RV10-List Digest Archive

Wed 09/03/14


Total Messages Posted: 12



Today's Message Index:
----------------------
 
     1. 06:53 AM - Re: RV-10 Paint Quantity (Carl Froehlich)
     2. 07:05 AM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Werner Schneider)
     3. 07:46 AM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Tim Olson)
     4. 07:47 AM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Michael Kraus)
     5. 08:27 AM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Werner Schneider)
     6. 08:47 AM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Carlos Trigo)
     7. 09:07 AM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Kelly McMullen)
     8. 01:40 PM - Re: SB 2014-08-29 (Werner Schneider)
     9. 05:26 PM - Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle (Sean Stephens)
    10. 05:58 PM - Re: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle (Justin Jones)
    11. 07:37 PM - Re: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle (Phillip Perry)
    12. 10:55 PM - Re: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle (Gordon)
 
 
 


Message 1


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    Time: 06:53:49 AM PST US
    From: "Carl Froehlich" <carl.froehlich@verizon.net>
    Subject: RV-10 Paint Quantity
    Linn, There are a lot of ways to do this. This example uses a coil of 3/8=94 aluminum tubing from Aircraft Spruce and some standard fittings. The coil shape is maintained by three pieces of wood and tie wraps. The air goes in at the top (red hose). The coil ends at a PVC =93T=94 fitting. The opposite side of the =93T=94 fitting connects via PVC fittings, out a hole in the side of the tub and to the brass drain valve. The top of the =93T=94 fitting goes up out of the water where you see the yellow air out hose connected. I also ran the out hose 6 feet or so vertically so any condensed but still entrained water would drain back down into the PVC pipe. I blew the water out of the tub every hour or so. I made some ice blocks from gallon milk jugs and floated about four of them in the water while painting. When not in use empty the tube as the aluminum coil will corrode if left in water. This water separator was the third in line from my compressor. The first is a 10=92 up run of =BD=94 copper pipe, then a standard air filter, then this. Without this finally water separator I got water at the paint gun. With it I was always dry. Have fun. After painting an RV-10 you will find out why commercial paint shops get so much money for a paint job. Carl From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of Linn Walters Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 10:27 PM Subject: Re: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Quantity Thanks for the data Carl! More questions on the water separator ...... which is air in and out? Describe the stuff at the bottom of the vertical pipe .... and the drain valve ... that's hidden by the tub. Linn On 9/2/2014 9:38 PM, Carl Froehlich wrote: PPG base/clear coat is very high quality and forgiving to the amateur painter (like me). I did two planes with this and will do the next one the same. The first plane is now 10 years after painting and still looks like the day it came out of the paint booth. For the RV-10, start with a gallon of PPG DP-40LF primer but you will most likely need another two quarts. Assuming you will do a primary, secondary and then some accents in another color, start with a gallon of primary color, two or three quarts of secondary and one quart of the accent color (get more as needed). You will need two gallons of clear. You will need about four gallons of PPG reducer (get the right one for the temperature that you will be painting). Plan on ~$2500 for materials. I am just 4 miles from a PPG distributor. If you have to order and such then get more to start. Use PPG Alumi Prep with ScotchBrite pads, one good coat of primer, two coats of color, two coats of clear. If you are using a tri coat (like a lot of metallic reds or pearl yellows) do two coats of base, two coats of pearl (or candy) and then two coats of clear. Follow the times listed with the product for flash, recoat, tape and top coat exactly. Paint with the wings, empennage, ailerons, flaps, doors and cowl off. The RV-10 is so big your arm will get tired so be prepared. Paint the wings first as they are the easiest so you get the hang of it. Prep, prime, color and top coat the wings in one weekend, the cowl and doors the next, then empennage and control surfaces, and the fuselage last (the hardest part as it is so big and you get to spend a lot of time on your back). Attached is a homemade air/water separator that did a very nice job for me. Note the water drain valve. Fill the tub with water and ice. Carl -----Original Message----- From: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] On Behalf Of fdombroski Sent: Tuesday, September 02, 2014 5:43 PM Subject: RV10-List: RV-10 Paint Quantity <mailto:f.dombroski@yahoo.com> <f.dombroski@yahoo.com> I am ordering paint for the RV-10. Does anyone that used PPG Deltron 2000 know the paint quantity required for the base color and clear coat? Also the quantity of Epoxy Primer needed? Many Thanks, Frank -------- Frank Dombroski RV-10 2.0 N46VT soon to be flying KSMQ Somerset Airport NJ Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=429872#429872 ----- No virus found in this message. Checked by AVG - www.avg.com


    Message 2


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    Time: 07:05:48 AM PST US
    From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    On 29.08.2014 21:23, Tim Olson wrote: > > ........ > glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that > plate from spinning. > > I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which > fix I need to perform. > Hi Tim, what is the outcome of your investigation? And did you talk with Van's about "glueing" the new plate to the mount? Cheers Werner


