Today's Message Index:
----------------------
0. 12:49 AM - [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... (Matt Dralle)
1. 06:39 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson)
2. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (davidsoutpost@comcast.net)
3. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson)
4. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Seat question (Gordon Anderson)
Message 0
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| Subject: | [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... |
>From the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from
advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap
into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have
always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user
is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't
want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly
endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing
rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb
to that.
That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot
of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning,
maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser
each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email
every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the
operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory.
Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine.
However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution
and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's
it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the
Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement
or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum
that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way.
Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these
Lists?
http://www.matronics.com/contribution
Or, drop a personal check in the mail to:
Matt Dralle / Matronics
581 Jeannie Way
Livermore CA 94550
USA
Thank you for your support!
Matt Dralle
Email List Admin.
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
work as well?
Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
> If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it.
The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral
to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through
the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using
longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop
by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright
and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without
removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
>
> This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats.
Remove your seat.
Now remove the pedestal cover
Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop
Remove the stop
Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on
Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes through the
pedestal
Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets
Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble
----- Original Message -----
From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
work as well?
Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
> If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it.
The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral
to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through
the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using
longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop
by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright
and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without
removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
>
> This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers.
>
> --------
> Myron Nelson
> Mesa, AZ
> Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
Much appreciated! Will do at next seat removal... I just did the Delrin
mod but I'll have to wait for the next removal for the stop.
I like it, a lot.
Bill
On 11/25/2013 10:06 AM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
> It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats.
> Remove your seat.
> Now remove the pedestal cover
> Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop
> Remove the stop
> Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on
> Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes
> through the pedestal
> Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets
> Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble
>
>
> ------------------------------------------------------------------------
> *From: *"Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
> *To: *rv10-list@matronics.com
> *Sent: *Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM
> *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
>
>
> That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more
> easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
> nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could
> work as well?
>
> Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
>
> On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
> > If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can
> grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by
> two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those
> bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add
> nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to
> the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on
> an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible.
> With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without
> removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
> >
> > This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks
> fellers.
> >
> > --------
> > Myron Nelson
> > Mesa, AZ
> > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF
> complete.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
> *
>
> *
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Seat question |
Excellent tips, thanks to all.
I was just at this point in the build and have spent the evening fitting
up the seat rails and looking at whether to put the plunger inboard or
outboard. It struck me that there is very little clearance (max 40thou)
between the plunger and tunnel cover in the inboard position - not
enough for any carpet to fit in the gap. Has anyone else experienced
this?
Incidentally I had already fitted my T-handles with a cheap and cheerful
extension by using a loop of bowden cable inner (bicycle brake cable)
through the roll pin, fastened with some heat shrink. Cost about 1USD
and took 15 minutes for both sides.
Gordon Anderson
41015 Switzerland
On Nov 25, 2013, at 4:06 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote:
> It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both
seats.
> Remove your seat.
> Now remove the pedestal cover
> Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop
> Remove the stop
> Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on
> Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes
through the pedestal
> Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets
> Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble
>
>
> From: "Bill Watson" <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question
>
>
> That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much
more
> easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if
> nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal
could
> work as well?
>
> Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson
>
> On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote:
> > If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can
grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by
two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those
bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add
nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to
the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an
extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With
the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the
T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off.
> >
> > This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks
fellers.
> >
> > --------
> > Myron Nelson
> > Mesa, AZ
> > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF
complete.
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
>
>
>
>
>
>
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