---------------------------------------------------------- RV10-List Digest Archive --- Total Messages Posted Thu 10/16/14: 7 ---------------------------------------------------------- Today's Message Index: ---------------------- 1. 05:07 AM - Exhaust clearances (rvdave) 2. 05:13 AM - Re: Advice on red cube install (Bill Watson) 3. 05:42 AM - Re: Exhaust clearances (Jesse Saint) 4. 08:30 AM - Re: Exhaust clearances (rvdave) 5. 08:53 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust clearances (Jae Chang) 6. 08:55 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust clearances (Don McDonald) 7. 09:25 AM - Re: Re: Exhaust clearances (Don McDonald) ________________________________ Message 1 _____________________________________ Time: 05:07:08 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Exhaust clearances From: "rvdave" Am installing Vetterman exhaust and wondering about clearances to cowling. Vans plans show 5/8 min to firewall but don't see anything about cowl clearances. From your experiences of tailpipe/heat/cowl relationship do I need to cut back lower cowl any more? It's currently parallel to firewall at bottom cut edge. Thanks https://www.dropbox.com/m/browse?path=%2FExhaust -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431935#431935 ________________________________ Message 2 _____________________________________ Time: 05:13:27 AM PST US From: Bill Watson Subject: Re: RV10-List: Advice on red cube install On 10/15/2014 5:09 PM, Linn Walters wrote: > On 10/15/2014 9:00 AM, Bill Watson wrote: >> Bill "wondering why only 1 mag is firing after engine re-install" Watson > > There is only one thing that will prevent a mag from firing .... a > grounded P-lead. Check the P-lead to make sure you didn't get it > caught between things like the firewall/engine mount when you > re-installed the engine. > Linn Well, actually I lied. After completing the SB and rehanging the engine, the first time I tried a start I got nothing. It just cranked. It wasn't immediately obvious but neither mag was firing! This is embarrassing because I consider myself a careful and reasonably meticulous amateur mechanic but I'll share it for reflective purposes. Using a mirror and flashlight I examined the LH Mag which had not been touched except to disconnect and reconnect the P-lead and the shower of sparks line. It turned out that I had a lock washer jammed between the P-lead terminal and the case of the Mag that was grounding the circuit. After removing the washer and putting a fresh washer /under/ the terminal nut, the engine started. But a mag check indicated that the RH Mag wasn't firing! Unlike the LH Mag, this Mag had been removed to facilitate removal/installation of the tach pickup that is screwed into the side of it. So before the first start, this Mag required pinning and timing which was all completed without an apparent problem. Again using a mirror and a flashlight I examined the RH Mag and discovered that I had put the P-lead terminal underneath the insulating washer instead of on top. Well that seems like it might short the Mag. So with better lighting I rewire the upside down P-lead terminal and try again. The RH Mag is still 'dead'. I should add that every step in this troubleshooting process is followed by much reflection, usually overnight, and study of every reference document available. I have copies of magazine articles, Light Plane Maintenance Newsletters, John Schwaner's Mag book, and printouts of various posts. Tim's informative mark-up of Slick's timing instructions remains the go-to reference guide for Mag timing. Thanks Tim! I decide to just remove the P-lead from the Mag and let it run naked and hot, then work forward from there. Well, that didn't work either. I still had a 'dead' Mag. I should add the the engine started and ran just fine with only the LH Mag working. Only a Mag check indicated that I had a dead Mag. I'm thinking, "Oh no, I may have over torqued the P-lead and ruined the condenser or something else that is going to require parts or a rebuild". But I decide to remove the Mag, take it to the bench, blanket it with brain waves and then very carefully go back through the installation procedure. I pin it, remove a set of plugs, position the prop, install it with fresh gaskets and time it. This time I leave the P-lead disconnected and run it naked and hot again. SUCCESS! The good news is that it is now running perfectly and I got some experience with running a hot mag through the checks. The bad news is that I have absolutely no idea what I had done wrong initially. Test flight scheduled for later today. Linn, you are a gentleman for being so discreet in pointing out the obvious but evidently I'm immune to the obvious. Thanks for giving me a chance to reflect on my stumbles publicly. Bill "finally released from SB jail" Watson ________________________________ Message 3 _____________________________________ Time: 05:42:27 AM PST US From: Jesse Saint Subject: Re: RV10-List: Exhaust clearances You shouldn't have to cut it back. The exhaust does come very close to the cowl around the heat muffs and where it exits. I recommend a heat shield on the cowl where the exhaust is close. Jesse Saint Saint Aviation, Inc. 352-427-0285 jesse@saintaviation.com Sent from my iPad > On Oct 16, 2014, at 6:06 AM, "rvdave" wrote: > > > Am installing Vetterman exhaust and wondering about clearances to cowling. Vans plans show 5/8 min to firewall but don't see anything about cowl clearances. From your experiences of tailpipe/heat/cowl relationship do I need to cut back lower cowl any more? It's currently parallel to firewall at bottom cut edge. > Thanks > > https://www.dropbox.com/m/browse?path=%2FExhaust > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431935#431935 > > > > > > > > > > ________________________________ Message 4 _____________________________________ Time: 08:30:08 AM PST US Subject: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances From: "rvdave" Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about exit air, if that is adequate exit area? