RV10-List Digest Archive

Fri 08/29/14


Total Messages Posted: 25



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 03:47 AM - Undercarriage (Rodger Todd)
     2. 05:15 AM - Re: Trim servo question (johngoodman)
     3. 05:58 AM - Re: Undercarriage (rv10flyer)
     4. 08:28 AM - Re: Trim servo question (bob88)
     5. 08:31 AM - Conduit in the wing (bob88)
     6. 08:40 AM - Re: Conduit in the wing (Pascal)
     7. 10:46 AM - SB 2014-08-29 (Rodger Todd)
     8. 11:27 AM - Re: Re: Trim servo question (Linn Walters)
     9. 11:42 AM - Re: Conduit in the wing (johngoodman)
    10. 12:23 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Tim Olson)
    11. 12:29 PM - Re: Re: Undercarriage (Michael Kraus)
    12. 01:43 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Linn Walters)
    13. 02:15 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Pascal)
    14. 02:56 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Tim Olson)
    15. 03:26 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Kelly McMullen)
    16. 03:50 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Alan Mekler MD)
    17. 04:03 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Tim Olson)
    18. 04:13 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Kelly McMullen)
    19. 04:15 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (William Greenley)
    20. 04:44 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Alan Mekler MD)
    21. 04:58 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Tim Olson)
    22. 05:27 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Bob Leffler)
    23. 06:11 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Rob Kochman)
    24. 07:25 PM - Leaking Tank Blues (kearney)
    25. 08:15 PM - Re: Leaking Tank Blues (Kelly McMullen)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 03:47:31 AM PST US
    From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
    Subject: Undercarriage
    Hi Folks,=0A=0AIf you haven't seen this on Vansairforce.net I strongly sugg est you read http://www.vansairforce.com/community/showthread.php?t=11617 1=0A=0AWhat Dave Brown has reported is greatly worrying.=0A=0ABest wishes t o all,=0A=0ARodger


    Message 2


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    Time: 05:15:30 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Trim servo question
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    bob88 wrote: > I think you are right. The mounting kit from Garmin is right wing specific but the Ray Allen servo kit from Vans appears to be ambidextrous...so both in right wing seems the correct thing to do. As a lefty, I wish I was ambidextrous; it would have made my life much easier [Wink] This actually brings up a point - is it necessary for the autopilot to trim the ailerons? i agree that it's necessary for pitch trim, but not so much, when it comes to lateral control. John -------- #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429570#429570


    Message 3


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    Time: 05:58:15 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Undercarriage
    From: "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com>
    I guess flying at the aft CG limit with the family 90% of the time and being #486 in the air has some other benefits. We fly off of grass once or twice per year, but will definitely keep an eye on it. -------- Wayne G. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429574#429574


    Message 4


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    Time: 08:28:57 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Trim servo question
    From: "bob88" <marty.crooks@comcast.net>
    I think the autopilot needs to have both roll and pitch authority; as far as the trim function goes, this is the way Garmin has set up their GSA 28 smart servo (power to the Ray Allen trim goes through the Garmin unit). Let me know if I am misunderstanding this. Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429583#429583


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:31:59 AM PST US
    Subject: Conduit in the wing
    From: "bob88" <marty.crooks@comcast.net>
    Here's a question about running the conduit in the wing. A straight through run is OK for the Nav/Strobe/Landing lights but what about interruptions along the way for pitot heat and trim/autopilot servos? Is there a way to branch wires out of the conduit along the way? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429584#429584


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:40:16 AM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer@live.com>
    Subject: Re: Conduit in the wing
    Some advice Jesse gave me was run the conduit to the access panel and leave a gap for access to the wires via the panel, when needed. than pickup the conduit again to the next panel. I installed all the conduit through the wing than cut the areas where the panels were. Pascal -----Original Message----- From: bob88 Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 8:31 AM Subject: RV10-List: Conduit in the wing Here's a question about running the conduit in the wing. A straight through run is OK for the Nav/Strobe/Landing lights but what about interruptions along the way for pitot heat and trim/autopilot servos? Is there a way to branch wires out of the conduit along the way? Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429584#429584


