Today's Message Index:
----------------------
1. 05:07 AM - Exhaust clearances (rvdave)
2. 05:13 AM - Re: Advice on red cube install (Bill Watson)
3. 05:42 AM - Re: Exhaust clearances (Jesse Saint)
4. 08:30 AM - Re: Exhaust clearances (rvdave)
5. 08:53 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust clearances (Jae Chang)
6. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust clearances (Don McDonald)
7. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust clearances (Don McDonald)
Message 1
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| Subject: | Exhaust clearances |
Am installing Vetterman exhaust and wondering about clearances to cowling. Vans
plans show 5/8 min to firewall but don't see anything about cowl clearances.
From your experiences of tailpipe/heat/cowl relationship do I need to cut back
lower cowl any more? It's currently parallel to firewall at bottom cut edge.
Thanks
https://www.dropbox.com/m/browse?path=%2FExhaust
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431935#431935
Message 2
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| Subject: | Re: Advice on red cube install |
On 10/15/2014 5:09 PM, Linn Walters wrote:
> On 10/15/2014 9:00 AM, Bill Watson wrote:
>> Bill "wondering why only 1 mag is firing after engine re-install" Watson
>
> There is only one thing that will prevent a mag from firing .... a
> grounded P-lead. Check the P-lead to make sure you didn't get it
> caught between things like the firewall/engine mount when you
> re-installed the engine.
> Linn
Well, actually I lied. After completing the SB and rehanging the
engine, the first time I tried a start I got nothing. It just cranked.
It wasn't immediately obvious but neither mag was firing!
This is embarrassing because I consider myself a careful and reasonably
meticulous amateur mechanic but I'll share it for reflective purposes.
Using a mirror and flashlight I examined the LH Mag which had not been
touched except to disconnect and reconnect the P-lead and the shower of
sparks line. It turned out that I had a lock washer jammed between the
P-lead terminal and the case of the Mag that was grounding the circuit.
After removing the washer and putting a fresh washer /under/ the
terminal nut, the engine started.
But a mag check indicated that the RH Mag wasn't firing! Unlike the LH
Mag, this Mag had been removed to facilitate removal/installation of the
tach pickup that is screwed into the side of it. So before the first
start, this Mag required pinning and timing which was all completed
without an apparent problem.
Again using a mirror and a flashlight I examined the RH Mag and
discovered that I had put the P-lead terminal underneath the insulating
washer instead of on top. Well that seems like it might short the Mag.
So with better lighting I rewire the upside down P-lead terminal and try
again. The RH Mag is still 'dead'.
I should add that every step in this troubleshooting process is followed
by much reflection, usually overnight, and study of every reference
document available. I have copies of magazine articles, Light Plane
Maintenance Newsletters, John Schwaner's Mag book, and printouts of
various posts. Tim's informative mark-up of Slick's timing instructions
remains the go-to reference guide for Mag timing. Thanks Tim!
I decide to just remove the P-lead from the Mag and let it run naked and
hot, then work forward from there. Well, that didn't work either. I
still had a 'dead' Mag. I should add the the engine started and ran
just fine with only the LH Mag working. Only a Mag check indicated that
I had a dead Mag.
I'm thinking, "Oh no, I may have over torqued the P-lead and ruined the
condenser or something else that is going to require parts or a
rebuild". But I decide to remove the Mag, take it to the bench, blanket
it with brain waves and then very carefully go back through the
installation procedure. I pin it, remove a set of plugs, position the
prop, install it with fresh gaskets and time it. This time I leave the
P-lead disconnected and run it naked and hot again. SUCCESS!
The good news is that it is now running perfectly and I got some
experience with running a hot mag through the checks. The bad news is
that I have absolutely no idea what I had done wrong initially.
Test flight scheduled for later today.
Linn, you are a gentleman for being so discreet in pointing out the
obvious but evidently I'm immune to the obvious. Thanks for giving me a
chance to reflect on my stumbles publicly.
