Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 06:10 AM - Re: N62DN (Jesse Saint)
2. 06:17 AM - Re: Amps spike when transmitting on comm2 (johngoodman)
3. 06:35 AM - Re: N62DN (cjay)
4. 07:08 AM - Re: N62DN (Cooprv7)
5. 07:59 AM - Re: N62DN (Bob Wilson)
6. 08:14 AM - Re: Re: Firewall Penetrations (Ron Mathia)
7. 08:28 AM - Re: N428RV First Flight (bill.peyton)
8. 08:40 AM - Re: Re: Firewall Penetrations (Les Kearney)
9. 12:43 PM - Re: Re: Firewall Penetrations (Kelly McMullen)
10. 01:47 PM - Re: Re: Firewall Penetrations (Ben Westfall)
11. 02:07 PM - Re: Trip out West (Roger Standley)
12. 06:27 PM - Re: Re: Firewall Penetrations (John Cox)
13. 07:18 PM - Re: N62DN (Bob Turner)
Message 1
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I didn't say couldn't, I said wouldn't. Big difference.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 16, 2014, at 11:00 PM, "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On 06/16/2014 08:29 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>> Are you flying your -10 yet? If not, then don't assume you can just trim for
a certain speed and it will stay. It's no Cessna. I told my instructor, when
I was working on my IFR that it was hard to hold altitude accurately. He didn't
believe me until he tried. Any slight stick pressure can give you a 500fpm climb
or descent. I'm not arguing for using the autopilot, just saying that it
isn't as simple as just trimming for a certain airspeed. With almost 700 RV-10
hours I still feel the same way, that I would not fly this plane IFR without
an autopilot.
>
> I am not, but I have yet to fly an airplane that cannot be trimmed for
> an airspeed. An airplane that cannot be trimmed for an airspeed
> essentially exhibits negative dynamic stability. I'm sure that's not
> the case for the RV-10. I've flown everything from Cessnas, to
> turboprops, to jets, and have yet to find an airplane that cannot be
> easily trimmed for airspeed. Not saying one doesn't exist, but they're
> not normal, and I don't think the RV-10 is one of them.
>
> Maintaining altitude is a different story. As long as you've got
> positive dynamic stability, you're still going to get a diminishing set
> of diversions that converge on the airspeed you're trimmed for, though a
> very maneuverable airplane will take more time to stabilize than a less
> maneuverable (more stable) airplane. That doesn't mean it won't trim for
> airspeed, but may hunt a bit for it. The jets I've flown have all been
> hard to hand-fly in level flight. When I started flying for the
> airlines, almost all the training the sim was autopilot-centric, and it
> took quite a few hours in the plane to get proficient hand flying it.
> The hardest hand-flown maneuver in an airliner, for me, was leveling off
> from a climb and accelerating to cruise speed with no autopilot or
> flight director. Very twitchy, the trim very sensitive, the aircraft
> extremely pitch-sensitive to thrust changes, and all equipped with
> flight attendants that will bitch if they can tell you're hand-flying
> while they're walking around. Still, they're all very easy to trim for
> a stabilized climb/descent at a specific airspeed. Flying a stabilized
> approach by hand was cake in comparison to flying level.
>
> So, yes, I can believe that maintaining altitude in an RV-10 (known for
> being maneuverable) is tricky. I *do* believe that descents are as
> simple as trimming for airspeed in a descent. If you've got a +/-5 hunt
> for airspeed, close enough! Maybe even better that it hunts a bit, I'd
> rather you were paying attention to airspeed than trying to restart your
> engine, because maybe you'll land safely.
>
> As a somewhat snide side remark that I still hope you'll think about for
> a second: If you can't fly an RV-10 IFR without an autopilot, I hope you
> either
>
> (a) don't fly an RV-10 IFR or
> (b) have two fully redundant autopilots installed.
>
> Berck
>
>
>
>
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Amps spike when transmitting on comm2 |
Mike Whisky wrote:
> John,
> What did you do to the audio panel or what was the problem? I would not know
how the audio panel could be involved in the problem.
>
> Regards
> Michael
Everything goes through my PMA9000EX. Which radio to transmit on, etc. It even
records. There are split modes, swap modes, music, all kinds of junk. In short,
there are a lot of wires, and a lot of things going on inside. Almost every
comm issue I've had was solved by a quick "re-boot" of the audio panel.