    Message 7


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    Time: 10:46:49 AM PST US
    From: Rodger Todd <rj_todd@yahoo.co.uk>
    Subject: SB 2014-08-29
    Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf=0A =0ARodger=0A


    Message 8


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    Time: 11:27:55 AM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: Trim servo question
    Just thinking out loud .... Wouldn't the aileron autopilot servo be using the trim servo to lessen the forces required to hold the aileron in position? After all, that's what a trim tab does ..... Linn On 8/29/2014 11:28 AM, bob88 wrote: > > I think the autopilot needs to have both roll and pitch authority; as far as the trim function goes, this is the way Garmin has set up their GSA 28 smart servo (power to the Ray Allen trim goes through the Garmin unit). Let me know if I am misunderstanding this. > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429583#429583 > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 9


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    Time: 11:42:01 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: Conduit in the wing
    From: "johngoodman" <johngoodman@earthlink.net>
    I just put a slit in the convoluted conduit to get the wires out. A little heat shrink for rubbing issues. John -------- #40572 Phase One complete in 2011 Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429592#429592


    Message 10


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    Time: 12:23:45 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on the engine mount. For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that plate from spinning. I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which fix I need to perform. Tim On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: > Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf > > Rodger >


    Message 11


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    Time: 12:29:26 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Undercarriage
    From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
    This should be interesting and very appropriately timed for me.... I am starting my condition inspection this weekend and I fly exclusively off of grass.... But so far I only have ~180 hours... -Mike Kraus Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 29, 2014, at 8:57 AM, "rv10flyer" <wayne.gillispie@gmail.com> wrote: > > > I guess flying at the aft CG limit with the family 90% of the time and being #486 in the air has some other benefits. We fly off of grass once or twice per year, but will definitely keep an eye on it. > > -------- > Wayne G. > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429574#429574 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 01:43:48 PM PST US
    From: Linn Walters <flying-nut@cfl.rr.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    IMHO, if it can spin then there aren't enough U-1002 washers installed ...... too little tension on the donuts. I'm curious about the potential for the plate wearing on the tubing too. Maybe some silicone rubber would help??? IMHO, the problem that Vic has experienced is due to two things ..... the age and compression of the donuts and the fact that he flies off a grass field. IMHO, I suspect that there was pounding of the donuts against the receptacle. Vic doesn't say how many washers he had installed .... only that they were tight, and the picture looks like there may be room for three washers. How tight is tight? The SB says a max of three U-1002 washers. The reason there are so many IMHOs is that I haven't completed installing the U-1002 washers .... I'm not flying yet .... the plans say one washer on a new install is fine and an additional one as the donuts compress. At lunch today my non-flying -10 builder buddy said he installed two outright ..... and it was a bear. Maybe one U-1002 isn't enough? So, I ask .... how many U-1002 washers did you get installed initially? More than one? Linn .... almost done with windshield fairing On 8/29/2014 3:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect > mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... > > If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they > don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in > place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't > secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when > it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't > necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on > the engine mount. > > For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? > If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding > glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that > plate from spinning. > > I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which > fix I need to perform. > > > Tim > > On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >> >> Rodger >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 13


