RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 05/16/14


Total Messages Posted: 3



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 04:24 AM - aerosport rudder trim (Rob Kermanj)
     2. 08:23 AM - Re: aerosport rudder trim (g.combs)
     3. 02:35 PM - Re: Airflow Performance Purge Valve Fitted to RV-10 (Bill Watson)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 04:24:03 AM PST US
    From: Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com>
    Subject: aerosport rudder trim
    Hello List, Anyone has installed Aerosport's rudder trim kit? Need a picture of the rudder arm angle in relation to horizontal. It seems that in order for the spring to clear the sub panels, the arms have to installed about 25 deg from horizontal and it seems too flat of an angle to me. His website picture clips the rudder arms. Thank you. Rob Kermanj


    Message 2


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    Time: 08:23:34 AM PST US
    From: "g.combs" <g.combs@aerosportmodeling.com>
    Subject: Re: aerosport rudder trim
    Rob If you have the standard vans panel and depending on where you mount the uni t you could have a interference with the sub panel. You can angle the arms if needed a little. The other option is to lower the Spring holes on the arms Geoff Combs Aerosport products Sent from my iPhone Geoff Combs Aerosport Modeling & Design > On May 16, 2014, at 6:23 AM, Rob Kermanj <flysrv10@gmail.com> wrote: > > Hello List, > > Anyone has installed Aerosport's rudder trim kit? > > Need a picture of the rudder arm angle in relation to horizontal. It seem s that in order for the spring to clear the sub panels, the arms have to ins talled about 25 deg from horizontal and it seems too flat of an angle to me. > > His website picture clips the rudder arms. > > Thank you. > > > Rob Kermanj > > > > > 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D 3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3 D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D =3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D=3D >


    Message 3


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    Time: 02:35:58 PM PST US
    From: Bill Watson <Mauledriver@nc.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Airflow Performance Purge Valve Fitted to RV-10
    Okay, I'll try that. My hot starts do result in some rough running for up to about 30 seconds or so. If leaving the boost pump off eliminates some of that. I'll change. Thanks! On 5/12/2014 10:50 AM, Kelly McMullen wrote: > > You would get similar results, but smoother start if you left the > boost pump off. > The mixture in the cylinder during a hot start is more often rich than > not, because of fuel being boiled out of line from flow divider to > nozzle. > The mechanical pump brings up the system fuel pressure within a couple > revolutions. If you simply shut down with throttle at 1000 rpm, and > leave it alone, it will be just right for the subsequent hot start. > Just my experience flying a Bendix fuel injected Mooney in AZ for over > 15 yrs. > > On 5/12/2014 7:41 AM, Bill Watson wrote: >> On 5/11/2014 2:16 PM, JimVillani wrote: >>> >>> Don, >>> >>> I am having a hell of a time starting my IO540 on a Hot Start, no >>> problem when it is cold. >>> >>> What is your secret? >>> >>> Please advise.. >>> >>> >> I'm coming up on 500 hours with a stock Vans-sourced engine. Here's >> my cold and hot start procedure. Works without fail unless I have a >> brain fart and do something else (it happens). >> >> Cold Start: Crack the throttle (1/4" on quadrant), boost pump on, >> open mixture for 5 seconds (or more) and close mixture. Crank until >> it fires and smoothly open mixture. If it doesn't fire after 1 or 2 >> prop turns, stop cranking, open mixture for a couple more seconds, >> close and crank. Can't remember having to ever repeat that again. >> (Rather than the 5 seconds, watching the fuel flow meter while the >> mixture is open is more effective. Just open until the fuel flow >> goes up and then stabilizes. Then close and start. No 2nd tries >> required when following this method). >> >> Hot Start: Crack throttle, boost pump on, crank. Can takes 3 or 4 >> turns until it starts to fire, roughly. Smoothly open mixture. >> >> All movements are smooth. I only open mixture to the position >> slightly richer than I use for taxi, then once started, I lean it to >> my normal taxi setting (and LOP setting). >> >> If the throttle isn't cracked, neither method results in a start. I >> don't touch throttle until it starts, then I simply try to keep it >> around 1000rpms >> >> I do a fair number of hot starts - landing at home and filling up >> before taxi to hangar (definite hot start). Or, taxi to fill-up >> before taking off (not sure that qualifies but I use the hot start >> procedure). My home base is in Durham NC, so the ambient temps can >> be sky high. >> >> I'm not sure exactly who gave me these instructions. Might have been >> in the Van's doc but whatever... I've never been able to figure out >> what the big deal is with hot starts. This is my first fuel injected >> engine. >> >> Bill >> * >> >> >> * > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >




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