) and reinstalled. A painless and easy bit of work that can be done now or later. I think the first people that tried to address this situation trimmed rear part of the rail itself. It's the most obvious approach. This requires some metal grinding. Though the results are mostly hidden, it looks a bit raw if not finished and requires more work. It's not obvious that trimming the Nylon guide would work but it does. Others have some pics posted elsewhere on both approaches but I can't find them easily. I wish I had photographed my work. Bill Watson On 11/23/2013 8:54 AM, woxofswa wrote: > > Thanks for the responses. I think I'm going to go with the nut plates on the inside. I am intrigued by the rail guide trimming idea to clear the footwell cover. Are you trimming the forward part to clear the rail or trimming the aft to clear the cover? > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413859#413859 > > > > > > > > > > > David Maib dmaib@me.com ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:59:24 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Seat question From: "dhmoose" schmoboy wrote: > I "altered or modified" for the same reasons you mentioned. :) > > See here - http://www.flickr.com/photos/stephensville/9684701079/ > > Bingo! This is exactly what I had in mind to avoid removal of the seat cushion. I was concerned about modifying the seat rail and also about access for the bolt. Are you happy on both accounts? -------- David Halmos RV-10 Electrical/avionics Portland, OR Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413905#413905 ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.