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    Time: 02:15:43 PM PST US
    From: "Pascal" <rv10flyer@live.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    1 isolator at building, let it sit while your building and for the first 10 hours of flying, assuming that means about 10 landings, at that point, since you're checking the plane after every flight anyway, check and possibly add the 2nd isolator. At every annual I check the clearance, but at this point 2 seems to be enough as 3 is too hard to force on. Simply put the abuse of soft field is too much for the way the original mounts were built after 1000 hours. For someone that has no idea what a soft field landing is, other than the practice I did on hard runways, feels like ;-) I doubt there is an issue for me over the long run. Tim; I gathered from the figure 1 that the plate sits with the four corners held in place by the arms, so unless there is a huge gap they really should not move much. Rubbing on the arms is indeed a concern I agree with you on. I would probably use rtv on all four notched areas and for good measure maybe even n the plates themselves to diminish vibration should there be any looseness. Glue would probably be better, and worth a question to Vans on that need, when ordering the plates. As always, I'll await your report on how things look for you. Pascal -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 1:42 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 IMHO, if it can spin then there aren't enough U-1002 washers installed ...... too little tension on the donuts. I'm curious about the potential for the plate wearing on the tubing too. Maybe some silicone rubber would help??? IMHO, the problem that Vic has experienced is due to two things ..... the age and compression of the donuts and the fact that he flies off a grass field. IMHO, I suspect that there was pounding of the donuts against the receptacle. Vic doesn't say how many washers he had installed .... only that they were tight, and the picture looks like there may be room for three washers. How tight is tight? The SB says a max of three U-1002 washers. The reason there are so many IMHOs is that I haven't completed installing the U-1002 washers .... I'm not flying yet .... the plans say one washer on a new install is fine and an additional one as the donuts compress. At lunch today my non-flying -10 builder buddy said he installed two outright ..... and it was a bear. Maybe one U-1002 isn't enough? So, I ask .... how many U-1002 washers did you get installed initially? More than one? Linn .... almost done with windshield fairing On 8/29/2014 3:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > > I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect > mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... > > If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they > don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in > place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't > secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when > it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily > line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on > the engine mount. > > For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? > If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding > glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that > plate from spinning. > > I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which > fix I need to perform. > > > Tim > > On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >> >> Rodger >> > > > ----- > No virus found in this message. > Checked by AVG - www.avg.com > >