John
--------
#40572 Phase One complete in 2011
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425003#425003
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Bob Turner wrote:
>
> Now my question I need help on, is prop full aft the best feathering no power
glide setting? Frankly, I'm embarrassed that I don't know this.
>
> cjay
> It's not designed to give you best glide,but rather to keep the autopilot from
inadvertantly stalling the aircraft. I'd recommend setting the minimum speed
closer to 70 kias, in case you want the autopilot to fly an approach at, say,
75 kias. (Trio has the same feature).
ok that makes sense, thanks.
>
> Yes, if the engine is windmilling, the rpm within governing range, you have oil
pressure, etc., then minimum rpm setting (full out) will give you minimum drag.
You can also reduce the drag by full open (forward) throttle.
ok thanks, two new questions.
1. If the engine stopped for benign reasons, e.g., fuel depletion in one tank,
and you switched tanks, won't the wind resistance on the prop jump start the
engine? and if so, is it better to have the prop in max setting or min setting
for this?
2. Why does open throttle reduce drag?
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425004#425004
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(Sorry if this is a repeat, my first try didn't seem to go through)
I've been mulling whether to add my .02 to thus, but having experienced a catastrophic
engine failure in an RV-6 I'll submit my thoughts. This is not a
critique of what happened in any way as I don't have all the facts, but simply
lessons learned from my experience. As many have said in a number of posts,
fly the airplane first, no matter how exciting things get. I'm not sold on the
autopilot use since the airplane trims so nicely, but by all means use whatever
it takes to keep flying airspeed. I flew fighters for 20 years and lived
on angle of attack indicators, however in light airplanes the stall and max range
speeds really don't vary much within the acceptable weight range so I would
argue a solid airspeed cross check and good feel for the airplane is far more
important. The RV-10 has a very subtle stall which is good, but with occasional
practice it is still very perceptible. It is also very important to know
the best range airspeed engine out, in my airplane's case it's about 80 knots.
If you are faster when the engine quits, trade airspeed for altitude which
will result in time and options.
As my RV-6 glider was cruising over heavily forested hills in search of a
place to land a few important things became clear. First of all, when it gets
grim don't worry about what's best for the airplane, that's what insurance is
for. Do what's best to make sure the pink bodies in the airplane are going to
fare as well as possible. I actually made a conscientious decision that the
airplane was a write off and focused on survivability and am very thankful for
it.
Second, fly the airplane at max range speed until landing is assured where
you want to go. My passenger was a very low time private pilot and as we cruised
in silence he recommended a runway off in the distance on an island. I pointed
out that it was rising in the windscreen which means we couldn't make it.
Stretching out a glide by slowing down only works when you are just about to
land and have the airspeed above stall to spare, too many accidents have been
caused by trying to make the airplane fly farther than aerodynamics will allow.
Third, be very sensitive to what the airplane is telling you. Once I had the
small clearing I thankfully found made, I was doing small S turns to eliminate
the extra airspeed and altitude. I had also delayed extending the flaps until
landing was assured. During one of the turns I sensed the tickle of an oncoming
accelerated stall and quickly backed off. The airplane is happy to talk
to you, but make sure you are listening.
Finally, the accident happened at a time in my flying career when I was most
proficient at engine out situations. As an additional duty I ran the small
T-34C program and therefore routinely flew this essentially light airplane fairly
often and doing practice engine out approaches was a routine event. I have
to admit I don't practice them now as much as I would advocate, but they are
a great idea regardless of one's experience. Not only for getting the procedures
down, but also getting a realistic expectation of how far the airplane will
glide and what that looks like out the window.
Enough rambling, hope this helps someone,
Marcus
40286
On Jun 16, 2014, at 0:08, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com> wrote:
Does not explain electrical power loss unless maybe he turned it off per his emergency
checklist. That will be one of the last items before an off field landing.
He was trying to make it that last .7 nm to the airport. I think I will go
practice stalls and slow flight with the airspeed tape covered again.
--------
Wayne G.
