Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 08:13 AM - Re: Re: rudder trim RV-10 (Tim Olson)
2. 08:22 AM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Tim Olson)
3. 09:59 AM - Re: Re: rudder trim RV-10 (Linn Walters)
4. 10:26 AM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Rob Kermanj)
5. 11:00 AM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Bob Leffler)
6. 11:59 AM - Re: Re: rudder trim RV-10 (Nikolaos Napoli)
7. 12:11 PM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Sean Stephens)
8. 12:36 PM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Bob Leffler)
9. 01:03 PM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Sean Stephens)
10. 08:03 PM - Re: EZ Heat engine block heater (Sheldon Olesen)
11. 08:36 PM - Re: Re: rudder trim RV-10 (Bill Watson)
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim RV-10 |
It's always funny to watch this thread pop up, it's almost like someone has
it on their calendar to re-start the debate every 4 or 6 months.
Basically, my thoughts on Rudder trim are these:
First and foremost, rudder trim is not something that is a one-size-fits-all
thing. It is not a NEEDED thing, and it isn't a big safety thing.
There isn't
any reason people HAVE to have rudder trim. I flew something like
285 hours before I had any rudder trim, flying with a wooden block painted
to match and attached and in general it was nearly sufficient.
Nearly.
Everyone flies a different mission, and I fly very little short-hop local
flights. I probably spend over 90% of my flying on longer legs.
Some of them loaded to gross wt. Some light. Some in between.
Airspeeds vary between 150kts and 170kts. It all depends.
In that environment, those first 285 hours had the annoyance of
always requiring a foot on a pedal putting just the right pressure
on to keep in trim. What happens if you are not in trim? Well, it's
worse than just having a constant crab angle....the view out the
window is tilted. To have a nice level horizon, you need to be in trim.
I find it annoying to not be level....because it just isn't right, and
shouldn't be that way. For a short hop you wouldn't even notice
it. But, if you are an X/C flier, it is a pain.
A rudder block, or fixed tab (bendable), would suffice if you almost always
fly the same speeds and weights. It is simple, easy, and as Pascal
did, the bendable tab is about as simple and easy and quick to do as you
can get. For a static tab I think I prefer the wedge block, for
aesthetics,
but once you have it set right, it will fix probably much of your trim
issues. Some of my trips pre-trim were ok. Many of them were not.
It all depended on if I flew LOP, ROP, heavy, or light. It's not wrong to
go that way. For many people, you'll be satisfied.
Then there's the spring-bias trim. Now that there are good choices
out there, I think this is a plenty reasonable alternative for many.
As Sean mentioned, it does give some spring to the rudder to prevent
minor movement in light breeze. It does not at all mean you don't
need a gust lock. It's fairly simple to install, and should do the job
pretty well. Personally, I would recommend that if you go with spring
bias trim, you also do a fixed wedge to correct most of it. That way
the spring bias is nearly 100% neutralized most of the time, and
you only use it slightly. There's nothing at all wrong with the
spring bias trim, and I think many people will love it. It's the minimum
that I personally would be happy with....and it can be added post-build,
so that's nice too.
Then there's the adjustable tab trim. This is what I have.
It's something that I *personally* would absolutely do again,
and my preference hasn't changed...I'd do it the same way. In fact, I'll be
rebuilding my rudder someday and I plan to incorporate it almost identically
into the new build. I had debated adding a cutout tab, but I don't know
if it's
worth the work and the increased thinking about how to structurally
reinforce
things. The hinge tab on the trailing edge is simple, works well, and
is fairly
minimal impact. I don't remember exactly (I think it's in my write-up)
how long
it took, but I'm sure it wasn't more than one weekend, with the bulk of it
being one evening. So time invested was minimal. To me, aerodynamic
trim like this is about as good as you can get for trimming. You're actually
trimming your flying surface of the rudder to be in trim, just like you do
with the elevator. It means that there is no tension on either rudder
cable in flight, which isn't necessarily a benefit...it just means that the
rudder has no need for any actuation to keep it perfect. I actually
think a little spring return on the pedals may be a good thing, but again,
there are ways that it will also be less convenient. Van's has a very
simple system, and any change to it adds some degree of
negative side, even if there is a benefit added. The world isn't
100% black or 100% white....anything you do will involve a little
grey. The biggest downside to the electric trim is that you will be BETTER
off doing it pre-paint. I did mine post-paint and while it turned out good,
it would have been better pre-paint. The biggest upside is
the absolute perfect adjustment to trim with no effect on the pedals
or feel whatsoever. Do I use it, yes....I just did a round trip to Florida
and I used it on that trip both ways. I had a sloped horizon at one point
that was ticking me off, so I trimmed it out. It worked well. But, it's not
necessarily "better" than any other method. All of them can work.
