---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Mon 11/25/13: 5 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 0. 12:49 AM - [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... (Matt Dralle) 1. 06:39 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson) 2. 07:07 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (davidsoutpost@comcast.net) 3. 08:24 AM - Re: Re: Seat question (Bill Watson) 4. 02:47 PM - Re: Re: Seat question (Gordon Anderson) ________________________________ Message 0 _____________________________________ Time: 12:49:59 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV10-List: [PLEASE READ] Why I Have A Fund Raiser... >From the beginning, the Matronics List and Forum experience has been free from advertising. I have been approached by fair number of vendors wanting to tap into the large volume of activity across the various lists hosted here, but have always flatly refused. Everywhere you go on the Internet these days, a user is pummeled with flashing banners and videos and ads for crap that they don't want. Yahoo, Google and that elk are not "free". The user must constantly endure their barrage of commercialism thrust into their face at an ever increasing rate. Enough is enough, and the Lists at Matronics choose not to succumb to that. That being said, running a service of this size is not "free". It costs a lot of money to maintain the hardware, pay for the electricity, air conditioning, maintenance contracts, etc, etc. etc. I choose to hold a PBS-like fund raiser each year during the month of November where I simply send out a short email every other day asking the members to make a small contribution to support the operation. That being said, that contribution is completely voluntary and non-compulsory. Many members choose not to contribute and that's fine. However, a very modest percentage of the members do choose to make a contribution and it is that financial support that keeps the Lists running. And that's it. To my way of thinking, it is a much more pleasant way of maintaining the Lists and Forums. The other 11 months of the year, you don't see a single advertisement or request for support. That's refreshing and that is a List and Forum that I want to belong to. I think other people feel the same way. Won't you please take a minute to make your Contribution today and support these Lists? http://www.matronics.com/contribution Or, drop a personal check in the mail to: Matt Dralle / Matronics 581 Jeannie Way Livermore CA 94550 USA Thank you for your support! Matt Dralle Email List Admin. ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 06:39:06 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could work as well? Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote: > If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off. > > This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956 > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 07:07:03 AM PST US From: davidsoutpost@comcast.net Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats. Remove your seat. Now remove the pedestal cover Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop Remove the stop Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes through the pedestal Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble ----- Original Message ----- From: "Bill Watson" Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could work as well? Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote: > If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off. > > This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers. > > -------- > Myron Nelson > Mesa, AZ > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956 > > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 08:24:01 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question Much appreciated! Will do at next seat removal... I just did the Delrin mod but I'll have to wait for the next removal for the stop. I like it, a lot. Bill On 11/25/2013 10:06 AM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote: > It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats. > Remove your seat. > Now remove the pedestal cover > Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop > Remove the stop > Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on > Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes > through the pedestal > Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets > Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------ > *From: *"Bill Watson" > *To: *rv10-list@matronics.com > *Sent: *Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM > *Subject: *Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question > > > That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more > easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if > nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could > work as well? > > Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson > > On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can > grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by > two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those > bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add > nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to > the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on > an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. > With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without > removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off. > > > > This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks > fellers. > > > > -------- > > Myron Nelson > > Mesa, AZ > > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF > complete. > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > * > > * ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 02:47:04 PM PST US From: Gordon Anderson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question Excellent tips, thanks to all. I was just at this point in the build and have spent the evening fitting up the seat rails and looking at whether to put the plunger inboard or outboard. It struck me that there is very little clearance (max 40thou) between the plunger and tunnel cover in the inboard position - not enough for any carpet to fit in the gap. Has anyone else experienced this? Incidentally I had already fitted my T-handles with a cheap and cheerful extension by using a loop of bowden cable inner (bicycle brake cable) through the roll pin, fastened with some heat shrink. Cost about 1USD and took 15 minutes for both sides. Gordon Anderson 41015 Switzerland On Nov 25, 2013, at 4:06 PM, davidsoutpost@comcast.net wrote: > It's not a big job at all. It took me about 45 minutes to do both seats. > Remove your seat. > Now remove the pedestal cover > Unscrew the seat rail with the rear seat stop > Remove the stop > Use a few screws for location and screw the rail back on > Using the empty seat stop mounting holes as guides, drill 1/4" holes through the pedestal > Remove rail again and install 1/4" nut plates with flush rivets > Modify delrin glide inserts and re-assemble > > > From: "Bill Watson" > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Sent: Monday, November 25, 2013 9:37:52 AM > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Seat question > > > That helps. Now I think I get it but it sounds like something much more > easily done during the build than post-build, correct? At least if > nutplates are involved. But tapping the new hole in seat pedestal could > work as well? > > Bill "Dues? I thought it was a tribute" Watson > > On 11/24/2013 10:00 PM, woxofswa wrote: > > If I may be so cheeky as to restate that one so a dummy like me can grasp it. The rear stop on the notched seat rail is held in place by two bolts/nuts integral to the rail piece itself. If you remove those bolts, drill down through the underlying seat pedestal cover, and add nutplates to the bottom, by using longer bolts that now reach down to the nutplate, you can remove the rear stop by with a simple socket on an extension to the bolt heads that are now upright and accessible. With the rear stop removed, you can slide the seat out without removing the T-handle apparatus at all. Easy on/easy off. > > > > This one thread has made the annual dues worthwhile for me. Thanks fellers. > > > > -------- > > Myron Nelson > > Mesa, AZ > > Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=413956#413956 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.