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=424914#424914
Message 5
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I guess I'd have to agree with Berck. I look at an autopilot as an assist not
a primary. With it on it's sort of like having a copilot and I used it frequently
to shoot approaches. But, unless I could actually fly the machine myself
and shoot the approach without the autopilot I wouldn't put myself in a situation
that the approach was required. As I have yet to build or even fly one I
have paid particular attention to the handling qualities in general as well as
the ability to fly it "hands on" in IFR condition. Based on that it appears
to be an excellent choice. All airplanes require a certain amount of "finesse"
to hand fly and the only way to develop that is to fly it.
Bob Wilson
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Jesse Saint
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 9:09 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: N62DN
I didn't say couldn't, I said wouldn't. Big difference.
Do not archive.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Jun 16, 2014, at 11:00 PM, "Berck E. Nash" <flyboy@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
>> On 06/16/2014 08:29 PM, Jesse Saint wrote:
>> Are you flying your -10 yet? If not, then don't assume you can just trim for
a certain speed and it will stay. It's no Cessna. I told my instructor, when
I was working on my IFR that it was hard to hold altitude accurately. He didn't
believe me until he tried. Any slight stick pressure can give you a 500fpm climb
or descent. I'm not arguing for using the autopilot, just saying that it
isn't as simple as just trimming for a certain airspeed. With almost 700 RV-10
hours I still feel the same way, that I would not fly this plane IFR without
an autopilot.
>
> I am not, but I have yet to fly an airplane that cannot be trimmed for
> an airspeed. An airplane that cannot be trimmed for an airspeed
> essentially exhibits negative dynamic stability. I'm sure that's not
> the case for the RV-10. I've flown everything from Cessnas, to
> turboprops, to jets, and have yet to find an airplane that cannot be
> easily trimmed for airspeed. Not saying one doesn't exist, but
> they're not normal, and I don't think the RV-10 is one of them.
>
> Maintaining altitude is a different story. As long as you've got
> positive dynamic stability, you're still going to get a diminishing
> set of diversions that converge on the airspeed you're trimmed for,
> though a very maneuverable airplane will take more time to stabilize
> than a less maneuverable (more stable) airplane. That doesn't mean it
> won't trim for airspeed, but may hunt a bit for it. The jets I've
> flown have all been hard to hand-fly in level flight. When I started
> flying for the airlines, almost all the training the sim was
> autopilot-centric, and it took quite a few hours in the plane to get proficient
hand flying it.
> The hardest hand-flown maneuver in an airliner, for me, was leveling
> off from a climb and accelerating to cruise speed with no autopilot or
> flight director. Very twitchy, the trim very sensitive, the aircraft
> extremely pitch-sensitive to thrust changes, and all equipped with
> flight attendants that will bitch if they can tell you're hand-flying
> while they're walking around. Still, they're all very easy to trim
> for a stabilized climb/descent at a specific airspeed. Flying a
> stabilized approach by hand was cake in comparison to flying level.
>
> So, yes, I can believe that maintaining altitude in an RV-10 (known
> for being maneuverable) is tricky. I *do* believe that descents are
> as simple as trimming for airspeed in a descent. If you've got a +/-5
> hunt for airspeed, close enough! Maybe even better that it hunts a
> bit, I'd rather you were paying attention to airspeed than trying to
> restart your engine, because maybe you'll land safely.
>
> As a somewhat snide side remark that I still hope you'll think about
> for a second: If you can't fly an RV-10 IFR without an autopilot, I
> hope you either
>
> (a) don't fly an RV-10 IFR or
> (b) have two fully redundant autopilots installed.
>
> Berck
>
>
>
>
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetrations |
Hi Les,
I'm not sure what the maximum engine "compartment" temperature may be, but
the nylock nuts should be usable in this location.
I could not determine exactly which nylon the nut manufacture use, could be
Nylon 6 or Nylon 66.
Nylon 6 has a heat deflection temp of 340F and Nylon 66 has on at 450F
Melt temp for 6 is 420F and 66 is 500F.
It the engine compartment get in the 350F range you will have other
component begin to fail.
Regards, Ron
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 1:49 AM
Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
Les,
I think the safeair pass-thru's would NOT work well for control cables. It
might be a bit tight to get all 3 cables through even the largest pass
through. If you did I think it would push the bend radius out quite a bit
from the firewall thus making them harder to route. I think Dave Saylor had
an issue with a cable that got harder and harder to actuate and required
replacment so it's not unheard of to have to replace a cable from time to
time. I wonder how difficult it would be to pull a single cable out?