I do think that for most x/c fliers, at least those who are really in tune
to their airplane, will enjoy at least some form of adjustable trim.
I also think that for those who don't have adjustable trim, their opinions
may actually change as they fly more and more long x/c legs. The fact
is, trim is not a static thing unless all flight characteristics are
also static....it's just the individual's toleration for imperfection as it
gets more out of trim.
It's just funny to see the thread come back again and again.
You can ask if rudder trim is needed, and either answer, Yes or No,
is correct. And which system is best? Well, that is all up to
the builder too. You're going to find satisfied people with ANY method.
So I'd encourage the builder to actually sit and think about it on their
own. Spend some time pondering it. Then just pick one and go.
Aileron trim....that I think is needed. Yes, there are those who don't
agree,
but the -10 tanks are so long, and it doesn't take too much imbalance to
develop that rolling tendency. You can minimize it with good fuel
management, but if this one were put to a vote, my guess is you'd
have maybe 5-10% of the people who fly lots of X/C time who
would vote no.
Rudder trim, if electric, would be ok either at full speed or reduced.
If you have safety trim, which is probably ideal from a simplicity
standpoint in wiring, I'd just do speed reduction so you can be
very precise. Otherwise, full-speed will work.
Aileron trim you'll want to run full speed for sure.
Elevator trim I believe is a safety issue if you don't do speed reduction
on it, but ONLY at airspeeds over 100 or 110kts. You definitely
want full speed when in the pattern. But you absolutely don't want
full speed while flying. It is just too dangerous if you get a stuck
switch, shorted ground, bumped switch, or anything that could cause
more than 1 second of accidental trim. Even 1 second of accidental
trim is almost guaranteed to cause you to bust your IFR assigned
altitude, so even from that aspect it's just not worth leaving it full
speed. Yes, I also flew many hours with only full-speed trim, but
that wasn't incident free. It did work, and I learned to live with it
for a while, but there are safety issues and I think Safety Trim basically
fixed all those issues for me. This isn't meant to be a plug for
Safety Trim, because it gets annoying when people constantly
plug products on the forums, but, they did a great job on it.
If you have Vertical Power and do it there, fine. If you did a
roll-your own, fine. Even if you don't deal with runaway trim,
you really need to do something to have a dual-stage speed
on the trim. Do it however you want...but just do it.
Tim
On 12/8/2013 10:29 AM, Pascal wrote:
>
> I mentioned the tab, that fellow Don McDonald helped me create and it
> was not a big deal. You grab a piece of aluminum, 4" X 2" and you bend
> it slightly. Fly and see what happens at cruise. adjust as needed and
> repeat flight until ball is centered. If I add up the cost of gas I
> guess it was about $75, except I was flying anyway so it was
> practically free. My ball is centered than not and I rarely need to
> adjust it in cruise, John is right on, once you get the rudder tab
> tuned in there is very little trim adjustments needed.
> I know Tim Olson went the route of the trim tab to electronic trim, I
> would encourage all you debating this to check out his extensive
> review and steps to do oneself.
> Pascal
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
I'm not sure if this is compatible or not, but, my Reiff preheater works
very well and it
uses a similar sump pad (although it's more of a metal pad?)
But, it adds the addition of cylinder base band-type heaters (like a
long skinny
hose clamp) to the engine. I find those actually work very very well.
I'm not sure if you could potentially add their cylinder band heaters to
your
sump heater, but if you live in a very cold area, it may be worth it.
I find that with my Reiff, I can go fly when it's 10 degrees out and my
cylinders
will still be near 90F. I can't remember for sure, but it seems that even
on the coldest days they're still in the 70's or 80's minimum, and you get
a more even full-engine heat that way. You wouldn't want sludgy oil
in the more external passages.
The only part I don't have is their oil filter heater. I have been
contemplating
adding that one too. For sure, if I were flying today here in Wisconsin I
would prefer it....but I haven't splurged yet.
Tim
On 12/8/2013 6:11 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
> couple of pictures of my installation just in case someone is planning the same.