    Message 14


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    Time: 02:56:53 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Pascal, I think you mean 1 spacer washer....you'll always want all of the isolators (elastomer). Ok, here is my data point. I'm currently at the hangar, and have the gear dropped. Took the time to send this before it's even completed... I have just shy of 1070 hours. I have been on grass for some landings, but, probably only about 50 I'd guess...nothing too drastic. I have no cracks that I can see, unless they're hidden by paint. But it all seems to look ok to me. Of course, we know that it IS NOT ok, because some day there could be a problem, and I should definitely do the doubler. I also think I'll ask Van's about it when I order it, but I think I'll throw some E6000 glue, just a thin coating, on the doubler...just something to keep it from shifting. I definitely don't like the idea of anything rubbing on the mount tubes. That said, I ALSO never liked, and I mean from day 1, that the metal rings from the elastomers hit those tubes. Yes, mine did from day 1. I saw them bend. They are still bent. And they are still rubbing on the tubes. I am going to grind the areas that bent so that they no longer contact the tubes. I personally think (but you may want to ask more expert opinions) that when building you should take the time to grind a relief so that the rings never touch the tubes. Now for the part that will make people think I'm full of it. I am almost sure that when I first assembled the gear, I put 2 spacer rings on. I remember someone asking me a couple years ago how many I added. At that time I even ordered extra because I didn't even know where I put my extras from the initial build. I have never added any, as far as I can remember. Now, to get my top hat cap off the gear I actually had to reconnect the bottom bolt temporarily and push up hard on the wheel with a lever, to release tension on the bolt so I could pull it out. I don't know how much tension there was exactly, but I had no extra gap between the elastomer metal rings and the base of the mount. And this is with over 1000 hours, and 8 years. My elastomers actually look to be in pretty good shape too. Yeah, I'm shocked too that I 've never had to add any spacers, and still have tension, but I have checked every annual just for play and never had any, so I've never disassembled this area before...ever. I'm very glad for Vic and others who have, because if I hadn't have known from them, I wouldn't have even looked. (I'm betting if Vic hadn't seen the crack from above he wouldn't have either.) So, I guess I now reassemble and order the doubler, then take it apart in a couple weeks again. At least I now know how long to expect it to take. I should note that I am not a very bad lander....no, not bragging because it's not me, but the plane that makes it that way. I almost always land with the nosewheel off, and when I roll out I keep the nose up as long as I can. Heck, if I have a 5000' taxi to do on the runway, I usually add power and taxi with the nose off the ground, just to save the wear and tear. So maybe this has helped. I snapped a couple of pictures, but I'm too messy to send them right now. If someone thinks they're relevant though, I can email to the list. Tim On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 4:15 PM, Pascal <rv10flyer@live.com> wrote: > > 1 isolator at building, let it sit while your building and for the first > 10 hours of flying, assuming that means about 10 landings, at that point, > since you're checking the plane after every flight anyway, check and > possibly add the 2nd isolator. At every annual I check the clearance, but > at this point 2 seems to be enough as 3 is too hard to force on. > > Simply put the abuse of soft field is too much for the way the original > mounts were built after 1000 hours. For someone that has no idea what a > soft field landing is, other than the practice I did on hard runways, feels > like ;-) I doubt there is an issue for me over the long run. > > Tim; > I gathered from the figure 1 that the plate sits with the four corners > held in place by the arms, so unless there is a huge gap they really should > not move much. Rubbing on the arms is indeed a concern I agree with you on. > I would probably use rtv on all four notched areas and for good measure > maybe even n the plates themselves to diminish vibration should there be > any looseness. Glue would probably be better, and worth a question to Vans > on that need, when ordering the plates. > > As always, I'll await your report on how things look for you. > > Pascal > > -----Original Message----- From: Linn Walters > Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 1:42 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 > > > > IMHO, if it can spin then there aren't enough U-1002 washers installed > ...... too little tension on the donuts. I'm curious about the > potential for the plate wearing on the tubing too. Maybe some silicone > rubber would help??? > > IMHO, the problem that Vic has experienced is due to two things ..... > the age and compression of the donuts and the fact that he flies off a > grass field. IMHO, I suspect that there was pounding of the donuts > against the receptacle. Vic doesn't say how many washers he had > installed .... only that they were tight, and the picture looks like > there may be room for three washers. How tight is tight? The SB says a > max of three U-1002 washers. > > The reason there are so many IMHOs is that I haven't completed > installing the U-1002 washers .... I'm not flying yet .... the plans say > one washer on a new install is fine and an additional one as the donuts > compress. At lunch today my non-flying -10 builder buddy said he > installed two outright ..... and it was a bear. Maybe one U-1002 isn't > enough? So, I ask .... how many U-1002 washers did you get installed > initially? More than one? > Linn .... almost done with windshield fairing > > On 8/29/2014 3:23 PM, Tim Olson wrote: > >> >> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect >> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... >> >> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they >> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in >> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't >> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when >> it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily >> line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on >> the engine mount. >> >> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? >> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding >> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that >> plate from spinning. >> >> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which >> fix I need to perform. >> >> >> Tim >> >> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >> >>> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >>> >>> Rodger >>> >>> >> >> >> >> >> >> ----- >> No virus found in this message. >> Checked by AVG - www.avg.com >> >> >> > >


