Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:15 AM - Re: Re: oil filter and B&C alternator (Bob Condrey)
2. 05:54 AM - Re: oil filter and B&C alternator (bcondrey)
3. 06:40 AM - Re: Windshield fairing (johngoodman)
4. 07:00 AM - Re: Re: Windshield fairing (Kelly McMullen)
5. 07:05 AM - Re: Extended Tankage (johngoodman)
6. 07:22 AM - Re: Windshield fairing (johngoodman)
7. 07:22 AM - Re: Re: Extended Tankage (Rodger Todd)
8. 08:58 AM - Re: oil filter and B&C alternator (Bill Watson)
9. 09:26 AM - Re: Extended Tankage (AirMike)
10. 10:33 AM - Re: Extended Tankage (johngoodman)
11. 01:19 PM - Re: Re: Extended Tankage (Carl Froehlich)
12. 05:08 PM - Re: Re: Extended Tankage (Danny Riggs)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: oil filter and B&C alternator |
To make the combo work you need a spacer for both the alternator and oil
filter adapter. For the oil filter adapter it's the 1.4" spacer. For the
SD-20 it's a spacer kit that includes a replacement shear coupling. If you
buy the spacer kit at the same time as the SD-20 they probably swap out the
shear coupling before you get it. The SD-20 spacer is .75". I worked with
Bill (B&C) as the original installation of this combo on an RV-10.
Bob
On Friday, December 20, 2013, Michael Kraus wrote:
> I have a C4B5 and I had no issues getting it to work out. I have the
> angle oil adapter and the B&C vacuum pad SD20. I think the spacer I used
> was 3/4". If you look on their web page under gear driven alternators and
> SD20, you'll find the RV-10 specific info.
>
> http://www.bandc.biz/extensionforsd-20forrv10homebuilt.aspx
>
> -Mike Kraus
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Dec 20, 2013, at 9:19 PM, "dmaib@me.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'dmaib@me.com');>" <dmaib@me.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'dmaib@me.com');>> wrote:
>
> 'dmaib@me.com');>" <dmaib@me.com <javascript:_e({}, 'cvml',
> 'dmaib@me.com');>>
>
> Sounds like most have had no problems. However, I could not make it work.
> I have the B&C 20 Amp Stby Alternator on the vacuum pad and I could not
> find an adapter that would permit me to mount the oil filter. I tried
> various spacers and adapters from B&C and one or two other vendors, to no
> avail. My engine is a C4B5, so that might be the difference. The good news
> is, I decided to bite the bullet and purchase and install the Airwolf
> remote oil filter. I mounted it on the lower RH firewall. Sure makes for
> easy, mess free, oil filter changes. I am glad it turned out that way.
>
> --------
> David Maib
> RV-10 #40559
> Transition Trainer
> New Smyrna Beach, FL
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415945#415945
>
>
> www.iltHELP www.homebuilthelp.comwwwbsp;--> <http://www.mrrace.com>http://www.matrp; -Matt
> Dralle, List Admin. <http://www.matronics.com/contribution>
> ==========================; - The RV10-List Email
> Forumm/Navigator?RV10-List">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>
>
> *
>
> *
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: oil filter and B&C alternator |
Just a little more explanation for those that may have had issues with this and/or
those trying to understand why the spacers.
To install the B&C oil filter adapter on an RV-10 you need to use their 1.4" spacer
regardless of whether or not you intend to also use their SD-20 alternator.
This adapter orients the filter so it's sticking up at about the 11 o'clock
position. The spacer is needed to shift the filter aft for clearance with the
top engine mount cross-member.
If you are installing an SD-20 with a stock oil filter adapter, it will bolt right
up to the stock vacuum pad. If however you've got their oil filter adapter,
one of the SD-20 case screw bosses sticks out far enough that the filter adapter
causes interference. So, the final solution Bill came up with was adding
a 3/4" spacer for the SD-20. This also required that the standard SD-20 shear
coupling get replaced with one that ties into account the extra 3/4". Bill
then made a kit for the SD-20 that includes the spacer, new shear coupling and
longer studs for the vacuum pad. As I said in my earlier post, I'm pretty sure
if you order the SD-20 and kit at the same time that they install the new
shear coupling but it's pretty simple to do yourself.
There are other brands of both angled oil filter adapters and vacuum pad alternators
but I don't know the specifics of what it takes to make all those permutations
work.
Bob
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415969#415969
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
bob88 wrote:
> Does anyone have an opinion and/or experience with the Blue Skunk windshield
fairing?