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946 ________________________________ Message 5 _____________________________________ Time: 08:53:49 AM PST US From: Jae Chang Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances Personally, my lower cowl in this area has never shown any signs of excessive heat. Thus, not sure i would bother with shielding. The primer i used did peel up a bit when i did a regular cleanup with simple green. I think the exhaust gases sort of shoot straight out of the pipe and never build up much heat in this area. My heat muff does have some burnt oil on it but the cowl underneath has never shown any signs of heat either. My cowl showed signs of heat more around the front 4 cyls 1,2,3,4. Namely, the point where the 3 pipes converge into 1, and where the pipes take a big bend. I think there is a 180deg bend in one of the pipes at least. I plan to put a heat shield on the pipes, which i think looks cleaner than foil shielding on the cowl itself. My 2c worth. Jae On 10/16/2014 8:29 AM, rvdave wrote: > > Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about exit air, if that is adequate exit area? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946 > > -- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 do not archive ________________________________ Message 6 _____________________________________ Time: 08:55:09 AM PST US From: Don McDonald Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances If you don't have cold air induction and/or higher compression, you should be fine. Don McDonald ________________________________ From: rvdave Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:29 AM Subject: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about exit air, if that is adequate exit area? -------- Dave Ford RV6 flying RV10 building Cadillac, MI Read this topic online here: http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946 ________________________________ Message 7 _____________________________________ Time: 09:25:25 AM PST US From: Don McDonald Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances Just remember, just as a cars engine compartment is never as hot when running down the road as it is when you stop, and shut the engine off.... the plane is the same way. Just reach inside with a pencil and mark where the bottom cowl gets close to the any of the exhaust headers, then install some 2,000 degree race reflective tape.... the "better to be safe than sorry" expression applies here. Even though I have cold air induction and higher compression, so parts of the bottom cowl are different, you should still end up with temp tape looking something like the attached pic. Don McDonald BTW. replacing the remaining 2 cables (throttle and mixture).... Van's original cables lasted 5+ years and almost 700 hours.... replaced with cables from California Push Pull in Chico Calif.... nice guys, and they're supposed to handle the heat a little better. http://www.push-pull.com/ ________________________________ From: Jae Chang Sent: Thursday, October 16, 2014 10:53 AM Subject: Re: RV10-List: Re: Exhaust clearances Personally, my lower cowl in this area has never shown any signs of excessive heat. Thus, not sure i would bother with shielding. The primer i used did peel up a bit when i did a regular cleanup with simple green. I think the exhaust gases sort of shoot straight out of the pipe and never build up much heat in this area. My heat muff does have some burnt oil on it but the cowl underneath has never shown any signs of heat either. My cowl showed signs of heat more around the front 4 cyls 1,2,3,4. Namely, the point where the 3 pipes converge into 1, and where the pipes take a big bend. I think there is a 180deg bend in one of the pipes at least. I plan to put a heat shield on the pipes, which i think looks cleaner than foil shielding on the cowl itself. My 2c worth. Jae On 10/16/2014 8:29 AM, rvdave wrote: > > Great, I can use the stick on foil for shielding. Got me thinking though about exit air, if that is adequate exit area? > > -------- > Dave Ford > RV6 flying > RV10 building > Cadillac, MI > > > Read this topic online here: > > http://forums.matronics.com/viewtopic.php?p=431946#431946 > > -- #40533 RV-10 First flight 10/19/2011 Phase 1 Done 11/26/2011 do not archive ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Other Matronics Email List Services ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- Post A New Message rv10-list@matronics.com UN/SUBSCRIBE http://www.matronics.com/subscription List FAQ http://www.matronics.com/FAQ/RV10-List.htm Web Forum Interface To Lists http://forums.matronics.com Matronics List Wiki http://wiki.matronics.com Full Archive Search Engine http://www.matronics.com/search 7-Day List Browse http://www.matronics.com/browse/rv10-list Browse Digests http://www.matronics.com/digest/rv10-list Browse Other Lists http://www.matronics.com/browse Live Online Chat! http://www.matronics.com/chat Archive Downloading http://www.matronics.com/archives Photo Share http://www.matronics.com/photoshare Other Email Lists http://www.matronics.com/emaillists Contributions http://www.matronics.com/contribution ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------- These Email List Services are sponsored solely by Matronics and through the generous Contributions of its members.