---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 02/28/14: 6 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 04:20 AM - Re: Re: Elevator Limits (Linn Walters) 2. 04:30 AM - Re: Cabin doors fitting problem (Tcwtech) 3. 09:37 AM - Re: Cabin doors fitting problem (Dave Saylor) 4. 01:04 PM - Re: Cabin doors fitting problem (hotwheels) 5. 10:22 PM - Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions. (Berck E. Nash) 6. 11:54 PM - Archer wingtip antenna (woxofswa) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 04:20:57 AM PST US From: Linn Walters Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Elevator Limits On 2/27/2014 9:21 AM, johngoodman wrote: > > The more ballast in the baggage compartment, the better mine flies; but there is a limit, of course. I have started using half flaps for landing and it is much better than full flaps - when it comes to trim & stick issues. More importantly, if you have to do a go-around, you're not frantically trimming like you would with full flaps. > But back to the original issue. I would not "bend" the stick. Make the panel clear the stick, first. Then do what you have to do with the elevator stop to make it so. You will never use the forward limit, but that panicky near-miss could find you pushing the stick under the panel; you don't want it caught. Which causes me to wonder why we don't shift the full elevator movement towards the up or aft limit instead of modifying everything .... That seems so simple to me. Linn > > John > > -------- > #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419433#419433 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 04:30:40 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin doors fitting problem From: Tcwtech My scribe lines were way off too. Resulting in wide and varied gaps. After fitting up the doors I went back and used layers if duct tape to mould the shape of the missing door sill area, then filled in the missing area not only with epoxy with adhesive filler but added strands of fiberglass cloth. I took some cloth and pulled it apart to harvest long strands. I used the long strands to line the mould area. After the build up of the missing door sill, reshape and trim as needed. Bob Newman N541RV Sent from my iPhone On Feb 28, 2014, at 2:01 AM, "bob88" wrote: > > I'm at stage I of cabin door fitting and have a larger than specified gap varying from 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch (widest along the bottom edge). When cutting the cabin cover I followed the scribe lines as best I could but apparently took off a bit too much. Is this a lethal problem? Should I try to build up the cabin cover door jamb with epoxy and glass? Will wider insulation eventually solve the problem? I'd definitely appreciate some thoughts on this from someone who may have had a similar problem. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419479#419479 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 09:37:55 AM PST US From: Dave Saylor Subject: Re: RV10-List: Cabin doors fitting problem 3/8" along the bottom is fine, maybe even a little on the narrow side. A lot of them get trimmed so the bottom of the opening just forms an L, without any part of the lower edge returning back towards the door. That leaves a little more than 3/8. The rest of the opening formed by the cabin frame should ideally be trimmed to allow for whatever door seal you choose. In some cases it's as small as 1/16. But you can use 3/8" foam seal that will very nicely close up a 1/4" gap. A couple points to consider: The channel formed by the frame serves as a water gutter, so if too much is removed you'll lose that function. Foam seal on the door will work the same way but only when the door is closed. I *think* the door frame serves a significant structural function. I don't have any engineering data to back that up but Vans has warned me not to drill holes for sun visors (did it anyway) or to remove too much material...but I can't tell you how much is too much. If you have enough material to form a water channel then you should be fine. Dave Saylor 831-750-0284 CL =8BN921AC 1300+ hrs=8B On Thu, Feb 27, 2014 at 11:01 PM, bob88 wrote: > > I'm at stage I of cabin door fitting and have a larger than specified gap > varying from 1/4 inch to 3/8 inch (widest along the bottom edge). When > cutting the cabin cover I followed the scribe lines as best I could but > apparently took off a bit too much. Is this a lethal problem? Should I tr y > to build up the cabin cover door jamb with epoxy and glass? Will wider > insulation eventually solve the problem? I'd definitely appreciate some > thoughts on this from someone who may have had a similar problem. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419479#419479 > > =========== =========== =========== =========== > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 01:04:36 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Cabin doors fitting problem From: "hotwheels" My scribe lines were really far off. By the time I realized this, it would have been too much trouble to undo. So... I ended up using McMaster-Carr door seals and it worked out well. Regards, Jay N433RV - flying Do not archive Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=419521#419521 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 10:22:33 PM PST US From: "Berck E. Nash" Subject: RV10-List: Greetings ... and minimalist priming questions. Hi there. I've just started on an RV-10 and have a few questions that searching has not yielded answers to. I know everyone loves priming questions, but I really have tried to search for the answers first. I've decided to only prime things that absolutely must be primed, but I'm having trouble figuring out which things those are. I've read in some places that "mating surfaces" must be primed. Is that all mating surfaces? Everywhere a skin touches a rib? Or is this just mating surfaces where one of the parts is not alclad? Is everything that isn't alclad obviously not alclad? For instance, the VS-1014 spar caps look different from most of the sheet metal. Is it alclad? Does it need to be primed? Or should it be primed anyway because it sits on top of the VS rear spar? What about the edges of everything? Clearly there's no alclad there... should I be worried about that? I really don't want to prime where it's not necessary (time, weight, and the aircraft is going to be in Colorado where nothing ever corrodes), but finding guidance for what's required is tough. Thanks, Berck ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 11:54:44 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Archer wingtip antenna From: "woxofswa" The Archer instructions say to mount the Ant as far forward as possible, but I am concerned about interference from the heat shield foil around the landing light area. Any suggestions appreciated. TIA -------- Myron Nelson Mesa, AZ Emp completed, QB wings completed, legacy build fuse on gear. FWF complete. 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