>
> The installation instructions are conceptual and not directly related to IO540.
Basically, place the pads where you they fit.
>
> The throttle body and the cable bracket had to come out to accommodate the installation.
Of course easiest installation during the building process.
>
> Have not fired it up yet, 24 hrs needed to cure. Costs $185 including shipping
from AS.
>
> Do not archive.
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim RV-10 |
Absolutely, without a doubt, an excellent post. I really learned a lot
and also got some valuable info.
I agree that building a stock airframe isn't 'bad' except to say that
departure from the plans adds immense additional build time. At least it
does for me.
I chose to use model airplane servos because of the light weight (one of
my 'hot buttons') and low cost. Ease of installation using the hinge
method is also a plus. However I had to install a pulse width
controller for the servos ..... and instead of a simple 555 chip I chose
to do it with an evaluation processor so I could control it's speed and
position 'better'. Because I can!
I have already wired the elevator trim and flap controls through relays
and thanks to Tim's take on the elevator trim speed I'll go ahead and
add both of them to the processor program to 'pulse' the relays and
thereby control the speed of those two functions as well. Making the
speed variable with the length of time the button is pressed becomes a
simple programming task. The change does, however, add to my build
time, but I take Tim's concern with elevator trim speed as a safety
factor seriously.
As for Tim's 'funny part' ..... I don't think there's real effort to
start a food fight every so often. I like to search a subject to see
what has been written before but may post the same question again since
there's more 'experience' gained by those fortunate to get their project
finished and gaining additional knowledge on whether the mods they made
were successful or a waste of time.
OK, lunch is over so it's back to building!!!
Linn
On 12/9/2013 11:12 AM, Tim Olson wrote:
>
> It's always funny to watch this thread pop up, it's almost like
> someone has
> it on their calendar to re-start the debate every 4 or 6 months.
>
> Basically, my thoughts on Rudder trim are these:
>
> First and foremost, rudder trim is not something that is a
> one-size-fits-all
> thing. It is not a NEEDED thing, and it isn't a big safety thing.
> There isn't
> any reason people HAVE to have rudder trim. I flew something like
> 285 hours before I had any rudder trim, flying with a wooden block
> painted
> to match and attached and in general it was nearly sufficient.
> Nearly.
>
> Everyone flies a different mission, and I fly very little short-hop local
> flights. I probably spend over 90% of my flying on longer legs.
> Some of them loaded to gross wt. Some light. Some in between.
> Airspeeds vary between 150kts and 170kts. It all depends.
> In that environment, those first 285 hours had the annoyance of
> always requiring a foot on a pedal putting just the right pressure
> on to keep in trim. What happens if you are not in trim? Well, it's
> worse than just having a constant crab angle....the view out the
> window is tilted. To have a nice level horizon, you need to be in trim.
> I find it annoying to not be level....because it just isn't right, and
> shouldn't be that way. For a short hop you wouldn't even notice
> it. But, if you are an X/C flier, it is a pain.
>
> A rudder block, or fixed tab (bendable), would suffice if you almost
> always
> fly the same speeds and weights. It is simple, easy, and as Pascal
> did, the bendable tab is about as simple and easy and quick to do as you
> can get. For a static tab I think I prefer the wedge block, for
> aesthetics,
> but once you have it set right, it will fix probably much of your trim
> issues. Some of my trips pre-trim were ok. Many of them were not.
> It all depended on if I flew LOP, ROP, heavy, or light. It's not
> wrong to
> go that way. For many people, you'll be satisfied.
>
> Then there's the spring-bias trim. Now that there are good choices
> out there, I think this is a plenty reasonable alternative for many.
> As Sean mentioned, it does give some spring to the rudder to prevent
> minor movement in light breeze. It does not at all mean you don't
> need a gust lock. It's fairly simple to install, and should do the job
> pretty well. Personally, I would recommend that if you go with spring
> bias trim, you also do a fixed wedge to correct most of it. That way
> the spring bias is nearly 100% neutralized most of the time, and
> you only use it slightly. There's nothing at all wrong with the
> spring bias trim, and I think many people will love it. It's the minimum
> that I personally would be happy with....and it can be added post-build,
> so that's nice too.
>
> Then there's the adjustable tab trim. This is what I have.
