---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Fri 03/21/14: 25 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:37 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Mathia) 2. 05:57 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Walker) 3. 06:05 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Carl Froehlich) 4. 06:16 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (rv10flyer) 5. 07:32 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Geoff Combs) 6. 08:19 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ben Westfall) 7. 08:26 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Dave Saylor) 8. 08:31 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Dave Saylor) 9. 08:47 AM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Walker) 10. 08:47 AM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Dave Saylor) 11. 08:57 AM - Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Matt Dralle) 12. 10:12 AM - Re: RV8-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Shaun Dawson) 13. 10:29 AM - Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Mike Whisky) 14. 10:34 AM - Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Jim Berry) 15. 10:47 AM - Re: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI (Pascal) 16. 12:17 PM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Dan Masys) 17. 12:32 PM - Re: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation (Ron Mathia) 18. 12:42 PM - Re: FS: 6 Cyl Slick Mag (Barry) 19. 01:05 PM - Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (rv10flyer) 20. 01:15 PM - Re: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Tim Olson) 21. 01:30 PM - Re: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation (Justin Jones) 22. 03:53 PM - RV10s near Daytona (rvdave) 23. 04:06 PM - Re: RV10s near Daytona (Jesse Saint) 24. 06:53 PM - Re: RV10s near Daytona (rvdave) 25. 07:58 PM - Re: Re: RV10s near Daytona (Jesse Saint) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:37:08 AM PST US From: "Ron Mathia" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation I have a few questions. What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows? Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer fiberglass door panel prior to gluing them together? Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels together to form the doors? RCM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation On 3/20/2014 8:11 PM, bob88 wrote: > > Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation? ACS has spray lat that puts a latex coating on the plexiglass .... the thicker the coat the easier it is to peel off. > Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike weld-on. I plan on using the rubber sealant that they use to glue car windshields in and cover the joint with real lightweight fiberglass cloth. There's also a product called sikaflex. http://www.rv8.ch/article.php/20041122082807627 I think flox will be too brittle and will crack loose due to the expansion coefficient differences between the acrylic and the FG cabin top. Linn > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:57:58 AM PST US Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation From: Ron Walker I'm doing this very work right now. I use an angle die grinder to cut the door panels. Use the disks that Vans supplies in the kit. The cutting is easy, just wear a mask and long-sleeves - the glass dust will get everywhere. As for the door adhesive, I followed the instructions and used West Systems epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. Just bead all of the outer edges of door and window opening, cleco the inside window frame together, and tape/clamp/weight the door itself into position on the cabin top. Make sure to mask off the cabin top itself, you don't want the door curing to the frame - I used clear packing tape. For the windows ... I've not yet started on that aspect. --Ron On Fri, 2014-03-21 at 08:36 -0400, Ron Mathia wrote: > > I have a few questions. > What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows? > Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer fiberglass > door panel prior to gluing them together? > Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels > together to form the doors? > RCM > ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 06:05:19 AM PST US From: "Carl Froehlich" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation I followed the lead of the Lancair builders and used what they use for glass install, Hysol: http://shop.lancair.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=9360-QT&CatId={992B7B06-E01B- 4918-BB0C-79343CDB7869} While this is a nice product, I suspect you can find other options along this line. I mixed just a little flox with this to thicken it. After letting set for a several days, I did add a couple of bids of glass over the joint as I've seen several RV-10s with the "window frame" crack. This added fiberglass extends over the mating surface on the outside. I also did not like the Van's approach of not having glass on the outside as a structural element. If you just use micro or flox to fill in the crack between the window edge and cabin top, you have a high likelihood of paint cracking. If you are not going to add the overlay of glass and just rely on the adhesive then you might want to stick to Van's instructions. No matter which way you go make sure you roughen up the mating surfaces with something like 40 grit paper. If I had to do it again I'd do the same approach. