Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 07:13 AM - Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (bill.peyton)
2. 08:02 AM - Re: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Kelly McMullen)
3. 08:11 AM - Re: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Phillip Perry)
4. 10:32 AM - Re: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Ben Westfall)
5. 12:01 PM - Re: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Rick Lark)
6. 01:38 PM - Re: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Michael Kraus)
7. 03:43 PM - camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Dave Saylor)
8. 04:34 PM - Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Jesse Saint)
9. 06:39 PM - Re: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl (Phillip Perry)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of camlocs from
Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt camlocs is the
new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the joggle. You will have
to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a large enough flat area for
the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and weakening the cowl. The hinge
does just fine, after 250 hours it is a piece of cake to remove. I used 5
#8 screws at the bottom on each side.
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
Interesting, as I have the pink cowl with gray outer coating obtained in
fall of 2010.
I installed Skybolt with their supplied mounting tabs for entire
firewall as well as the horizontal parting line.
There was adequate flange all the way around. I did not need to grind
anything in the honeycomb area.
Kelly
40866, allegedly finishing.
On 4/25/2014 7:12 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of camlocs from
Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt camlocs is the
new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the joggle. You will
have to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a large enough flat area
for the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and weakening the cowl. The hinge
does just fine, after 250 hours it is a piece of cake to remove. I used
5 #8 screws at the bottom on each side.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
>
>
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough flange for
my skybolts. Weird.
So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos somewhere
of it.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
On Apr 25, 2014, at 10:01 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com> wrote:
Interesting, as I have the pink cowl with gray outer coating obtained in fall of
2010.
I installed Skybolt with their supplied mounting tabs for entire firewall as well
as the horizontal parting line.
There was adequate flange all the way around. I did not need to grind anything
in the honeycomb area.
Kelly
40866, allegedly finishing.
> On 4/25/2014 7:12 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
>
> I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of camlocs from
Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt camlocs is the
new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the joggle. You will
have to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a large enough flat area
for the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and weakening the cowl. The hinge
does just fine, after 250 hours it is a piece of cake to remove. I used
5 #8 screws at the bottom on each side.
>
> --------
> Bill
> WA0SYV
> Aviation Partners, LLC
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I have the pink cowl w/o the gray exterior and it had plenty of flange for
the skybolts all around. I am using the skybolt upper kit, hinges on the
lower cowl sides, and 3 #8 screws on each side on the bottom of the cowl.
Not flying yet though.
I would not let the lack of flange deter you from skybolts if you wanted to
use them. It is not a difficult task to remove some of the honeycomb. I
don't think it weakens the cowl at all when you do that because essentially
your making your cowl match how most of them were molded from the start. I
would seal the edge of the honeycomb and potentially layup a thin layer or
two of glass if you felt you sanded the shell a bit thin in spots. In total
it's probably on a couple hour job.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
Sent: Friday, April 25, 2014 8:11 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
flange for my skybolts. Weird.
So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
somewhere of it.
Phil
Sent from my iPhone
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
Guys, FYI
I have the pink cowl, just fitted recently, and I had to grind away the
foam structural part on the top right corner just to make the piano hinge
fit. The foam was very crooked along the aft edge. I covered the area
that I ground away with fiberglass cloth to replace the structural foam I
removed. I am using 4 #8 screws & nut plates.
Rick
#40956
Southampton, Ont
On Fri, Apr 25, 2014 at 1:32 PM, Ben Westfall <rv10@sinkrate.com> wrote:
>
> I have the pink cowl w/o the gray exterior and it had plenty of flange for
> the skybolts all around. I am using the skybolt upper kit, hinges on the
> lower cowl sides, and 3 #8 screws on each side on the bottom of the cowl.
> Not flying yet though.
>
> I would not let the lack of flange deter you from skybolts if you wanted to
> use them. It is not a difficult task to remove some of the honeycomb. I
> don't think it weakens the cowl at all when you do that because essentially
> your making your cowl match how most of them were molded from the start. I
> would seal the edge of the honeycomb and potentially layup a thin layer or
> two of glass if you felt you sanded the shell a bit thin in spots. In
> total
> it's probably on a couple hour job.
>
> -Ben
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2014 8:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
>
>
> Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
> flange for my skybolts. Weird.
>
> So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
> somewhere of it.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
I'm pretty sure the variability we are seeing has to do with both some of the cowling
manufacturing variability, and with the variability in the front flange
of the engine to the firewall dimension. Since all the cowls are custom cut
and fitted, some end up with more or less flange than others.
I'm my experience, the fiberglass on the top and bottom of the foam is significantly
thinner than the flanges. If you grind away the foam, you will have to
add in several layers of fiberglass.
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 1:32 PM, "Ben Westfall" <rv10@sinkrate.com> wrote:
>
>
> I have the pink cowl w/o the gray exterior and it had plenty of flange for
> the skybolts all around. I am using the skybolt upper kit, hinges on the
> lower cowl sides, and 3 #8 screws on each side on the bottom of the cowl.
> Not flying yet though.