I did much the same as David. In fact I borrowed his punch set and had a
few facetime calls w/him during the installation of mine so that I could
share the cussing and bleeding with somebody else.
On a somewhat related issue I see something on the SafeAir website that I'm
not sure if it would be a problem or not. They use nylock nuts on the pan
head screws to secure the pass-thru. Scroll to the pics about half way down
http://www.safeair1.com/averytools/firewallpassthrough.php. I would think
the heat of the firewall would require a locknut that is more appropriate
for the engine compartment.
My non-flying 2 cents.
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dhmoose
Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 8:33 PM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
Hi Les,
Yes, I did 4 stainless steel eyeball firewall penetrations and am very happy
with the installation.
Advantages:
They increase the safety of the firewall They allow flexible directions for
the cables to travel They can be removed from the engine side of the
firewall only! No need to get to the cabin side They provide for a tidy
installation
Disadvantages:
Increased expense
It took a little finesse to install them since you need more space from hole
center to hole center then what Vans specifies. I think I put two
side-by-side, one below that...and one off to the side (for the FAB) They
require custom control cable lengths since the length changes depending on
the installation
I believe I ordered everything from Spruce. The eyeballs are found here:
https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw1.php?clickkey=6551
I think you have to call them for the custom cables.
I hope this helps.
David
--------
David Halmos
RV-10
Flying!
Portland, OR
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: N428RV First Flight |
Congratulations!!!!!!!!!!!
--------
Bill
WA0SYV
Aviation Partners, LLC
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425018#425018
Message 8
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetrations |
Ron
I wouldn't use anything but steel locknuts FWF. As the safe air nuts are on the
aft side of the firewall, I suspect they would be okay.
Cheers
Les
Sent from my iPhone
> On Jun 17, 2014, at 11:13 AM, "Ron Mathia" <ron@touchtronics.com> wrote:
>
>
> Hi Les,
>
> I'm not sure what the maximum engine "compartment" temperature may be, but
> the nylock nuts should be usable in this location.
> I could not determine exactly which nylon the nut manufacture use, could be
> Nylon 6 or Nylon 66.
> Nylon 6 has a heat deflection temp of 340F and Nylon 66 has on at 450F
> Melt temp for 6 is 420F and 66 is 500F.
> It the engine compartment get in the 350F range you will have other
> component begin to fail.
>
> Regards, Ron
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 1:49 AM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
>
>
> Les,
>
> I think the safeair pass-thru's would NOT work well for control cables. It
> might be a bit tight to get all 3 cables through even the largest pass
> through. If you did I think it would push the bend radius out quite a bit
> from the firewall thus making them harder to route. I think Dave Saylor had
> an issue with a cable that got harder and harder to actuate and required
> replacment so it's not unheard of to have to replace a cable from time to
> time. I wonder how difficult it would be to pull a single cable out?
>
> I did much the same as David. In fact I borrowed his punch set and had a
> few facetime calls w/him during the installation of mine so that I could
> share the cussing and bleeding with somebody else.
>
> On a somewhat related issue I see something on the SafeAir website that I'm
> not sure if it would be a problem or not. They use nylock nuts on the pan
> head screws to secure the pass-thru. Scroll to the pics about half way down
> http://www.safeair1.com/averytools/firewallpassthrough.php. I would think
> the heat of the firewall would require a locknut that is more appropriate
> for the engine compartment.
>
> My non-flying 2 cents.
>
> -Ben
>
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dhmoose
> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 8:33 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
>
>
> Hi Les,
> Yes, I did 4 stainless steel eyeball firewall penetrations and am very happy
> with the installation.
>
> Advantages:
> They increase the safety of the firewall They allow flexible directions for
> the cables to travel They can be removed from the engine side of the
> firewall only! No need to get to the cabin side They provide for a tidy
> installation
>
> Disadvantages:
> Increased expense
> It took a little finesse to install them since you need more space from hole
> center to hole center then what Vans specifies. I think I put two
> side-by-side, one below that...and one off to the side (for the FAB) They
> require custom control cable lengths since the length changes depending on
> the installation
>
> I believe I ordered everything from Spruce. The eyeballs are found here:
> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw1.php?clickkey=6551
>
> I think you have to call them for the custom cables.