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:03 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation On 3/20/2014 8:11 PM, bob88 wrote: > > Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation? ACS has spray lat that puts a latex coating on the plexiglass .... the thicker the coat the easier it is to peel off. > Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike weld-on. I plan on using the rubber sealant that they use to glue car windshields in and cover the joint with real lightweight fiberglass cloth. There's also a product called sikaflex. http://www.rv8.ch/article.php/20041122082807627 I think flox will be too brittle and will crack loose due to the expansion coefficient differences between the acrylic and the FG cabin top. Linn > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 06:16:51 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation From: "rv10flyer" I used Weld-On 45, the thicker version of 10. The windows are very secure with minor paint cracking on the outside around the perimeter. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420717#420717 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 07:32:30 AM PST US From: "Geoff Combs" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation The lord adhesive is very strong and easy to use. It is great for windows, attaching the canopy top and gluing in an Overhead if you have one. You could also use it to glue door skins together. It will not craze the windows Geoff Combs -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of bob88 Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 8:12 PM Subject: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation? Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike weld-on. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700 ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:19:26 AM PST US From: "Ben Westfall" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation I've used the diamond wheel bit for dremel tools to cut most of the thinner fiberglass parts. It's makes short work of the things if the glass is not too thick. I did not know about it when I did the doors but just about everything after that I used the dremel. I find it easier to steer than using a die grinder plus my air compressor does not keep up with die grinder usage either. I also used this to trim the door windows as well. I then followed up w/belt sander to smooth the edges and clean up rounded corners and such. http://www.dremel.com/en-us/Accessories/Pages/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=545 -Ben -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Mathia Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 5:36 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation I have a few questions. What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows? Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer fiberglass door panel prior to gluing them together? Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels together to form the doors? RCM ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 08:26:44 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation From: Dave Saylor I like the diamond Dremel too. There's a mandrel I think called EZ Lock that lets it tip and sort of swivel somewhat. They're a little expensive but they work really well. On Friday, March 21, 2014, Ben Westfall wrote: > > > > I've used the diamond wheel bit for dremel tools to cut > -- --Dave Saylor ________________________________ Message 8 _____________________________________ Time: 08:31:56 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation From: Dave Saylor Ron, did you use micro balloons, or Cabosil? They're not the same thing, and easy to get confused since they look similar. Cabosil is more appropriate when making a structural bond. On Friday, March 21, 2014, Ron Walker wrote: > > > > > epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. > -- --Dave Saylor ________________________________ Message 9 _____________________________________ Time: 08:47:12 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation From: Ron Walker Thanks for the correction Dave - I need to be more precise in my wording. You'd think that I'd know that after taking your workshop ;o) --Ron On Fri, 2014-03-21 at 08:31 -0700, Dave Saylor wrote: > Ron, did you use micro balloons, or Cabosil? They're not the same > thing, and easy to get confused since they look similar. Cabosil is > more appropriate when making a structural bond. > ________________________________ Message 10 ____________________________________ Time: 08:47:41 AM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation From: Dave Saylor I've seen Hysol go both ways on windows. Please keep in mind that the Lancair window install is much different, utilizing a heavy secondary layup to secure the plexiglass in a strong groove, not just a joggle. Like instead of the cosmetic layup to prevent cracks, they use several layers of heavier cloth. I used Hysol around the joggle of my windscreen and it's been fine. But knowing what I know now, I wouldn't do it that way again. On Friday, March 21, 2014, Carl Froehlich wrote: > carl.froehlich@verizon.net > > > I followed the lead of the Lancair builders and used what they use for > glass > install, Hysol: > > http://shop.lancair.com/inventoryD.asp?item_no=9360-QT&CatId={992B7B06-E01B- > 4918-BB0C-79343CDB7869} > While this is a nice product, I suspect you can find other options along > this line. > > I mixed just a little flox with this to thicken it. After letting set for > a > several days, I did add a couple of bids of glass over the joint as I've > seen several RV-10s with the "window frame" crack. This added fiberglass > extends over the mating surface on the outside. I also did not like the > Van's approach of not having glass on the outside as a structural element. > If you just use micro or flox to fill in the crack between the window edge > and cabin top, you have a high likelihood of paint