    Message 3


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    Time: 07:46:43 AM PST US
    From: Tim Olson <Tim@MyRV10.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    Hi, I posted it that same day. The Van's tech team guys were just talking about it when I called. They agree that it should probably be prevented from moving. Either by welding it along the edge, or by proseal or similar to bond it in place. Tim On 9/3/2014 9:05 AM, Werner Schneider wrote: > > > On 29.08.2014 21:23, Tim Olson wrote: >> >> ........ >> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that >> plate from spinning. >> >> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which >> fix I need to perform. >> > Hi Tim, > > what is the outcome of your investigation? And did you talk with Van's > about "glueing" the new plate to the mount? > > Cheers Werner >


    Message 4


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    Time: 07:47:02 AM PST US
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    From: Michael Kraus <n223rv@wolflakeairport.net>
    Data point.... 180 hours exclusively off of grass. No cracks. Sent from my iPhone > On Sep 3, 2014, at 10:05 AM, Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net> wrote: > > > >> On 29.08.2014 21:23, Tim Olson wrote: >> >> ........ >> glue or JB weld or something would be warranted to keep that >> plate from spinning. >> >> I guess I'll know more after I have mine apart and see which >> fix I need to perform. > Hi Tim, > > what is the outcome of your investigation? And did you talk with Van's about "glueing" the new plate to the mount? > > Cheers Werner > > > >


    Message 5


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    Time: 08:27:31 AM PST US
    From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    Thanks for the update on that Tim, I've not seen that posting strange but I know now. I guess there will then be an SB update on that. Cheers Werner On 03.09.2014 16:46, Tim Olson wrote: > > Hi, > I posted it that same day. The Van's tech team > .......... > > Tim > >


    Message 6


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    Time: 08:47:19 AM PST US
    From: "Carlos Trigo" <trigo@mail.telepac.pt>
    Subject: SB 2014-08-29
    Hello Werner If you decide to order the parts for this SB, count with1 set for me. Regards Carlos -----Mensagem original----- De: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Werner Schneider Enviada: 3 de setembro de 2014 16:27 Para: rv10-list@matronics.com Assunto: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 <mailto:glastar@gmx.net> glastar@gmx.net> Thanks for the update on that Tim, I've not seen that posting strange but I know now. I guess there will then be an SB update on that. Cheers Werner On 03.09.2014 16:46, Tim Olson wrote: Tim@myrv10.com> > > Hi, > I posted it that same day. The Van's tech team .......... > > Tim > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List http://www.matronics.com/contribution


    Message 7


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    Time: 09:07:26 AM PST US
    From: Kelly McMullen <kellym@aviating.com>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    I sent email request to Van's support late Friday and had reply yesterday morning. Parts are being supplied free. Just contact them with your builder number. On 9/3/2014 8:45 AM, Carlos Trigo wrote: > > Hello Werner > > If you decide to order the parts for this SB, count with1 set for me. > > Regards > > Carlos > > -----Mensagem original----- > De: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Werner Schneider > Enviada: 3 de setembro de 2014 16:27 > Para: rv10-list@matronics.com > Assunto: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 > > <mailto:glastar@gmx.net>> > > Thanks for the update on that Tim, I've not seen that posting strange > but I know now. > > I guess there will then be an SB update on that. > > Cheers Werner > > On 03.09.2014 16:46, Tim Olson wrote: > > <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> > > > > > > Hi, > > > I posted it that same day. The Van's tech team .......... > > > > > > Tim > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > http://forums.matronics.com > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > *


    Message 8


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    Time: 01:40:25 PM PST US
    From: Werner Schneider <glastar@gmx.net>
    Subject: Re: SB 2014-08-29
    Hello Carlos, I'm afraid to late Michael did order for all 4 Swiss (at least what we've discussed) but it's easy, you call Van's have your serial handy and tell the status of your engine mount. Are you in Bracciano for the EFLEVA meeting? Cheers Werner do not archive On 03.09.2014 17:45, Carlos Trigo wrote: > Hello Werner > > If you decide to order the parts for this SB, count with1 set for me. > > Regards > > Carlos > > -----Mensagem original----- > De: owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com > [mailto:owner-rv10-list-server@matronics.com] Em nome de Werner Schneider > Enviada: 3 de setembro de 2014 16:27 > Para: rv10-list@matronics.com > Assunto: Re: RV10-List: SB 2014-08-29 > > <mailto:glastar@gmx.net>> > > Thanks for the update on that Tim, I've not seen that posting strange > but I know now. > > I guess there will then be an SB update on that. > > Cheers Werner > > On 03.09.2014 16:46, Tim Olson wrote: > > <mailto:Tim@myrv10.com>> > > > > > > Hi, > > > I posted it that same day. The Van's tech team .......... > > > > > > Tim > > > > > > > > http://www.matronics.com/Navigator?RV10-List > > http://forums.matronics.com > > http://www.matronics.com/contribution > > * > > > * >