Yes, I used the M.L. Skunk Works windshield fairing. I got the impression that
Kelly thought that it's a whole windshield, it isn't. All it is, is a replacement
for the built up fiberglass fairing at the bottom of the windshield. It's
simply two partially shaped strips of aluminum that you rivet together and custom
shape to your windshield. With minimum use of a shrinker/stretcher I got a
great fit. As you fit, you will drill cleco holes to hold it in place. Once it's
the way you want, you can glue it to the windshield (I used Silpruf 2000)
and rivet it on. The real purpose of the Silpruf was to give it a good, black,
look on the inside.
It was easy to rivet if the panel is out. Just make sure the holes were drilled
in places not-too-close to anything else, so it's easy to get a bucking bar in
there.
When it comes time to paint, you just feather on some micro to hide it. I am very
pleased with the results and would definitely do it again. By the way, the
price is the same that I paid in 2009.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415973#415973
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
You mis-understood what I wrote (or meant to write).
I understand what it is, just an aluminum strip formed to enclose the
base of the windshield. It is individual choice as to whether you like
that appearance.
If you plan to cover the aluminum with micro to smooth out the
appearance, I'm not sure that you are saving a lot of work. I did the 10
layer fiberglass layup in about 4 stages. I will do final micro work
when our weather warms up a bit. Maybe 10-12 hours total work between
sanding and layup. There will still be glass/micro work around the sides
and top of the windshield as well as side windows.
So you probably can save 6-8 hours overall. Yes, I hate fiberglass work,
which made me consider the aluminum seriously. The glass fairing was not
as bad as I anticipated. Certainly much less than the canopy and doors.
So the pros are time savings and maybe slightly easier removal for
replacement windshield. I choose to hope I never have to replace the
windshield. Never have on the 2 certified aircraft I have owned for a
total 38 years.
Cons are cost and need to do riveting behind instrument panel, and maybe
perceived appearance.
On 12/21/2013 7:39 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
>
> bob88 wrote:
>> Does anyone have an opinion and/or experience with the Blue Skunk windshield
fairing?
>
> Yes, I used the M.L. Skunk Works windshield fairing. I got the impression that
Kelly thought that it's a whole windshield, it isn't. All it is, is a replacement
for the built up fiberglass fairing at the bottom of the windshield. It's
simply two partially shaped strips of aluminum that you rivet together and custom
shape to your windshield. With minimum use of a shrinker/stretcher I got
a great fit. As you fit, you will drill cleco holes to hold it in place. Once
it's the way you want, you can glue it to the windshield (I used Silpruf 2000)
and rivet it on. The real purpose of the Silpruf was to give it a good, black,
look on the inside.
> It was easy to rivet if the panel is out. Just make sure the holes were drilled
in places not-too-close to anything else, so it's easy to get a bucking bar
in there.
> When it comes time to paint, you just feather on some micro to hide it. I am
very pleased with the results and would definitely do it again. By the way, the
price is the same that I paid in 2009.
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415973#415973
>
>
>
>
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Extended Tankage |
Rodger, I was in Perth back in March of 2011 - beautiful place.
Anyway, I feel I should comment on the extended tanks. I've seen a lot of them,
and I got the two dollar tour of John's right after he flew it to Sun 'n fun.
I would NOT do it. It was told to me that you need to be "very careful" taking
off with a full load of fuel, and that you definitely had to have them empty before
landing.
As far as the "tip tank" approach, I only know of people putting 7 or 8 gallons
per side. Frankly, I wouldn't even do that. I have seen one that had the tip
tank very close to the existing tank, to minimize the moment arm.
I'm very happy with a 60 gallon limit - so is my bladder. Just stop for gas.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415978#415978
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Windshield fairing |
Bob,
I'm sure you'll do what you want. Here is a photo I took during fit.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415979#415979
Attachments:
http://forums.matronics.com//files/windshieldfit_170.jpg
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Extended Tankage |
Thanks John .. valuable comments!=0A=0ARodger=0A=0A=0A=0AOn Saturday, 21 De
cember 2013, 23:14, johngoodman <johngoodman@earthlink.net> wrote:=0A =0A-
=0A=0ARodger, I was in Perth back in March of 2011 - beautiful place.=0AAny
way, I feel I should comment on the extended tanks. I've seen a lot of them
, and I got the two dollar tour of John's right after he flew it to Sun 'n
fun.=0AI would NOT do it. It was told to me that you need to be "very caref
ul" taking off with a full load of fuel, and that you definitely had to hav
e them empty before landing.=0AAs far as the "tip tank" approach, I only kn
ow of people putting 7 or 8 gallons per side. Frankly, I wouldn't even do t
hat. I have seen one that had the tip tank very close to the existing tank,
to minimize the moment arm.=0A=0AI'm very happy with a 60 gallon limit - s
o is my bladder. Just stop for gas.=0A=0AJohn=0A=0A--------=0A#40572 Phase
One complete and flying.=0A=0A=0A=0A=0ARead this topic online here:=0A=0Aht
tp://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415978#415978=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A=0A
========
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: oil filter and B&C alternator |
Another data point for general information: I have the B&C SD20
alternator and used the straight oil filter adapter that comes with
standard Vans powerplant - the D4A5.