cracking. > > If you are not going to add the overlay of glass and just rely on the > adhesive then you might want to stick to Van's instructions. > > No matter which way you go make sure you roughen up the mating surfaces > with > something like 40 grit paper. > > If I had to do it again I'd do the same approach. > > Carl > > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com ] On Behalf Of > Linn Walters > Sent: Thursday, March 20, 2014 10:03 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation > > > > > On 3/20/2014 8:11 PM, bob88 wrote: > > > > > > Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation? > ACS has spray lat that puts a latex coating on the plexiglass .... the > thicker the coat the easier it is to peel off. > > > Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike > weld-on. > I plan on using the rubber sealant that they use to glue car windshields in > and cover the joint with real lightweight fiberglass cloth. > There's also a product called sikaflex. > http://www.rv8.ch/article.php/20041122082807627 > I think flox will be too brittle and will crack loose due to the expansion > coefficient differences between the acrylic and the FG cabin top. > Linn > > > > > > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700 > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > > ----- > > No virus found in this message. > > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > > > > > > -- --Dave Saylor ________________________________ Message 11 ____________________________________ Time: 08:57:32 AM PST US From: Matt Dralle Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI At 05:24 PM 3/20/2014 Thursday, you wrote: >--> Avionics-List message posted by: Ralph Finch > >Why did I want the -200? For the same reasons Matt cited. I just >don't see the benefit of merely replacing some circuit breakers that >is essentially the role of the VP-X. I think the biggest downfall of the VP-200 was that potential customers didn't really understand just how *awesome* the automation functionality is and how it really works. Many times at fly-ins or other events where I've had an opportunity to show off the VP-200, fellow homebuilders are in awe of the automation after I've take a few minutes to explain just how it works and how it significantly reduces my workload during the various phases of flight. The fact that the VP-200 knows, based on GPS/RPM/AHRS data exactly what mode of flight that I'm in - Start/Taxi/Runup/Takeoff/Cruse/Landing - and switches on or off the electrical circuits that I've pre-programmed for each mode of flight is simply genius. Not only is the concept certainly revolutionary in the market, but the VP-200's implementation of it just works and works great. The only external input that is missing to the logic, IMHO, is the determination of Day vs. Night. I have to manually turn the position lights on. It seems like either the input from the exiting dimmer electric eye or from some sort of real time clock could make this happen. Ralph's idea of adding automation to the VP-x though the use of an external embedded processor and display is a good one. Maybe when I get the RV-8 back in the air, I'll start working on something along those lines... :-) Best regards, - Matt Dralle RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer Mode Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream! Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too! For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com ________________________________ Message 12 ____________________________________ Time: 10:12:49 AM PST US From: Shaun Dawson Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV8-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI Based on GPS information (position and time), you can know whether you are in Day or night, no problem, without having to resort to external devices such as a light sensor (which can break). I would think that sort of thing would be quite easy. Shaun On Fri, Mar 21, 2014 at 8:56 AM, Matt Dralle wrote: > --> RV8-List message posted by: Matt Dralle > > At 05:24 PM 3/20/2014 Thursday, you wrote: > >--> Avionics-List message posted by: Ralph Finch < > ralphmariafinch@gmail.com> > > > >Why did I want the -200? For the same reasons Matt cited. I just > >don't see the benefit of merely replacing some circuit breakers that > >is essentially the role of the VP-X. > > > I think the biggest downfall of the VP-200 was that potential customers > didn't really understand just how *awesome* the automation functionality is > and how it really works. Many times at fly-ins or other events where I've > had an opportunity to show off the VP-200, fellow homebuilders are in awe > of the automation after I've take a few minutes to explain just how it > works and how it significantly reduces my workload during the various > phases of flight. The fact that the VP-200 knows, based on GPS/RPM/AHRS > data exactly what mode of flight that I'm in - > Start/Taxi/Runup/Takeoff/Cruse/Landing - and switches on or off the > electrical circuits that I've pre-programmed for each mode of flight is > simply genius. Not only is the concept certainly revolutionary in the > market, but the VP-200's implementation of it just works and works great. > The only external input that is missing to the logic, IMHO, is the > determination of Day vs. Night. I have to manually turn the position > lights o! > n. It seems like either the input from the exiting dimmer electric eye > or from some sort of real time clock could make this happen. > > Ralph's idea of adding automation to the VP-x though the use of an > external embedded processor and display is a good one. Maybe when I get > the RV-8 back in the air, I'll start working on something along those > lines... :-) > > Best