Today's Message Index:
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1. 04:20 AM - Re: Re: Elevator Limits (Linn Walters)
2. 04:30 AM - Re: Cabin doors fitting problem (Tcwtech)
3. 09:37 AM - Re: Cabin doors fitting problem (Dave Saylor)
4. 01:04 PM - Re: Cabin doors fitting problem (hotwheels)
5. 10:22 PM - Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions. (Berck E. Nash)
6. 11:54 PM - Archer wingtip antenna (woxofswa)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: Elevator Limits |
On 2/27/2014 9:21 AM, johngoodman wrote:
>
> The more ballast in the baggage compartment, the better mine flies; but there
is a limit, of course. I have started using half flaps for landing and it is
much better than full flaps - when it comes to trim & stick issues. More importantly,
if you have to do a go-around, you're not frantically trimming like you
would with full flaps.
> But back to the original issue. I would not "bend" the stick. Make the panel
clear the stick, first. Then do what you have to do with the elevator stop to
make it so. You will never use the forward limit, but that panicky near-miss could
find you pushing the stick under the panel; you don't want it caught.
Which causes me to wonder why we don't shift the full elevator movement
towards the up or aft limit instead of modifying everything ....
That seems so simple to me.
Linn
>
> John
>
> --------
> #40572 Phase One complete in 2011
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419433#419433
>
>
> -----
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> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin doors fitting problem |
My scribe lines were way off too. Resulting in wide and varied gaps. After fitting
up the doors I went back and used layers if duct tape to mould the shape
of the missing door sill area, then filled in the missing area not only with
epoxy with adhesive filler but added strands of fiberglass cloth. I took some
cloth and pulled it apart to harvest long strands. I used the long strands
to line the mould area. After the build up of the missing door sill, reshape
and trim as needed.
Bob Newman
N541RV
Sent from my iPhone
On Feb 28, 2014, at 2:01 AM, "bob88" <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I'm at stage I of cabin door fitting and have a larger than specified gap varying
from 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch (widest along the bottom edge). When cutting the
cabin cover I followed the scribe lines as best I could but apparently took
off a bit too much. Is this a lethal problem? Should I try to build up the cabin
cover door jamb with epoxy and glass? Will wider insulation eventually solve
the problem? I'd definitely appreciate some thoughts on this from someone who
may have had a similar problem.
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419479#419479
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin doors fitting problem |
3/8" along the bottom is fine, maybe even a little on the narrow side. A
lot of them get trimmed so the bottom of the opening just forms an L,
without any part of the lower edge returning back towards the door. That
leaves a little more than 3/8.
The rest of the opening formed by the cabin frame should ideally be trimmed
to allow for whatever door seal you choose. In some cases it's as small as
1/16. But you can use 3/8" foam seal that will very nicely close up a 1/4"
gap.
A couple points to consider:
The channel formed by the frame serves as a water gutter, so if too much is
removed you'll lose that function. Foam seal on the door will work the
same way but only when the door is closed.
I *think* the door frame serves a significant structural function. I don't
have any engineering data to back that up but Vans has warned me not to
drill holes for sun visors (did it anyway) or to remove too much
material...but I can't tell you how much is too much. If you have enough
material to form a water channel then you should be fine.
Dave Saylor
831-750-0284 CL
=8BN921AC 1300+ hrs=8B
On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 11:01 PM, bob88 <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> I'm at stage I of cabin door fitting and have a larger than specified gap
> varying from 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch (widest along the bottom edge). When
> cutting the cabin cover I followed the scribe lines as best I could but
> apparently took off a bit too much. Is this a lethal problem? Should I tr
y
> to build up the cabin cover door jamb with epoxy and glass? Will wider
> insulation eventually solve the problem? I'd definitely appreciate some
> thoughts on this from someone who may have had a similar problem.
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419479#419479
>
>
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Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Cabin doors fitting problem |
My scribe lines were really far off. By the time I realized this, it would have
been too much trouble to undo. So... I ended up using McMaster-Carr door seals
and it worked out well.
Regards,
Jay
N433RV - flying
Do not archive
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419521#419521
Message 5
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| Subject: | Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions. |
Hi there. I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that
searching has not yielded answers to. I know everyone loves priming
questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first.
I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but
I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are. I've read in
some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed. Is that all mating
surfaces? Everywhere a skin touches a rib? Or is this just mating
surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad?
Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad? For instance, the
VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal. Is it
alclad? Does it need to be primed? Or should it be primed anyway
because it sits on top of the VS rear spar?
What about the edges of everything? Clearly there's no alclad there...
should I be worried about that? I really don't want to prime where it's
not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado
where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required
is tough.
Thanks,
Berck
Message 6
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| Subject: | Archer wingtip antenna |
The Archer instructions say to mount the Ant as far forward as possible, but I
am concerned about interference from the heat shield foil around the landing
light area.
Any suggestions appreciated.
TIA
--------
Myron Nelson
Mesa, AZ
Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419544#419544
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