> It's something that I *personally* would absolutely do again,
> and my preference hasn't changed...I'd do it the same way. In fact,
> I'll be
> rebuilding my rudder someday and I plan to incorporate it almost
> identically
> into the new build. I had debated adding a cutout tab, but I don't
> know if it's
> worth the work and the increased thinking about how to structurally
> reinforce
> things. The hinge tab on the trailing edge is simple, works well, and
> is fairly
> minimal impact. I don't remember exactly (I think it's in my
> write-up) how long
> it took, but I'm sure it wasn't more than one weekend, with the bulk
> of it
> being one evening. So time invested was minimal. To me, aerodynamic
> trim like this is about as good as you can get for trimming. You're
> actually
> trimming your flying surface of the rudder to be in trim, just like
> you do
> with the elevator. It means that there is no tension on either rudder
> cable in flight, which isn't necessarily a benefit...it just means
> that the
> rudder has no need for any actuation to keep it perfect. I actually
> think a little spring return on the pedals may be a good thing, but
> again,
> there are ways that it will also be less convenient. Van's has a very
> simple system, and any change to it adds some degree of
> negative side, even if there is a benefit added. The world isn't
> 100% black or 100% white....anything you do will involve a little
> grey. The biggest downside to the electric trim is that you will be
> BETTER
> off doing it pre-paint. I did mine post-paint and while it turned out
> good,
> it would have been better pre-paint. The biggest upside is
> the absolute perfect adjustment to trim with no effect on the pedals
> or feel whatsoever. Do I use it, yes....I just did a round trip to
> Florida
> and I used it on that trip both ways. I had a sloped horizon at one
> point
> that was ticking me off, so I trimmed it out. It worked well. But,
> it's not
> necessarily "better" than any other method. All of them can work.
>
> I do think that for most x/c fliers, at least those who are really in
> tune
> to their airplane, will enjoy at least some form of adjustable trim.
> I also think that for those who don't have adjustable trim, their
> opinions
> may actually change as they fly more and more long x/c legs. The fact
> is, trim is not a static thing unless all flight characteristics are
> also static....it's just the individual's toleration for imperfection
> as it
> gets more out of trim.
>
> It's just funny to see the thread come back again and again.
> You can ask if rudder trim is needed, and either answer, Yes or No,
> is correct. And which system is best? Well, that is all up to
> the builder too. You're going to find satisfied people with ANY method.
> So I'd encourage the builder to actually sit and think about it on their
> own. Spend some time pondering it. Then just pick one and go.
>
> Aileron trim....that I think is needed. Yes, there are those who don't
> agree,
> but the -10 tanks are so long, and it doesn't take too much imbalance to
> develop that rolling tendency. You can minimize it with good fuel
> management, but if this one were put to a vote, my guess is you'd
> have maybe 5-10% of the people who fly lots of X/C time who
> would vote no.
>
> Rudder trim, if electric, would be ok either at full speed or reduced.
> If you have safety trim, which is probably ideal from a simplicity
> standpoint in wiring, I'd just do speed reduction so you can be
> very precise. Otherwise, full-speed will work.
>
> Aileron trim you'll want to run full speed for sure.
>
> Elevator trim I believe is a safety issue if you don't do speed reduction
> on it, but ONLY at airspeeds over 100 or 110kts. You definitely
> want full speed when in the pattern. But you absolutely don't want
> full speed while flying. It is just too dangerous if you get a stuck
> switch, shorted ground, bumped switch, or anything that could cause
> more than 1 second of accidental trim. Even 1 second of accidental
> trim is almost guaranteed to cause you to bust your IFR assigned
> altitude, so even from that aspect it's just not worth leaving it full
> speed. Yes, I also flew many hours with only full-speed trim, but
> that wasn't incident free. It did work, and I learned to live with it
> for a while, but there are safety issues and I think Safety Trim
> basically
> fixed all those issues for me. This isn't meant to be a plug for
> Safety Trim, because it gets annoying when people constantly
> plug products on the forums, but, they did a great job on it.
> If you have Vertical Power and do it there, fine. If you did a
> roll-your own, fine. Even if you don't deal with runaway trim,
> you really need to do something to have a dual-stage speed
> on the trim. Do it however you want...but just do it.