Bill "finally released from SB jail" Watson
Message 3
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust clearances |
You shouldn't have to cut it back. The exhaust does come very close to the cowl
around the heat muffs and where it exits. I recommend a heat shield on the cowl
where the exhaust is close.
Jesse Saint
Saint Aviation, Inc.
352-427-0285
jesse@saintaviation.com
Sent from my iPad
> On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:06 AM, "rvdave" <rv610dave@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> Am installing Vetterman exhaust and wondering about clearances to cowling. Vans
plans show 5/8 min to firewall but don't see anything about cowl clearances.
From your experiences of tailpipe/heat/cowl relationship do I need to cut
back lower cowl any more? It's currently parallel to firewall at bottom cut edge.
> Thanks
>
> https://www.dropbox.com/m/browse?path=%2FExhaust
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431935#431935
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
>
Message 4
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust clearances |
Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about
exit air, if that is adequate exit area?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946
Message 5
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust clearances |
Personally, my lower cowl in this area has never shown any signs of
excessive heat. Thus, not sure i would bother with shielding. The primer
i used did peel up a bit when i did a regular cleanup with simple green.
I think the exhaust gases sort of shoot straight out of the pipe and
never build up much heat in this area. My heat muff does have some burnt
oil on it but the cowl underneath has never shown any signs of heat either.
My cowl showed signs of heat more around the front 4 cyls 1,2,3,4.
Namely, the point where the 3 pipes converge into 1, and where the pipes
take a big bend. I think there is a 180deg bend in one of the pipes at
least. I plan to put a heat shield on the pipes, which i think looks
cleaner than foil shielding on the cowl itself.
My 2c worth.
Jae
On 10/16/2014 8:29 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about
exit air, if that is adequate exit area?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946
>
>
--
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
do not archive
Message 6
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust clearances |
If you don't have cold air induction and/or higher compression, you should be fine.
Don McDonald
________________________________
From: rvdave <rv610dave@gmail.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:29 AM
Subject: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances
Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about
exit air, if that is adequate exit area?
--------
Dave Ford
RV6 flying
RV10 building
Cadillac, MI
Read this topic online here:
http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946
Message 7
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| Subject: | Re: Exhaust clearances |
Just remember, just as a cars engine compartment is never as hot when running down
the road as it is when you stop, and shut the engine off.... the plane is
the same way. Just reach inside with a pencil and mark where the bottom cowl
gets close to the any of the exhaust headers, then install some 2,000 degree
race reflective tape.... the "better to be safe than sorry" expression applies
here.
Even though I have cold air induction and higher compression, so parts of the bottom
cowl are different, you should still end up with temp tape looking something
like the attached pic.
Don McDonald
BTW. replacing the remaining 2 cables (throttle and mixture).... Van's original cables lasted 5+ years and almost 700 hours.... replaced with cables from California Push Pull in Chico Calif.... nice guys, and they're supposed to handle the heat a little better. http://www.push-pull.com/
________________________________
From: Jae Chang <jc-matronics_rv10@jline.com>
Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:53 AM
Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances
Personally, my lower cowl in this area has never shown any signs of
excessive heat. Thus, not sure i would bother with shielding. The primer
i used did peel up a bit when i did a regular cleanup with simple green.
I think the exhaust gases sort of shoot straight out of the pipe and
never build up much heat in this area. My heat muff does have some burnt
oil on it but the cowl underneath has never shown any signs of heat either.
My cowl showed signs of heat more around the front 4 cyls 1,2,3,4.
Namely, the point where the 3 pipes converge into 1, and where the pipes
take a big bend. I think there is a 180deg bend in one of the pipes at
least. I plan to put a heat shield on the pipes, which i think looks
cleaner than foil shielding on the cowl itself.
My 2c worth.
Jae
On 10/16/2014 8:29 AM, rvdave wrote:
>
> Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about
exit air, if that is adequate exit area?
>
> --------
> Dave Ford
> RV6 flying
> RV10 building
> Cadillac, MI
>
>
> Read this topic online here:
>
> http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946
>
>
--
#40533 RV-10
First flight 10/19/2011
Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011
do not archive
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