>
> I would not let the lack of flange deter you from skybolts if you wanted to
> use them. It is not a difficult task to remove some of the honeycomb. I
> don't think it weakens the cowl at all when you do that because essentially
> your making your cowl match how most of them were molded from the start. I
> would seal the edge of the honeycomb and potentially layup a thin layer or
> two of glass if you felt you sanded the shell a bit thin in spots. In total
> it's probably on a couple hour job.
>
> -Ben
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Phillip Perry
> Sent: Friday, April 25, 2014 8:11 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl
>
>
> Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
> flange for my skybolts. Weird.
>
> So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
> somewhere of it.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 7
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| Subject: | camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
In general, 1/4-turns don't clamp as tight as as a screw. That area is
pretty flexible so it benefits from good clampup. I don't think anyone has
used the stock hinges for very long.
Use the same hardware as the support plate and it's no big deal to pull out
all 12 screws.
On Thursday, April 24, 2014, Chris Hukill
<cjhukill@cox.net<javascript:_e(%7B%7D,'cvml','cjhukill@cox.net');>>
wrote:
> I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the
> bottom of the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now with
> hinges on the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has
> hinges on the side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very happy with
> the way the cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up until I install the
> pins, a one man job. I was thinking that the camlocs might prevent that
> smooth installation because the camlocs would hang up the cowl from sliding
> aft. I can easily change now to nutplates. Can anyone give me any feedback
> on this configuration?
> Chris Hukill
> getting closer everyday
>
> *
>
>
> *
>
>
--
--Dave Saylor
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
We have been using the stock hinges for 9 years and 1,300+ hours.
Jesse Saint
I-TEC, Inc.
jesse@itecusa.org
www.itecusa.org
www.mavericklsa.com
C: 352-427-0285
O: 352-465-4545
F: 815-377-3694
Sent from my iPhone
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 6:42 PM, Dave Saylor <dave.saylor.aircrafters@gmail.co
m> wrote:
>
> In general, 1/4-turns don't clamp as tight as as a screw. That area is pr
etty flexible so it benefits from good clampup. I don't think anyone has use
d the stock hinges for very long.
>
> Use the same hardware as the support plate and it's no big deal to pull ou
t all 12 screws.
>
>> On Thursday, April 24, 2014, Chris Hukill <cjhukill@cox.net> wrote:
>> I saw a post on VansAirforce about Camlocs causing problems on the bottom
of the cowl. I am installing the cowling on my RV10 right now with hinges o
n the side of the bottom cowl and camlocs on the bottom. My RV8 has hinges o
n the side and nutplates on the bottom, and I am very happy with the way the
cowl slides aft and the hinges hold it up until I install the pins, a one m
an job. I was thinking that the camlocs might prevent that smooth installati
on because the camlocs would hang up the cowl from sliding aft. I can easily
change now to nutplates. Can anyone give me any feedback on this configurat
ion?
>> Chris Hukill
>> getting closer everyday
>>
>>
>> get="_blank">http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List
>> tp://forums.matronics.com
>> _blank">http://www.matronics.com/contribution
>>
>
>
> --
> --Dave Saylor
>
>
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
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=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: camlocs on the bottom of cowl |
Here is the photo that I mentioned showing the interference with the
honeycomb and skybolt tabs.
After reading some of the others experiences, I suspect the answer is in
the spinner/prop selection. I'm running a 3 blade MT and it came with a
factory spinner. I suspect if I fitted vans spinner to a different prop,
it would move the cowling further forward by a .25" to .5". The MT
spinner does sit back a little further and after you set the gap between
the back of the spinner and the front of the cowling, that could easily
make up the difference between hitting the honeycomb or not.
I'm not going to put the work in to making the skybolts work with my MT
setup. So if anyone is interested in a full set for the upper cowl, lower
cowl, and sides, let me know.
Phil
On Friday, April 25, 2014, Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com> wrote:
> Mine (ordered very close to the same time Kelly's) doesn't have enough
> flange for my skybolts. Weird.
>
> So I'm switching back to hinges at this point. I've got some photos
> somewhere of it.
>
> Phil
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Apr 25, 2014, at 10:01 AM, Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com<javascript:;>>
> wrote:
>
> >
>
> Interesting, as I have the pink cowl with gray outer coating obtained in
> fall of 2010.
> I installed Skybolt with their supplied mounting tabs for entire firewall
> as well as the horizontal parting line.
> There was adequate flange all the way around. I did not need to grind
> anything in the honeycomb area.
> Kelly
> 40866, allegedly finishing.
>
> > On 4/25/2014 7:12 AM, bill.peyton wrote:
> >
> >
> > I posted this on VAF a long time ago. I started down the path of
> camlocs from Skybolt and changed back to hinge. The issue with the skybolt
> camlocs is the new cowl does not have enough edge overlap as part of the
> joggle. You will have to grind the cowl along the upper edge to create a
> large enough flat area for the camloc strip to sit on. A lot of work and
> weakening the cowl. The hinge does just fine, after 250 hours it is a
> piece of cake to remove. I used 5 #8 screws at the bottom on each side.
> >
> > --------
> > Bill
> > WA0SYV
> > Aviation Partners, LLC
> >
> >
> >
> >
> > Read this topic online here:
> >
> > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=422366#422366
>
>
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