>
> Tim
>
>
> On 12/8/2013 10:29 AM, Pascal wrote:
>>
>> I mentioned the tab, that fellow Don McDonald helped me create and it
>> was not a big deal. You grab a piece of aluminum, 4" X 2" and you
>> bend it slightly. Fly and see what happens at cruise. adjust as
>> needed and repeat flight until ball is centered. If I add up the cost
>> of gas I guess it was about $75, except I was flying anyway so it was
>> practically free. My ball is centered than not and I rarely need to
>> adjust it in cruise, John is right on, once you get the rudder tab
>> tuned in there is very little trim adjustments needed.
>> I know Tim Olson went the route of the trim tab to electronic trim, I
>> would encourage all you debating this to check out his extensive
>> review and steps to do oneself.
>> Pascal
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
I will be testing mine during Xmas at temps about 20. My operation areas do not
have the Wisconsin sub zero temps. That's the reason I settled for the pads.
They heat up to 300 but keep the oil temps at 165 with a thermostat.
Will give a report next year. Thanks for the comparison.
Rob Kermanj
Sent from my iPhone
> On Dec 9, 2013, at 11:21 AM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
>
> I'm not sure if this is compatible or not, but, my Reiff preheater works very
well and it
> uses a similar sump pad (although it's more of a metal pad?)
> But, it adds the addition of cylinder base band-type heaters (like a long skinny
> hose clamp) to the engine. I find those actually work very very well.
> I'm not sure if you could potentially add their cylinder band heaters to your
> sump heater, but if you live in a very cold area, it may be worth it.
>
> I find that with my Reiff, I can go fly when it's 10 degrees out and my cylinders
> will still be near 90F. I can't remember for sure, but it seems that even
> on the coldest days they're still in the 70's or 80's minimum, and you get
> a more even full-engine heat that way. You wouldn't want sludgy oil
> in the more external passages.
>
> The only part I don't have is their oil filter heater. I have been contemplating
> adding that one too. For sure, if I were flying today here in Wisconsin I
> would prefer it....but I haven't splurged yet.
>
> Tim
>
>> On 12/8/2013 6:11 AM, Rob Kermanj wrote:
>> couple of pictures of my installation just in case someone is planning the same.
>>
>> The installation instructions are conceptual and not directly related to IO540.
Basically, place the pads where you they fit.
>>
>> The throttle body and the cable bracket had to come out to accommodate the installation.
Of course easiest installation during the building process.
>>
>> Have not fired it up yet, 24 hrs needed to cure. Costs $185 including shipping
from AS.
>>
>> Do not archive.
>>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
I have the same Reiff heaters that Tim mentioned. I'm getting similar results.
It was in the twenties this weekend and the temps were in the nineties at start.
I turned on the heat with my cell about four hours before the flight. A
much nicer arrangement that I had with my Cherokee using propane heaters.
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim RV-10 |
I only have about 65 hours on the 10 but I just flew from MD to FL. I found that
it doesnt take much force on the pedals to center the ball and there is enough
friction in the system to keep it there a good part of the time. Right now
I dont see any need for rudder trim.
On the other hand I dont have the wheel pants or landing gear fairings installed
yet and if they arent aligned perfectly rudder trim might become more important
Nikolaos Napoli
> On Dec 6, 2013, at 10:21 PM, bob88 <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>
> Anyone have experience with the electric rudder trim kit that is available for
the RV10? Is rudder trim important in the 10?
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415035#415035
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
Tell me more about this turning on via cell phone thingy.
-Sean #40303
On 12/9/13, 12:59 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I have the same Reiff heaters that Tim mentioned. I'm getting similar results.
It was in the twenties this weekend and the temps were in the nineties at start.
I turned on the heat with my cell about four hours before the flight.
A much nicer arrangement that I had with my Cherokee using propane heaters.
>
>
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
Switchboxcontrol.com
It's got a built in T-Mobile cell phone that can receive and send SMS messages.
It's a prepaid device and the minimum you can load is $10. $10 over three
months gives you more texts than I'll ever need. You can let it go dormant
over the summer.
Works pretty well. I'm sure that you seen Phillips threads on VAF. He also supplies
a simple iOS and/or android app for those that don't want to learn the
SMS syntax
Sent from my iPhone
On Dec 9, 2013, at 3:11 PM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
Tell me more about this turning on via cell phone thingy.
-Sean #40303
> On 12/9/13, 12:59 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> I have the same Reiff heaters that Tim mentioned. I'm getting similar results.
It was in the twenties this weekend and the temps were in the nineties at start.
I turned on the heat with my cell about four hours before the flight.