The difficulty of removing and installing filters is less than that I
had on my Maule so no problem there. It's easy to get a box wrench on
the end of the filter. I use the same length of angle vinyl flashing,
about 2" a side and 4' long, as a gutter to catch the drip as the filter
comes off. A one step foot stool is required to get over the top access
for the change. The angle filter mount looked attractive but I didn't
do it.
Installing the SD20 in the first place is a bear and I hopefully won't
have to replace it soon. I'm not sure that the difficulty changes with
the various oil filter adapters, spacers and such. There's one nut and
stud that is impossible to reach with any standard wrench. For about
$30, Snap-on sells a thin crows foot wrench specifically for this
particular stud & nut. Hmmmm.... a single use $30 tool, let me see if I
can borrow one.
Experienced mechanics seem familiar with the difficulties around this
vacuum pad stud and nut so I asked around with no joy. My local guy
says he "turns the nut by using the end of a straight screwdriver".
Torque values? A well calibrated mallet and screw driver seems to be
the key for him. So I bought the wrench and with difficulty installed
the SD20 and torqued it properly. No big deal, never looked back.
All is well 350 hours later. Only problem discovered 300 hours in was
the lead to the SD20 fatigued and broke off when I gave it a tug during
my second conditional. Make sure you allow for an extra large relief
loop in the lead because the geometry of the engine mount and SD20
location results in a surprising amount of movement during operation.
Bill "found out the '10 can easily transport 2 Labs and a carrier with 2
more dogs" Watson
On 12/20/2013 7:42 PM, Chris Hukill wrote:
> Has anyone used a B&C stby alternator on the vacuum pad with an angle
> oil filter? I need to know if there is an engine mount clearance
> issue, and if so, what thickness spacers are needed to make it all fit.
> Chris Hukill
> *
> *
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Extended Tankage |
After recent trip to Hawaii, I was fantasizing about flying the RV10 down to the
islands. I figure that to cover the approximately 2050 miles from the SFO area
to Hilo (the closest airport to the mainland) that you would need 14 hours
of fuel to be safe or about 150 gallons (900#) of fuel at economy cruise. with
my lightweight RV10 (1620#) and two 180# pilots that would put me 200# over
gross with no food, water or emergency equipment and a 20# aux. fuel tank. One
pilot might be can do, but still over gross.
I like the idea of an internal fuel tank. The obvious issues are CG, safety, sloshing
in turbulence, and maneuvering speed. Except for safety, all of these issues
are easily managed. I like the idea of a removable internal L/R tank. You
are not flying these flights all of the time and the RV10 has reasonably long
legs with the regular 60 gallon tanks. Baffles can prevent sloshing in turbulence.
With the internal tank, venting can be done outside, and the pilot can
control the plumbing/flow in flight. Plus it can be easily installed and removed
from a secure position the back seat.
Just my thoughts, but I invite your comments!
--------
See you OSH '13
Q/B - flying 3 yrs.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415990#415990
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Extended Tankage |
If you're really serious about extra fuel, check this out...
http://www.turtlepac.com/en/photo-gallery/aircraft-ferry-tanks.html
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415998#415998
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Extended Tankage |
Bill Harrelson is a neighbor of mine here at Dogwood Airpark. Five of the
seven ferry tanks he used for his Guam to Jacksonville non-stop hop where
built from carbon fiber prepreg board and carbon fiber for the joints to
exactly match the available space inside the cabin. The two big collapsible
fuel blatters were on top of two of the carbon fiber tanks. The plumbing
and fuel manifolds were a work of art.
If I ever wanted to do extended fuel in the RV-10 (which I don't) I would go
the same way - tailored carbine fiber tanks fitted into the real seat foot
wells, simple transfer pump and plumbing with a common vent overboard. I'd
not consider the collapsible fuel blatter.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of johngoodman
Sent: Saturday, December 21, 2013 1:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extended Tankage
--> <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
If you're really serious about extra fuel, check this out...
http://www.turtlepac.com/en/photo-gallery/aircraft-ferry-tanks.html
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete and flying.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415998#415998
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Extended Tankage |
We see this Australian guy at Oshkosh every year selling these
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Extended Tankage
> From: johngoodman@earthlink.net
> Date: Sat=2C 21 Dec 2013 10:32:52 -0800
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
>
> If you're really serious about extra fuel=2C check this out...
>
> http://www.turtlepac.com/en/photo-gallery/aircraft-ferry-tanks.html
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete and flying.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=415998#415998
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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