> I hope this helps.
> David
>
> --------
> David Halmos
> RV-10
> Flying!
> Portland, OR
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 9
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetrations |
Especially when you consider that even if the nylock melted, it is ONLY
to prevent the nut from vibrating loose. Under short term engine fire
conditions the nut is unlikely to back off for the few minutes you need
to get the plane on the ground.
I only worry about all metal lock nuts for items in direct contact with
heat over 200 degrees...exhaust components, etc.
The all metal locknuts Van's supplies are the worst possible choice.
They are so small that even a 3/8 socket is too big, they have almost no
surface contact at all. AN 363s are much nicer.
0On 6/17/2014 8:38 AM, Les Kearney wrote:
>
> Ron
>
> I wouldn't use anything but steel locknuts FWF. As the safe air nuts are on the
aft side of the firewall, I suspect they would be okay.
>
> Cheers
>
> Les
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
>> On Jun 17, 2014, at 11:13 AM, "Ron Mathia" <ron@touchtronics.com> wrote:
>>
>>
>> Hi Les,
>>
>> I'm not sure what the maximum engine "compartment" temperature may be, but
>> the nylock nuts should be usable in this location.
>> I could not determine exactly which nylon the nut manufacture use, could be
>> Nylon 6 or Nylon 66.
>> Nylon 6 has a heat deflection temp of 340F and Nylon 66 has on at 450F
>> Melt temp for 6 is 420F and 66 is 500F.
>> It the engine compartment get in the 350F range you will have other
>> component begin to fail.
>>
>> Regards, Ron
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Ben Westfall
>> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 1:49 AM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RE: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
>>
>>
>> Les,
>>
>> I think the safeair pass-thru's would NOT work well for control cables. It
>> might be a bit tight to get all 3 cables through even the largest pass
>> through. If you did I think it would push the bend radius out quite a bit
>> from the firewall thus making them harder to route. I think Dave Saylor had
>> an issue with a cable that got harder and harder to actuate and required
>> replacment so it's not unheard of to have to replace a cable from time to
>> time. I wonder how difficult it would be to pull a single cable out?
>>
>> I did much the same as David. In fact I borrowed his punch set and had a
>> few facetime calls w/him during the installation of mine so that I could
>> share the cussing and bleeding with somebody else.
>>
>> On a somewhat related issue I see something on the SafeAir website that I'm
>> not sure if it would be a problem or not. They use nylock nuts on the pan
>> head screws to secure the pass-thru. Scroll to the pics about half way down
>> http://www.safeair1.com/averytools/firewallpassthrough.php. I would think
>> the heat of the firewall would require a locknut that is more appropriate
>> for the engine compartment.
>>
>> My non-flying 2 cents.
>>
>> -Ben
>>
>>
>>
>> -----Original Message-----
>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of dhmoose
>> Sent: Monday, June 16, 2014 8:33 PM
>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>> Subject: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
>>
>>
>> Hi Les,
>> Yes, I did 4 stainless steel eyeball firewall penetrations and am very happy
>> with the installation.
>>
>> Advantages:
>> They increase the safety of the firewall They allow flexible directions for
>> the cables to travel They can be removed from the engine side of the
>> firewall only! No need to get to the cabin side They provide for a tidy
>> installation
>>
>> Disadvantages:
>> Increased expense
>> It took a little finesse to install them since you need more space from hole
>> center to hole center then what Vans specifies. I think I put two
>> side-by-side, one below that...and one off to the side (for the FAB) They
>> require custom control cable lengths since the length changes depending on
>> the installation
>>
>> I believe I ordered everything from Spruce. The eyeballs are found here:
>> https://www.aircraftspruce.com/catalog/appages/eyeballfw1.php?clickkey=6551
>>
>> I think you have to call them for the custom cables.
>> I hope this helps.
>> David
>>
>> --------
>> David Halmos
>> RV-10
>> Flying!
>> Portland, OR
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>>
>
>
Message 10
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetrations |
Kelly and Ron thanks for the education it is much appreciated. Now I have
one less thing to continually second guess myself on about my build!
