Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:37 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Mathia)
2. 05:57 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Walker)
3. 06:05 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Carl Froehlich)
4. 06:16 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (rv10flyer)
5. 07:32 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Geoff Combs)
6. 08:19 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ben Westfall)
7. 08:26 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Dave Saylor)
8. 08:31 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Dave Saylor)
9. 08:47 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Walker)
10. 08:47 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Dave Saylor)
11. 08:57 AM - Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Matt Dralle)
12. 10:12 AM - Re: RV8-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Shaun Dawson)
13. 10:29 AM - Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Mike Whisky)
14. 10:34 AM - Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Jim Berry)
15. 10:47 AM - Re: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Pascal)
16. 12:17 PM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Dan Masys)
17. 12:32 PM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Mathia)
18. 12:42 PM - Re: FS: 6 Cyl Slick Mag (Barry)
19. 01:05 PM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (rv10flyer)
20. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Tim Olson)
21. 01:30 PM - Re: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Justin Jones)
22. 03:53 PM - RV10s near Daytona (rvdave)
23. 04:06 PM - Re: RV10s near Daytona (Jesse Saint)
24. 06:53 PM - Re: RV10s near Daytona (rvdave)
25. 07:58 PM - Re: Re: RV10s near Daytona (Jesse Saint)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
I have a few questions.
What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows?
Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer fiberglass
door panel prior to gluing them together?
Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels
together to form the doors?
RCM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation
On 3/20/2014 8:11 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation?
ACS has spray lat that puts a latex coating on the plexiglass .... the
thicker the coat the easier it is to peel off.
> Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike
weld-on.
I plan on using the rubber sealant that they use to glue car windshields in
and cover the joint with real lightweight fiberglass cloth.
There's also a product called sikaflex.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php/20041122082807627
I think flox will be too brittle and will crack loose due to the expansion
coefficient differences between the acrylic and the FG cabin top.
Linn
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
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| Subject: | Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
I'm doing this very work right now.
I use an angle die grinder to cut the door panels. Use the disks that
Vans supplies in the kit. The cutting is easy, just wear a mask and
long-sleeves - the glass dust will get everywhere.
As for the door adhesive, I followed the instructions and used West
Systems epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. Just bead all of the outer
edges of door and window opening, cleco the inside window frame
together, and tape/clamp/weight the door itself into position on the
cabin top. Make sure to mask off the cabin top itself, you don't want
the door curing to the frame - I used clear packing tape.
For the windows ... I've not yet started on that aspect.
--Ron
On Fri, 2014-03-21 at 08:36 -0400, Ron Mathia wrote:
>
> I have a few questions.
> What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows?
> Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer fiberglass
> door panel prior to gluing them together?
> Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels
> together to form the doors?
> RCM
>
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| Subject: | Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
I followed the lead of the Lancair builders and used what they use for glass
install, Hysol:
http://shop.lancair.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=9360-QT&CatId={992B7B06-E01B-
4918-BB0C-79343CDB7869}
While this is a nice product, I suspect you can find other options along
this line.
I mixed just a little flox with this to thicken it. After letting set for a
several days, I did add a couple of bids of glass over the joint as I've
seen several RV-10s with the "window frame" crack. This added fiberglass
extends over the mating surface on the outside. I also did not like the
Van's approach of not having glass on the outside as a structural element.
If you just use micro or flox to fill in the crack between the window edge
and cabin top, you have a high likelihood of paint cracking.
If you are not going to add the overlay of glass and just rely on the
adhesive then you might want to stick to Van's instructions.
No matter which way you go make sure you roughen up the mating surfaces with
something like 40 grit paper.
If I had to do it again I'd do the same approach.
Carl
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:03 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation
On 3/20/2014 8:11 PM, bob88 wrote:
>
> Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation?
ACS has spray lat that puts a latex coating on the plexiglass .... the
thicker the coat the easier it is to peel off.
> Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike
weld-on.
I plan on using the rubber sealant that they use to glue car windshields in
and cover the joint with real lightweight fiberglass cloth.