    Message 15


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    Time: 03:26:54 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    Well, For those that are not aware, the Mooney M20 series of planes use exactly the same part number shock disk. On the early, lower gross wt models the shock disks are good for about 12 years, but many continue to meet the tension specs for over 20 years, but do get harder, providing less cushioning. On later, higher gross wt models the disks may last only 5-8 yrs before they are too compressed. The RV-10 empty wt matches the models that use the O-36-/IO-360 engines at around 1600-1700 lbs, and has gross wt of 2575 lbs. So, depending on climate and exposure to ozone, I would expect the RV-10 shock disks to last 15 yrs, give or take a few, and if tension is lost anywhere past the 10 yr mark I would think about replacing them. The ouch part is that they now cost over $100 per shock disk from most suppliers. I have heard as low as maybe $90 but most are charging $100+ I'm not really looking forward to doing the SB as I am very close to finishing firewall forward work. On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 2:56 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@myrv10.com> wrote: > > I don't know how much tension there was exactly, but I had no extra gap > between the elastomer metal rings and the base of the mount. And this is > with over 1000 hours, and 8 years. My elastomers actually look to be in > pretty good shape too. Yeah, I'm shocked too that I 've never had to add > any spacers, and still have tension, but I have checked every annual just > for play and never had any, so I've never disassembled this area > before...ever. I'm very glad for Vic and others who have, because if I > hadn't have known from them, I wouldn't have even looked. (I'm betting if > Vic hadn't seen the crack from above he wouldn't have either.) > > So, I guess I now reassemble and order the doubler, then take it apart in > a couple weeks again. > At least I now know how long to expect it to take. > >


    Message 16


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    Time: 03:50:24 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net>
    Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P? Alan N668G 300 hrs Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > > > I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect > mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... > > If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they > don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in > place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't > secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when > it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on > the engine mount. > > For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? > If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding > glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that > plate from spinning. > > I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which > fix I need to perform. > > > Tim > >> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >> >> Rodger > > > >


    Message 17


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    Time: 04:03:52 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    Probably 2 hours for the first session to see if you have cracks. Then if you have no cracks probably another 2 or 3 to actually fix it up. But you either have to leave it with them disassembled after you inspect it, or do it twice and wait on the proper set of parts. Tim > On Aug 29, 2014, at 5:49 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote: > > > Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P? > Alan > N668G > 300 hrs > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: >> >> >> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect >> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... >> >> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they >> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in >> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't >> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when >> it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on >> the engine mount. >> >> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? >> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding >> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that >> plate from spinning. >> >> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which >> fix I need to perform. >> >> >> Tim >> >>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >>> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >>> >>> Rodger > > > > >


    Message 18


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    Time: 04:13:55 PM PST US
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    Suggest you obtain parts, assuming no cracks, then anyone you trust, licensed mechanic or not can actually do the work. The only requirement for a licensed A&P is to do the condition inspection. You don't even need A&P to correct whatever discrepancies the A&P finds. If you prefer to use licensed mechanic to do the SB, by all means, no criticism, just pointing out there is no regulatory requirement for the certificate beyond than one inspection/yr. On 8/29/2014 3:49 PM, Alan Mekler MD wrote: > > Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P? > Alan > N668G > 300 hrs > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: >> >> >> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect >> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... >> >> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they >> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in >> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't >> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when >> it spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on >> the engine mount. >> >> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? >> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding >> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that >> plate from spinning. >> >> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which >> fix I need to perform. >> >> >> Tim >> >>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >>> Vans reacts quickly - see http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >>> >>> Rodger >> >> >> > >


    Message 19


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    Time: 04:15:21 PM PST US
    From: "William Greenley" <wgreenley@gmail.com>
    Subject: SB 2014-08-29
    You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional inspection. Bill Greenley -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 6:50 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb will take my A+P? Alan N668G 300 hrs Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > > > I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect > mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... > > If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they > don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in > place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't > secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when it > spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily > line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on the engine mount. > > For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? > If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding glue or JB > weld or something would be warranted to keep that plate from spinning. > > I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which fix I > need to perform. > > > Tim > >> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >> Vans reacts quickly - see >> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >> >> Rodger > > > >