regards, > > > - > Matt Dralle > > RV-8 #82880 N998RV "Ruby Vixen" > http://www.mattsrv8.com - Matt's Complete RV-8 Construction Log > http://www.mattsrv8.com/Mishap - Landing Mishap Rebuild Log > http://www.youtube.com/MattsRV8 - Matt's RV-8 HDTV YouTube Channel > Status: 172+ Hours TTSN - Rebuilding Fuselage After Landing Mishap... > > RV-6 #20916 N360EM "The Flyer" > http://www.mattsrv6.com - Matt's RV-6 Revitalization Log > Status: 200+ Hours Since Purchase - Upgrades Complete; Now In Full Flyer > Mode > > Matt's Livermore Airport Live ATC Stream! > Check out the live ATC stream directly from my hangar at the Livermore > Airport. Includes both Tower and Ground transmissions. Archives too! > For entertainment purposes only. http://klvk.matronics.com > > ________________________________ Message 13 ____________________________________ Time: 10:29:22 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI From: "Mike Whisky" Matt, I am with you the VP-200 is awesome I touch only engine and flight controls trim and flaps. The rest is done by the VP-200 Great Product I still don't understand why they dropped it. Mike -------- RV-10 builder (flying, test phase) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420762#420762 ________________________________ Message 14 ____________________________________ Time: 10:34:17 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI From: "Jim Berry" Matt, On this tread I received 3 copies of your first message and 4 copies of the second message, each with the same time stamp. Is this an issue on your end or mine? Thanks Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420763#420763 ________________________________ Message 15 ____________________________________ Time: 10:47:55 AM PST US From: "Pascal" Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI There was so many more ways to improve the 200 with "future software" releases. By ending the production and moving on to "more simple" they really took their flagship out of the company. My hope is that they bring out a newer version with everything it is capable of, so others do not miss out on a asset in the panel. -----Original Message----- From: Mike Whisky Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 10:28 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Vertical Power move to Everett, WA and Oshkosh, WI Matt, I am with you the VP-200 is awesome I touch only engine and flight controls trim and flaps. The rest is done by the VP-200 Great Product I still don't understand why they dropped it. Mike -------- RV-10 builder (flying, test phase) #511 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420762#420762 ________________________________ Message 16 ____________________________________ Time: 12:17:15 PM PST US From: Dan Masys Subject: RV10-List: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation "Everyone seems to dislike weld-on" is something of a misapprehension, no doubt caused by the amount of chatter on the newsgroups. Van's didn't choose Weld-on lightly or without the engineering to support its preferred use. This thread was alive back in 2007 when I was building my -10, and I was persuaded, particularly by builders outside of the US who could not get Weld-on and referred to the practices of fast glass builders in using a structural adhesive that would accommodate differential thermal effects of the plexi and the composite canopy. So I went with one of those products (no longer offered but essentially like ES6279 Aeropoxy). Fast forward about 450 flight hours, and I am at 15,000 feet over Atlanta's Class B airspace, without outside air temperature -15C and inside the cabin toasty warm at 75 degrees, with the heaters going wide open. Happy as proverbial clam when BAM! a loud noise and I look back to see that the rear window has come unglued and departed the aircraft: http://faculty.washington.edu/dmasys/RV10/RV10_lostwind_rearview.jpg Suffice it to say I glued in the replacement using Van's procedure and Weld-on, which is terrific stuff, not as much a problem as the list would portray, and known to be reliable. So from my perspective you put yourself at unnecessary risk of an unhappy event if you get creative in deviating from the factory guidance on this issue. Sadder but wiser... -Dan Masys N104LD 670 hrs > On Thu, Mar 20, 2014 at 5:11 PM, bob88 wrote: > >> >> Is there a best practice for plexiglas protection during installation? >> Also what not use flox to glue them in? Everyone seems to dislike weld-on. >> >> >> Read this topic online here: >> >> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420700#420700 >> ________________________________ Message 17 ____________________________________ Time: 12:32:02 PM PST US From: "Ron Mathia" Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation Thanks, Ron, for the suggestions, as soon as it warms up enough to work in the hanger I will start on the doors. Regards, RCM -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ron Walker Sent: Friday, March 21, 2014 8:57 AM Subject: RE: RV10-List: Best way to protect Plexiglas during installation I'm doing this very work right now. I use an angle die grinder to cut the door panels. Use the disks that Vans supplies in the kit. The cutting is easy, just wear a mask and long-sleeves - the glass dust will get everywhere. As for the door adhesive, I followed the instructions and used West Systems epoxy thickened with micro-balloons. Just bead all of the outer edges of door and window opening, cleco the inside window frame together, and tape/clamp/weight the door itself into position on the cabin top. Make sure to mask off the cabin top itself, you don't want the door curing to the frame - I used clear packing tape. For the windows ... I've not yet started on that