There's also a product called sikaflex.
http://www.rv8.ch/article.php/20041122082807627
I think flox will be too brittle and will crack loose due to the expansion
coefficient differences between the acrylic and the FG cabin top.
Linn
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700
>
>
> -----
> No virus found in this message.
> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
I used Weld-On 45, the thicker version of 10. The windows are very secure with
minor paint cracking on the outside around the perimeter.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420717#420717
Message 5
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| Subject: | Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
The lord adhesive is very strong and easy to use. It is great for windows,
attaching the canopy top and gluing in an
Overhead if you have one. You could also use it to glue door skins together.
It will not craze the windows
Geoff Combs
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88
Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 8:12 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation
Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation? Also
what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike weld-on.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700
Message 6
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| Subject: | Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
I've used the diamond wheel bit for dremel tools to cut most of the thinner
fiberglass parts. It's makes short work of the things if the glass is not
too thick. I did not know about it when I did the doors but just about
everything after that I used the dremel. I find it easier to steer than
using a die grinder plus my air compressor does not keep up with die grinder
usage either. I also used this to trim the door windows as well. I then
followed up w/belt sander to smooth the edges and clean up rounded corners
and such.
http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=545
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Mathia
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 5:36 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation
I have a few questions.
What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows?
Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer fiberglass
door panel prior to gluing them together?
Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels
together to form the doors?
RCM
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
I like the diamond Dremel too. There's a mandrel I think called EZ Lock
that lets it tip and sort of swivel somewhat. They're a little expensive
but they work really well.
On Friday, March 21, 2014, Ben Westfall <rv10@sinkrate.com> wrote:
> >
>
> I've used the diamond wheel bit for dremel tools to cut
>
--
--Dave Saylor
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
Ron, did you use micro balloons, or Cabosil? They're not the same thing,
and easy to get confused since they look similar. Cabosil is more
appropriate when making a structural bond.
On Friday, March 21, 2014, Ron Walker <n520tx@gmail.com> wrote:
> >
>
>
> epoxy thickened with micro-balloons.
>
--
--Dave Saylor
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
Thanks for the correction Dave - I need to be more precise in my
wording. You'd think that I'd know that after taking your workshop ;o)
--Ron
On Fri, 2014-03-21 at 08:31 -0700, Dave Saylor wrote:
> Ron, did you use micro balloons, or Cabosil? They're not the same
> thing, and easy to get confused since they look similar. Cabosil is
> more appropriate when making a structural bond.
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
I've seen Hysol go both ways on windows. Please keep in mind that
the Lancair window install is much different, utilizing a heavy secondary
layup to secure the plexiglass in a strong groove, not just a joggle. Like
instead of the cosmetic layup to prevent cracks, they use several layers of
heavier cloth.
I used Hysol around the joggle of my windscreen and it's been fine. But
knowing what I know now, I wouldn't do it that way again.
On Friday, March 21, 2014, Carl Froehlich <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
wrote:
> carl.froehlich@verizon.net <javascript:;>>
>
> I followed the lead of the Lancair builders and used what they use for
> glass
> install, Hysol:
>
> http://shop.lancair.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=9360-QT&CatId={992B7B06-E01B-
> 4918-BB0C-79343CDB7869}
> While this is a nice product, I suspect you can find other options along
> this line.
>
> I mixed just a little flox with this to thicken it. After letting set for
> a
> several days, I did add a couple of bids of glass over the joint as I've
> seen several RV-10s with the "window frame" crack. This added fiberglass
> extends over the mating surface on the outside. I also did not like the
> Van's approach of not having glass on the outside as a structural element.
> If you just use micro or flox to fill in the crack between the window edge
> and cabin top, you have a high likelihood of paint cracking.
>
> If you are not going to add the overlay of glass and just rely on the
> adhesive then you might want to stick to Van's instructions.
>
> No matter which way you go make sure you roughen up the mating surfaces
> with
> something like 40 grit paper.