    Message 9


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    Time: 05:26:31 PM PST US
    From: Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com>
    Subject: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle
    I am experiencing a "knocking" which sounds kinda like metal on metal in the top right lord mount when the engine is at full idle (~750 RPM) or right at shutdown when the vibration is the most. I took the lord mount off and inspected, but all looks right. Well, there does seem to be a very minute amount of play with the lord mount inside the ears. Took me a while to isolate it to the top right mount, but finally arrived there with and extra pair of hands. Has anyone experienced anything similar to this with their lord mounts? Not sure what is actually causing the knocking sound. One further note is that this knocking sound is not present at greater than idle and the engine is very smooth otherwise. Thanks, -Sean #40303


    Message 10


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    Time: 05:58:57 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle
    From: Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com>
    Was it loose at all when you removed it? There should be an insert in there that will rattle around when loose or cracked. On Sep 3, 2014, at 16:26, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote: > > I am experiencing a "knocking" which sounds kinda like metal on metal in the top right lord mount when the engine is at full idle (~750 RPM) or right at shutdown when the vibration is the most. I took the lord mount off and inspected, but all looks right. Well, there does seem to be a very minute amount of play with the lord mount inside the ears. > > Took me a while to isolate it to the top right mount, but finally arrived there with and extra pair of hands. > > Has anyone experienced anything similar to this with their lord mounts? Not sure what is actually causing the knocking sound. > > One further note is that this knocking sound is not present at greater than idle and the engine is very smooth otherwise. > > Thanks, > > -Sean #40303 > > > >


    Message 11


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    Time: 07:37:15 PM PST US
    Subject: Re: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle
    From: Phillip Perry <philperry9@gmail.com>
    I'd try a stethoscope with a long probe on it to isolate it first. They work very well with knocks and cost less than 10 bucks usually. You can find them in just about any parts store, sears, or harbor freight. You certainly want to know that it's not a lifter knocking with low oil pressure (idle or shutdown). But I'd isolate it for sure so I know 100% where it's coming from. Phil On Wed, Sep 3, 2014 at 7:57 PM, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com> wrote: > > Was it loose at all when you removed it? There should be an insert in > there that will rattle around when loose or cracked. > > > On Sep 3, 2014, at 16:26, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote: > > > > > I am experiencing a "knocking" which sounds kinda like metal on metal in > the top right lord mount when the engine is at full idle (~750 RPM) or > right at shutdown when the vibration is the most. I took the lord mount > off and inspected, but all looks right. Well, there does seem to be a very > minute amount of play with the lord mount inside the ears. > > > > Took me a while to isolate it to the top right mount, but finally > arrived there with and extra pair of hands. > > > > Has anyone experienced anything similar to this with their lord mounts? > Not sure what is actually causing the knocking sound. > > > > One further note is that this knocking sound is not present at greater > than idle and the engine is very smooth otherwise. > > > > Thanks, > > > > -Sean #40303 > > > > > > > > > >


    Message 12


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    Time: 10:55:58 PM PST US
    From: Gordon <mregoan@hispeed.ch>
    Subject: Re: Knocking In Lord Mount at Idle
    Hi Sean, If the mounts are old and sagged, or the assembly is off center, additional movement from shutdown vibration can cause the bolt sleeve to knock against the inside bore of the mounts. That should be a metal on rubber contact, but might cause the mount to tap on the bore in the ear giving a metal to metal contact. Good luck with the search. Gordon 41015 Switzerland On 04.09.2014, at 02:57, Justin Jones <jmjones2000@mindspring.com> wrote: > > Was it loose at all when you removed it? There should be an insert in there that will rattle around when loose or cracked. > > > > On Sep 3, 2014, at 16:26, Sean Stephens <sean@stephensville.com> wrote: > >> >> I am experiencing a "knocking" which sounds kinda like metal on metal in the top right lord mount when the engine is at full idle (~750 RPM) or right at shutdown when the vibration is the most. I took the lord mount off and inspected, but all looks right. Well, there does seem to be a very minute amount of play with the lord mount inside the ears. >> >> Took me a while to isolate it to the top right mount, but finally arrived there with and extra pair of hands. >> >> Has anyone experienced anything similar to this with their lord mounts? Not sure what is actually causing the knocking sound. >> >> One further note is that this knocking sound is not present at greater than idle and the engine is very smooth otherwise. >> >> Thanks, >> >> -Sean #40303 >> >> >> >> > > > > >




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