aspect. --Ron On Fri, 2014-03-21 at 08:36 -0400, Ron Mathia wrote: > > I have a few questions. > What is the best method to cut/trim the Plexiglas windows? > Secondly, what is the best method to cut/trim the inner and outer > fiberglass door panel prior to gluing them together? > Finally, what is the best adhesive to use when gluing the two panels > together to form the doors? > RCM > ________________________________ Message 18 ____________________________________ Time: 12:42:00 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: FS: 6 Cyl Slick Mag From: "Barry" The Mag has been sold. Thanks Barry Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420776#420776 ________________________________ Message 19 ____________________________________ Time: 01:05:05 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation From: "rv10flyer" I think Weld-On 10 is too thin, making it messy to work with and it does not fill gaps properly. I called the mfr and they recommeded Weld-On 45. A special cartridge gun dispenser and mixing nozzles are needed which is probably why Van's recommends Weld-On 10. A friend up in PA used it and I will pick it up in the next few weeks if someone needs it. I have been to 16.5 at -2C with heat and vents open just to see if I could blow one out. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420778#420778 ________________________________ Message 20 ____________________________________ Time: 01:15:49 PM PST US From: Tim Olson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation Only -2C????? Man, that ain't nothing. You should come up here and see how it goes. My hangar was -35C this winter, and I've been flying many times at way lower than -2C. -2C is the temperature at which Wisconsin folk start wearing shorts when they shovel the driveway. Tim do not archive On 3/21/2014 3:04 PM, rv10flyer wrote: > > > I think Weld-On 10 is too thin, making it messy to work with and it > does not fill gaps properly. I called the mfr and they recommeded > Weld-On 45. A special cartridge gun dispenser and mixing nozzles are > needed which is probably why Van's recommends Weld-On 10. A friend up > in PA used it and I will pick it up in the next few weeks if someone > needs it. I have been to 16.5 at -2C with heat and vents open just to > see if I could blow one out. > > -------- Wayne G. > > ________________________________ Message 21 ____________________________________ Time: 01:30:24 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Best way to protect plexiglas during installation From: Justin Jones Try Alaska! On Mar 21, 2014, at 14:15, Tim Olson wrote: > > Only -2C????? > > Man, that ain't nothing. > You should come up here and see how it goes. > My hangar was -35C this winter, and I've been flying > many times at way lower than -2C. > > -2C is the temperature at which Wisconsin folk start > wearing shorts when they shovel the driveway. > > Tim > do not archive > > > > > On 3/21/2014 3:04 PM, rv10flyer wrote: >> >> >> I think Weld-On 10 is too thin, making it messy to work with and it >> does not fill gaps properly. I called the mfr and they recommeded >> Weld-On 45. A special cartridge gun dispenser and mixing nozzles are >> needed which is probably why Van's recommends Weld-On 10. A friend up >> in PA used it and I will pick it up in the next few weeks if someone >> needs it. I have been to 16.5 at -2C with heat and vents open just to >> see if I could blow one out. >> >> -------- Wayne G. > > > > ________________________________ Message 22 ____________________________________ Time: 03:53:04 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: RV10s near Daytona From: "rvdave" Wondering if there are any build projects in process within a reasonable radius of Daytona? Particularly Ormomd or Flagler area is where I'll be staying next week & probably a trip over to S & F will be in order. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420791#420791 ________________________________ Message 23 ____________________________________ Time: 04:06:20 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV10s near Daytona From: Jesse Saint N256H was at Spruce Creek today, but based near Ocala. A build project will be at X35 for finish up starting Monday. Feel free to stop by. Jesse Saint I-TEC, Inc. jesse@itecusa.org www.itecusa.org www.mavericklsa.com C: 352-427-0285 O: 352-465-4545 F: 815-377-3694 Sent from my iPhone > On Mar 21, 2014, at 6:52 PM, "rvdave" wrote: > > > Wondering if there are any build projects in process within a reasonable radius of Daytona? Particularly Ormomd or Flagler area is where I'll be staying next week & probably a trip over to S & F will be in order. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420791#420791 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 24 ____________________________________ Time: 06:53:14 PM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: RV10s near Daytona From: "rvdave" Ok , I will be down end of next week thru first week of April, sounds good--my son and I may look you up, thanks for the info. -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420809#420809 ________________________________ Message 25 ____________________________________ Time: 07:58:37 PM PST US Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: RV10s near Daytona From: Jesse Saint I'll be here next week, but I'll be in sun-n-fun the whole following week. Please call ahead a day. Jesse Sent from my iPad > On Mar 21, 2014, at 9:52 PM, "rvdave" wrote: > > > Ok , I will be down end of next week thru first week of April, sounds good--my son and I may look you up, thanks for the info. > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=420809#420809 > > > > > > > > > > ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.