    Message 20


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    Time: 04:44:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net>
    Yes i understand Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed. Is this being provided by Vans at no cost? Alan Sent from my iPhone > On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley@gmail.com> wrote: > > > You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional > inspection. > Bill Greenley > > -----Original Message----- > From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD > Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 6:50 PM > To: rv10-list@matronics.com > Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 > > > Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb > will take my A+P? > Alan > N668G > 300 hrs > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: >> >> >> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect >> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... >> >> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they >> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in >> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't >> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when it >> spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily >> line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on the engine mount. >> >> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? >> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding glue or JB >> weld or something would be warranted to keep that plate from spinning. >> >> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which fix I >> need to perform. >> >> >> Tim >> >>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >>> Vans reacts quickly - see >>> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >>> >>> Rodger > > > > > > > > >


    Message 21


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    Time: 04:58:53 PM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    I believe the parts are provided free. Tim > On Aug 29, 2014, at 6:43 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote: > > > Yes i understand > Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed. > Is this being provided by Vans at no cost? > Alan > > Sent from my iPhone > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley@gmail.com> wrote: >> >> >> You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional >> inspection. >> Bill Greenley >> >> -----Original Message----- >> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD >> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 6:50 PM >> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 >> >> >> Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb >> will take my A+P? >> Alan >> N668G >> 300 hrs >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect >>> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... >>> >>> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they >>> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in >>> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't >>> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when it >>> spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily >>> line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on the engine mount. >>> >>> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? >>> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding glue or JB >>> weld or something would be warranted to keep that plate from spinning. >>> >>> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which fix I >>> need to perform. >>> >>> >>> Tim >>> >>>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >>>> Vans reacts quickly - see >>>> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >>>> >>>> Rodger >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> >> > > > > >


    Message 22


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    Time: 05:27:25 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com>
    Yep. I ordered mine this afternoon. Bob Sent from my iPad > On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > > > I believe the parts are provided free. > Tim > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 6:43 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> wrote: >> >> >> Yes i understand >> Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed. >> Is this being provided by Vans at no cost? >> Alan >> >> Sent from my iPhone >> >>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley@gmail.com> wrote: >>> >>> >>> You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual conditional >>> inspection. >>> Bill Greenley >>> >>> -----Original Message----- >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan Mekler MD >>> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 6:50 PM >>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 >>> >>> >>> Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours this sb >>> will take my A+P? >>> Alan >>> N668G >>> 300 hrs >>> >>> Sent from my iPhone >>> >>>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: >>>> >>>> >>>> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect >>>> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... >>>> >>>> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they >>>> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in >>>> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't >>>> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when it >>>> spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily >>>> line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on the engine mount. >>>> >>>> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? >>>> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding glue or JB >>>> weld or something would be warranted to keep that plate from spinning. >>>> >>>> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which fix I >>>> need to perform. >>>> >>>> >>>> Tim >>>> >>>>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: >>>>> Vans reacts quickly - see >>>>> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf >>>>> >>>>> Rodger > > > > >