>
> If I had to do it again I'd do the same approach.
>
> Carl
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <javascript:;>
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com <javascript:;>] On Behalf Of
> Linn Walters
> Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:03 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com <javascript:;>
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation
>
> >
>
> On 3/20/2014 8:11 PM, bob88 wrote:
> >
> >
> > Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation?
> ACS has spray lat that puts a latex coating on the plexiglass .... the
> thicker the coat the easier it is to peel off.
>
> > Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike
> weld-on.
> I plan on using the rubber sealant that they use to glue car windshields in
> and cover the joint with real lightweight fiberglass cloth.
> There's also a product called sikaflex.
> http://www.rv8.ch/article.php/20041122082807627
> I think flox will be too brittle and will crack loose due to the expansion
> coefficient differences between the acrylic and the FG cabin top.
> Linn
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > -----
> > No virus found in this message.
> > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com
> >
> >
>
>
--
--Dave Saylor
Message 11
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI |
At 05:24 PM 3/20/2014 Thursday, you wrote:
>--> Avionics-List message posted by: Ralph Finch <ralphmariafinch@gmail.com>
>
>Why did I want the -200? For the same reasons Matt cited. I just
>don't see the benefit of merely replacing some circuit breakers that
>is essentially the role of the VP-X.
I think the biggest downfall of the VP-200 was that potential customers didn't
really understand just how *awesome* the automation functionality is and how it
really works. Many times at fly-ins or other events where I've had an opportunity
to show off the VP-200, fellow homebuilders are in awe of the automation
after I've take a few minutes to explain just how it works and how it significantly
reduces my workload during the various phases of flight. The fact that
the VP-200 knows, based on GPS/RPM/AHRS data exactly what mode of flight that
I'm in - Start/Taxi/Runup/Takeoff/Cruse/Landing - and switches on or off the
electrical circuits that I've pre-programmed for each mode of flight is simply
genius. Not only is the concept certainly revolutionary in the market, but
the VP-200's implementation of it just works and works great. The only external
input that is missing to the logic, IMHO, is the determination of Day vs. Night.
I have to manually turn the position lights on. It seems like either the
input from the exiting dimmer electric eye or from some sort of real time clock
could make this happen.
Ralph's idea of adding automation to the VP-x though the use of an external embedded
processor and display is a good one. Maybe when I get the RV-8 back in
the air, I'll start working on something along those lines... :-)
Best regards,
-
Matt Dralle
RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode
Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: RV8-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, |
WI
Based on GPS information (position and time), you can know whether you are
in Day or night, no problem, without having to resort to external devices
such as a light sensor (which can break). I would think that sort of thing
would be quite easy.
Shaun
On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 8:56 AM, Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com> wrote:
> --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle <dralle@matronics.com>
>
> At 05:24 PM 3/20/2014 Thursday, you wrote:
> >--> Avionics-List message posted by: Ralph Finch <
> ralphmariafinch@gmail.com>
> >
> >Why did I want the -200? For the same reasons Matt cited. I just
> >don't see the benefit of merely replacing some circuit breakers that
> >is essentially the role of the VP-X.
>
>
> I think the biggest downfall of the VP-200 was that potential customers
> didn't really understand just how *awesome* the automation functionality is
> and how it really works. Many times at fly-ins or other events where I've
> had an opportunity to show off the VP-200, fellow homebuilders are in awe
> of the automation after I've take a few minutes to explain just how it
> works and how it significantly reduces my workload during the various
> phases of flight. The fact that the VP-200 knows, based on GPS/RPM/AHRS
> data exactly what mode of flight that I'm in -
> Start/Taxi/Runup/Takeoff/Cruse/Landing - and switches on or off the
> electrical circuits that I've pre-programmed for each mode of flight is
> simply genius. Not only is the concept certainly revolutionary in the
> market, but the VP-200's implementation of it just works and works great.
> The only external input that is missing to the logic, IMHO, is the
> determination of Day vs. Night. I have to manually turn the position
> lights o!