A much nicer arrangement that I had with my Cherokee using propane heaters.
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
That's awesome. Now I need to figure out how to hook it up to my hangar
heater thermostat to get the hangar from 46 to 64 degrees before I
arrive. :)
On 12/9/13, 2:35 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>
> Switchboxcontrol.com
>
> It's got a built in T-Mobile cell phone that can receive and send SMS messages.
It's a prepaid device and the minimum you can load is $10. $10 over three
months gives you more texts than I'll ever need. You can let it go dormant
over the summer.
>
> Works pretty well. I'm sure that you seen Phillips threads on VAF. He also
supplies a simple iOS and/or android app for those that don't want to learn the
SMS syntax
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 9, 2013, at 3:11 PM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote:
>
>
> Tell me more about this turning on via cell phone thingy.
>
> -Sean #40303
>
>> On 12/9/13, 12:59 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> I have the same Reiff heaters that Tim mentioned. I'm getting similar results.
It was in the twenties this weekend and the temps were in the nineties at start.
I turned on the heat with my cell about four hours before the flight.
A much nicer arrangement that I had with my Cherokee using propane heaters.
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: EZ Heat engine block heater |
Here is a schematic for those of you in cold areas who would like to
preheat your engine or hangar by SMS texts. It uses a Waferstar SMS
relay with 7 available relays. It's available through DHGate on the web.
The rest of the parts are Radio Shack DPDT 12v switching 110v relays and
about 1.5a 12v source. The SMS relay will send a text message to you
telling you that the requested action was done. I used an SMA connector
to RG-58 coax to make an antenna going out the wall of my metal hangar.
I stripped the exterior braid the length of the factory antenna and that
yields a signal strength of under 10 out of 32 which seems to be good
enough. I use an H2O Wireless card from Best Buy at $10 for 3 months.
Texts are $.05 and there will be 4/use.
I use it to turn of the engine heater or the furnace and ceiling fans
either together or singly. Any combination of the seven relays is
possible. The timer section of the schematic is used when I want to
leave early in the AM and don't want to getup the send the message 2-3
hours ahead of time. The timer is preprogrammed for any day with a start
time of 3AM and turns off at 9AM. The system is wired so that heater,
furnace and fans can all be turned on by hand at the hangar.
There was no electrical inspection done this so I have no clue if it
would pass.
I probably got a little carried away with this project but I really like
it.
Sheldon Olesen
N475PV 527hrs
On Dec 9, 2013, at 3:03 PM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com>
wrote:
<sean@stephensville.com>
>
> That's awesome. Now I need to figure out how to hook it up to my
hangar heater thermostat to get the hangar from 46 to 64 degrees before
I arrive. :)
>
>
>
> On 12/9/13, 2:35 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>
>> Switchboxcontrol.com
>>
>> It's got a built in T-Mobile cell phone that can receive and send SMS
messages. It's a prepaid device and the minimum you can load is $10.
$10 over three months gives you more texts than I'll ever need. You
can let it go dormant over the summer.
>>
>> Works pretty well. I'm sure that you seen Phillips threads on VAF.
He also supplies a simple iOS and/or android app for those that don't
want to learn the SMS syntax
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>>
>> On Dec 9, 2013, at 3:11 PM, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com>
wrote:
>>
<sean@stephensville.com>
>>
>> Tell me more about this turning on via cell phone thingy.
>>
>> -Sean #40303
>>
>>> On 12/9/13, 12:59 PM, Bob Leffler wrote:
>>>
>>> I have the same Reiff heaters that Tim mentioned. I'm getting
similar results. It was in the twenties this weekend and the temps were
in the nineties at start. I turned on the heat with my cell about four
hours before the flight. A much nicer arrangement that I had with my
Cherokee using propane heaters.
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: rudder trim RV-10 |
Rudder trim be damned! You are going to love the extra speed you get
with some pants and fairings on that ship.
do not archive
On 12/9/2013 2:50 PM, Nikolaos Napoli wrote:
>
> I only have about 65 hours on the 10 but I just flew from MD to FL. I found
that it doesnt take much force on the pedals to center the ball and there is enough
friction in the system to keep it there a good part of the time. Right
now I dont see any need for rudder trim.
>
> On the other hand I dont have the wheel pants or landing gear fairings installed
yet and if they arent aligned perfectly rudder trim might become more important
>
> Nikolaos Napoli
>
>
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