    Message 23


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    Time: 06:11:13 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Rob Kochman <rv10rob@gmail.com>
    I also ordered mine today. They asked if I found a crack, and I said "I don't know, but I doubt it since I have less than 300 hours and have never operated off grass." They took that as "no cracks" and took my order. I will of course be letting them know if I do indeed find a crack. -Rob On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 5:26 PM, Bob Leffler <rv@thelefflers.com> wrote: > > Yep. I ordered mine this afternoon. > > Bob > > Sent from my iPad > > > On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:58 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > > > > > > I believe the parts are provided free. > > Tim > > > >> On Aug 29, 2014, at 6:43 PM, Alan Mekler MD <amekler@metrocast.net> > wrote: > >> > >> > >> Yes i understand > >> Assuming no cracks the doubler needs to be installed. > >> Is this being provided by Vans at no cost? > >> Alan > >> > >> Sent from my iPhone > >> > >>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 7:14 PM, "William Greenley" <wgreenley@gmail.com> > wrote: > >>> > wgreenley@gmail.com> > >>> > >>> You can still do the SB, you only need the A&P for the annual > conditional > >>> inspection. > >>> Bill Greenley > >>> > >>> -----Original Message----- > >>> From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > >>> [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Alan > Mekler MD > >>> Sent: Friday, August 29, 2014 6:50 PM > >>> To: rv10-list@matronics.com > >>> Subject: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 > >>> > > > >>> > >>> Since I am not the builder of my rv10 any idea about how many hours > this sb > >>> will take my A+P? > >>> Alan > >>> N668G > >>> 300 hrs > >>> > >>> Sent from my iPhone > >>> > >>>> On Aug 29, 2014, at 3:23 PM, Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com> wrote: > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> I'm glad they came out with the SB. Just today I was going to inspect > >>>> mine. What leaves me scratching my head is this... > >>>> > >>>> If you don't have cracks, and you do install the doubler plate, they > >>>> don't specify any type of bonding agent to hold that doubler plate in > >>>> place to the plate above it. It seems to me that if this thing isn't > >>>> secured in at least some way, it may be very prone to spin and when it > >>>> spins, the notched areas for the engine mount tubes won't necessarily > >>>> line up and you could get this doubler plate wearing on the engine > mount. > >>>> > >>>> For someone who's had theirs apart, does this seem correct? > >>>> If so, I'd think perhaps some sort of very strong bonding glue or JB > >>>> weld or something would be warranted to keep that plate from spinning. > >>>> > >>>> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which fix I > >>>> need to perform. > >>>> > >>>> > >>>> Tim > >>>> > >>>>> On 8/29/2014 12:38 PM, Rodger Todd wrote: > >>>>> Vans reacts quickly - see > >>>>> http://www.vansaircraft.com/pdf/sb14-8-29.pdf > >>>>> > >>>>> Rodger > > > > > > > > > > > > -- Rob Kochman RV-10 Flying since March 2011 Woodinville, WA http://kochman.net/N819K


    Message 24


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    Time: 07:25:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Leaking Tank Blues
    From: "kearney" <kearney@shaw.ca>
    Hi For the past year or so I have been fighting a weeping tank rivet on the top my QB tanks. I tried loctite but that didn't work at all. Anyway, now that my wings are off for paint, I tried introducing proseal through the fuel sender hole. After some discussion with a local A&P, I decided to drill out the rivet and replace it with a Cherry Max. Fortunately the wing was inverted on a table so I was able to use a vaccuum to draw out most chips as I drilled out the rivet. Next I opened the hole and hand countersunk it. My concerns were that there would be a few small chips inside the tank as well the rivet might not completely seal even when coated in proseal. To deal with this, I introduced a couple of a small amount of proseal into the hole with a small syringe. I then installed a cherry max rivet that was completely coated in proseal. A quick check today indicates the leak is gone! Cheers Les Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429620#429620


    Message 25


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    Time: 08:15:31 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Leaking Tank Blues
    From: Kelly McMullen <apilot2@gmail.com>
    I would have thought the gas would be greener on the other side of the border. 8^) On Fri, Aug 29, 2014 at 7:23 PM, kearney <kearney@shaw.ca> wrote: > > Hi > > For the past year or so I have been fighting a weeping tank rivet on the > top my QB tanks. I tried loctite but that didn't work at all. > > Anyway, now that my wings are off for paint, I tried introducing proseal > through the fuel sender hole. > > After some discussion with a local A&P, I decided to drill out the rivet > and replace it with a Cherry Max. Fortunately the wing was inverted on a > table so I was able to use a vaccuum to draw out most chips as I drilled > out the rivet. Next I opened the hole and hand countersunk it. > > My concerns were that there would be a few small chips inside the tank as > well the rivet might not completely seal even when coated in proseal. To > deal with this, I introduced a couple of a small amount of proseal into the > hole with a small syringe. I then installed a cherry max rivet that was > completely coated in proseal. > > A quick check today indicates the leak is gone! > > Cheers > > Les > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429620#429620 > >




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