> n. It seems like either the input from the exiting dimmer electric eye
> or from some sort of real time clock could make this happen.
>
> Ralph's idea of adding automation to the VP-x though the use of an
> external embedded processor and display is a good one. Maybe when I get
> the RV-8 back in the air, I'll start working on something along those
> lines... :-)
>
> Best regards,
>
>
> -
> Matt Dralle
>
> RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen"
> http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log
> http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log
> http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel
> Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap...
>
> RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer"
> http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log
> Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer
> Mode
>
> Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream!
> Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore
> Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too!
> For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com
>
>
Message 13
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI |
Matt, I am with you the VP-200 is awesome I touch only engine and flight controls
trim and flaps. The rest is done by the VP-200
Great Product I still don't understand why they dropped it.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420762#420762
Message 14
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI |
Matt,
On this tread I received 3 copies of your first message and 4 copies of the second
message, each with the same time stamp. Is this an issue on your end or mine?
Thanks
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420763#420763
Message 15
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| Subject: | Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI |
There was so many more ways to improve the 200 with "future software"
releases. By ending the production and moving on to "more simple" they
really took their flagship out of the company. My hope is that they bring
out a newer version with everything it is capable of, so others do not miss
out on a asset in the panel.
-----Original Message-----
From: Mike Whisky
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 10:28 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI
Matt, I am with you the VP-200 is awesome I touch only engine and flight
controls trim and flaps. The rest is done by the VP-200
Great Product I still don't understand why they dropped it.
Mike
--------
RV-10 builder (flying, test phase)
#511
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420762#420762
Message 16
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
"Everyone seems to dislike weld-on" is something of a misapprehension, no doubt
caused by the amount of chatter on the newsgroups. Van's didn't choose Weld-on
lightly or without the engineering to support its preferred use.
This thread was alive back in 2007 when I was building my -10, and I was persuaded,
particularly by builders outside of the US who could not get Weld-on and
referred to the practices of fast glass builders in using a structural adhesive
that would accommodate differential thermal effects of the plexi and the composite
canopy. So I went with one of those products (no longer offered but essentially
like ES6279 Aeropoxy).
Fast forward about 450 flight hours, and I am at 15,000 feet over Atlanta's Class B airspace, without outside air temperature -15C and inside the cabin toasty warm at 75 degrees, with the heaters going wide open. Happy as proverbial clam when BAM! a loud noise and I look back to see that the rear window has come unglued and departed the aircraft: http://faculty.washington.edu/dmasys/RV10/RV10_lostwind_rearview.jpg
Suffice it to say I glued in the replacement using Van's procedure and Weld-on,
which is terrific stuff, not as much a problem as the list would portray, and
known to be reliable. So from my perspective you put yourself at unnecessary
risk of an unhappy event if you get creative in deviating from the factory guidance
on this issue.
Sadder but wiser...
-Dan Masys
N104LD 670 hrs
> On Thu, Mar 20, 2014 at 5:11 PM, bob88 <marty.crooks@comcast.net> wrote:
>
>>
>> Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation?
>> Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike weld-on.
>>
>>
>> Read this topic online here:
>>
>> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700
>>
Message 17
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| Subject: | Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation |
Thanks, Ron, for the suggestions, as soon as it warms up enough to work in the
hanger I will start on the doors.
Regards, RCM
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Walker
Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 8:57 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation
I'm doing this very work right now.
I use an angle die grinder to cut the door panels. Use the disks that Vans supplies
in the kit. The cutting is easy, just wear a mask and long-sleeves - the
glass dust will get everywhere.
As for the door adhesive, I followed the instructions and used West Systems epoxy
thickened with micro-balloons. Just bead all of the outer edges of door and
window opening, cleco the inside window frame together, and tape/clamp/weight
the door itself into position on the cabin top. Make sure to mask off the cabin
top itself, you don't want the door curing to the frame - I used clear packing
tape.
For the windows ... I've not yet started on that aspect.