-Ben
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
[mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 12:42 PM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
Especially when you consider that even if the nylock melted, it is ONLY to
prevent the nut from vibrating loose. Under short term engine fire
conditions the nut is unlikely to back off for the few minutes you need to
get the plane on the ground.
I only worry about all metal lock nuts for items in direct contact with heat
over 200 degrees...exhaust components, etc.
The all metal locknuts Van's supplies are the worst possible choice.
They are so small that even a 3/8 socket is too big, they have almost no
surface contact at all. AN 363s are much nicer.
Message 11
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FYI
Van's is having their RV12 Expo at Sun River=2C OR this week. Check Van's w
eb site.
Come join us.
> From: arplnplt@gmail.com
> Subject: RV10-List: Trip out West
> Date: Mon=2C 16 Jun 2014 09:55:15 -0500
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
>
>
> This week I will be flying myself and my wife to Sedona for a day or two
then on to Laguna Beach for a day=2C landing at John Wayne(SNA). Dropping
my wife in Laguna to spend a week at a spa with her sister. I will continu
ing on to Aurora Oregon to visit Van=92s. I will need to stop once between
Laguna and Aurora for fuel=2C food rest. I will then fly from Oregon Back
to WI.
> Any suggestions for a good layover spot in Northern California? Also in
Montana or that area?
>
> Dave Leikam
>
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>
>
>
Message 12
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| Subject: | Re: Firewall Penetrations |
There was a lot of valuable information on the subject of Fire some years
ago. Most builder give little consideration to Fire Annunciation, Fire
Suppression, Response Time to Loss of Aircraft and the temperatures likely
to be encountered with the various fires - Fuel, Oil, Electrical and
Exhaust Leaks. The loss of Shannon Knoeflein in his "Plastic" plane,
returning home from OSH and his pilot decisions which led to the Accident
Report would make for a valued and timely public discussion. Dave McNeil
could add input in his plumbed suppression system to buy critical seconds.
Too many builders do not reflect on where, when and what kind of
annunciation they are likely to get. Nylon loses its fastening properties
far too low of a temperature (IMHO having recycled plastics for a living in
a previous life). From the moment the determination is made, the
fiberglass is rated in seconds .... maybe a few minutes before failure.
Anyone want to reflect on the fuel line (inside the cockpit) issue a few
years ago.
Temperature - Oxygen - a Combustable fuel source. The drill is pretty
simple.
Still remember the first Corvette I saw converted back in 1966.
John Cox - 40600
On Tue, Jun 17, 2014 at 1:46 PM, Ben Westfall <rv10@sinkrate.com> wrote:
>
> Kelly and Ron thanks for the education it is much appreciated. Now I have
> one less thing to continually second guess myself on about my build!
>
> -Ben
>
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com
> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Kelly McMullen
> Sent: Tuesday, June 17, 2014 12:42 PM
> To: rv10-list@matronics.com
> Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Firewall Penetrations
>
>
> Especially when you consider that even if the nylock melted, it is ONLY to
> prevent the nut from vibrating loose. Under short term engine fire
> conditions the nut is unlikely to back off for the few minutes you need to
> get the plane on the ground.
> I only worry about all metal lock nuts for items in direct contact with
> heat
> over 200 degrees...exhaust components, etc.
> The all metal locknuts Van's supplies are the worst possible choice.
> They are so small that even a 3/8 socket is too big, they have almost no
> surface contact at all. AN 363s are much nicer.
>
>
Message 13
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[quote="cjay"]
Bob Turner wrote:
>
>
> ok thanks, two new questions.
>
> 1. If the engine stopped for benign reasons, e.g., fuel depletion in one tank,
and you switched tanks, won't the wind resistance on the prop jump start the
engine? and if so, is it better to have the prop in max setting or min setting
for this?
>
> 2. Why does open throttle reduce drag?
1. If you run a tank dry, the mechanical fuel pump, which does not pump air well,
won't help much, so RPM doesn't really matter. You'll need the boost pump.
2. Windmilling engine is expending energy pumping air, like a vacuum cleaner. Opening
the throttle removes a restriction, raises MP, engine doesn't do as much
work.
--------
Bob Turner
RV-10 QB
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=425062#425062
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