--Ron
On Fri, 2014-03-21 at 08:36 -0400, Ron Mathia wrote:
>
> I have a few questions.
> What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows?
> Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer
> fiberglass door panel prior to gluing them together?
> Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels
> together to form the doors?
> RCM
>
Message 18
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| Subject: | Re: FS: 6 Cyl Slick Mag |
The Mag has been sold. Thanks Barry
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420776#420776
Message 19
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
I think Weld-On 10 is too thin, making it messy to work with and it does not fill
gaps properly. I called the mfr and they recommeded Weld-On 45. A special cartridge
gun dispenser and mixing nozzles are needed which is probably why Van's
recommends Weld-On 10. A friend up in PA used it and I will pick it up in the
next few weeks if someone needs it. I have been to 16.5 at -2C with heat and
vents open just to see if I could blow one out.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420778#420778
Message 20
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
Only -2C?????
Man, that ain't nothing.
You should come up here and see how it goes.
My hangar was -35C this winter, and I've been flying
many times at way lower than -2C.
-2C is the temperature at which Wisconsin folk start
wearing shorts when they shovel the driveway.
Tim
do not archive
On 3/21/2014 3:04 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
> <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>
>
> I think Weld-On 10 is too thin, making it messy to work with and it
> does not fill gaps properly. I called the mfr and they recommeded
> Weld-On 45. A special cartridge gun dispenser and mixing nozzles are
> needed which is probably why Van's recommends Weld-On 10. A friend up
> in PA used it and I will pick it up in the next few weeks if someone
> needs it. I have been to 16.5 at -2C with heat and vents open just to
> see if I could blow one out.
>
> -------- Wayne G.
>
>
Message 21
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| Subject: | Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation |
Try Alaska!
On Mar 21, 2014, at 14:15, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote:
>
> Only -2C?????
>
> Man, that ain't nothing.
> You should come up here and see how it goes.
> My hangar was -35C this winter, and I've been flying
> many times at way lower than -2C.
>
> -2C is the temperature at which Wisconsin folk start
> wearing shorts when they shovel the driveway.
>
> Tim
> do not archive
>
>
>
>
> On 3/21/2014 3:04 PM, rv10flyer wrote:
>> <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>
>>
>> I think Weld-On 10 is too thin, making it messy to work with and it
>> does not fill gaps properly. I called the mfr and they recommeded
>> Weld-On 45. A special cartridge gun dispenser and mixing nozzles are
>> needed which is probably why Van's recommends Weld-On 10. A friend up
>> in PA used it and I will pick it up in the next few weeks if someone
>> needs it. I have been to 16.5 at -2C with heat and vents open just to
>> see if I could blow one out.
>>
>> -------- Wayne G.
>
>
>
>
Message 22
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| Subject: | RV10s near Daytona |
Wondering if there are any build projects in process within a reasonable radius
of Daytona? Particularly Ormomd or Flagler area is where I'll be staying next
week & probably a trip over to S & F will be in order.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420791#420791
Message 23
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| Subject: | Re: RV10s near Daytona |
N256H was at Spruce Creek today, but based near Ocala. A build project will be
at X35 for finish up starting Monday. Feel free to stop by.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 21, 2014, at 6:52 PM, "rvdave" <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Wondering if there are any build projects in process within a reasonable radius
of Daytona? Particularly Ormomd or Flagler area is where I'll be staying next
week & probably a trip over to S & F will be in order.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420791#420791
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 24
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| Subject: | Re: RV10s near Daytona |
Ok , I will be down end of next week thru first week of April, sounds good--my
son and I may look you up, thanks for the info.
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420809#420809
Message 25
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| Subject: | Re: RV10s near Daytona |
I'll be here next week, but I'll be in sun-n-fun the whole following week. Please
call ahead a day.
Jesse
Sent from my iPad
> On Mar 21, 2014, at 9:52 PM, "rvdave" <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Ok , I will be down end of next week thru first week of April, sounds good--my
son and I may look you up, thanks for the info.
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420809#420809
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
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